KymcoForum.com
General => Technical | How To => Topic started by: marcohildebrandt on January 06, 2020, 07:09:34 AM
-
Would like some advice on power loss issue. Kymco Like 200i 163cc fuel injected model purchased new 2015 in Australia. It now has 9300km on clock (January 2020) with one drive belt change at 8000km. Scheduled services by Kymco authorised dealer I purchased from on Gold Coast.
From new I could sit at 90-100km/h and stay ahead of cars from lights. Around 8000km started to have issues with loss of power. About same time had issues with drive belt slippage and replaced by Kymco authorised dealer I purchased from. He though power issue related to drive belt and to wait for new one to wear in.
Drive belt has worn in but still have issues with power loss. Dealer can't find any issues. Symptoms; power ok until throttle reaches around 60-70% travel, any further and I lose power. Top speed now only 70-80km/h if I am lucky on a straight flat section of road. Also sometimes more so in winter, after starting and first time accelerating the motor stutters. If you release throttle and accelerate and repeat a few times it clears. (winter in Brisbane is not that cold, around 10-15 degrees Celsius min temps at night).
I have done the usual, checked for kinked fuel lines, changed spark plug myself and oil. All cables/electrics look secure. Always use premium 98 octane fuel and good quality oil and standard spark plug as per user manual. Only thing I found was a battery with fluid level at about half way and white powder on top of lead plates. After topping up and charge voltage OK and keeping charge OK.
I would appreciate any advice. Thank you in advance, Marco
-
Good morning Marco, and welcome to the forum.
Greetings from a fellow LIKE200I owner - have the valves been checked in your routine servicing?
Although, with the stumble and loss of top end - sounds like it might be a fueling problem, (ecu/throttle body , fuel pump, injector)
But certainly valves need to be removed from the equation.
Are you getting any blinks from self diag codes with key on?
I'll do more reading and report back.
We'll get it sorted!
Stig
-
Ok, couple of easy things to rule out:
Valves adjusted?
Air filter clean? (this scoot keeps them very clean - but don't know your riding conditions )
Fuel cap vent hole clogged?
Does your dealer have Kymco diagnostic tool?
This tool can diagnose faulty timing...which is not adjustable. ...requires new/used ECU.
Stig
-
What would you think about replacing that 5yr old battery. EFI scoots like a healthy battery.
Stig
-
I am an owner of a Like 200i in the US (San Diego). I bought the service manual from Amazon (10 US) and will look for things that might help. The first one that caught my eye is an engine compression test. Here's a snippet from the manual:
-
Here's a snippet from the manual for potential causes of a poorly running engine:
-
Thank you everyone for your advice🙂 , I will go armed with it back to the dealer.
Stig, no blinks from light.
I'm a nurse and can fix people but motors are a bit beyond me😖😜
I will replace the battery as per your (Stig's) comment, makes sense and check vent hole, guess a blocked life support ventilator tube would have the same effect on a patient 😜
-
Good luck, Marco. On a personal note, the brush fires in Australia are getting a lot of play on US news and social madia. I hope you and your family are all clear. If your dealer fixes the problem, I hope you report the results here.
-
Thank you DanH, we are ok now near Brisbane the fires went through us in September and November, never seen anything like it in my life.
I will definitely post the solution, the least I can do in return for your support
-
Yes, really sad business about the fires. The people, their homes and those helpless animals.
Stig
-
Update:
checked fuel cap breather hole was ok
Replaced battery, some improvement, can now do 80-90km/h (50-56 miles/h) but still have intermittent power loss especially at higher speeds and up hills, so will have other items looked at by dealer that were recommended here.
Thank you so much everyone’s help
-
I'd suspect a partially blocked exhaust/muffler. Had a Xciting for someone and I experienced a loss of power. The dealer started with the drive belt and CVT parts also the finally replaced the muffler due to a broken baffle inside. I'm not sure if it fixed the problem as it doesn't have current registration so I can't ride it to see.
