KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 125 to 300 => Downtown 300 => Topic started by: CROSSBOLT on March 09, 2021, 05:33:14 PM
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This is an oldy , moldy topic! Have the nose off persuing another project (seat latch cables) and got curious about these lights with the silvery bulbs. I have spouted more than once these are purposely burned out to get the silvery look but they are not! They are amber bulbs! Single contact, bayonet 1156 type auto lamps that have intact filaments. Both wires go to ground so there is no way for them to work.
WAY! I think I'll hook 'em up to low beams.... too much trouble to hook them to signals.
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cool! Let's get these dummy lights lit!
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and you might as well throw us a few pictures along the way..
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and you might as well throw us a few pictures along the way..
Will do!
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Are these the turn indicators in all other markets? Take it the US has a rule on minimum distance apart or some such law which renders them unsuitable for your market?
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Are these the turn indicators in all other markets? Take it the US has a rule on minimum distance apart or some such law which renders them unsuitable for your market?
I am sure there is some US "requirement" that dictate the current location on the mirror stalks. But then considering the Like placement of the "pods" to satisfy makes no sense. Also considering the EXTRA operation to render these on the DT inoperable makes no sense. Government DRONES at work justifying their existence....
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yes, Neil, it has something to do with width of the signals but I'm having trouble finding the actual requirements. As you can see on my scoot the international clear lens indicators are closer together than the 'US spec' pod turn signals.
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Thanks Karl & Hawk for sating my curiosity, thought it'd be something like that.
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Here is what they look like wired in and powered up!
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looks great! I"m a big believer in the more light(s) the better! Looks like your mirror mounted signals are just slightly wider apart than the international indicators.
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where did you end up pulling the power from and how did you make your connections?
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where did you end up pulling the power from and how did you make your connections?
The amber light leads were both crimped to ground. I cut loose the non-green wire of each and hooked it to the low beam (upper headlights) hot wire. Right there in the harness that runs to the headlights!
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The amber light leads were both crimped to ground. I cut loose the non-green wire of each and hooked it to the low beam (upper headlights) hot wire. Right there in the harness that runs to the headlights!
That looks pretty cool, Karl!
ANY additional front lights are a good idea.
Glad you posted a simple way to do this - not that removing panels is a fun afternoon!
Stig
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Here is what they look like wired in and powered up!
Good job Karl! Anything on a scooter that makes us more visible can only be a good thing - and I speak as someone who has just made an emergency swerve across half the road to avoid a myopic mini driver who tried to take me out at a junction this morning! My language inside the helmet was choice.
Saved by my habitual defensive riding technique of moving to the centre of the road when passing road junctions.
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That looks pretty cool, Karl!
ANY additional front lights are a good idea.
Glad you posted a simple way to do this - not that removing panels is a fun afternoon!
Stig
Thank you! Gettin' pretty good at removing seat, tub and nose. Takes a real sequence!
Neil! Grateful your combat defenses were up and sharp! Yes, more light...may have to invest is a couple of LED replacements....
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Good job Karl! Anything on a scooter that makes us more visible can only be a good thing - and I speak as someone who has just made an emergency swerve across half the road to avoid a myopic mini driver who tried to take me out at a junction this morning! My language inside the helmet was choice.
Saved by my habitual defensive riding technique of moving to the centre of the road when passing road junctions.
+1
I always move near the center of the road when lots of cars parked at the curbs. The longer I'm visible to drivers waiting at side streets, the better. Plus, they are more visible to me.
Glad you're OK!
I'm pretty certain that I'm a safer drivet because of my scootering habbits on the roads
Stig
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...may have to invest is a couple of LED replacements....
that would increase your light output significantly...and look really good
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Thanks Tom. With regard to biking skills making you a better driver, I agree 100% and would go further, I'd make a bike licence a stepping stone to your car licence!
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cool ! so what does it take to get the nose off. or is it better to just go ahead and read all 60 pages of "what did you do to your DT300 today" lol
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cool ! so what does it take to get the nose off. or is it better to just go ahead and read all 60 pages of "what did you do to your DT300 today" lol
NJ
Read all the 60 pages! Har, har! Takes real patience to find anything like that!
DO NOT START THIS UNLESS TEMPERATURE IS 70°F OR MORE!
1. Remove windscreen, 4@ 6 mm socket head cap screws, 1@ 10 mm hex under the swing away Kymco emblem.
2. Remove 6@ Phillips screws facing rider, all parallel to each other. Leave the two that are angled upward. These are blunt end self-tapping threads.
3. Remove 3@ Phillips screws above front fender, left, right and under center of pointy nose.
4. Remove triangular shiny black cover the single screw under the pointy nose was holding. This thing is a real bear to remove the first time! Put duct tape right along each side of this piece to avoid gouging the main part of the nose fairing when this piece lets go! It has two "plugs" near its upper end that fit into rubbery grommets. This is one of the cosmetic parts that fit real tight. I put dielectric grease on those two plugs when finally removed to make it easier the next time.
5. Remove two 10 mm hex nuts that were covered by that thing removed in step 4.
6. Remove fairing by wiggling pointy nose up, down and around to kinda loosen things up a bit. Then with one hand on the pointy nose and the other a couple of fingers in that big center hole, pull upward until the bottom edges pop out. Then pull straight forward. I have broken no tabs off yet!
WAIT! You have to disconnect two wiring harness before you walk off with this! This event really needs two people but it CAN be done with just one. Use dielectric grease on those plugs so it will be easier next time. Yes, there will be a next time because...well, you will find another reason!
Post when you are ready to put the nose back on! Har, har! Hint: get the bottom, forward edges fit first then tilt it back. Then lift up the black edges at top on one side to get all those "finger" thingys under the edges then do the other side. Make sure all the edges mesh properly. Take time to seat this thing precisely, it WILL fit perfectly. TELL ME YOU FORGOT TO PLUG THOSE TWO HARNESS BACK IN!
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Karl you really are an asset to the Forum with all your detailed knowledge. I'm sure I speak for many in thanking you for your time, effort and humour.
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Karl you really are an asset to the Forum with all your detailed knowledge. I'm sure I speak for many in thanking you for your time, effort and humour.
Aw, shucks! Thank you!
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Aw, shucks! Thank you!
Carl you are forgiven. We all love Dolly.
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Har, har! . TELL ME YOU FORGOT TO PLUG THOSE TWO HARNESS BACK IN!
Awesome, Bub ! Thanks! I was afraid step one would be remove seat & tub, then work your way forward :D
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😂
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;D ;D
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He's a treasure for certain!
Stig
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He's a treasure for certain!
Stig
There's a standard riposte for that expression over here...