KymcoForum.com
General => Technical | How To => Topic started by: CROSSBOLT on March 30, 2020, 09:40:59 PM
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Applies to any sheathed cable, any brand, any control.
https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0182 (https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0182)
But some places want 20 bucks for this and I am to stingy to even spring for ten bucks for this one. Don't even know if lube will fix the problem. So I gotta different approach to the same idea. Will post pictures soon. Sooner if it works! Har, har!
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You mean taking a baggie and cutting the corner off, slipping it over the cable and wrapping a rubber band around several times to form a Funnel then fill the funnel with some type of cable lube?
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No, not the baggie idea but some sticky, sealing tape (see pictures) to attempt to seal the skinny delivery tube and the adjustment joints. The delivery tube leaked a little but the adjusters not a drop. Left the tape on the adjusters.
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That rear tire looks like it should do you until the Rapture....
You might use your down time to do some work with a toothbrush and some scooter cleaner and...…
No. Better idea.
Get a lawn chair and sit in line for T-Paper at WallyWorld.
Stig
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Toothbrush? Lawnchair better idea!
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What tire is that? Is the squarish profile a problem when cornering?
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What tire is that? Is the squarish profile a problem when cornering?
That is a car tire, Achilles model 122 steel belt radial 150-80R13. No problem in cornering because of sidewall flex. Running this car tire because I got extremely weary of changing rear tires every 3500 to 6000 miles. Got this off Amazon for about 37 bucks.
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Guessing the 1st pic is the throttle cable? No guess what the 2nd pic is of.
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Thanks, I wore out the original Chen something tire with 8000 aggressive km and am almost through with a 35 dollar Kenda after only 5000km. Might look into this as I need a hard touring tire for mileage. I am not worried about traction to much as I usually ride at its limit whatever it be.
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I previously just used old latex hand gloves to make a funnel for forcing a lubricant down my motorcycle’s, as well down my current scooter’s cables. I just punched a tiny hole at the glove, slide it down 1 to 2 inches over the cable, and use a rubber band to strap the glove around the cable to prevent a leak.
I took some photos previously and will try to find it.
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Guessing the 1st pic is the throttle cable? No guess what the 2nd pic is of.
Neither are throttle cables but the seat latch release cables on a Downtown 300i. What they are is less important than one of the techniques for cleaning and lubing. Scooterfan just posted a great idea using a latex glove to force the solution through. Removing/replacing cables on a scooter is practically a retirement project just getting the body work off.
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Neither are throttle cables but the seat latch release cables on a Downtown 300i. What they are is less important than one of the techniques for cleaning and lubing. Scooterfan just posted a great idea using a latex glove to force the solution through. Removing/replacing cables on a scooter is practically a retirement project just getting the body work off.
Unfortunately it looks like I didn’t take photos. If I remember correctly I used an ordinary small plastic bag when I did the scooter cables - instead of a latex glove. The plastic bag also just had a tiny hole, and I also use a rubber band around the bottom to prevent a leak. It worked just as well.
The speedo cable on my scooter has been lubricated this way as well.
When I service cables this way I always loosen the cables at the bottom, let it hang down, and put a bucket underneath.
I then force some paraffin down the cable, while I wiggle the cable up and down at the top. I keep on forcing paraffin down the cable until clean paraffin start dripping from the bottom of the cable. Then I let the cable hang down for a while into the bucket until the paraffin stop dripping from the cable. Once the paraffin stop dripping, I start forcing oil or WD 40 down the cable. A bit time consuming - but wiggling the inner cable up and down helps to speed it up. If the cable still weep some fluid at the bottom after installation, I just clean with a rag until the weeping stops.
In my 11 year old scooter’s case I found the cables quite dirty a couple of months ago.
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I just run oil from oil can down opening of top of cable, even on the lined ones that are not supposed to need oil---- have not broken a cable in the past 40-50 years.....not since Brit bikes!
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Gonna have to bump this one back up?
Seat latches working fine as frog's fur since April and yesterday first opening. The second attempt at opening was no-go. Key would turn only a small amount. Used the emergency entry trick of reaching up in the fairing to the backside of ignition switch and yanking the housing only to get a "snap!" and a lot of slack. Still no entry. Did my errands in the minivan.
