KymcoForum.com
General => Technical | How To => Topic started by: Viper254 on April 12, 2018, 01:54:55 PM
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27/04/2018 - I've started archiving the project on an external page, to help me keep it better organised; chronological updates will of course still be provided here! http://deliverscoot.com/kymcolike200i (http://deliverscoot.com/kymcolike200i)
Hi!
I've needed somewhere to write a minor project thread, and this seems to be the most appropriate forum; please move the topic if I've got that wrong!
Last time I did an overhaul on a scooter, I didn't provide enough information, take enough pictures or record enough videos, and that's something I'm very keen to rectify this time around.
My Like 200i is back from the MOT (UK safety check) shop, with a reasonable bill of health. However, I'm off on a 2500 mile tour in June and want the bike sorted and ready to go. Unlike my previous ride, as this one didn't cost much, I'm not too worried about drilling holes in it and the like. So, with that in mind, here's the to-do list;
Mechanical/Frame/Suspension
- Valve adjustment, inspect tappets and valves for undue wear
- Check clutch condition (currently a bit "snaggy") and re-set idle which is currently too high
- Replace rollers with the slider pieces type (generic) and new variator bushes (do you call them sliders?) from Dr. Pulley
- Change gear oil
- Centrestand and mounts - remove, clean, paint, grease, reassemble
- Front wheel - remove, replace front bearings, regrease and reassemble
Speedo drive - remove, clean, grease, check cable condition In progress - all a bit rusty inside so stripped out and awaiting new grease and reassembly- Remove forks to check and grease head bearings if required (I hate head bearings)
- Forks - check and clean seals, change oil, install gaitors if possible
- Exhaust mount (axle) bracket - remove, clean, replace bearing, paint, reassemble Deemed unnecessary for now - may remove anyway to see if shock can be greased
- Exhaust - remove, de-rust, remove and copper grease LAMBDA sensor threads, paint with VHT paint, reinstall In progress - LAMBDA sensor came free (hooray) but require other steps to be completed before I can reassemble, as the exhaust has been patched up with repair putty, sanded and repainted.
- Rear shocks - remove, clean, grease (they squeak like nothing else!)
Electrical/Accessories
- Install mini fuse box under front panel and aux loom so everying can be easily removed and returned to standard.
- Horn - swap for two-tone ones that sound like a van so I can scare anybody I desire to
- Install USB charger into glove box
- Install direct-to-battery marine 12v socket near battery tray so I can trickle charge from the 12v socket from my shed's solar panel when it's parked up. Need a much bigger drill bit!
- Install 12v marine power socket outside of glove box, higher up.
- Install modified hand guards with integrated LED indicators to supplement standard turn signals In progress - handguards are being modified but need to be fitted and wired in.
- Install elderly heated grips pinched from my old bike, installing the controller in the glove box to help it live longer
- Add LED tail/turn lamp to underside of luggage rack in addition to standard tail/stop lamp In progress - need to make up a bracket and install cable gland above rear light for it to be permanently connected in
- Install additional DRL side lights on the front, switched seperately from standard lights In progress - foam pads have been located to front panel but I can't work out how to get the big panel off - sunny day job for wiring everything up.
- Make a bracket for a front flood and spot lights, install it without making everything look terrible
Pictures of the bike in it's current state (which isn't bad by any means) to follow, with additional pictures added for each task completed as I go along, with write ups.
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;D I am looking forward to seeing your scooter and the work you do to it, will be very interesting.
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Thanks!
Here is what I'm working with.
(https://s31.postimg.cc/mwrpyonyj/Image002_kindlephoto-87614724.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s31.postimg.cc/k2okldqyz/Image003.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s31.postimg.cc/ks7cxtjtn/Image004_kindlephoto-87552498.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s31.postimg.cc/a6nhllnq3/Image005.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Bits and bobs today! Fitting a couple of switches, one of which will isolate the the heated grips, and the other will isolate the DRLs from the side lights, whoopee!
These are the switches used;
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LED-illuminated-Round-12V-3pin-On-Off-Rocker-Switch-Waterproof-Auto-Boat-SPST/32805273639.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.UyK6NB (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LED-illuminated-Round-12V-3pin-On-Off-Rocker-Switch-Waterproof-Auto-Boat-SPST/32805273639.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.UyK6NB)
Used a 20mm drill bit, on the left side of the upper legshield to insert.
Here's a quick walkthrough of putting the switches in;
! No longer available (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B4gbiSkmSxE#)
And then we turned to the DRLs at the front of the bike. That will follow a bit later...
Worked out how to embed Youtube vids!