-
Hi MJR
My exhaust is more noisy since the loss of power but the dealer didn't think it was an issue at the time, a genuine exhaust is around $AU2000 or $AU300 plus on ebay non standard. Thank for your advice, will have the fuel system and valves checked and if not resolved then head down the exhaust path
-
Update:
checked fuel cap breather hole was ok
Replaced battery, some improvement, can now do 80-90km/h (50-56 miles/h) but still have intermittent power loss especially at higher speeds and up hills, so will have other items looked at by dealer that were recommended here.
Thank you so much everyone’s help
Meaning the "breather hole" visible when you remove the cap? That hole leads to the vacuum operated vent valve that sticks shut and causes problems like you describe. That "breather hole" is about 1/8 inch in diameter, right?
-
This is a common problem with Kymco 200i (fuel injected) scooters. You can read about many of them here on KymcoForum. Unfortunately, there's nothing you can do since the problem can't be diagnosed. It's kind of sad to read all the desperate suggestions like valve clearance adjustments, plugged exhaust, or blocked breather caps. This is a chronic Kymco failing. There is no support for Kymco F/I scooters from the factory or distributor. There's nothing that can be done except to scrap the machine and buy a different make that is supported by dealer diagnostics. I've heard that the basic engine is quite excellent and can be sold to Honda Ruckus drivers who then convert the engine to a carbureted version. The rest of the Kymco can usually be sold for scrap. It might be useful to hear from Kymco owners who have managed to convert their 200i machines to carbureted models, which would solve the problem completely.
-
This is a common problem with Kymco 200i (fuel injected) scooters. You can read about many of them here on KymcoForum. Unfortunately, there's nothing you can do since the problem can't be diagnosed. It's kind of sad to read all the desperate suggestions like valve clearance adjustments, plugged exhaust, or blocked breather caps. This is a chronic Kymco failing. There is no support for Kymco F/I scooters from the factory or distributor. There's nothing that can be done except to scrap the machine and buy a different make that is supported by dealer diagnostics. I've heard that the basic engine is quite excellent and can be sold to Honda Ruckus drivers who then convert the engine to a carbureted version. The rest of the Kymco can usually be sold for scrap. It might be useful to hear from Kymco owners who have managed to convert their 200i machines to carbureted models, which would solve the problem completely.
Well JJJ,
You have frequently written of your dislike of Kymco dealer & factory support, and fuel injected Kymco scooters.
However:
It is incorrect to characterize the Kymco 200i scooter as having common and chronic problems. To do so implies that 200i engine problems are usual & frequent & constantly recurring - which is absolutely not true. Actually the LIKE200i has been one of Kymco's most reliable platforms for a decade.
When you state something as fact, "the 200i has common/chronic" problems - that won't go uncontested.
You incorrectly state that the scooter cannot be repaired - and characterize member suggestions as desperate, etc., etc., etc.
Very few LIKE200i owners are selling their scooters for scrap. Most are happily riding them into the ground on several continents.
In spite of your stated 60 yrs of riding, do understand that your opinion, is just that...one member's opinion. And you're welcome to it. Readers can decide for themselves, what to make of your tone and opinions.
However - characterizing any members comments as desperate, pointless, pathetic and clueless is not welcome here. And so, those remarks have been deleted.
Also, a scooter forum is not the appropriate platform to discuss the hot topic of global warming - therefore those posts have been deleted as well.
Stig
-
Thanks, Stig- When the topic gets so far off track (e.g. global warming), it needs a helping hand!
-
This is a common problem with Kymco 200i (fuel injected) scooters. You can read about many of them here on KymcoForum. Unfortunately, there's nothing you can do since the problem can't be diagnosed. It's kind of sad to read all the desperate suggestions like valve clearance adjustments, plugged exhaust, or blocked breather caps. This is a chronic Kymco failing. There is no support for Kymco F/I scooters from the factory or distributor. There's nothing that can be done except to scrap the machine and buy a different make that is supported by dealer diagnostics. I've heard that the basic engine is quite excellent and can be sold to Honda Ruckus drivers who then convert the engine to a carbureted version. The rest of the Kymco can usually be sold for scrap. It might be useful to hear from Kymco owners who have managed to convert their 200i machines to carbureted models, which would solve the problem completely.
