KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 125 to 300 => LIKE 200i => Topic started by: bxc on March 16, 2022, 02:14:15 AM
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Hi folks - you might recall that in the past I posted about my wife's 2012 Like 200i seeming to "choke" when dethrottling. I finally saw an error code on the bike today - 6 blinks - which indicates it's the throttle body sensor.
Stig and Kymco hive mind: I saw that you posted about this in the past. Do you know what part number I should order, and is there a video I can watch to install a new throttle body sensor?
Thanks so much in advance.
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Just realized I made a typo - the error code is five blinks and the chart says throttle position sensor movement speed problem.
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TPS cannot be purchased separately from the throttle body...as far as I know. When my throttle position sensor went south, Kymco replaced the throttle body assembly under my 2 yr warranty. @$220.
Used on eBay are as muc
You can see the assembly on an exploded parts diagram.
Stig
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So far - a failing throttle position sensor has shown itself by the engine stumbling hard, or moderately hard, when held at a constant speed.
When mine did it (and it didn't do it 100% of the time) - it was at around 28>30MPH. It felt like someone was turning the key off and on...really banging the engine off and on!
I guess stumbling on decell could be caused by the TPS....but I haven't seen that reported here.
These $3K Kymcos have a pretty good engine management system - but they aren't NASA quality. My LIKE200i throws codes every so often - usually temp sensor - but since it keeps running like a swiss sewing machine - for 9 years - I ignore blinking lights.
But - if it hiccups - I fix it ASAP before riding again.
Here's your part.....
https://solanocycle.dealerspikeparts.com/oemparts/a/kym/5b50e9ae87a866110c2e098c/carburetor
Stig
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Thanks for the part number, Stig. The previous owner said the bike had a tipover after it was backed by a neighbor in a shared garage. I now think she was lying and that the bike was in an accident. It's a shame, but hopefully this fixes the problem.
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Thanks for the part number, Stig. The previous owner said the bike had a tipover after it was backed by a neighbor in a shared garage. I now think she was lying and that the bike was in an accident. It's a shame, but hopefully this fixes the problem.
bcx,
That part is a serious investment....
Please elaborate on your issue....
It stalls...stumbles when rolling off of the throttle at low speeds ..only..... or when rolling off of the throttle at all speeds?
You've ridden scooters before, yes?.... and you're familiar with the behavior of the CVT transmission as the clutch disengages as you come to a stop, yes?
But you're saying this is something different?
Stig
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It's difficult to describe. Often times when I dethrottle the bike feels like it's choking. However sometimes it does this when I throttle at a lower speed, like going 5 mph at a gas station. I've seen some people use the word "hesitate" and that would describe this behavior. The Kymco does great at full throttle, like going 45mph up a hill.
I've ridden scooters for years and none behaved like this. I also currently ride a Triumph motorcycle and it's quite smooth all around in comparison.
I'm certain that something is wrong with the Kymco - I just didn't know what, and the error code seems to suggest this might be the issue.
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Ok. Don't mean to question your scooter riding credentials.....just never know if we've got a first-time rider here.
...and, even though it's not my $ , I hope a new throttle body is the correct call.
Cyclepedia.com accepts service questions from members. A tech will give you a service chit ..and explore your issue with you. Cyclepedia wrote the Kymco manuals for KYMCO/USA.
Stig
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I'm not offended at all! Ordered the part and will report back after the installation.
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Sorry if I double posted - I tried to post this comment in the fuel pump thread but it's not showing up for some reason.
Stig - I decided not to order the throttle body assembly since you seemed skeptical (and I eventually felt that way, too). I decided to try replacing the fuel pump instead. I have successfully removed the old fuel pump. My question: When you installed the new pump, did you have to solder the negative and positive wires? I just wanted to check before I proceed. Thanks.
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Sorry if I double posted - I tried to post this comment in the fuel pump thread but it's not showing up for some reason.
Stig - I decided not to order the throttle body assembly since you seemed skeptical (and I eventually felt that way, too). I decided to try replacing the fuel pump instead. I have successfully removed the old fuel pump. My question: When you installed the new pump, did you have to solder the negative and positive wires? I just wanted to check before I proceed. Thanks.
No, I don't own a soldering iron, or gun.
They were tight spade connectors.
Stig
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@Stig how exactly did you disconnect the wires from the old pump without desoldering? Did you simply cut the wires?
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@Stig how exactly did you disconnect the wires from the old pump without desoldering? Did you simply cut the wires?
Perhaps you can see from my original photos of my pump - wires to pump were pressed on spade connectors....no solder was used by Kymco at that time, nor by me in my rebuild.
If there is some solder on your wire connections to the pump - you could heat and remove them PROBABLY NOT A GOOD IDEA IF FUEL REMAINS IN THE PUMP TO GO NEAR IT WITH HEAT!....or unscrew the other end of the 2 wires and then rebuild and copy the original connections with wire & a couple of bits from hardware store.
I'm losing the thread here - you are replacing the pump because you are not satisfied with the spray pattern or strength from the injector when cranking the scooter and spraying into a can?
