KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 125 to 300 => Xciting 250 => Topic started by: NewKymcoRider on April 18, 2022, 04:45:28 AM
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I bought my Kimko today. After 3 hours the engine could not start. I took off the spark plug and found we had no spark! What’s the problem?!? Thanks!
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I bought my Kimko today. After 3 hours the engine could not start. I took off the spark plug and found we had no spark! What’s the problem?!? Thanks!
What have you checked so far?
To add to what has been said, how did you find there was no spark?
Have you read any of the "it won't start" posts on this or any forum?
Answer these, Iowahawks and any other questions and we will find a solution together!
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You had it running for 3 hours, but now it won't start?
Or, you have tried starting it for 3 hours and it still won't start?
Stig
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You had it running for 3 hours, but now it won't start?
Or, you have tried starting it for 3 hours and it still won't start?
Stig
both, the bike came running, after 3 hours it could not start!
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no one can tell you exactly what's wrong without first asking you questions and then getting detailed answers from you!
How many miles or km on your scoot? Overall condition?
You said you just bought it and 3 hours later it wouldn't start....did you ride it for 3 hours and then it wouldn't restart? Did you buy it, ride it home, turn it off and couldn't restart it? You need to be specific.
do you have gas in it? is your battery fully charged and in good condition? Is your kill switch on? Side stand up?
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no one can tell you exactly what's wrong without first asking you questions and then getting detailed answers from you!
How many miles or km on your scoot? Overall condition?
You said you just bought it and 3 hours later it wouldn't start....did you ride it for 3 hours and then it wouldn't restart? Did you buy it, ride it home, turn it off and couldn't restart it? You need to be specific.
do you have gas in it? is your battery fully charged and in good condition? Is your kill switch on? Side stand up?
I bought a new spark plug, again no spark
Kymco has 3200miles
yesterday the scooter started the engine and drove, after a 3 hour break, the engine did not start
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What have you checked so far?
To add to what has been said, how did you find there was no spark?
I took it out Spark plug, and tried to start the engine
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What have you checked so far?
To add to what has been said, how did you find there was no spark?
I took it out Spark plug, and tried to start the engine
That is most of the procedure. Your method of grounding the plug for this test will let us know what your skills are so we may better help you find a solution.
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That is most of the procedure. Your method of grounding the plug for this test will let us know what your skills are so we may better help you find a solution.
There is no spark, is there a way to make any diagnosis? OBD input?
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There is no spark, is there a way to make any diagnosis? OBD input?
I am trying to make a diagnosis. I cannot do that without information. The way this works is I ask specific questions and I need you to answer them, specifically. For instance, you stated about three different ways you bought, rode, 3 hours, no start. Then you said there is no spark, you removed the plug and there is no spark. I nor anyone else at this point know exactly what you have done.
My question "how did you ground the spark plug" was ignored/unanswered. The normal procedure is:
1. Disconnect spark plug wire
2. Remove spark plug
3. Reconnect spark plug wire
4. Ground spark plug metal shell somewhere convenient on engine
5. Spin engine with starter or kick starter and see if a spark can be seen at the spark plug electrodes.
That describes in painful detail ALL the factors to determine whether you have any spark.
There are other things that were asked by others you have failed to respond. The most common that WE ALL have done sooner or later is the run/stop switch. The other is on some models a side stand switch that will prevent spark. There are several other factors I will not mention now because we are TRYING to find or eliminate the simple stuff first.
The next move is yours.
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I am trying to make a diagnosis. I cannot do that without information. The way this works is I ask specific questions and I need you to answer them, specifically. For instance, you stated about three different ways you bought, rode, 3 hours, no start. Then you said there is no spark, you removed the plug and there is no spark. I nor anyone else at this point know exactly what you have done.
My question "how did you ground the spark plug" was ignored/unanswered. The normal procedure is:
1. Disconnect spark plug wire
2. Remove spark plug
3. Reconnect spark plug wire
4. Ground spark plug metal shell somewhere convenient on engine
5. Spin engine with starter or kick starter and see if a spark can be seen at the spark plug electrodes.
That describes in painful detail ALL the factors to determine whether you have any spark.
That's exactly what I did, everything as you wrote!
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Okay. That's good. What is the status of the run/stop switch?
What is the status of the sidestand switch?
Do you have a multimeter?
