KymcoForum.com
Scooters - Big Bore => Xciting 500 => Topic started by: ptingib on May 31, 2019, 08:09:04 PM
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Hi my 2008 kymco xciting 500cc instruments dials no longer work and for some reason the mobile phone red light (which ive never seen), battery light and petrol yellow light are on.
Over the last month or so the speedometer has been switching itself on and off and this has got progressively worse until the dials no longer seem to be operational.
Im thinking its either an electrical issue or its a result of all the speed bumps (traffic calming measures) that we have in our town which I seem to hit hard all the time as the roads are light glass here in southern spain and without ABS is very easy to lose the front end.
Please can someone give me some advice, I wanted to use the scooter for a road trip around spain but its looking very bad. I live in the country in a small town and the nearest kymco garage is too far to travel too.
PLEASE ANY ADVICE WILL BE GRATEFULLY APPRECIATED. Believe it or not the kymco is my primary transport as I commute to the work so cut through the traffic, Im using the family car which my wife needs for the kids.
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What is the condition of your battery? How old is it? Have you loadtested it? What were the results?
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Bad electrical connections or grounding can often cause strange things to happen. My next major purchase will be a new speedometer ($193.00). The LCD odometer and clock don't work right anymore. It's nothing serious, but I like things to work right.
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I've seen something as simple as loose battery cables, at the post or the frame ground point, cause really weird stuff with the dash instruments.
Easy to check.
Stig
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Hi everyone Its extremely hot here in southern spain and we are actually only 5 miles 7km from Africa. I seem to go through batteries every year and my last one is only 4 months old. The engine is running perfect. But i need the instrument panels. In Europe vehicles are inspected every year or 2 do doing nothing is not an option. Ive got some free time next week so will start to dismantle th bike and have a look at everything.
Ill check all the connections and clean everything. i really need the bike to be working as in july i need it for a long road trip. Thanks for the advice and please do keep pointing me in the right way on how yo fix this.
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The battery light being on might indicate a low battery, and a problem with the charging circuit. Connect a voltmeter across the battery with the engine running above idle and ensure the charging voltage reads above 13 volts. If it doesn't, then you'll have to troubleshoot the battery and charging system. Of course, look for loose connections first.
If the charging voltage is OK, I would check the fuses. There is one that primarily provides power to the instrument panel. If I remember correctly, the fuses are located to the left of the battery. Use a meter to do the check. You can find generalized instructions for checking fuses on Youtube.
If you need a mechanic, you don't need a Kymco garage specifically. Any competent motorcycle or scooter mechanic should be able to handle the problem for you.
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Many thanks for your help, ill be free later on this week and will have alot of time to dedicate to this problem. I have to get this scooter working again!!!!!!
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Hi Ive started the investigation of the issue i have with my kymco. I took out and cleaned the starter relay and checked the 30amp green fuse is ok. everything is ok and i reinstalled the battery and i still have the issue.
i read that the ground may be an issue, where can i find cables that are the ground clables ib the frame of the bike. Im going to take off the front end today when it cools down, but i dont really know what im looking for.
just out of interest does anyone know how to test the starter relay?????
thanks in advance???
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Wiring diagram indicates top right heavy wire ground point for battery and starter. That will be machine right on the frame, not real sure, between seat latch and starter locations. I have seen itafter rear body is removed. Just not REAL sure of EXACT location. The second ground point has three wires, two green, one brown with green tracer and should be up front near the ECU. You will see it when you get the front off.
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Thank Crossbolt, thats very useful unfortunately it did not make any sense. Im sure other will understand but from your instructions I cant locate the ground. Any chance of a dummies guide instructions or better still photos or a diagram????
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I have seen some thick ground wires under the seat bucket on my 500.
Where the regulator is mounted.
Also,I will bet there will be a spot beyond the dash where numerous black wires converge.