I, too, must address this as I am waiting for the original poster, Marco to eventually discover what the REAL cause of his problem. The real value of this and other forums is to collect valid information about the machines they ride and hopefully correct whatever problems may arise. The one typical problem that affects ALL brands and models is the vacuum operated vent valve for the gas tank which sticks shut. This actually was a problem discovered in about 2008 on the Genuine Buddy forum and was called the "Stall of Shame." The Buddy 150 (my wife's bike) was a well built, delightful rig that would lose power and eventually quit. Since it was a carburetor fed engine you had to wait while you fiddled with restart to fill the float bowl enough to actually get it to light off. Kymcos as a general rule, are well made, reliable machines with just a few exceptions. The Like 200i, DT300i and People GTi300 are not exceptions. Neither was the Agility 50 nor the Yager 200i. I can attest because I, we have owned and ridden those models for many tens of thousands of miles and have solved ALL the real problems that cropped up. Now, I have no feeling about Australian mechanics are like but I have experienced both directly and through others what American motorcycle/scooter techs are like and my conclusion is you will get straight answers here and not the dealer. My opinion on this is well known here and I will go no futher. Suffice, a LOT of time and energy and thought has gone into this experience and cannot be discounted by anyone. Further, the Kymco EFI machines have proven reliability with few exceptions. I am saying, there are few machine failures but many human failures. With that, I rest my case.
-
I can understand others being irritated with my take on Kymco fuel-injected machines, especially if your machine is reliable and predictable. I've had the misfortune of recommending Kymco 200s (Agility & Yager) to two friends and both machines have come to the end of useful life at less than 6,000 miles. Both will start, but misfire constantly when driven, and the nearest dealer (about 75 miles away) has been unable to repair either one. It's embarrassing, to me, to see a scooter end up like this. I made the recommendations, and it was a disaster.
FWIW, it would be really helpful if motorcycles had OBD-2 diagnostic ports like all cars. But they don't! Believe me, if there was a real solution, one that actually worked, I'd be the most thankful rider in scooter-dom!
-
I can understand others being irritated with my take on Kymco fuel-injected machines, especially if your machine is reliable and predictable. I've had the misfortune of recommending Kymco 200s (Agility & Yager) to two friends and both machines have come to the end of useful life at less than 6,000 miles. Both will start, but misfire constantly when driven, and the nearest dealer (about 75 miles away) has been unable to repair either one. It's embarrassing, to me, to see a scooter end up like this. I made the recommendations, and it was a disaster.
FWIW, it would be really helpful if motorcycles had OBD-2 diagnostic ports like all cars. But they don't! Believe me, if there was a real solution, one that actually worked, I'd be the most thankful rider in scooter-dom!
Your last paragraph has one statement that is incorrect: the EFI bikes by Kymco really DO have an OBD II-type port that connects to the "Kymco Analyzer Tool." This connector is a three pin affair that is easily missed. This connector and the tool (reader) will easily display many ECU parameters which OCCASIONALLY are the source of malfunctions. Most of the time, the problems with the EFI Kymcos are caused by stuck fuel tank vent valves, bad electrical connections, marginal batteries and failed charging systems, to name a few.
-
I can understand others being irritated with my take on Kymco fuel-injected machines, especially if your machine is reliable and predictable. I've had the misfortune of recommending Kymco 200s (Agility & Yager) to two friends and both machines have come to the end of useful life at less than 6,000 miles. Both will start, but misfire constantly when driven, and the nearest dealer (about 75 miles away) has been unable to repair either one. It's embarrassing, to me, to see a scooter end up like this. I made the recommendations, and it was a disaster.
Thanks for being honest. It surely helps to make informative decisions.
