KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 125 to 300 => Agility 125 => Topic started by: aschrauth on October 20, 2020, 11:47:00 PM
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Hello everyone.
I have a kymco 125cc that I use daily. So I had a problem this morning. On my way to work Hop on my trusty scooter and make it halfway up my subdivision when suddenly my scooter starts sputtering, I try to give it more throttle but it keeps sputtering, I let off the throttle and it dies completely. So being late for work I walk it back to my garage..... Fast forward to tonight. When I got home I did a thorough inspection,
Cleaned carb jets and entire Carb
Adjusted timing.004 for intake .005 for exhaust.
Checked for spark; Had spark.
Adjusted the mixture screw and idle screw
So far I have done all of these methods and when I try to turn over the engine it cranks but will not start.
I preformed a test where I took the sparkplug out of the socket and stuck my finger in the hole :P with the clean carb I did not feel any gasoliene on my finger. As of right now I have the battery on the charger and will try to diagnose the issue tomorrow ( ran out of daylight).
I am probably going to end up ordering a new Carb.
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I would guess either your vacuum operated fuel valve is stuck shut or your vacuum operated vent valve is stuck shut or both.
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Did you try a new fuel filter ?
Maybe you can also disconnect the vacuum pipe from the petcock, as well as the fuel pipe at the carb. Then just suck slightly at the loose vacuum pipe by mouth or seringe to see if fuel is running out from the loose fuel pipe. Fuel should be running freely from the fuel pipe when you start sucking.
Just put a container under the fuel pipe before you start sucking.
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great advice from both Crossbolt and Scooterfan! Much better to try their suggestions before spending money on a carb. It's highly unlikely that your carb just 'stopped working'...it sure sounds like a fuel delivery issue.
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Ok everyone so I found the issue for the moment. My scooter does not use a vacuum system like others do. Instead it uses gravity to help the gas flow. All I did was remove the fuel line and blow air into the tank. Reinstalled everything and she fired right up. Now I have another issue.
When starting my scooter Idles fine. However once I give it gas it starts to sputter to the point to where it floods the engine if I go complete full throttle, When I deep cleaned the carb I removed every component including the idle mixture screw. For some reason I cannot get the idle mixture screw and the low speed mixture screw sync no matter how much I adjust. Ran out of time today due to limited Daylight but will try again tomorrow. Any help is gladly appreciated. YOU GUYS ROCK!!!
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Ok everyone so I found the issue for the moment. My scooter does not use a vacuum system like others do. Instead it uses gravity to help the gas flow. All I did was remove the fuel line and blow air into the tank. Reinstalled everything and she fired right up. Now I have another issue.
When starting my scooter Idles fine. However once I give it gas it starts to sputter to the point to where it floods the engine if I go complete full throttle, When I deep cleaned the carb I removed every component including the idle mixture screw. For some reason I cannot get the idle mixture screw and the low speed mixture screw sync no matter how much I adjust. Ran out of time today due to limited Daylight but will try again tomorrow. Any help is gladly appreciated. YOU GUYS ROCK!!!
Well, yes it does use gravity but the vacuum valve opens the fuel line to flow to the carburetor. It is like the old petcock on a real motorcycle except automatic.
Try starting with idle mixture screw 2.5 turns open from seated.
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Ok everyone so I found the issue for the moment. My scooter does not use a vacuum system like others do. Instead it uses gravity to help the gas flow. All I did was remove the fuel line and blow air into the tank. Reinstalled everything and she fired right up. Now I have another issue.
When starting my scooter Idles fine. However once I give it gas it starts to sputter to the point to where it floods the engine if I go complete full throttle, When I deep cleaned the carb I removed every component including the idle mixture screw. For some reason I cannot get the idle mixture screw and the low speed mixture screw sync no matter how much I adjust. Ran out of time today due to limited Daylight but will try again tomorrow. Any help is gladly appreciated. YOU GUYS ROCK!!!
Quite interesting. Just a couple of questions:
1. What model is this ? Agilty 125 ?
2. Did it originally came with a petcock valve, or has the petcock valve been removed as part of a modification ?
3. When you blew air into the tank - did you remove the old fuel filter before you started blowing air into the tank ?
4. Did you replace the old fuel filter with a new fuel filter - or are you still using the old filter ?
If the scooter originally came with a petcock valve I think the modification is part of your problem. If it came with a petcock valve but it has been removed, and the fuel filter was partly blocked, think there is a possibilty that a partly blocked fuel filter could have kept you going for a while. In such a case I think since you blew air into the tank there is a possibility that the engine might be flooded with fuel now.