Stig
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Update: I successfully replaced the fuel pump with the aftermarket model recommended by Stig. Unfortunately the problem with the scooter remains: it has a rough idle, sometimes it sputters when coming to a stop. My wife said the scooter lost all power at a stoplight and had to be turned back on. I checked the valves and the spark plug connection - all looks normal. I also cleaned the fuel injector. I'm stumped. Is there a way to adjust the idle?
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Update: I successfully replaced the fuel pump with the aftermarket model recommended by Stig. Unfortunately the problem with the scooter remains: it has a rough idle, sometimes it sputters when coming to a stop. My wife said the scooter lost all power at a stoplight and had to be turned back on. I checked the valves and the spark plug connection - all looks normal. I also cleaned the fuel injector. I'm stumped. Is there a way to adjust the idle?
No. not with EFI.
I recommend you obtain a cyclepedia manual - which entitles you to interactions with a tech. You'll describe your issues, what you've done so far, etc.
You will be given specific readings to take with your multi-meter on the electrical and fueling system of your scooter. No more guess-work and no more parts buying. You're not the first to throw parts at a problem - without success.
Stig
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I spoke too soon - my wife rode it for longer yesterday and said the rough idle and sputtering are gone. It seems tightening the spark plug did the trick. Previously I had used a torque wrench to tighten it to the specified torque, but this time I just did a half turn with a normal socket wrench. This must have created a more snug connection. I'm surprised that the scooter worked at all with a loose spark plug, but I'm just glad I finally fixed the problem! Thanks for all your help.
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Good for you both!
Glad your scooter is running well for you!
It does not matter one iota that the 'fix', as described, makes absolutely no sense🙃
I will needlessly speculate that the 'fix' is related to you snapping the sparkplug lead back on tightly this time?
Well done, nevertheless!
Stig
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I was reading this thread and I related to your hesitation issue/ occasional stalling and I have a little bit of scooter knowledge that helped me build my hypothesis and hopefully solution. The bike I purchased recently had been layed down reasonably hard and I have done some work to it. I got it running only after I put a new cylinder and sleeve in it because there was very little compression. Come to find out once its running it is having the same behavior as yours. Now I took the CVT case apart because it was the only thing I hadn't touched yet on this bike and lo and behold, the belt is showing signs of age and there is belt dust everywhere in that case. I have a longer overdrive belt on order now which I expect will solve the slow in the transmission on the low end and stretch out the top end. My scooter has 12k miles on it and I don't see any sign of belt maintenance before me, the cover gasket was still all there and in one piece.
Reasons for the driving behavior being the belt are as follows. The variator pulley is making zero contact with the belt due to it being too narrow, this doesn't move your clutch pulley smoothly but rather dumps a large load on the motor when the variator finally does open up a bit. Next, you have a lot of slack from a skinny belt that isn't accounted for which will ruin your top end as it can't ride up your variator effectively. Stalling or lugging while slowing down is also from the belt slack I believe because it is possible to overrun the transmission especially while going downhill and the motor isn't rotating as fast as the belt might be with the slack in the system and when it does grab eventually it is engine braking the whole scoot randomly. Hope this insight points you in a useful direction! Check the CVT if not for maintenance, then for upgrades! My goal is 80mph and 80mpg out of this thing!
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I was reading this thread and I related to your hesitation issue/ occasional stalling and I have a little bit of scooter knowledge that helped me build my hypothesis and hopefully solution. The bike I purchased recently had been layed down reasonably hard and I have done some work to it. I got it running only after I put a new cylinder and sleeve in it because there was very little compression. Come to find out once its running it is having the same behavior as yours. Now I took the CVT case apart because it was the only thing I hadn't touched yet on this bike and lo and behold, the belt is showing signs of age and there is belt dust everywhere in that case. I have a longer overdrive belt on order now which I expect will solve the slow in the transmission on the low end and stretch out the top end. My scooter has 12k miles on it and I don't see any sign of belt maintenance before me, the cover gasket was still all there and in one piece.
Reasons for the driving behavior being the belt are as follows. The variator pulley is making zero contact with the belt due to it being too narrow, this doesn't move your clutch pulley smoothly but rather dumps a large load on the motor when the variator finally does open up a bit. Next, you have a lot of slack from a skinny belt that isn't accounted for which will ruin your top end as it can't ride up your variator effectively. Stalling or lugging while slowing down is also from the belt slack I believe because it is possible to overrun the transmission especially while going downhill and the motor isn't rotating as fast as the belt might be with the slack in the system and when it does grab eventually it is engine braking the whole scoot randomly. Hope this insight points you in a useful direction! Check the CVT if not for maintenance, then for upgrades! My goal is 80mph and 80mpg out of this thing!
Welcome to the forum!
Perhaps you missed that he solved his scooters 'hesitation " by tightening his spark plug?
You are going to use a belt longer than stock?
Stig
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Welcome here!
Would love to see this thingy to run with a longer belt.
Pls give us a feedback!