I can feel your embarrassment - have learned the same lesson the hard way myself.
Thanks again.
-
As an owner of a Kymco with 80,000km, it's probably caused by a bad wire or connection somewhere. Had plenty of electrical niggles in my DT300's lifetime but all repairable.
Other things you can you for misfiring is clean the MAF sensor, check the entire ignition circuit (e.g. kill switch, relays, spark plug boot, condenser, crankshaft position sensor) for corrosion or loose connections and fuel injector.
-
Update on the power loss issue, the dealer on the Gold Coast has checked everything including fuel system, electrical system and has temporarily put a new Like 200i exhaust system on my scooter which solved the issue. But a new genuine exhaust in Australia costs around $AU 1200 :o Apparently there is a catalytic converter in the exhaust!
Now we have to find a reasonable after market exhaust available in Australia.... or get what I can for it and buy a motorcycle
-
Update on the power loss issue, the dealer on the Gold Coast has checked everything including fuel system, electrical system and has temporarily put a new Like 200i exhaust system on my scooter which solved the issue. But a new genuine exhaust in Australia costs around $AU 1200 :o Apparently there is a catalytic converter in the exhaust!
Now we have to find a reasonable after market exhaust available in Australia.... or get what I can for it and buy a motorcycle
If legal in your country to use any means of transport without catalytic converters , you could consider removing the catalytic converter at the original exhaust. A blocked catalytic converter is most probably causing the problem.
Depending on the position of a possible Lamda sensor at the original exhaust, the scooter might still run perfectly without a catalytic converter - and without replacing a possible Lamda sensor with an aftermarket unit.
On my previous bike (Honda NC 700) the catalytic convertor has been removed and the engine ran perfectly without replacing or removing any sensors.
On my wife’s car (Ford Focus 2 Liter Trend) the catalytic convertor has been removed, but the Lamda censor had to be replaced with an aftermarket unit. The car’s engine ran perfectly without the catalytic convertor, but the Lamda censor is linked to the car’s automatic gearbox and the original Lamda sensor seriously affected the gearbox behavior just after the cat convertor was removed.
The cat on my Honda motorcycle has been removed fairly easy by myself. The catalytic box has been cut in half carefully with an angle grinder, and after the cat was removed the cat box has just been closed and the loose half of the cat box had been welded in place again.
Should you remove the catalytic converter, just don't throw it away. The converters are often made of platinium, and you might be able to sell it to a breaker yard at a good price.
-
you could consider removing the catalytic converter at the original exhaust. A blocked catalytic converter is most probably causing the problem.
OMG! With all due respect, I can't believe the suggestions this thread generates! This poor machine! Is this much different from my suggestion to simply scrap the machine and sell the engine to a Ruckus owner?
-
OMG! With all due respect, I can't believe the suggestions this thread generates! This poor machine! Is this much different from my suggestion to simply scrap the machine and sell the engine to a Ruckus owner?
H
I don’t understand what you mean by “this poor machine “ and “I can’t beleve what this thread generates” ?
Removing catylists is quite common across the globe, and you mean you are still not aware of it ?
If you are still not aware of it I must admit - I am quite surprised about the comments this thread generates as well.
Or are you involved in forum politics ?
-
There's no emissions testing to renew a vehicle registration in Australia, so I'm all for removing the cat.
-
This is the first malfunction I have heard caused by an exhaust cat converter! We all learned a new one!
Faced with a similar problem, I GUARANTEE the cat would be removed. 1200 AU is insane!
-
Update on the power loss issue, the dealer on the Gold Coast has checked everything including fuel system, electrical system and has temporarily put a new Like 200i exhaust system on my scooter which solved the issue. But a new genuine exhaust in Australia costs around $AU 1200 :o Apparently there is a catalytic converter in the exhaust!
Now we have to find a reasonable after market exhaust available in Australia.... or get what I can for it and buy a motorcycle
Thanks much for your update!!