Or if the old fuel filter has not been replaced - the old filter might be blocked by dirt again - the same dirt that’s been blown into the tank when you used air.
Bottom line - it is important to know whether the old fuel filter has been replaced or not, and whether this scooter originally came with a petcock valve or not.
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Quite interesting. Just a couple of questions:
1. What model is this ? Agilty 125 ?
it is a kymco agility 125cc
2. Did it originally came with a petcock valve, or has the petcock valve been removed as part of a modification ?
still has origional oem petcock valve
3. When you blew air into the tank - did you remove the old fuel filter before you started blowing air into the tank ?
removed fuel filter and then blew air into the tank
4. Did you replace the old fuel filter with a new fuel filter - or are you still using the old filter ?
Replaced with new filter
So update on today, went and reinstalled the old Carb, I had no luck getting the carb to cooperate, I tried adjusting both the idle mixture screw and the idle speed screw to no avail, For some reason I cannot get the engine to increase or decrease rpm with turning of the mixture screw.
My new Carb comes from amazon tomorow, Going to throw it on and see if it changes anything, Here is a video today of the issue.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kJgpg5Zc0IBZ1T9kQdIuqTM2-j_XNmxP/view?usp=sharing
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Is this fuel petcock manually operated?
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no
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Ok everyone so I found the issue for the moment. My scooter does not use a vacuum system like others do. Instead it uses gravity to help the gas flow. All I did was remove the fuel line and blow air into the tank. Reinstalled everything and she fired right up. Now I have another issue.
When starting my scooter Idles fine. However once I give it gas it starts to sputter to the point to where it floods the engine if I go complete full throttle, When I deep cleaned the carb I removed every component including the idle mixture screw. For some reason I cannot get the idle mixture screw and the low speed mixture screw sync no matter how much I adjust. Ran out of time today due to limited Daylight but will try again tomorrow. Any help is gladly appreciated. YOU GUYS ROCK!!!
Well since your comments (above) you mentioned the scooter has a petcock valve.
That means your idea that your scooter does not work like other scooters is completely wrong. It actually works exactly like other scooters.
If you did not test the petcock valve like I suggested, the petcock valve can still cause your problem.
For a start, you need to get rid of the idea that your scooter does not work like other scooters, then test the petcock.
Your answer to Crossbolt’s question was “no” - which to my mind means you do not realize there will be no gravity feed your scooter unless the petcock valve works properly. The petcock valve actually controls gravity feed on your scooter.
If the engine does not swing or run to cause suction (a vaccuum) at the petcock valve, there would be no way in life that you will have any gravity feed on your scooter.
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Ok, starting to learn more. My old wolf wx50 ha d a petcock that operated with just one hose. Ill check the petcock tomorow evening, I did install a new fel filtwr.like you stated and.it ran jst fine at idle. However, it cuts ot when i gve it throttle, I have not change d any of the.jets, the inly thing i have messed with is the idle and fule mixtre screw, today I spent three hours trying to adjUst and no luck.
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Three hours?! Idle stop and idle mixture do not affect high speed. Saw the video. Nice and clean! High speed jet plugged/diaphragm stuck/not moving.
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from the video it looked like it was idling fine but when you gave it gas it died. On my scoot that was a clogged pilot (slow speed) jet. Tiny, tiny hole in that jet, can be hard to clean properly.
Have you pulled the carb and re cleaned everything?...or are you just going to put the new carb on and be done with it?
Let us know how this works out.
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New carb comes in today. Will install after work and let you guys know
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OK everyone, My issue is solved. So I think I have narrowed down why my scooter was sputtering when going full throttle. Upon further inspection of the old carb I noticed that there was a part missing that must have gotten lost when I tore it doen for cleaning. My guess is that this missing piece was allowing too much fuel into the carb causing the bogging at mid to full throttle. I installed the new one and a brand new fuel filter and my bike is running like new again.
I am unaware of what this piece of the carb is, my guess is that it is a spacer that holds the needle in place.
Thank you everyone for all your help. It probably will not be long before something else happens.