If not then follow the thick bunch of wires from behind the dash, the ones that connect into the dash, a fitting similar to the one that plugs into a computer motherboard
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so is it a case of following the cable from the top to the bottom. the bottom being here it should be connected to the frame and thus becoming the earth. does an earth cable mean its literally screwed to the frame??? as we know there is alot of Spare switches and plugs. I know that one at the front is to do with ABS which my bike does not have. Im not sure why there are so many spare plugs. i will try to hook up the instrument panel today and take a photo to show everyone. Many thanks as always for your help, I really nned the scooter to ride to Pamplona for the annual festival and have less than 4 weeks to work out a solution. (I need weeks for delivery of parts)
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Are we talking, "Running of the Bulls" festival in Spain?!
Cool!
Hope you get it sorted.
Take photos please of you and your scooter there!
Stig
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yep, you have it right;screwed to the frame.
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yes i did it when i left university as a poor ex student but that was 1998, im going back as Im heading for middle age and I now live in spain. its my 21 anniversary for the run and instead of travelling in a VW camper van from england ill be riding up from andalusia on my beloved kymco which now has 55000 km. I need to get her back on the road as this may be her last long trip. Ill continue working on it tomorrow. Im a married father of two so these type of adventures that i use to do ALL the time never happen anymore.
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Hi all, ive had another look at the bike this morning trying to locate the earth and any problems with the connections but have been unsuccessful. I've attached photos of my issue with the strange warning lights and the fuel empty light on with none of the dials working. Please please please if anyone can offer some more advice on what I should do it would be much appreciated.
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pics
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hi these are the wires that i can see.
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If I recollect, there is a big earth wire from the starter motor, towards the rear of the engine.
the photos you posted, the third one, the regulator with earth wire connection is right there where you stood to take that photo, behind the painted plastic bodywork.
You have to remove a lot of plastic to get to it.
Starting with the metallic silver plastic part around the rear footpeg, and is clipped and screwed into the footwell(it is only there to look pretty) ,it has two screws each side. Once unscrewed, you manouver it out from the front, there are two big plastic clips by the front screw.
Then work the two big clips at the rear, in order to lift it up and out over the footpeg.
Once they are out the way, now you can work on the painted plastic under the the foot well.
Could be 8 screws each side, and another two under the from wheel arch.
You pull it from the rear, there is a clip, then you can peal it away from the rear moving forward.
You can leave the fairing on, as you dislodge it from the fairing, like a puzzle piece at that point.
Ok, now the foot well, 4 or 6 x 10mm bolts, and you unclip it from the front. it is flexible, so you won't break it.
Now you can get to the long bolt holding the front of the painted body (if that bolt was visible earlier, you would still have to remove all the plastic because the foot well blocks that part of the side painted body).
Pull it away from the front side to get access to the regulator and the earth wires.
This is from memory, as I have done it many many many many many times, lol.
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thank you very much for the advice, im going to have to have another look at it tomorrow morning before work. As you know it is like a jigsaw and it takes ages by yourself. I also seem to loose alot of nuts and screws when im on the pavement outside my house. thank you again and will update asap. i love my kymco the best maxi scooter ive ever had. much better build quality of my gilera and aprilia from years ago.
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Yep, This 500 is a great machine. Mine is almost ready to ride again as it is in the workshop.
The first time took me hour and a half, but now, I can do it in 15 min. So will you with practise.
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i love this scooter my only complaint is that its a real issue starting from cold in the winter. I live 10 km from AFRICA and its currently 35 c degrees (centigrade) very hot but in winter i can dip to zero (centigrade) and the bike will not start until the sun warms it up. I read on the forum this is why they discontinued the 500cc. Id love the new ak550 but it costs as much as a car here in Europe. and to be honest Id have to pick the Yamaha or a Honda DCT. Im pleased kymco are building better scooters but they cant charge premium prices as they unfortunately they are no where near japanese quality. my scoot has done 55,000km and ive been fixing it since 20,000km. I also ride in the mountain near ronda and the single motor does not like altitude at all been up to 3000m and it could not go over 5,000 rpm. Even the 250cc motorbikes over take !!!!
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yep, that cold start problem. I have a gel battery with higher CCA, and that has helped. To fix that cold start problem I replaced regulator, Starter, solenoid, and the alternator(or whatever they call that on a bike).
If you can park it inside a garage, then that first morning start won't be so bad.
I also used to have a trickle charger running every night, but I find I don't need it anymore, since I got the gell battery.
I cant comment on high altitude riding, but mine is the AFI model (no carburettor).