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This should be good!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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So, quite the day today. Removed the front wheel, and, whilst waiting for some penetrating spray to release seized screws on the mudguard, I started looking at the rear pillion handles, and whether it'd be possible to fashion a pannier-supporting rail so the bike's ready for touring. I got a little carried away.
Supplies and Tools Used:
- Bit of metal strapping I found in the alleyway behind the house, origin unknown
- 2x spacers - one probably an engine dowel, the other of unknown origin
- 2x M6 allen bolts
- Drill with 6.5mm bit
- Junior hacksaw
- 2x crush washers, washers, M6 nuts
A video speaks a thousand words, but there's also images below;
https://youtu.be/VDPu3DIlOXk (https://youtu.be/VDPu3DIlOXk)
[url=https://postimages.org/](https://s31.postimg.cc/kru2z73vf/boltsused.png) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VDPu3DIlOXk#ws)
(https://s31.postimg.cc/lu49hr24b/Handle_Install.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s31.postimg.cc/jcsiajndn/handleabove.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s31.postimg.cc/ft6kkqcy3/handleangle.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s31.postimg.cc/r5j62j8sb/higher_bolt.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s31.postimg.cc/8d7ayyk3v/lower_bolt.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Some more progress today, and pictures to show. I did take some with Meg's SLR, but haven't got hold of them yet!
As the front wheel's currently off the scooter pending a new front tyre (please hurry up, post man) I thought this would be a good time to get the exhaust off, cleaned up and painted whilst the weather's still hot.
Removing the exhaust, however, has meant finding a couple of hidden horrors. The exhaust is actually not in great shape.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/84mtgtcyb/IMG_20180421_170101.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/iep8g22tr/)
However, getting it off meant I was able to take a look at the mounting bracket and re-insert bolts using copper grease. Happily, nearly every bolt for removing the exhaust, rear calliper and bracket has a 12mm head, which is a nice bit of design. The bracket behind was actually in excellent condition, so I've shelved plans to re-paint that one for now.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/6pl8s59b7/toothbrush.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/6pl8s59b3/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/r9q2qjwr7/copper_slip.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/4l0vqzfdb/)
The other horrible realisation is that the pins for the calliper are seized solid, though the pads have a huge amount of wear left in them. So, I've applied penetrating spray and a hefty helping of hope that I'll be able to move them at a later point.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/5nb29ly7n/rear_calliper_seized.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/4xs9x8xnz/)
Anyway, back to the exhaust, which actually has a few holes in the side that faces inwards towards the wheel. Unfortunately, the bracket that supports the rear hugger has also given up.
It was time to sand the exhaust down, remove any loose flaky parts and make repairs with an exhaust putty where possible.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/e5kidu9ub/exhaust_rust.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/viussp55b/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/5ajo3e5n7/repair_putty.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/mntyi90y7/)
We'll have to come up with a new solution for the broken off hanger. I can't weld :(
(https://s19.postimg.cc/6ctulte4z/Hanger_snapped.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/8he7mwfrj/)
So, in the background I've also been working on the luggage rack support bracket, which has been removed; again, 12mm bolts; and the two pannier rails I made earlier in the week. One's a bit more straight that the other, but you can't have everything! Time for a bit of painting. The exhaust was repainted (after being plugged with exhaust gum) with Granville Cylinder Paint - a £8 tin seems to be lasting me for years and it's tough as old boots. The other metal parts are getting a white primer coat before being reprayed black.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/bo8r6jfn7/granville.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/jtqt4p3vz/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/9joe5h8vn/Exhaust_painting.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/f7uowdd7z/)
I know it doesn't look the best; I just like my exhausts to last.
Since you last saw these brackets, I've tidied them up a touch; filed off any rough edges, removed burrs and de-rusted them.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/8he7n1d8j/primer.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/a976hxwlb/)
Anyway, it's been a good day's painting. Tomorrow I'll see if I can free the brake calliper pins again, so that I can copper grease them and reassemble. I need to know that, if I need to take them apart on the road, they're going to come free for me!
I'm looking forward to reassembling the new, shiny, painted exhaust with no holes. I know the brush paint job isn't the most beautiful way forwards, but it does seem to keep the rot at bay for longer than the spray jobs I've done in the past.
Anyway, back to the job in hand!
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What a project! Keep going, don't let us bother you! This is what it is all about!
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It looks like I'm going to be rained off for a while.
Awaiting impact driver bits to try and remove the brake pan pins from the calliper.
I can't reinstall the exhaust until the brake calliper at the back is greased and freed, and until the new exhaust gasket arrives.
I assume I'll have the same issue with the front calliper, although I haven't properly investigated this one yet.
