KymcoForum.com
General => Technical | How To => Topic started by: dwarf8 on July 10, 2019, 05:14:39 PM
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I have a new to me Like 200i with just under 10K on her.
I went to get the safety done and there is significant play in the rear wheel.
With the everything removed except the wheel itself there is still play between the wheel the splined shaft.
Any advice or ideas welcome.
Ian in Ottawa
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After examining the parts I came to the conclusion that the last person to tighten the wheel did not do so fully.
I cleaned and greased everything then assembled and torqued the wheel nut to the correct value (120 N-M!) by having a person stand on the bike as I tightened it.
It felt right so I reassembled the rest of the bike.
Everything seems fine after a test run of about 10kms.
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Good! Nice follow-up! Always helps to re-assemble things correctly!
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My Agility 125 does’nt have a wobble at the rear wheel, but also have a slight play on between the rim- and shaft splines. When I move the wheel backwards and forwards I can hear a slight clacking sound, but there is no up and down or sideways movement.
I have no idea what the torque setting is suppose to be, but to my mind 120 NM is a complete “overkill†on an application like this. There is no way how the nut will come loose with a much lower NM setting. I think the manufacturer should rather have made a better effort to make the splines on the rim and shaft fit properly.
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After examining the parts I came to the conclusion that the last person to tighten the wheel did not do so fully.
I cleaned and greased everything then assembled and torqued the wheel nut to the correct value (120 N-M!) by having a person stand on the bike as I tightened it.
It felt right so I reassembled the rest of the bike.
Everything seems fine after a test run of about 10kms.
Thanks for the "fixed" post!
Stig
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My Agility 125 does’nt have a wobble at the rear wheel, but also have a slight play on between the rim- and shaft splines. When I move the wheel backwards and forwards I can hear a slight clacking sound, but there is no up and down or sideways movement.
I have no idea what the torque setting is suppose to be, but to my mind 120 NM is a complete “overkill†on an application like this. There is no way how the nut will come loose with a much lower NM setting. I think the manufacturer should rather have made a better effort to make the splines on the rim and shaft fit properly.
I think what you are hearing is gear "backlash" the clearance between gearteeth. I have noticed this on all the Kymcos in this family as well as a Yamaha Vino and a Genuine Buddy 150.
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My Agility 125 does’nt have a wobble at the rear wheel, but also have a slight play on between the rim- and shaft splines. When I move the wheel backwards and forwards I can hear a slight clacking sound, but there is no up and down or sideways movement.
I have no idea what the torque setting is suppose to be, but to my mind 120 NM is a complete “overkill†on an application like this. There is no way how the nut will come loose with a much lower NM setting. I think the manufacturer should rather have made a better effort to make the splines on the rim and shaft fit properly.
Howdy, ScooterFan.
Yes, 120 NM is massive overload but I looked at the parts and they will support it. Nice chunky bits in there...
Those sloppy tolerances on the splines at least means the wheel will come off one night in the pouring rain half way between Nowhere and downtown ImLostAgain. :)
Ian in Ottawa
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Howdy, ScooterFan.
Yes, 120 NM is massive overload but I looked at the parts and they will support it. Nice chunky bits in there...
Those sloppy tolerances on the splines at least means the wheel will come off one night in the pouring rain half way between Nowhere and downtown ImLostAgain. :)
Ian in Ottawa
I liken the LIKE's axle nut to the "Jesus Nut"….the retaining nut which holds the rotor to the mast of the UH-1 Iroquois helicopter. Checked in pre-flights by the crew, "....if this comes off - we're all going to meet Jesus."
120 N-m is the correct torque for the LIKE's axle nut, per the service manual.
Probably best practice to use a manual - not opinions - said the astronaut sitting atop the Atlas 5.
Stig
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Howdy, ScooterFan.
Yes, 120 NM is massive overload but I looked at the parts and they will support it. Nice chunky bits in there...
Those sloppy tolerances on the splines at least means the wheel will come off one night in the pouring rain half way between Nowhere and downtown ImLostAgain. :)
Ian in Ottawa
I had to replace my scoot's rear tyre some time ago and when I tried to remove the wheel I actually started swearing like a sailor during my attempts to loosen the nut. Eventually had to call in my wife to help holding the scooter while I battled with the nut. My wife is quite small, got worried that she might drop the scooter during my attempts to loosen the nut. I eventually had to promise her I will stop swearing, and had to beg her just to carry on holding the scooter.
I eventually just smeared a layer of copper grease on the splines, put the rim back in place, and tightened the nut according to common sense. Due to the splines the rim can not spin freely on the shaft - and there is no way how the nut can wiggle itself loose with my lower torque setting at the nut. The layer of grease between the splines has eliminated the slight clacking noise between the the shafts completely. I think the grease should also prevent any possible wear on the splines.
The lower torque setting at the nut just makes things more practical, so chances are almost zero that I will use the manufacturer's specs in future.
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I forgot to mention - even with the initial extreme torque on that nut on my scooter, the rim was a little loose on the shaft - therefore the clacking noise, and the slight backward / forward movement of the rim on the shaft.
Right or wrong - to my mind the rim and shaft splines are a slight mismatch, and the manufacturer tried to solve the issue with extreme torque settings on the nut.