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I’m glad you managed to get it going. Do’nt worry, depending on the milage on your scooter nothing is going to happen soon.
My Agility has done almost 26 000km at this stage and it is still in perfect condition. I just had to replace the CDI at 9300km as well as the Voltage Regulator at 18500km.
I bought an extra CDI and Voltage Regulator to have replacements ready just in case.
I also had to replace the clutch quite recenly.
It looks like my Agility should reach at least 40 to 50 000km without major problems.
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OK everyone, My issue is solved. So I think I have narrowed down why my scooter was sputtering when going full throttle. Upon further inspection of the old carb I noticed that there was a part missing that must have gotten lost when I tore it doen for cleaning. My guess is that this missing piece was allowing too much fuel into the carb causing the bogging at mid to full throttle. I installed the new one and a brand new fuel filter and my bike is running like new again.
I am unaware of what this piece of the carb is, my guess is that it is a spacer that holds the needle in place.
Thank you everyone for all your help. It probably will not be long before something else happens.
Welcome to the world of "BOING!" and "PFFFT!" where small parts disappear never to be seen again! Each small part is so vital that whatever it is in will never work without it!
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aschrauth - glad you figured it out, and thanks for sharing the fix with us. Out of curiosity, where did you get your replacement carb and how much did it cost? Was it a perfect 'plug and play' fit?
I also didn't notice, are you in the US or somewhere else?
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Here is the link, It was the exact OEM replacement for my origional carb. Very cheap as well. Yes, I am in the United States.
I took the bike out for a ride today and didn't get far on simply just plugging it in, had to make some minor adjustments to the idle speed screw. Upped the RPM by a tad and its running great!!
https://www.amazon.com/ChinesePartsPro-64178-Carburetor-125cc-scooter/dp/B00V6QM97Y/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=ChinesePartsPro+64178+Carburetor+24mm+GY6+125cc+150cc+ATV+scooter+parts&qid=1603591853&sr=8-1 (https://www.amazon.com/ChinesePartsPro-64178-Carburetor-125cc-scooter/dp/B00V6QM97Y/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=ChinesePartsPro+64178+Carburetor+24mm+GY6+125cc+150cc+ATV+scooter+parts&qid=1603591853&sr=8-1)
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wow..19 bucks for a new carb? That's crazy! That's the steal of the century. A Kymco OEM carb is probably a couple hundred bucks! Glad it all worked out.
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wow..19 bucks for a new carb? That's crazy! That's the steal of the century. A Kymco OEM carb is probably a couple hundred bucks! Glad it all worked out.
True. If I would find myself in a country with long cold winters like the US and I could get a new carb at that price I would surely have a new extra carb handy. It can easily eliminate possible problems as a matter of “plug in and play”.
I can see the price of Agility’s rising in the US and Amazon running out of carbs real quick lol
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Ok everybody. I Spoke to soon. >:(
10/26/20
Temperature 40 and rainy
So I got up for work today, the temperature was about 40 degrees out and to top it off it was starting to drizzle. I started up my scooter to go to work and only lasted five minutes on the road before another breakdown, All of the sudden I herd a PUTT PUTT PUTTT and then the scooter shut off Tried starting it again but the only thing I could hear was the starter turning. So once again I was late for work and had to call in a ride. I chained up the scooter in a remote location and after work I started working on it adjusting the Idle speed screw and the mixture screw. Started the scooter up and it started imminently I Managed to get it running but only managed to go about 50ft thats when it started to idle slowly and then shutoff.
My mother was with me at the time and the location I was at was in a bar Parking lot, She recommended that we ask one of the gentlemen in the bar if we could use their truck to haul my scooter back home, Luckily one nice gentleman agreed to do it for $20. (Towing was about 150.00 from a towtruck company)
I really am pulling my hair out at this point, I adjusted the idle mixture screw and the idle screw to the point to where the rear tires were not excessively spinning but not so much that when I revved the bike that It died. all of this I did after the automatic enricher closed. When tuning I listened to the engine, as soon as I got done giving it gas it slowly started to die down and then went back to Idling speed.
Could it be possible that my CDI is not putting out enough powerful of a spark, It was replaced awhile ago with a DC CDI from Amazon. Also forgot to mention that the new Carb came with a 102 main jet and a 36 pilot jet, Old carb has a 103 Main jet and a 35 pilot jet.