The front forks still can't be removed due to not being able to remove the mudguard's fixing screws rusted into place. I strongly suspect I'll end up cutting these out so I can get to the forks. I might be able to get this done, then get the fork oil changed (and seals, if required) in the shed whilst it's still wet out and about.
New front tyre is here (Maxxis, feels sticky, really looking forward to being shot of the Kenda) but I need to bribe a chap to fit it to the rim and that won't happen until Monday now.
It might be a good time to start prepping and soldering some cables up, ready to be fitted later on.
The bike is kept outside, so I can work in the shed, but the bike can't get into the shed without me losing the ability to move around it.
I hate being held up!
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Nice thread! [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]
Do you have some issues with the front forks that requires changing the oil in them?
How many km/miles on the scoot?
Sent from my Redmi 4 using Tapatalk
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Nice thread! [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]
Do you have some issues with the front forks that requires changing the oil in them?
How many km/miles on the scoot?
Sent from my Redmi 4 using Tapatalk
Hey!
~17,000KM on the scoot.
The forks don't rebound very well, squeak a bit and I'm suspicious of the fork seals. I know they've been changed previously but I'm not convinced the oil was topped up properly.
I've got good quality oil here so it seems a no brainer to get them out, especially if the pair of fork gaitors (boots) I've got kicking around will fit back on to them and provide extra protection!
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Hey!
~17,000KM on the scoot.
The forks don't rebound very well, squeak a bit and I'm suspicious of the fork seals. I know they've been changed previously but I'm not convinced the oil was topped up properly.
I've got good quality oil here so it seems a no brainer to get them out, especially if the pair of fork gaitors (boots) I've got kicking around will fit back on to them and provide extra protection!
[emoji106]
2500mi trip! Respect!
Spain,France, Italy?
All the above?
Sent from my Redmi 4 using Tapatalk
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[emoji106]
2500mi trip! Respect!
Spain,France, Italy?
All the above?
Sent from my Redmi 4 using Tapatalk
UK, Wales, Ireland, Northern Ireland, Scottish Highlands :)
Going with some friends on C90s - a Honda Passport, in American terms! Mine will be the biggest motor on the trip.
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After reading of your failed exhaust hanger - I had a look at mine. Found a bit of rust had formed since my last painting (when disassembled for new tire)
Gave it a good steel brushing and a respray....and smelled the new paint cooking for both rides yesterday.
I noticed that the ACF-50 has finally quit smelling this spring.
Other than a bit of brown on that hanger .... I noted things look good with that protectant applied. Takes work to get it applied everywhere (on 2 scoots and 2 bikes)....but peace of mind....
Scooters riding through UK weather sure look like they could have done with the stuff, when new. We deal with salt on roads, you with grit. Thought grit would be easier on metals.....but maybe it isn't?
Stig
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You probably know this...but just in case: you will need extra current for those dual horns, so a separate (fused) 14 gauge line directly from the battery in needed, plus a relay to activate them. I got the dual snail horns on ebay for $9 and the relay for $2. And they sound great! Good luck, Mr. V.
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Scooters riding through UK weather sure look like they could have done with the stuff, when new. We deal with salt on roads, you with grit. Thought grit would be easier on metals.....but maybe it isn't?
We don't even get grit on the roads for that much of winter. The winter that we've just come through was an anomaly in terms of snow and ice!
I think it might be more of a cultural thing. From what I gather, there may be more scooters kept in garages and outbuildings in the USA, and continental Europe is much drier than we are here.
I think that many scooters (particularly as they are beloved of the young riders as a first vehicle) sit outside in the UK all year around. Or this is my take on it, anyway! I'm glad your exhaust is doing well. That ACF50 is great stuff. I have the grease version; when I was working as a courier it was part of my winter ritual to smother the underside engine brackets of the bike every couple of weeks after a good wash.
You probably know this...but just in case: you will need extra current for those dual horns, so a separate (fused) 14 gauge line directly from the battery in needed, plus a relay to activate them. I got the dual snail horns on ebay for $9 and the relay for $2. And they sound great! Good luck, Mr. V.
I do know that, but anybody coming to the thread in the future may not, so thanks for pointing it out! :) I am running a seperate battery live up to an auxillary fusebox behind the glovebox and the horn will be run from there, as you suggest, via a DPDT (although SPST would be fine) which is driven by the old horn connectors.