I'm thinking a dealer wouldn't like to mess with removing an O2 sensor from your 5 yr old muffler. ...so he likely unplugged your O2 sensor and left it in your muffler when removing your ex. system.
Since a cat conv has no movable parts to wear out....perhaps a new O2 sensor (@$110 new, or less, used) would make your engine happy again?
Maybe have a careful look at your O2's wire and plug?
If all else fails cut that sucker with enough pipe left to fashion an ebay 'sport' exhaust on there !
Just sayin', I'd suspect the O2 sensor, before the cat.
Good luck.
Stig
New exhause w/o the cat. is @$260 in USA...but gotta be a wrecked LIke down there, somewhere
-
A clogged cat can indeed have a serious effect on engine performance.
In my wife’s car’s case my wife started mentioning the car “has less power”. New spark plugs and new air cleaner did not make any difference.
Then my wife started mentioning the engine “ battles to start”. At that stage I started thinking the engine was on it’s way out.
Next thing, the engine warning light came on. I then took the car to a local Ford dealer. They hooked the car to a diagnostic tool, and they told me the cat needs to be replaced. The price they quoted on a new cat was completely insane. When the guy realized I would never be prepared to pay that price he referred me to a local specialist who “remove cat converters on Ford cars quite often”.
Since removal and installing an aftermarket Lambda sensor the difference in engine performance is quite substantial. The difference in engine power made us realize the cat should have been removed long ago.
Due to the better performance on the car engine I decided to remove the cat on the Honda motorcycle as well. After removal I couldn’t find any difference in engine performance, because the cat on the Honda was still fairly new.
-
I am not sure where the cat converters are located on scooter exhausts ?
I could be wrong but I think it could be located inside the main exhaust ?
For what it's worth - the cat converter at the Honda was located inside a separate box close to the engine. My DIY cat removal can be seen at the photos below.
The stainless steel inserts which can be seen at the first photo was just to prevent possible noise levels due to the cat removal. I did not want the bike to become too noisy.
The second photo has been taken after everything have been welded in place again.
Sorry if this post cause more irritation.
-
A clogged cat can indeed have a serious effect on engine performance.
In my wife’s car’s case my wife started mentioning the car “has less power”. New spark plugs and new air cleaner did not make any difference.
Then my wife started mentioning the engine “ battles to start”. At that stage I started thinking the engine was on it’s way out.
Next thing, the engine warning light came on. I then took the car to a local Ford dealer. They hooked the car to a diagnostic tool, and they told me the cat needs to be replaced. The price they quoted on a new cat was completely insane. When the guy realized I would never be prepared to pay that price he referred me to a local specialist who “remove cat converters on Ford cars quite often”.
Since removal and installing an aftermarket Lambda sensor the difference in engine performance is quite substantial. The difference in engine power made us realize the cat should have been removed long ago.
Due to the better performance on the car engine I decided to remove the cat on the Honda motorcycle as well. After removal I couldn’t find any difference in engine performance, because the cat on the Honda was still fairly new.
I doubt that this scoot's cat. converter has clogged after just 5,779 miles.
But, ??.
Stig
-
Cat converters are expensive because they contain precious metals such as platinum and palladium.
-
Cat converters are expensive because they contain precious metals such as platinum and palladium.
I was a member of a jury, in court, for the trial of a guy who was driving around at night in his Jeep ripping cat converters out from under parked cars with a chain.
The case involved a destroyed Miata exhaust system. The jury foreman said that, since the recycling yard only pays about $50 for these converters - we need to find him guilty of a misdemeanor. One has to reach the $600 mark for it to be a felony.
I pointed out that the receipt to repair the man's exhaust system was $3200 at the dealer.
I argued that surely it is not the "hot", "street" price that determines the $$ amount of the theft - but the actual value of the item.
"Rob somebody of a $1,000 Rolex and get $20 on the street for it does not make it a $20 theft."
I told foreman , "you'll need to tell the bailiff to tell the judge to order us supper, and book rooms for the w/e because I'm not going to place the damages at less than $600."