After today I am about ready to put this Bike in storage for the winter and deal with it in the spring.
Sorry for the lengthy post, I have had one Heck of a day and am really stumped to why my scooter is doing this. Below I will list things that I have done to the bike since I purchased it Late September.
New CDI : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H2B89NC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H2B89NC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
New Carb: Hity Motor PD24J Carburetor for 4- Stroke GY6 125cc 150cc 152QMI 157QMJ Engine Scooter ATV Go Kart Kazuma Baja Kymco Taotao SunL Tank with Fuel Filter Spark Plug Intake Manifold and Adjusting Shims
New battery: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GGTCJ9Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GGTCJ9Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Shotglass of MMO added to about half a tank of Gas on 10/25/20
GY6 High preformance air scoop
Things that are stock on Bike
Exhaust
Emissions components
Spark plug wire
Spark plug
Magneto
Air filter
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So you are back to square one? How many of these modifications were in place when this was running daily? How long, how many miles approximately did this run properly before this trouble started? When and why was the CDI replaced?
Whatvare adjustingbshims and where do they go?
Have you replaced the fuel tank? (List of changes: tank with fuel filter)
You listed spark plug as original but also said you had replaced it. So which?
I am thinking at this point you may have a vacuum leak somewhere and have adjustedvaround this leak. You may have an intermittent fuel problem at either the vacuum operated fuel valve or vent valve. Carb is incidental: doing the original dance with replacement carb.
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It was running daily about a week ago with everything except the air scoop, replacement carb and the shotglass of MMO in the gas tank.
CDI box was replaced about 200km ago due to a no spark condition, origional Kymco box went bad at around 900km
Fuel tank is OEM, new fuel filter was Installed with New carb.
Now that you mention it forgot to state in my previous post that the scooter ran somewhat better with the gas cap off but not by much.
Im not sure what the adjusting shims are that came with the new carb. I plugged the carb in on 9/24 and went for a 15 mile ride let the bike sit all day of 9/25 and started it backup again on 6/26. On 6/25 is when I added the MMO.
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Now that you mention it forgot to state in my previous post that the scooter ran somewhat better with the gas cap off but not by much.
could this be as simple as fixing a gas cap venting issue?
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Lahawk took the words right out of my head! Somewhere on your scoot is a diagram of the evaporative system which includes the vacuum vent valve, carb, fuel tank, vacuum auto petcock, etc. This diagram is NOT in the service nor operator's manual.
Direct link:
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/393386/Kymco-Kymco-Agility-125-Service-Manual.html?page=22 (https://www.manualslib.com/manual/393386/Kymco-Kymco-Agility-125-Service-Manual.html?page=22)
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Is there anyway that I can vent the gas cap without drilling a hole? Iv herd the kymco gas caps are expensive. As far as my carb goes it ran fine when it was above a certain tempature. I rode on Saturday and the temp was in the 50's however, yesterday when I rode it was only in the 30's, that's when I started having trouble. I have a completely sealed airbox, could running another main jet based on temp prevent the engine from cutting out?
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Yes, there is a way other than drilling your gas cap! That's why I sent those screen shots from the service manual. There is a hose or two from the carb base that supply vacuum to the auto petcock and the vent valve. Usually it is ONE skinny tube from one brass tube on the carb, then a "T" branching to the two vacuum operated valves. What you do results in the auto petcock being the only thing connected to the carb. You have to find the vacuum valve for the fuel tank vent and re-plumb it. Usually, the vent line is a tube from the valve down towards the road surface. Keep that pretty much where it is but connect it directly to the other tube that goes to the tank usually a small steel tube out the side of the filler neck on the fuel tank BELOW the seat for the gas cap.
You can get plastic splice tubes at the auto parts stores generally or from Amazon.
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Lahawk took the words right out of my head!
Karl - it's Iowa Hawk! IA hawk...not La hawk. I know, hard to tell when it's all in lower case letters... 8)
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Karl - it's Iowa Hawk! IA hawk...not La hawk. I know, hard to tell when it's all in lower case letters... 8)
OOPS! Iowa not LA! Got it! Har, har!
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Ok, thank you for the advice. Ill also do a vaccume leak test this weekend when I have the time. I have another question to ask. Do you think the issue could be with the jet size of the new carb? The old one had a size 103MJ and a 35 pilot jet, the new carb has a 102MJ and a 36 PJ?