I've used these to good effect in the past, although I don't actually need the fuse for this application;
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/THGS-Fused-On-Off-Automotive-Fused-Relay-12V-30A-4-Pin-Normally-Open-Car-Bike-black/32842321814.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.2.35573e45oRUwuH&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_2_10152_10065_10709_10151_10344_10068_10130_5722815_10324_10342_10547_10325_10343_10340_10341_10548_5722915_5722615_10696_10192_10190_10084_10083_10618_10307_10710_10301_10303_5722715_5711215_10059_10184_308_100031_10103_10624_10623_10622_5711315_5722515_10621_10620,searchweb201603_25,ppcSwitch_2&algo_expid=25ebf017-5986-4cf8-b496-e8d2262806ba-0&algo_pvid=25ebf017-5986-4cf8-b496-e8d2262806ba&transAbTest=ae803_2&priceBeautifyAB=0 (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/THGS-Fused-On-Off-Automotive-Fused-Relay-12V-30A-4-Pin-Normally-Open-Car-Bike-black/32842321814.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.2.35573e45oRUwuH&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_2_10152_10065_10709_10151_10344_10068_10130_5722815_10324_10342_10547_10325_10343_10340_10341_10548_5722915_5722615_10696_10192_10190_10084_10083_10618_10307_10710_10301_10303_5722715_5711215_10059_10184_308_100031_10103_10624_10623_10622_5711315_5722515_10621_10620,searchweb201603_25,ppcSwitch_2&algo_expid=25ebf017-5986-4cf8-b496-e8d2262806ba-0&algo_pvid=25ebf017-5986-4cf8-b496-e8d2262806ba&transAbTest=ae803_2&priceBeautifyAB=0)
The Maxxis tyre is now on the front rim. It looks and feels a lot better. I may have to put the scooter back together this evening to be able to get to work on Wednesday and Thursday. I don't want to have to keep driving my other half's car, which makes some cracking knocking noises from engine... I want it to go blow up, well, ideally never; but if (when) it does, I don't want to be the one driving it! ;D
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Got around to taking the SLR pictures off today;
(https://s19.postimg.cc/grnpmgy1v/019.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/ciizkbxdf/020.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/ijgohd1z7/021.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/pmojwycjn/022.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/4psbsam8j/023.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/ko11ifo6b/024.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/qc7c9apxv/025.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/409jfwyjn/026.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/52jpykc8z/028.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/aqq0pflqb/029.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/7jvh5tofn/031.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/8m5noczj7/032.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/ko11ijj2b/036.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/xs6lv83eb/037.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/xff7p1der/038.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/ox5rkqh6r/039.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/4psbsfrf7/040.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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(https://s19.postimg.cc/jyi96h0lv/IMG_20180428_111134.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
New Maxxis tyre on the front wheel. Feels nice and sticky! The original Kenda is behind, destined to meet the bin soon.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/en3clr6tf/IMG_20180429_164226.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Bit of a find on the pavement - scabby old mudflap that's fallen off a car, but it's the perfect material to cut down to size for the rear mudguard!
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If you are going to replace those rusty mirrors have a look for some Vespa mirrors. Much better view and because they sit wider you get to see the road behind you and not just a view of your shoulders.
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If you are going to replace those rusty mirrors have a look for some Vespa mirrors. Much better view and because they sit wider you get to see the road behind you and not just a view of your shoulders.
Thanks for the pointer. I agree the mirrors aren't great. I have the extenders here off the old bike so I'm expecting that they can be re-installed onto it.
I have a question for other Like users in the US. The indicators that you have under the handlebar fairing, which I don't; what are they attached to? Is there a metal bracket under there or are they mounted to plastic?
**EDIT** I popped the little plastic tab out with a tiny saw and the EU bikes have the mounting below as well. Spotlight mounts are a-go!
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Just been for a ride with the Maxxis on the front for the first time. The difference between the new tyre and the original Kenda is incredible. It leans into corners well, feels far more planted and there's far less vibration from the front end. I am very impressed!
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I thought the Kendas were ok but I have just changed mine to stickier ones as winter is coming. A lot cheaper than car tyres. ;D
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**EDIT** Lost the know-how to do Youtube embeds again, so back to URLs for now.
Bit more work ongoing as the bike was put back together at the weekend. The timeline's getting a bit unclear! Hopefully I can make more progress at the weekend.
The wheel bearings at the front are 6201s. We have a quick look at the oil seal too here.
Bearings
https://youtu.be/TF_CDolNfxI (https://youtu.be/TF_CDolNfxI)
Getting the original exhaust gasket out was an absolute sod. I'm worried I may have duffed up the outlet port a little chiselling it out, but the new gasket seems to have sealed OK.
Gasket
https://youtu.be/R9p8wG73BdE (https://youtu.be/R9p8wG73BdE)
These are the LED strips featured in the video!
