I have heard of people using sockets for a socket wrench to punch out old bearings . Just find one with the right diameter and a hammer ....
At first, the first blurry pic makes it look like the bearing is not centered but I guess that's just due to the rubber seal being worn on one side?
Only thing that jumps out at me then is those weird radial lines on your disc/rotor. They are obviously some kind of wear pattern but I have no experience diagnosing those.
Guys, what would cause those? Are they normal?
And, oh yeah, I do see that off center look on the other side too. That side seems to be a "sealed" bearing which you wouldn't be able to grease anyway.
Rhiaaa,
I don't remember what scoot you have...
I looked around and found this page that has some good "free" information. http://www.dansmc.com/wheelbearing.htm (http://www.dansmc.com/wheelbearing.htm)
I looked in the service guide for my P250 and , while it doesn't say it in as many words to pound out the bearings ...It says "BEARING REPLACEMENT Remove the front wheel bearings and distance collar." and the photo shows a drift (a tapered shaft used to drive items) and a small sledge or mallet. The distance collar is small shaft between the bearing to keep the two bearing the correct distance apart from each other.
Dan's MC page above also shows the bearing tool being used, a sockect being used instead and third alternative that requires less brute force but requires a threaded shaft, a couple bolts and some washers (all cheap at HomeDepot/Lowes or sometimes be salvaged from an old lamp)
Here is the bearing puller http://www.dansmc.com/wheel_bearing_tool2.jpg (http://www.dansmc.com/wheel_bearing_tool2.jpg)
..i find myself looking at that more and more....Thank you, wordslinger! I don't know why they replaced the original bearings so soon on this scoot really. (@ 500 km??) They could be fine since they are most likely fairly new...being they are not the original ones. If I could get them out I would probably replace them...but...I also am starting to see some wisdom in what you said earlier about replacing one thing at a time then checking for the same symptoms. I don't know if the rotor is the original one or not. I'll definitely replace the rotor, though. I just know that it will make me crazy if I put a new rotor on and then find that it is still not right and I still can't ride it.
..none of my scoots show that wear pattern whatsoever...
..i reckon a loose wheel could also have caused that pattern, and i'm also wondering about the seemingly off-center seal of your bearings...
..imma venture a guess here, that somebody has worked on that front-end...replaced the bearings, because they DONT look like OEM...and it's very easy to "smear" the sealing material that protects the bearing during installation...
..yeah that much is probably ok ...
..if they didn't properly seat either the wheel fasteners, or the caliper fasteners, i'd suspect that the disc could be subjected to wear in the way it has...
..think of a high pitch wobble, especially when braking...
Okay, my bearings said:
TPI 6201LU 332 <-- This is the maker and the bearing number --looks good to me! correct types of seals, different makers have different letters but they are not ZZ or anything like that.
And the seal was more difficult to read, even with a magnifying glass, but it looked like:
KCY 20 32 5 5.7 <<-- not sure what this is.. dimensions maybe 32 is the outside diameter
C2703 KOK3 <<--- sound like a date code , shift C , 27th week of 2003 at plant KOK3 or machine KOK3
That mean anything? :D
I'd better go further and say if the disc is either stainless steel or coated it may not be able to be turned/trued -- only replaced. Yeah, look into the caliper and it's mounts too. Lot of times the lubricant that lets it slide freely drys up and causes problems galore.I just looked back a few pages to find this post. Where exactly is this lubricant or grease supposed to be? I ask because I see nothing. I pulled the brake pins completely out and they are dry as can be. The two cylinder well thingies are dry and look shiny like new. I see a spot of rust on the spring thing (not sure what it's called) down under where the pads sit, but I am not seeing any lubricant or grease or signs of any. :-\
Rianna... you up and running yet?
You might invest $2 in some "blue locktite" for those fork and axle bolts so they don't come loose again. You can get it at Wal-Mart or any auto parts store.
When I push the brake lever 3 times one of the pistons has already moved about halfway out, but the other piston has barely budged from it's spot. I remember that one on the right was more difficult to push back in. Should they move evenly?