The foreman caved, and we had dinner at home.
Stig
.
-
Just to clarify, the dealer thinks that the exhaust is blocked NOT the catalytic converter. I live near the beach and most metal rusts quickly.
Also he said that the sensor is required for the fuel injection computer? But where is the sensor? if I cut the exhaust pipe just before the exhaust box I can leave the sensor where it is, as I assume it is closer to the engine?
-
Just to clarify, the dealer thinks that the exhaust is blocked NOT the catalytic converter. I live near the beach and most metal rusts quickly.
Also he said that the sensor is required for the fuel injection computer? But where is the sensor? if I cut the exhaust pipe just before the exhaust box I can leave the sensor where it is, as I assume it is closer to the engine?
If the original exhaust is in your possession you can just look for an open threaded plug on the silencer itself, or an open threaded plug on the pipe somewhere between the silencer and the flange which bolts to the cylinder head.
The sensor might still be bolted to the plug, which obviously means the plug might not be open.
If the original exhaust is not in your possession, you could have a close look at the current exhaust mounted to the scooter.
If you cant find anything, I think there should be no reason to worry about a sensor - I think in such a case there is a possibility that the mechanic was thumb-sucking about a catalytic converter in the exhaust system.
My scooter (Agility 125) has an EGR system which control emissions in a different way. I think there is a possibility that your scooter also has an EGR system - instead of a catalytic converter.
I just Googled the subject, and had a quick look at Youtube videos as well. I could not find any evidence of scooters having catalytic converters.
Maybe you could have a look at the video below. Towards the end of the video it shows the components of an EGR system on a smaller scooter. The system on the video's slightly differs from the EGR system on my scooter - some of the components are located under my scooter’s floor panel.
If your scooter also has an EGR system - I think the EGR valve (bolted to the tappet cover) probably got stuck. In such a case the exhaust installed by the mechanic will probably only be a short term solution - the exhaust will get clogged again.
Like I mentioned - I think you should determine whether your scooter has an EGR system like this, instead of a catalytic converter:
http://youtu.be/ubUosWJUhM4 (http://youtu.be/ubUosWJUhM4)
-
So for a non mechanical person, from what I understand, my issue is a blocked silencer (the round thing at the end of the exhaust pipe next to the back wheel). So if I cut that off and replace it with a after market silencer it should fix my problem?
Also, I am assuming the sensor on the Like 200i is located closer to the engine, so by cutting the silencer off towards the rear of the scooter I should not have to replace it if I only replace the silencer.
Does anyone know of a reliable supplier of a silencer for a kymco like 200i that ships to Australia and am I right in thinking above?
Thank you in advance for all you mechanical mind people ;)
-
So for a non mechanical person, from what I understand, my issue is a blocked silencer (the round thing at the end of the exhaust pipe next to the back wheel). So if I cut that off and replace it with a after market silencer it should fix my problem?
Also, I am assuming the sensor on the Like 200i is located closer to the engine, so by cutting the silencer off towards the rear of the scooter I should not have to replace it if I only replace the silencer.
Does anyone know of a reliable supplier of a silencer for a kymco like 200i that ships to Australia and am I right in thinking above?
Thank you in advance for all you mechanical mind people ;)
I assume the original exhaust is not in you position therefore you are not able to find a sensor.
Regarding your first question - if you can’t find a sensor anywhere on the current exhaust (the one the mechanic gave you to use in the meanwhile) , between the front bracket which bolts to the cylinder head backwards to the “round thing”, as well as on the “round thing” itself, chances are very good that you will not experience problems if you just cut the pipe and install another silencer.
To my mind this means your scooter did not come with a sensor in the exhaust system which could have any effect on the ECU by any means.
Having said that - I think it is important to make sure whether you are able to find a sensor on the complete exhaust unit or not.