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No, I do not. One jet size wrong either way would maybe run crappy, hot, cold but notbfade out and quit. THAT is usually a fuel problem.
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Ok so I did some searching around on my scooter and I found two connections to the intake manifold that both have "t" connections and both hook up to two canisters in the scooter one at the base and one. There also appears to be a line that has been crimped with a plastic cap on the filler neck of the gas tank is this supposed to be blocked off or connected to the carb?
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That is the vent line! Find some small tubing that will tolerate gasoline and hook to that tube! Route the tube toward the ground and secure with a zip tie. Your flame-outs should go away!
Make sure there are no open vacuum ports/tubes on or near the carb.
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here is some pictures of what I took I attached another picture of the two T lines in a word document
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OOPS! Iowa not LA! Got it! Har, har!
A mistake I made too Karl. Fair step from LA to Iowa too!
[emoji23]
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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here is some pictures of what I took I attached another picture of the two T lines in a word document
What year model is your Agility ?
My Agility is a 2009 model and it does not have a connection for a vent hose like that. My Agility came with a small hole at the side of the fuel cap. The small hole at the cap allows ventilation at the tank.
Like Crossbolt mentioned - the hose linked to the connection just under the cap should be a vent opening to your tank. The hose should not be connected to anything and there should be no plug at the far end.
I think you just need to make sure that that hose has not been pinched in a closed position down the line.
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What year model is your Agility ?
My Agility is a 2009 model and it does not have a connection for a vent hose like that. My Agility came with a small hole at the side of the fuel cap. The small hole at the cap allows ventilation at the tank.
Like Crossbolt mentioned - the hose linked to the connection just under the cap should be a vent opening to your tank. The hose should not be connected to anything and there should be no plug at the far end.
I think you just need to make sure that that hose has not been pinched in a closed position down the line.
It's an 09 model
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Ok so I took the plastic cap off of the gas filler neck and attached a fuel hose on the nipple. I plan on tuning the carb this weekend I also preformed a smoke test and no leaks were visible from the evap system.
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Can't wait for your report!
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OK everyone, an update on my progress.
I rehooked the carb this morning, Removed my spark plug and inspected it; It was dripping with fuel and had black sooty deposits on the top, My guess is It got fouled when I had my breakdown last week. Have 3 fresh new plugs coming today, cleaned the old one with brake parts cleaner and a wire brush and installed it back into the scooter.
Put in fresh gas and attempted to start the scooter. All I got was the motor turning over. So I went back to square one on diagnosing a crank but no start issue. I Checked to see if I was getting fuel, Put my finger over the spark plug hole and found that the engine was getting fuel. So Fuel delivery is not an issue. Next I checked the spark plug and low and behold When I cranked the engine there was no spark. I tried switching to another ignition coil that I know worked and still did not get a spark. Made sure both Ignition coils were fastened properly, Still no spark.
My only guess is that It is the CDI. However, I just bought this one from amazon less than three months ago.
Triumilynn High Performance 6 Pin DC CDI Racing Ignition Box Fits for GY6 50cc 80cc 100cc 125cc 150cc 200cc 250cc Scooter Moped Go Kart Dune Buggy ATV
As of Now I just ordered this CDI from Amazon; this one comes with a new Ignition coil and comes with a new CDI that is for DC systems. The thing Im scratching my head over is how long this so called " performance" CDi lasted.
KIMISS 2Pcs Ignition Coil DC CDI Box Kit for Kymco SYM Vento Scooter GY6 Engine 125CC 150CC
As of now everything is back to stock on this bike except the fuel filter, Waiting on the delivery of the CDI and will update you guys on my progress. Im starting to think that I might have a bigger issue with this bike.
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I can understand the disappointment! You will know more about your machine when this is sorted!
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I can understand the disappointment! You will know more about your machine when this is sorted!
Karl, what is your experrience with aftermarket CDI boxes, is it normal for scooters to go through them?
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Very little. Scooterfan, souzamoto and several others are way more up on those things more than me. I learned from them that there are AC and DC versions. DC works off the battery bus and the AC works off the alternator. The two are not interchangeable. The ebay CDI aare generally chinese and most all are pretty reliable...I think.
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Okay, you have an electrical problem.
This is what I would do:
1. Have a close look at the fuse connections. The connections or fuses could be corroded, or the the fuses could be sitting slightly loose inside the connections.
