KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 125 to 300 => Agility 125 => Topic started by: daniel on June 30, 2021, 08:46:28 AM
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Hi All is there any one that have euro 5 agility that is stopping ??? wait 10 min then starts ?
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Hi Daniel, can you explain a little more about your problem? It sounds like your scooter will stop running and you'll need to wait 10 minutes before it will restart? What year is your scooter and how many miles? Is it still under warranty?
the more detail you can give the better answers you will get.
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Hi all,
I appear to be suffering from the same issue as Daniel on my 2 year old Agility R16+.
In all it has happened to me 3 times. The motor just dies whilst running and no amount of starting manages to turn it on. I then wait about 5 minutes and then the motor starts as if nothing happened. The only things I can add are that it does not appear to be battery dependent since the third occurrence happened after a new battery was installed about a month ago. Also all 3 incidences happened whilst slowing down as I was approaching a roundabout.
Despite the fact that this rarely happens I am now quite worried about this problem since the last stoppage occurred whilst on the fast lane which could have been very dangerous with cars speeding past.
I would be grateful for some help on this.
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Stoppage while riding in fast traffic?
You have good reason for concern!
Is a visit to your scooter shop for a proper fix out of the question?
Kymcos have a 2yr warranty.
Stig
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I vote "Stall of Shame."
Fuel tank vent valve sticks shut. Wait 10 minutes and it starts up.
Prove this next time it quits by quickly opening the gas cap. Should start more quickly.
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@Stig,
Yes my bike is still covered by warranty. I have a scheduled visit at the scooter shop next Friday 8th. My worry is that since this is such a rarely occurring fault, I may be told it has been resolved even if nothing gets done. I won't be in a position to verify this. I do appreciate that when a fault rarely occurs it is a lot harder to trace.
@crossbolt,
Interesting suggestion. I will try it out next time it happens.
Thanks
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@Stig,
Yes my bike is still covered by warranty. I have a scheduled visit at the scooter shop next Friday 8th. My worry is that since this is such a rarely occurring fault, I may be told it has been resolved even if nothing gets done. I won't be in a position to verify this. I do appreciate that when a fault rarely occurs it is a lot harder to trace.
@crossbolt,
Interesting suggestion. I will try it out next time it happens.
Thanks
Nothing in any service manuals about this stall possibility. So it would be very rare that any dealer tech anywhere would even try this. It will start immediately on EFI if this is the cause. Will take longer if carburetor. The fuel cutoff valve is also a suspect if one is used.
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@Stig,
Yes my bike is still covered by warranty. I have a scheduled visit at the scooter shop next Friday 8th. My worry is that since this is such a rarely occurring fault, I may be told it has been resolved even if nothing gets done. I won't be in a position to verify this. I do appreciate that when a fault rarely occurs it is a lot harder to trace.
@crossbolt,
Interesting suggestion. I will try it out next time it happens.
Thanks
Sadly - the best thing to do is leave it at the dealer and ask them to test ride it as often as possible until they experience the issue which you've experienced! Many of us have had to do this.....happened to me years ago with my LIKE200i.
Good luck!
Stig
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If it's not fuel-injected, it will be either over-heating or fuel-starvation, both of which are easy to diagnose and fix.
If it's a fuel-injected machine, it should show up on e-diagnostics. Therefore you'd have to take it to a repair shop that can access the specific diagnostic application. Since diagnostics are rented from the manufacturer, not all repair shops will have the correct diagnostics and the technician will be guessing.
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Looked this one up again: it is EFI so no vacuum operated fuel cut-off valve.
There should be a code flashing of the check engine light IF it is a malfunction of the computer.
There will be no code if it is the fuel vent valve sticking.
I bought my own Kymco analyzer tool and it is of marginal value for an owner but is mandatory for dealer repair. Most dealers don't bother getting one.
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I bought my own Kymco analyzer tool and it is of marginal value for an owner
There's two sides to this. A simple intake air leak is ride-able on a carburetor machine because nothing much happens. But the same intake air leak in a FI machine causes chaos. The FI will be going crazy trying to adjust the mixture. The engine will be snapping & surging erratically. There's maybe 1000 variables that affect the FI nozzle's output. It's almost impossible to diagnose without the e-tools. The carb machine can be diagnosed and fixed in an hour, but the FI machine may take days without working diagnostics.
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Updates? daniel? xuraax?
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Updates? daniel? xuraax?
No useful updates, I am afraid.
As predicted the Kymco dealer reported everything to be ok but all he did was change the plug.
Since then the problem occurred twice but the suggested solution of opening up the cap did not resolve the issue. Bike started again after the usual 2 or 3 minutes.
In the meanwhile I have been experimenting with reading the OBD2 commands for this bike and I noted that the ECU issues the status of the EVAP purge valve which to me implies that this bike has an EVAP system.
This does not necessarily mean that it is the culprit but I would like to investigate this system if for no other purpose but just to eliminate it as the root cause.
Can anyone shed some light on where the EVAP is installed?
Regards
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@xuraax, since your dealer is obviousely not able to find this cause...
-Check the cables which lead to your CO-sensor in your mufflers pipe.
-all four cables intact?
-if YES, just unscrew this sensor (?17mm spanner)
take it out and start
-your diag tool should show a failure code
-back in again and delete code
This repeat (metin box out) with all electric/ electronic connectors you can find in there, to exclude one by one.
Ignition coil, sparkplug cap(renew) and sparkplug cable are suspects, so check them too.
Black or green fat minus/ground cable from your battery to a connector close to your starter motor, see if its loose.
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No useful updates, I am afraid.
As predicted the Kymco dealer reported everything to be ok but all he did was change the plug.
Since then the problem occurred twice but the suggested solution of opening up the cap did not resolve the issue. Bike started again after the usual 2 or 3 minutes.
In the meanwhile I have been experimenting with reading the OBD2 commands for this bike and I noted that the ECU issues the status of the EVAP purge valve which to me implies that this bike has an EVAP system.
This does not necessarily mean that it is the culprit but I would like to investigate this system if for no other purpose but just to eliminate it as the root cause.
Can anyone shed some light on where the EVAP is installed?
Regards
I'd take it back to the dealer, explain that it is still happening - and ask them to keep it until they experience the issues you are experiencing.
I had to do this once with my Kymco dealer.
Stig
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I'd take it back to the dealer, explain that it is still happening - and ask them to keep it until they experience the issues you are experiencing.
I had to do this once with my Kymco dealer.
Stig
@Stig,
It is not as simple as that. Don't forget this issue rears its head very rarely. In the past 4 months it only occurred twice and as before it clears itself in a couple of minutes. Because of this just leaving it the dealer did not solve it because, first of all it hard to diagnose a fault if it is not active, and also it is too easy for him to just say he fixed it even if he does nothing, since it takes months to reappear.
@Ruffus,
I will check the wiring but I am not sure if this will lead to anything since it is such a rare fault which clears itself almost immediately. For me this fault appears to be either time or temperature related but what and where?
Regards
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@xuraax, that's why I suggested to do all this "cable testing".
Read rare cases of simply faulty isolation on sparkplug cables and other parts of your harness.
Had an ignition cable with a tiny hole in it, through which it fired towards frame when warmed up, causing similar symptoms like yours.
Changed coil, cable and sparkplug cap, spook gone.
Have to say, was on a non EFI motor.
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@xuraax, that's why I suggested to do all this "cable testing".
@Ruffus: ok. I will certainly look into that.