]https://www.aliexpress.com/item/12V-Auto-Lights-Brake-Lamps-12-SMD-LED-Truck-Turn-Indicators-1-Pair-Car-Turn-Signal/32801075366.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.Tcpyuw] (http://[url=https://www.aliexpress.com/item/12V-Auto-Lights-Brake-Lamps-12-SMD-LED-Truck-Turn-Indicators-1-Pair-Car-Turn-Signal/32801075366.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.Tcpyuw)
They come with a foam mounting pad and two screws. I think the video will, again, probably make more sense.
DRLS
https://youtu.be/HcwxsoKeyyQ (https://youtu.be/HcwxsoKeyyQ)
(https://s31.postimg.cc/9rvp0lcd7/IMG_20180509_185013.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
New £6.50 sliders are here. I wanted to work out what weight I wanted before going for the £30 Dr. Pulleys, as I can't afford to get it wrong. I'll pop these bad boys and a new belt at the weekend!
Starting to make progress now. In the next few days I'm hoping the luggage situation will start to come together. I also need to edit up a video on the hand guards...
(https://s31.postimg.cc/clyue1m97/IMG_20180509_185020.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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** Three videos are here this time - variator reassembly and cleaning, putting the drive belt etc. back together and a quick talk on 13g rollers :) ** (https://deliverscoot.com/2018/05/13/new-day-new-variator/)
I've put the 13g sliding pieces/rollers in and it's really devastated the performance of the scooter!
Removed the original belt at 17000KM and I have to say, it wasn't even that worn. The same can be said for the rollers!
I'm glad it's done though, as now I know how to nip it all apart on the road.
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Also I've had a little time to look at Brian - the other Kymco Like hiding behind my shed.
I've had a battery on it and the engine turns over on the starter... just. Something's really not right. I think the starter motor would be a good first port of call, as it's turning over in a very laboured fashion and the current drain is huge.
I've also noticed that Brian the 125 has a kick start, but Bernard the 200 doesn't - although the engagement nut is still on the 200. I'm thinking of swapping the drive belt covers and seeing if the kick start can be added to the 200 as a bolt on! We'll find out fairly soon.
I'll be trying 15g rollers next, I think...
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I put Dr Pulley sliders in mine and am very happy. Was having a little bit of vibration taking off for a few days and then it smoothed out. The belt may look good but it might have compressed a fraction at those amount of k's.
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What is the standard roller weight on the Like 200?
On my 125ccm 13g is standard, so I tried 11.5g Dr.Pulley sliders as advised on their web site.
The acceleration was much better, didn't matter if it was going on level ground or uphill, it just went!
Did loose a bit of top speed, but the reason I took them out was that the scoot was almost all the time in high revs, and it got anoying very quickly. Took em out after 500km.
Bought 13g slider soon after, and liked them so they are still inside.
Sent from my Redmi 4 using Tapatalk
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I am using 13 gms on my Like 200i.
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Maybe it's the brand of roller. I'm going to buy a couple of sets of round ones to experiment with!
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Wow! I’ve been following this thread and I am impressed with all that work your putting in Viper!
I can’t wait to see the end product. This is one detailed thread Viper. Thank you. I am very mechanically inclined but if I haven’t tackled anything in particular myself, I’m kind of hesitant to do it at first. Example, I keep reading where some of you guys install these sliders and the improvements they make. Now I want them! Lol. I just don’t know where to start as far as installing them. I’m sure there are great vids in here somewhere. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180514/7b8fd1994fcd81301110b683092d9c31.jpg). If I can do this to my 1800cc bike then I’m sure I can handle the Like!!!!
Stig! I also read where you made the comment about people in the U. S. keeping their scoots in the garages. Yes sir for most part we do. I keep both bikes in my garage daily. I personally don’t like them in any of the outside elements. I like to keep them shiny! Lol. Their always kept detailed. That’s just me. Also like anywhere else you sometimes have to worry about theft.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Wow! I’ve been following this thread and I am impressed with all that work your putting in Viper!
I can’t wait to see the end product. This is one detailed thread Viper. Thank you. I am very mechanically inclined but if I haven’t tackled anything in particular myself, I’m kind of hesitant to do it at first. Example, I keep reading where some of you guys install these sliders and the improvements they make. Now I want them! Lol. I just don’t know where to start as far as installing them. I’m sure there are great vids in here somewhere. If I can do this to my 1800cc bike then I’m sure I can handle the Like!!!!
Stig! I also read where you made the comment about people in the U. S. keeping their scoots in the garages. Yes sir for most part we do. I keep both bikes in my garage daily. I personally don’t like them in any of the outside elements. I like to keep them shiny! Lol. Their always kept detailed. That’s just me. Also like anywhere else you sometimes have to worry about theft.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
goodness, you've destroyed that bike! :)
Here's my DIY for the sliders on a LIKE200i.
http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=11373.msg114385#msg114385 (http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=11373.msg114385#msg114385)
Toughest bit was the belt cover. Stuck fast from the factory. Member Vespbretta had good tip: tap on cover tabs from the muffler side - going through the wheel spokes. Maybe use a piece of wood not to damage the cover. Just be certain all securing bolts are off before prying on the cover!
