KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 125 to 300 => Downtown 300 => Topic started by: wbdvt on October 28, 2019, 10:34:07 PM
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I bought this 2012 DT200 in August with about 5900 miles on it and due to travel in Sept only put about 1000 miles on it. It recently started to stall out. I could start it and it would run for about 30 sec and stall. It was then hard to start. Would crank but not catch and would have to throttle slightly to get it to start. Once warmed up it seemed fine.
I am adjusting the valves as the manual says to adjust at 6000 miles. I am hoping this is the issue as the exhaust valves are very tight. In order to determine TDC, there is a small plug on top of the fan housing that needs to be removed in addition to the large plug. This small plug reveals a part with looks like magnets on it and there is a marking that is T which lines up with a slot on the threads for the cap. The socket size to turn the engine is 19mm. Thought I would pass the pics along as this is a little different than the info I have seen primarily on other Kymco models.
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Too tight not good. That "T" only tells top dead center. The cam sprocket as a hole or circle that should appear above the head flange when the two Allen heads are alligned like in your picture. Sounds like your starting problem could be either a loose sparkplug cap or stuck vent valve for the gas tank.
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Well that T lines up with a marker and then the 2 allen bolts are parallel to the case as in the pics above. There is a circled punched above the allen bolt and circled in this pic but that is 180 deg from where the T lines up with the slot in the case. So where is TDC?
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OK, the "T" in the window tells you are at one of the two TDC's possible on that 4-stroke engine, the circle you have circled in red (that I still can't see!) tells you you are 1. TDC of compression stroke and 2. In the right place to adjust the valves. Done good!
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Hi here is a better pic of the circle near the allen bolt. This is 180 deg from the position where I see T in the other window.
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Great picture! You are in the correct position to adjust the valves! Wish I could take pictures like Stig and you and...welll....just about everyone else!
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Finally got around to actually doing the valve adjustments. I also did some other items such as replacing the spark plug and testing the voltage regulator. The VR was barely putting out 13V so I have ordered a replacement.
With everything back together, the scoot started up and idled fine. No cutting out/dying like before. Seems like the valve adjustment did the trick. The exhaust valves were tight.
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Very good! Thank you for the follow up! These are most valuable to see what logic/faulty logic was used and the result. You were on the right track. There is one other thing that plagues all models, all brands and that is "The Stall of Shame" caused by sticky vacuum operated gas tank vent valves. Quickly open the gas cap if your idle gets to surging, gets weird, quits or engine loses power. The vent valve is sticking if the problem goes away after opening the cap.
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Thanks Karl. One question on quickly opening the gas cap if my idle is surging. I am assuming that this done after shutting the engine down as the key is needed to open the gas cap. And that is the weirdest gas cap I have ever seen.
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wbdvt, when you say "tight", what was the measurement (of the exhaust valve)?
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Thanks Karl. One question on quickly opening the gas cap if my idle is surging. I am assuming that this done after shutting the engine down as the key is needed to open the gas cap. And that is the weirdest gas cap I have ever seen.
Yes, that is quick enough. You will know on start up. Or carry your spare key if you have one.
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Ok, it was 48 deg and sunny roads mostly dry no sand, so test ride after valve adjustment. Ran beautifully! Definitely the issue was the valves, particularly since the exhaust ones were very tight, couldn't get the feeler gauge in.