2. Do a resistance test on the spark plug cable to see if the wire is not broken.
3. Make sure the spark plug Cap is properly connected to the cable, and make sure the other end of the cable is properly connected to the Coil.
4. Hook the Battery to a Battery Charger, and make sure the battery is fully charged.
You mentioned the battery is new - but that does not mean the battery is fully charged or the battery is not faulty. Hardly any battery that comes off a shelve is fully charged - you actually need to hook it to a charger to get it fully charged.
This is very important on our scooters with DC CDI's - the CDI's on our scooters need an almost fully charged battery to generate a proper spark at the Spark Plug. It is important to understand that on our scooters with DC CDI's the Battery itself actually generates the spark at the Spark Plug (Capacitors at the inside of the CDI as well as the Coil just boost power to give a powerful spark at the Spark Plug).
So the weaker the Voltage at the Battery - the weaker the spark at the spark plug will be.
Apart from charging the battery, the Stator on our scooters only triggers the CDI to release power to the Spark Plug.
If the battery is fully charged and the scooter still does not start, you can do the following:
1. Unplug the 2 pin plug at the CDI.
The two pin plug only has one wire - the thin wire on that plug actually feeds power from the Battery to the Spark Plug (via the Capacitors in the CDI, the coil, and spark plug Cable).
So while the two pin plug has been unplugged, you need to do a Voltage test at the single wire on the loose plug.
With Ignition Switch in "on" position and the Negative wire on the Multi meter linked to (-) on the Battery, you should get between 12 -13 Volt reading at the connection on the plug. (The same Voltage reading when you do a direct Voltage test on the Battery).
Then
With the two pin plug still unplugged, somebody need to press the Starter Button to swing the engine.
While the engine is swinging, you need to do a Voltage Test at the single wire on the loose plug.
You need to get a voltage reading of at least 9.65 Volts on the loose wire - otherwise you will get an improper spark at the Spark Plug, and therefore starting problems.
If the Battery was fully charged but the Voltage at the loose wire on the plug was lower than 9.6 Volts, it means you have a voltage drop in the power line elsewhere before the Plug, or the new battery might be faulty.
New batteries are not faulty that often - but in our country it happens fairly often.
You should get a proper load test done on the battery before you buy another battery.
If everything looks okay and the scooter still does not start - you could try a new Voltage Regulator.
I do not know how it actually works, but some time ago somebody on a forum elsewhere mentioned that a starting problem on his scooter was solved by replacing the Voltage Regulator.
Not so long ago somebody on this forum also could not solve a starting problem - I just can't remember his name or scooter model.
I mentioned the guy who solved his problem with a Voltage Regulator, the guy on this forum installed a new Voltage Regulator - and his problem was solved.
I hope this helps.
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update on progress as of 11/4/2020
So I ordered this CDI from amazon and it arrived today in the mail.
WFLNHB Ignition Coil + DC CDI Fit for Kymco, SYM, Vento Scooter GY6 Engine Parts
Installed it and tried to check for Spark when all of the sudden I herd a popping sound coming from the CDI, Stopped immitiantly and found that the CDI was Hot to the touch. This CDI upon further inspection looked similar to an AC one. My guess is the seller on amazon is selling counterfeit CDI's that are marketed for DC scooters.
Defiantly will be returning this POJ. Bit the bullet and ordered a New OEM Kymco CDI as well as A preformance CDI like the one I had before. If you see this product anywhere make sure to avoid purchasing it.
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I could be wrong but I think something else is causing your CDI problems. Maybe you should remove the Voltage Regulator , have a close look at it and do a test on it with a Multimeter. There are Youtube videos which shows how it can be tested.
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Ok everyone an update on my progress as of 11/6/2020
So the new Cdi came in the mail today, I installed it and it fired right up. I have an OEM Kymco CDI coming in the mail next week just in case the one I got from Amazon checks out. while I was in the engine area I also removed the PAIR system and blocked off the hole on the Head. I was told this is for emissions ( My state doesn't do emissions on motorcycles). As of now the Bike is running like it originally did. Not really sure what happened with the old CDI but I am going to do the test that @scooterfan recommended. One thing I did notice was that the engine ran better with the PAIR system off, not sure if I will gain performance but It sure did free up a bunch of hoses and pipes.