Stig
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Thanks Stig - that's brilliant - and I can see a mistake I've made so I'll need to go back and correct a video!
David, scooters are a joy to work on - you'll be fine
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I'll add my 2-cents worth: when you remove the CVT cover don't loose the two little alignment/keeper pins that will try to fall out and roll away. Remove the cover slooowly and you will see those alignment pins, or tubes, or keepers, or whatever they are called, in either the cover in your hand or the bracket on the bike...or the ground.
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I did not wing the first CVT/BELT/SLIDER/CLUTCH rodeo without paying close attention to my www.cyclepedia.com (http://www.cyclepedia.com) on-line service manual for the Kymco LIKE200i.
I'd never seen the guts of a scooter before....
Stig
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I'll add my 2-cents worth: when you remove the CVT cover don't loose the two little alignment/keeper pins that will try to fall out and roll away. Remove the cover slooowly and you will see those alignment pins, or tubes, or keepers, or whatever they are called, in either the cover in your hand or the bracket on the bike...or the ground.
Yes, we call them dowels - they're happily attached to my belt cover!
I think I may end up doing the videos as I'm not particularly happy with them; I think I would release the clutch next time rather than leaving it in situ.
Also I put my sliders in the wrong way around :(
So all in all, I'll be needing to do this bit of the process again. That's fine! All part of the learning process.
I've no idea if the new belt is making a difference, but pull-away is a bit smoother and now I have a spare under the seat :)
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"Dowels"...of course. I sh**ta known that term. Thanks.
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Work's been a bit slow over the last couple of weeks as I've been making various family visits (300 miles away) and been using the bike for work every day. 2000KM since April now!
The Maxxis front tyre has worn in really well. I am really pleased with it.
I'm starting to get a proper feel for the scooter now. I'm a lot more confident in blipping, filtering through heavy traffic, cornering and expecting the shuffle on any poor road surface.
The worrying hip ache that I was getting when I first had the bike has pretty much subsided. I think I was out of scooter practice after having a few months off!
I had a gift voucher to use, so I bought some Ride-On tyre sealant/balancer to see what it's like. Some people rave about it, others have slagged it off, but I thought it was worth a punt as a defence against punctures when I'm off in a few weeks touring.
As a balancer, it seems to work well; there's a little less vibration at the front and a definite smoothness added.
However, at £32 a bottle (more than £120 a litre!) it's more expensive than the tyres that are fitted :(
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Funny comment about the price of that stuff.
I carry inflater and repair kits under both seats....touch wood still in their wrappers after 5 yrs.
One flat i had on the Forza was too big to fix....had to be flat-bedded to dealer.
Stig
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Funny comment about the price of that stuff.
I carry inflater and repair kits under both seats....touch wood still in their wrappers after 5 yrs.
One flat i had on the Forza was too big to fix....had to be flat-bedded to dealer.
Stig
I'll be carrying plugs when I'm away for sure. I've been lucky with punctures for a few years, which probably means I'm due one!
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I have a small repair kit under my seat which includes a lezyne high pressure hand pump. I let out a lot of air one day and used the pump and although it was not real quick it did the job. One of the local bike shops sells them so the must be ok although I got mine off ebay at a lot better price.
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We've had some nice, hot days this week and a real lack of supervision at work, so I've been able to have a good, close look at the underbelly of the scooter. There's some work to be done down here as well, though nothing's out of hand as of yet.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/bziob36sj/20180524_132059_1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
The rear shocks look bad, and I'm struggling to get them to adjust as the terrible spray paint job is holding them in place. I think they'll clean up OK when I manage to get them off, but for the mean time I'm planning to swap them with the shocks off the newer bike.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/uf358fv6r/20180524_132158_1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
That's just a gratuitous shot of the rear tyre and exhaust - note the missing end piece off the exhaust. I will shortly be pilfering the end piece from the other bike, again!
(https://s19.postimg.cc/oe5gbdgab/20180524_132145_1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
The belt cover isn't looking too smart, and has already had one (quite poor) respray. I can't see me getting it done before leaving in a few weeks, but I'd like to have it off, resprayed in a proper zinc primer and then with aluminium paint or black.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/xyp2y9dc3/20180524_132130_1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/cp1gnfrwj/20180524_132052_1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Base of the rear shock is, again, not pretty. The little bracket supporting the mudguard has started to rust, especially on the rear, so that needs to come off for the primer and paint treatment this weekend!