My reasoning for this, on my wife’s car the sensor is located on top of the cat box itself - if your mechanic was correct about a cat at the inside of the silencer (round thing) at the back, there is a possibility that the sensor will be mounted to the “round thing” itself. In such case cutting off the pipe and installing an aftermarket exhaust might cause problems.
Having said all this - I will be very surprised if a small scooter like yours came with a catalytic converter. It most probably came with an EGR system, which means the exhaust should not have any sensors anywhere.
Maybe you should visit the mechanic again, and ask him to show you where the sensor at the exhaust is located. I could be wrong, but I have a strong feeling he is not going to find a sensor anywhere.
In short , if you cant find a sensor anywhere - I would just cut the pipe and install an exhaust that fits.
-
Thank you for your reply and assistance, my scooter is still in pieces at the dealer, but I found out that there is a sensor closer to the motor itself, so as you say, if I cut the pipe near the silencer I should be OK, I just need to find a supplier which is not easy in Australia :-\
-
Like 200i has an O2 sensor in exhaust pipe between muffler and engine. The Like 200i has a closed-loop EFI system with that sensor regulating mixture. The catalytic converter is inside the muffler. I agree with Stig in a clogged cat in less than 6000 miles but also understand the possibility.
-
Like 200i has an O2 sensor in exhaust pipe between muffler and engine. The Like 200i has a closed-loop EFI system with that sensor regulating mixture. The catalytic converter is inside the muffler. I agree with Stig in a clogged cat in less than 6000 miles but also understand the possibility.
Thanks for clearing. I just had a look at a video regarding valve clearance settings on a 200i. By looking at the valve cover it became clear that the 200i’s do not have EGR valve housings connected to the valve covers - therefore it obviously comes with catalytic converters.
https://youtu.be/eipDXgGdh6o
Sorry about causing some confusion.
-
As the dealer tried a brand new exhaust that resolved the issue of a loss of power even after only 9500km I guess it has to be the issue.
I bought the manual for the like 200i today and it lists possible causes of a loss of power;
caved exhaust muffler
clogged exhaust muffler or exhaust muffler air leak
I also had to replace the drive belt at only 8500km so maybe my scooter was built on a Friday ;)
-
I can understand others being irritated with my take on Kymco fuel-injected machines, especially if your machine is reliable and predictable. I've had the misfortune of recommending Kymco 200s (Agility & Yager) to two friends and both machines have come to the end of useful life at less than 6,000 miles. Both will start, but misfire constantly when driven, and the nearest dealer (about 75 miles away) has been unable to repair either one. It's embarrassing, to me, to see a scooter end up like this. I made the recommendations, and it was a disaster.
FWIW, it would be really helpful if motorcycles had OBD-2 diagnostic ports like all cars. But they don't! Believe me, if there was a real solution, one that actually worked, I'd be the most thankful rider in scooter-dom!
Sorry about commenting again but maybe your two friends should have a close look at this thread ?
Who knows - maybe they might be sitting with exhaust problems as well ?
-
As the dealer tried a brand new exhaust that resolved the issue of a loss of power even after only 9500km I guess it has to be the issue.
I bought the manual for the like 200i today and it lists possible causes of a loss of power;
caved exhaust muffler
clogged exhaust muffler or exhaust muffler air leak
I also had to replace the drive belt at only 8500km so maybe my scooter was built on a Friday ;)
That's bad luck to have failed internals (or broken O2 sensor or wire) on your LIKE200i muffler. No fun being the first to report experiencing this.
Goodness knows I've been banging across the same bad patches of roadway for nearly 8 years on my LIKE with nothing shaken loose.
As for the belt - can't help there - I'm so fiddly with my scoot that when I go to look at stuff, I just pop a new one on. (which I did at @4,000miles) I consider the scooter belt to be THE critical part which I don't want to snap when accelerating across two lanes of approaching Buicks.
American price of the muffler unit is $260 but the thing is so heavy that the shipping would be a killer.
Surely there's a wrecked/donor LIKE within 50 miles?