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update on progress as of 11/4/2020
So I ordered this CDI from amazon and it arrived today in the mail.
WFLNHB Ignition Coil + DC CDI Fit for Kymco, SYM, Vento Scooter GY6 Engine Parts
Installed it and tried to check for Spark when all of the sudden I herd a popping sound coming from the CDI, Stopped immitiantly and found that the CDI was Hot to the touch. This CDI upon further inspection looked similar to an AC one. My guess is the seller on amazon is selling counterfeit CDI's that are marketed for DC scooters.
Defiantly will be returning this POJ. Bit the bullet and ordered a New OEM Kymco CDI as well as A preformance CDI like the one I had before. If you see this product anywhere make sure to avoid purchasing it.
I forgot to mention - the AC CDI’s are smaller than DC CDI’s. If that was an AC CDI chances are about Zero that the engine would start.
In your latest post you mentioned that you got the engine running with another CDI again.
Maybe you should just do an ordinary Voltage test at the battery at idling and then at higher engine speed as well.
I think there is a possibility that a CDI can get cooked if the Voltage output is too high at the Voltage Regulator.
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OK everyone heres an update on my progress as of 11/8/20
So I found out that I have a leaking fuel shutoff valve that is attached to the gas tank, I tried to tighten it but for some reason it is leaking where the stem strainer meets the valve, So I plan on ordering a new one.
Issue 2, Ever since I removed the PAIR system My valves are making a noticeable audible " Ticking sound". I reattached the PAIR system an In addition I also found out in the service manual for the kymco 125 that both valves are suppose to be set at 00.12mm. Before I had them set at 0.04 for intake and 0.05 for the exhaust. 0.04 and 0.05 were set stock from the factory. Im confused as to which one to set the valves to. Other than that the scooter runs perfect. When the valves are adjusted at 0.04 and 0.05 there is still an audible ticking but it is not as loud. Currently I have both intake and exhaust set at the service manual recommendations.
Went for a ride today to Work which is approximately four miles to and from and everything on the scooter seemed OK besides a small drip from the fuel petcock. Going to attempt to ride to work tomorrow, Praying that nothing goes wrong.
scooterfan suggested that I take a look at the voltage at Idle and the voltage at WOT, This could be the issue with why the bike keeps burning through CDI's. I have a spare voltage resistor laying around and will probably install it next week. Did not have the time to test today due to limited daylight.
Below is the audible ticking sound that is coming from the valves, For some reason It will not let my upload it to this forum but I will upload it VIA YouTube.
https://youtu.be/ajw0-III8eQ
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The PAIR system on my Agility is still in place so I do not know what the valve noise would be like when the system gets removed. Valve clearance gaps on my Agility always get set at .12 mm.
At almost 26 000km the engine still runs perfectly.
P.S. Regarding CDI’s - I think the best investment a scooter owner can ever do on a scooter is to buy a proper Multimeter. There are plenty Yotube videos available to show how different scooter components can be tested with a Multimeter.
I am not sure whether you have one - therefore my comments.
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I think a common area of confusion is the valve clearance....004 or .005 INCHES or .12 MM. The inches and mm get mixed up. Looking at the conversion calculator .12 mm = .0047 inches.
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I assume this scooter’s problem has been solved ?
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I assume this scooter’s problem has been solved ?
Yes, So far so good, replaced the regulator rectifier and everything seems ok. I do have another issue that I really didnt realise untill I put on my new carb. At 1/4 throttle I noticed that the engine RPM is higher. In Missouri it is getting cold ( low tonight is 25) would upgrading to a larger jet size allow more fuel to flow. I know in the cold that engines neee more fuel to run, would increasing the jet size bring down the rpm at 1\4 throttle?
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I had the exact same problem and did the exact same diagnosis. Problem is the clearance on the valves mentioned elsewhere in the valve adjustment section of this kymco 125 section blog. Kymco says .004mm. Should be .004INCHES or .012mm. I have a kymco manual that shows both specs! Shame on Kymco. After adjusting, my headaches disappeared!!! Good luck!
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Sorry, all this diagnostic stuff has made me crazy. .12mm is the correct measurement which is about .0047 inches. Basic point is if you set the valve clearances up for .004mm like the Kymco manual says in the valve clearance adjustment section, the scooter will die once it warms up and the parts expand. Talking about the agility 125 here. Good luck!