(https://s19.postimg.cc/bziob36sj/20180524_132059_1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
A better shot of the rear shock.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/yo7vamtb7/20180524_132021_1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
As you can see, the centre stand rubber is missing, which is a great shame, and there's been damage to the belt cover here at some point, which worries me as I can't see how it's been done. I haven't checked if the other bike has a centre stand rubber yet, but I'm planning to pinch the centre stand off the other bike, spray it up and swap it with this one as the rust has set in a bit. The stand lugs on the frame are also suffering with a light rusting, so they'll need wire brushing and some paint to keep them solid. After all this, I can apply ACF50 grease to this lower section of the frame to slow down any further deterioration!
(https://s19.postimg.cc/kujill8fn/20180524_131921_Burst01_1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
See the little black cap in the top of this photo? That's the airbox drain. I pulled out the bung, expecting a few drops of water, and got my hands soaked with foul-smelling deposits of rusty, stagnant water with a tinge of petrol smell. It took me hours to get rid of the smell! It's clearly never been drained until now.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/drbn5ynkj/1527164405791_1.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
This is what the rubber bung is connected to at the other end. It's up at the airbox.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/urujevl8z/IMG_20180515_181009.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
On the way home from work, I have to take a rest nowadays, so I stop by this duck pond in a village. There's been an ice cream van parked there recently too :D The top box, unsurprisingly, needs some work as well, hence the bungie holding it on.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/5ltl81roj/IMG_20180520_123056.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
This is a gratuitous shot of where I grew up. I was down there at the weekend. The biking roads are amazing.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/egufiko6r/IMG_20180524_163932.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
However, the Derbyshire lanes are also pretty cool.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/ceyjhpcwz/IMG_20180421_180932.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
Did I post pictures of the pannier rails and the luggage rack support getting a respray?
(https://s19.postimg.cc/s0fv1nwkz/IMG_20180421_184724.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Looks like you shock is on the firmest setting. I had my shocks adjusted to the middle one but may try giving the softest setting a go and see how that feels.
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I'm going to need the mole grips to loosen them off
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Hello,
A question.
What is it that has eaten up your scooter to this degree?
The constant wetness of the climate?
It's not the use salt on your roads, is it?
The winter grit used on the roads?
Never being covered?
Just curious - Your photos display an amazing amount of deterioration of the metals.
My LIKE is the same age as is your scooter - but looks much different.
Stig
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To be honest, I can't answer that. The UK is quite wet, but I don't know anything about the bike before I bought it.
My old Suzuki 110 looked worse than this at 3 years old. That was uncovered and run all year, though.
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Right, sorry for the lack of updates; I've been knocked a bit sideways with family committments this week and I'm supposed to be leaving next Wednesday for Ireland so hopefully all will come together!
This beautifully bent piece of metal is a spotlight bracket that uses the original rectifier mounting behind the front panel for a mounting, snakes downwards and protrudes through the little grille at the bottom of the nose, from which the mesh has been removed.
It will be switchable - dependant on the full beam being on of course.
More pictures to follow, perhaps this evening.
(https://s19.postimg.cc/m0tzqup4j/IMG_20180603_174007.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/kyjt8blqr/IMG_20180603_174020.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s19.postimg.cc/50b3i6jsz/IMG_20180603_174026.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Leaving tomorrow for the trip. I'm well behind with my pictures. I'll update in the pictures/stories thread when I'm back :) Stay safe!
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Have a great and safe trip. ;)
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Leaving tomorrow for the trip. I'm well behind with my pictures. I'll update in the pictures/stories thread when I'm back :) Stay safe!
Can’t wait to see those pics.
Has anyone changed out their headlight bulb to something more visible? Need to be seen! Lol.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Can’t wait to see those pics.
Has anyone changed out their headlight bulb to something more visible? Need to be seen! Lol.
A couple of us are using this bulb
https://www.amazon.com/Philips-9003MVB1-MotoVision-Motorcycle-Replacement/dp/B077DB54QF (https://www.amazon.com/Philips-9003MVB1-MotoVision-Motorcycle-Replacement/dp/B077DB54QF)
Stig
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Thx Stig!!!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Changing the rear wheel on a Kymco Like 200i - much more complex than expected.
Before you start, make sure you have a good system for laying out your bolts to recall which part of the bike they are from. You'll thank yourself later!
1) Open seat and remove the seat bucket; 2x 10mm bolts near the fuel cap, 2x 10mm bolts at the front of the seat buckets and two screws near the seat hinge.
2) Remove the luggage rack, using the two bolts that attach the rear bracket to the body and the two allen-headed bolts that secure the pillion arm rests to the frame.