Stig
-
Thank you everyone for your help, very much appreciated. I have learnt a lot with everyone's help especially Stig. Bought a manual to get my head around how the 200i hangs together.
I have spent 5 days exploring every option online (eBay, Amazon etc etc) and local motorcycle wreckers, but sadly to no avail. There were some universal cheap flimsy mufflers that were not worth the effort.
In the end the dealer beat the price down from Kymco to $AU750, almost half price, which is a similar price to an after market from Europe or Asia by the time you add freight. Australia is a loooog way from anywhere and $US 1 = $AU .67 putting us well and truly behind the eight ball.
With 8 people with corona virus in my hospital there are fortunately for me, a lot of extra shifts going that will help me pay this one off. No rest for the wicked!
I did explore some electric motorcycles and there are some good ones coming out. I will go down that path for my next purchase. Less maintenance/moving parts to go wrong. There is a Super Soco TC Max that does 95km/h (about 60m/h) that will be released in Australia this year.
-
I was a member of a jury, in court, for the trial of a guy who was driving around at night in his Jeep ripping cat converters out from under parked cars with a chain.
The case involved a destroyed Miata exhaust system. The jury foreman said that, since the recycling yard only pays about $50 for these converters - we need to find him guilty of a misdemeanor. One has to reach the $600 mark for it to be a felony.
I pointed out that the receipt to repair the man's exhaust system was $3200 at the dealer.
I argued that surely it is not the "hot", "street" price that determines the $$ amount of the theft - but the actual value of the item.
"Rob somebody of a $1,000 Rolex and get $20 on the street for it does not make it a $20 theft."
I told foreman , "you'll need to tell the bailiff to tell the judge to order us supper, and book rooms for the w/e because I'm not going to place the damages at less than $600."
The foreman caved, and we had dinner at home.
Stig
.
You were so right Stig! It's a crime problem here in the UK as well classified as theft and / or criminal damage. Unfortunately a first offence rarely carries a custodial sentence!
-
Who knows - maybe they might be sitting with exhaust problems as well ?
These are new 4-stroke machines, not 2-strokes. This is not a muffler problem, it's a "diagnostics" problem. I'd like to thank everybody, but guessing at solutions isn't helpful.
-
I understand the machine is a the "dealer" and his techs are doing the diagnosis. That does not seem to be going well or quickly which is no surprise. Since the essence of trouble shooting is considering the effected systems, how they work and both ruling out relevant possibilities and eventually finding the cause.
This is, to my recollection, the first time this kind of problem has arisen with any of these machines. I am also willing to bet some symptoms have been missed.
This will require extreme patience from all.....
-
These are new 4-stroke machines, not 2-strokes. This is not a muffler problem, it's a "diagnostics" problem. I'd like to thank everybody, but guessing at solutions isn't helpful.
Firstly, you passed comments on a thread which is all about 4 stroke engines - not 2 stroke engines. I could be wrong but I it looks like you do not seem to understand that according to the mechanic this is a muffler problem on a four stroke engine ? Similar to the engines on your friend’s scooters ? This is the exact reason why I guessed your friends might have a similar problem.
In this case it looks like even the professional mechanic or mechanics were guessing by times. To my understanding the owner asked for help at this forum, therefore some of us started guessing.
I personally learned a lot about scooters just by reading comments from members who started guessing about possible solutions. Even when certain “guesses” are not applicable on a spesific problem, it always make sense to try to remember what advice were given.
By times advice that was not applicable for a specific problem, help others to solve problems. To my mind forums will serve no purpose and members will loose interest if other members are not guessing about possible solutions.
As far as I am concerned - thanks to everyone for “guessing” about possible solutions all over this forum. It surely helped me to learn a lot.
-
Yeah, will put collapsed exhaust internals, possible broken O2 cable/plug/sensor/? into my thoughts when next a LIKE200i owner mentions trouble with power loss. Even at such low mileage.
Who knew?
IF it was due to collapsed exhaust internals - wonder if one could feel something 'not right' at the tail pipe?
Stig