Today, tackled the seat latch problem. I will bypass the frustrating efforts required except the seat became unlatched and open. The problem was RUSTY CABLES swelled in the housings preventing movement and snapping in two when the housings were pulled!
Have a shortened cable with a terminal lug for a handle to pull to gain access while I wait for a replacement....
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Whew! Been nearly a YEAR since the cable to the seat latch broke because of rust! Been gathering parts and materials to rebuild the cable assembly. Flanders supplied the fine stainless .050" cable, Amazon for the soldering flux and brass rods to shape into end fittings. The picture shows the smallest fittings made today:
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That rear tire looks like it should do you until the Rapture....
Stig
Oh no, now you’ll have restarted that whole Dark Side debate!
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Crossbolt, why do you think your cables rusted? Does braided stainless rust often? I agree with the cable placement / replacement issue....man, what a pain to have to replace them! I wish the seat release wasn't controlled by a 6 foot long cable that is critical to operating the scoot..as in you have to get to the gas filler somehow.
Nice work building your own cables. Please show us more of your work and the finished cables.
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meant to mention that I also use that same Motion Pro cable luber...when I finally get it right it works great...it's just that I usually waste half a can of lube spraying it everywhere until I finally get it set up right for the lube to actually go inside the cable!
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Crossbolt, why do you think your cables rusted? Does braided stainless rust often? I agree with the cable placement / replacement issue....man, what a pain to have to replace them! I wish the seat release wasn't controlled by a 6 foot long cable that is critical to operating the scoot..as in you have to get to the gas filler somehow.
Nice work building your own cables. Please show us more of your work and the finished cables.
The cables rusting probably from me using Gunk degreaser on engine and flushing with water. I think the water got in at the left side adjusters and went to the low spot and stayed.
Made the end fittings today. The originals are spheres and being lazy, I made half-spheres. The OEM ends are just cast lead which are OK in this low tension application.
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@CROSSBOLT,
looking good your half spheres. You will know, but during and after soldering try to shield the cable and cable housings as much as possible from soldering flux, for it gets pretty corrosive after being heated up and will cause rust right there. Then clean with fuel and rubbing alcohol to get leftovers off.
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@CROSSBOLT,
looking good your half spheres. You will know, but during and after soldering try to shield the cable and cable housings as much as possible from soldering flux, for it gets pretty corrosive after being heated up and will cause rust right there. Then clean with fuel and rubbing alcohol to get leftovers off.
Good advice! Will do!
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Major setback: one of the five cable housings is completely blocked by rust! The other that was blocked was drilled out with a wire. Will have to replace that housing from a bicycle shop somewhere.
The first picture should be the ignition switch. The gold lever with the hole is the actuator for the seat release. Its available pull distance is .5 inch.
The second picture is of one seat latch, the one on machine right. The critical distance is .875" between the "L" bracket to your left and the "stirrup" U shaped thingy to the right. The U shape moves .125" to release the latch.
All these dimensions determine how long to make each cable.
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Applies to any sheathed cable, any brand, any control.
https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0182 (https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0182)
These little gizmos are excellent. I've had one for years and they're really worth the few dollars because they send the lube right through the cable in one shot.
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Update:
Got a cable and housing set from Amazon that was PERFECT! Has enough to do the job and uses .050" stainless 7 trand wire. Called "Corki Universal bicycle cable housing for Shimano SRAM deraileur" and lists for 10.00 USD!
Changed end stops to avoid problems with TPFE coating on shifter cable. Picture below.
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I wonder.
Am I the only one who does not bother to latch my scooter's seat?
My Piaggio requires a firm latching, so since the scooter is always garaged - or in my line of sight - I never bother closing it fully to the point of latching.
The scoot has an electric release button (NOT involving the ignition or its key) and a back-up manual release lever. I just never use either.
I guess if I ever have a major 'off' one of the ambulance personnel will have to police up all the Moon Pies I've stored beneath me.
Stig
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Wouldn't work on my X-Town Tom, that snaps shut as soon as you sit on the seat - and no, that's not just my weight, how dare you!
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This seat would latch if sat upon, too. Got it lubed, adjusted and tested yesterday. Even devised and installed "emergency trip wires!" Pictures later..
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Emergency trip wires, left and right..hard to see but work easily!