I would have thought that the computer would compensate for the thin air.
How is uphill ridings, hills that are in town, and not on mountain ranges?
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up hill on a normal road its great, the twisties and mountain road its crap as the single cylinder just cant keep up with geared bikes or even the twin tmax. will crack on with working on the bike tomorrow. i have 2 weeks to sort this out.
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hi all Im still having a nightmare with the bike. I've removed as much a i can but will have to refer to the workshop manual to get the final white piece of fairing off an ive seem to have taken off all the visible bolts/screws but its still fixed so,somewhere and is not moving.
Even if/when I get it off Im not 100% sure what ill be going after that except checking cables and ensuring that everything is secured and connected correctly. I have also noticed that the registration light at the back does not work so ill be replacing the bulb on that I know that this could not be the cause of the issue as i have the entire front end disconnected and the warning lights on the instrument panel are the same AND the bike fires up correctly as well.
As I mentioned before the irony is that with the oil change and mini service the bike is running like a dream, if it was not for the instrument panels not working the bike would be perfect.
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The big deal on connectivity, as I am sure you are aware, that just because a connection looks good, means nothing! Ground points especially. You have to disconnect each one to clean each lug and the stud on the frame. Use silcone dielectric grease on each lug and stud before reconnecting. Unplug each connector (ALL OF THEM!) and apply that grease to the female ends. That way the male gets greased on reconnection. You already did the hard part! You got most of the Kymco "Tupperware" off! No instructions that make sense are in the service manuals!
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Hi Ive never heard of silcone dielectric grease, so it will be very interesting trying to get some here in Spain.!!! will go the shops on Monday to see whats available. noting is open on sunday here in Andalusia.
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That silicone dielectric grease is an auto parts store item in the states. Don't know where in Spain. But hey! The country that can Montesa and Bultaco got to have it somewhere!
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hi all i spent a couple of hours on the scooter this morning. I located main earth cable by finding it on the owners manual. I disconnected, cleaned the area and cable and re fitted it with no change or improvements. Apart from buying and applying the silicone paste on all connections im rapidly running out of ideas on how to solve my problem. If there are any alternative solutions to my instrument display problem please do let me know. many thanks in advance for any help. im getting desperate as im running out of possible solution's and its feels like there is no light at the end of the tunnel.
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I think there are two gounding points: one on the frame, machine right forward of reg-rect. and one up front. This based on the idea of how Kymco does things with similar types of models. That silicone paste is definitely in order as the next step after the second ground point. Don't give up now! You got all the panels off!
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Hi thanks for the advice and letting me know about the second ground point. I will continue to work on the bike as i need it fixing and have it in pieces at the moment. Due to its age etc its not worth sending it to a mechanic and the labor charges alone will be more than the value. I am surprised that this issue of the mobile phone and battery light and empty fuel light with non of the dials working has not been covered before and is shown on the Internet. Im sure this must be a very common problem or maybe that most bikes never reach over 10 years old with 55,000 km. i will try to buy the silicone dielectric grease tomorrow. I take it that once i have it i should desperate every connection and plud and apply the grease to the connections. is that correct??
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You have it right! Restate for clarity, unplug EVERY connector on the bike regardless of system, goober (apply liberal amount) of the grease to the female sections of every contact in the connector. That will ensure the male prongs are coated when reconnected.
It is a common problem in older machines. It just surfaces as a cry to help fix one problem at a time. This silicone dielectric grease idea was something I saw while working on a mid-1999 Ford chassis motorhome system:every connector was smeared with this stuff! I have used this stuff on every Kymco I ever owned thinking it was a good preventive measure.
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Hi all, I went to my local auto store and there was a dielectric spray that cleans and protects electrical points. I bought this as it the only thing available and i went through all the connections, cables and cable ends and used the spray on these parts. Unfortunately it did not make any difference to the situation. I've googled the issue and it seems to be a fairly common issue however have not found a workable solution. On other posts they have advised to change the fuses (which I have done even though they are OK) they also seem to think it something to do with the positive wire that somehow has come loose or disconnected. Im a little confused as there is only one positive lead that runs to the positive end of the battery and or seems to be ok.