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Okay. That's good. What is the status of the run/stop switch?
What is the status of the sidestand switch?
Do you have a multimeter?
I don’t have a multimeter!
When the side stand is lowered, the fuel pump is not heard to supply gasoline. When retracted, the pump is heard to apply pressure.
Run/stop switch I haven't tried
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I don’t have a multimeter!
When the side stand is lowered, the fuel pump is not heard to supply gasoline. When retracted, the pump is heard to apply pressure.
Run/stop switch I haven't tried
Okay, good! Your description of side stand operation is perfect! That can be ruled out as a cause!
Run/stop switches are a common cause of no spark. They can get corroded and break contact. USUALLY, you can cycle them several times and they will work again. They all are red, they all are on the right grip, run is the end toward you pushed down into the switch cluster, stop is the end away from you pushed into the switch cluster. It is a rocker switch so another way to describe it is run rocks toward you and stop rocks away!
Don't worry about the multimeter right now but you may want to cruise the nearest Harbor Freight or Walmart to check out their meters. You can start with a real cheapo and do just fine and worry about a better one later. You always will need two or more!
Okay, tell us what you find with the run/stop!
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Okay, good! Your description of side stand operation is perfect! That can be ruled out as a cause!
Run/stop switches are a common cause of no spark. They can get corroded and break contact. USUALLY, you can cycle them several times and they will work again. They all are red, they all are on the right grip, run is the end toward you pushed down into the switch cluster, stop is the end away from you pushed into the switch cluster. It is a rocker switch so another way to describe it is run rocks toward you and stop rocks away!
Don't worry about the multimeter right now but you may want to cruise the nearest Harbor Freight or Walmart to check out their meters. You can start with a real cheapo and do just fine and worry about a better one later. You always will need two or more!
Okay, tell us what you find with the run/stop!
Now I saw that Run/off switch also stops the petrol pump, ie does not affect the spark of spark plug!
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Now I saw that Run/off switch also stops the petrol pump, ie does not affect the spark of spark plug!
If it stops the fuel pump it will stop the spark because the ECU is the source of the spark and it will be turned off also.
How do you "know" it does not affect the spark if the spark is not working?
The test sequence should be like this:
1. Run/stop switch cycled several times and left in the RUN position.
2. Spark plug out of head, laying on engine so spark may be observed.
3. Key on, start button pushed, engine spinning, sparking SHOULD be observed.
Spark observed: problem solved.
No spark: problem remains, but run/stop switch is tentively eliminated as cause. Now, you need that multi-meter!
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If it stops the fuel pump it will stop the spark because the ECU is the source of the spark and it will be turned off also.
How do you "know" it does not affect the spark if the spark is not working?
The test sequence should be like this:
1. Run/stop switch cycled several times and left in the RUN position.
2. Spark plug out of head, laying on engine so spark may be observed.
3. Key on, start button pushed, engine spinning, sparking SHOULD be observed.
Spark observed: problem solved.
No spark: problem remains, but run/stop switch is tentively eliminated as cause. Now, you need that multi-meter!
everything is done on your list,no spark! what should i do with Multimeter?
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everything is done on your list,no spark! what should i do with Multimeter?
The multi meter will be to test various components to verify if good or not. Also get a small tube of "silicone dielectric grease." You will need to aquire some simple tools to gain access to some of the components.
Recommended tools will be:
#2 Philips screw driver
1/4" drive ratchet handle
6" 1/4" drive extension
1/4" drive sockets 7, 8, 10 & 12 mm
Same size combination wrenches
6" adjustable wrench
These tools will disassemble almost all of any metric bike regardless of brand! Bigger tools would be necessary for other things like CVT transmission, changing tires, etc.
While you are waiting for your meter to arrive from Amazon if no Harbor Freight nearby, remove the seat and the tub underneath and the front cover including the headlight. This will give you access to nealy everything you will need to examine.
Body panels are held in place by self-threading and sheet metal screws and snap-in tabs into slots. The self-threading screws have a blunt end to the theads and a groove up one side forming a cutting edge. Sheet metal types have a sharp point.
The tabs and slots will drive you crazy trying to figure where they are! Temperature should be 70°F and up to pop these open. You may want to get a spatula or 1" paint scraper to pry these panels apart.
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Have you checked any of the fuses yet?