3) Remove the four large silver screws; two hold the lower side panel in place on both sides of the bike. They're likely to be stiff and you'll need the right screwdriver!
4) Remove two fairing screws; one from each corner of the rear mudguard where it meets the lower side panel. This isn't necessary, but will make life easier.
5) Remove the lower side panels by moving them forward and back until they unclip. Put them somewhere safe!
6) Where the seat bucket previously was, look inside the fairing. about halfway across the cavity, at the sides, there's two 10mm bolts, one on each side, holding the fairing on. Undo and remove each one carefully, taking care not to break any tabs off the bodywork panels.
7) Remove the spark plug inspection cover, which is located down near the battery, below the seat joint. There's two fairing screws to remove, then it should unclip.
8 ) It should now be possible to gently detach the entire rear plastics from the bike, and lift it off and away. As you lift it, you'll need to disconnect the plugs for the back lights! Plonk the plastics somewhere safe.
9) Let's have a look at the exhaust now. With a 12mm socket, get under the bike and undo the two M12 cap nuts that secure the exhaust to the manifold.
10) The O2 sensor for the exhaust is plugged into the loom by a 2x2 plug that can probably be found just above the fan cover. Unplug it from the loom so that nothing gets pulled unnecessarily.
11) Continuing with the 12mm socket, move around to the exhaust and remove the bolts that secure it to the bracket. There's 2 bolts on the 200cc bike, and 3 on the 125cc bike. Keep them safe.
12) It should now be possible to gently remove the exhaust and take it away from the bike.
13) Now we can remove the rear shock. The lower bolt passes through the exhaust mounting bracket, and can be undone with a M12 socket. The upper bolt is near the fuel tank, and will require a 14mm socket to remove, and some considerable force. The shock should then be released!
14) It's time to loosen the wheel nut and remove it. You need a 24mm socket and a lot of force. I had to use a "breaker bar" and get somebody to hold the back brake locked whilst I applied the needed force to release the nut! Keep the nut and the two spacers behind it safe.
15) Let's release the brake calliper. It's two 12mm bolts on the exhaust mounting bracket, then the calliper can be teased off the rear wheel. I had to use a mallet to gentle persuade it to come away.
17) There's one 8mm bolt that holds the brake hose to the mounting bracket. It's an optional step, but worth removing it for ease of movement.
18) Now, there's two 12mm bolts left holding the mounting bracket in place. They hold the bracket to the engine. Release them and slide the bracket away!
19) There is one small bolt (M10 or M8 head, I can't recall now) that is holding the rear hugger in place, up and left a little from the fan grille. This needs to be removed.
20) Slide the wheel off the shaft, taking care to retrieve the spacer that will slide out with it.
Congratulations, you have removed the wheel! If anybody knows if any of the steps here were unnecessary, I'd welcome your feedback; I've never owned a scooter where it's such a palava to get the wheel off!
NB: I've since been informed by Stig that it's possible to get the rear wheel off without removing the shock, and therefore the bodywork, by moving the wheel carefully between the two shocks from the rear. I'll be trying this next time!
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http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=24130.msg171050#msg171050 (http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=24130.msg171050#msg171050)
Took some photos of the install.
many of my removall photos are missing.
http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=24124.msg171011#msg171011 (http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=24124.msg171011#msg171011)
Found only these
(https://s33.postimg.cc/f91g1kdov/20170312_151047.jpg)
(https://s33.postimg.cc/aof9m7efj/20170312_151109.jpg)
Stig
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Thanks Stig. I'm pleased to see that it can be done without removing the shock; I clearly wasn't thoughtful enough in trying to manipulate the bits and pieces at the back end.
The good news is that I now have the decrepit rear shock replaced; the newer bike's rear shock is on the right hand side. The left hand side one still needs swapping out.
Despite repairs undertaken in spring, I think the original exhaust is not long for this world. There's more holes and rust flakes in it :( but I can't afford the GPR replacement at the moment, so it'll need to hang on a bit longer.
I've swapped the wheel from the donor bike (Like 125) onto the 200 now to get the last couple of thousand miles out of the tyre that's fitted. The right-angled valve is an absolute revalation.
Rear brake calliper isn't looking great either. Work will shortly commence on getting the spare (from the 125) taken off, the pots cleaned, the pins freed and then swapping this onto the bike so the same can happen to the 200's calliper.
Considering this is the better calliper, I'm reluctance to look at the front.
Also on the to-do list is to swap the centre stand over from the 125 (less corroded) after it's had the zinc galv spray treatment.
This Kymco has quite the dual personality. Despite there being a fair amount wrong with it, it's still going after a 2500 UK lap. I guess it just needs TLC.