Please any more thought or solution's o this very irritating problem, as Im rapidly running out of possible solutions and need the bike for the first week in JULY. Many thanks as always for any help or wisdom you may share will me.
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Then I suspect it is a wire to terminal lug interruption. The connection at the crimp. Yeah! I'm serious! Every one....
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I'm starting to think you need a new speedometer assembly. Maybe something's gone haywire within the panel. You live in a very hot climate, and that may have an effect on electronic devices. My LCD odometer and clock are shot after 10 years and 15,000 miles in the desert.
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Hi with regard to your quote "Then I suspect it is a wire to terminal lug interruption. The connection at the crimp. Yeah! I'm serious! Every one...." honestly i dont know what you mean, could you translate to a basic level, ive never heard of "connection at the crimp" and im not sure what "wire to the terminal lug interruption".
We do obviously have very hot summers and today its 34 and its just the beginning of June. Also i live in a very humid little town in the middle of national park surrounded by large hills so in the winter it can drop to zero (centigrade or even below freezing point).
We also have here what we call in england sleeping policemen or road bumps, some are very extreme and can be a huge impact to the scooter. I do take the at a higher speed than what i do in the car because for the longer ones I can actually use it as sort of ramp and its fun to get some "air". (please dont think I use my scooter as an xgames freestyle bike) the worse however are the smallest road bumps which are an instant hard impact. I also pick up the children from school if only one goes in for that day and thus can park right outside the door and can scoot home without joining the huge queue of parents picking up their children. Im 90kg and the children are around 30/40 kg now that they are young teens, sorry its been 30 years since we switched from imperial "pounds" and now are metric especially as we live in Spain.
Our roads are as smooth as glass i have locked my front wheels many times and so i back brake as much as i can as ive ended up in the barriers and off the road many times as grip is practically non existent. we get so little rain (over 310 days of sunshine) that the roads are completely different to the ones in the United Kingdom.
Due to work commitment Ive not had much time to continue with the resurrection of the kymco however i will dedicate as much time as i can this weekend.
Please please continue with the advice its so appreciated and as this is the only english speaking Kymco forum its become my only source of information. Many thanks to everyone for thier continued support.
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What I was referring is each terminal metal fitting at the end of each wire. The metal fitting is bent around the wire and insulation in what is called a "crimp." That junction can corrode out of sight and interrupt that circuit. Common in older machines/high mileage (high "kilometerage?") and can be very difficult to find. I agree with BigBlue505 that it may be the instrument cluster but the wire/terminal lug corrosion is more common. Replacing the fitting is easier IF the fitting can be duplicated. The recommended approach is to parallel a separate wire with the suspect wire to see if the symptom goes away. Most people would just junk the whole bike or rewire it or replace the whole harness rather than actually work to find out what the cause is. My bet is that you will work to fix it.
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Yep, it's much cheaper to check the battery and all the wiring before you buy any expensive parts. I live in a very dry climate, so I usually don't have much corrosion or wiring harness problems. That meter costs about $193 US. If that's your only problem with the scooter and you get good power to your lights and all, I'll bet it's the meter. Can you make the trip without the speedometer or do you have to get the scooter inspected before the trip? A GPS speedometer app might be a solution.
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hi all im not got much further except i hooked up the battery again and although it says 12.9 when recharging when its connected to the bike and has fired up its only 7 or 8 volts on a cheap multi-meter. ive also have not managed to get the last piece of white plastic off. all the screws are off and i almost dismantled the rear lignt but the white fairing covering the regulator rectifier will not come off.
im getting very disheartened as i need the scoot for a trip next week but thats not going to happen. im starting to really hate my beloved scooter.
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So, not the regulator then? Or the alternator? That is quite a drop in voltage. Maybe the battery has had it.
If you take it to a battery place, they will put a load on it, and can tell you if the battery is healthy or not.
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When the bike is running the voltage should go up to a low/mid 13, as far as I know. Regulators are cheap enough on ebay.
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Was thee ever any conclusion to this. I am having the same issue with my Xciting 500.
https://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=30825.0
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Was thee ever any conclusion to this. I am having the same issue with my Xciting 500.
https://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=30825.0
You may want to start a new thread on this since this one is over two years old!