KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 50cc => zx50 => Topic started by: robmsz on June 16, 2010, 11:07:31 PM
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I have a factory de-restricted 2004 KYMCO ZX-50 SUPER FEVER with around 13,500 K's on it. I bought it in 2008 with about 6,000 K on it. I run BEL-RAY SI-7 and usually premium gas in it.
The only sort of maintenance I have ever done on it was replace the rear tire with an AVON, put a 1 or 2 new spark plugs in it and maybe change a rear marker light. Now on to the problem.....
My father drives the scooter more than me, so here is what he told me happened......He started it up as usual with no problems, took off and after going roughly ½ mile, hitting a red light or two the next one he stopped @ it just died.
When I went to check it out it started & idled all right but would not accelerate. I checked all the cables and they looked fine. Not having thje tools to do anymore where it was I had get it transported home.
After taking all the body work off and looking things over I decided to throw in a new plug. When I checked for spark there was none.
My question is after joining the forum a while ago and reading about the ZX-50 is that the electronic ignitions do & have failed on these scooters.
Would that be the cause of it starting but not accelerating?
Is there anything else I should look at/check?
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well, i am the least experienced one around here for sure but if it starts but not accelerate, seems that would be carb/cable issue.. the no spark part could be the cdi(check the green wires to make sure solder joint is good, clean it if corroded)or the coil, is the boot ok? had to replace mine a few days ago. there are a few guys that could help better than i since i STILL rely on people around here..lmao maybe z or shaka, sid will chime in on this one too
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Thank you for the reply TBM every little bit helps!
I just came back here to make a correction......
I DO GET SPARK....The kill switch was off. I never touch it thats why it didn't occur to me to check it. It must have been hit while loading it on the truck yesterday.
I stated in my first post that I already checked all the cabble connected to the throttle and they are working & looked OK.
I was reading and seen where some people were having a problem with clogged mufflers. The exhaust comes out strong, so I don't think that has any bearing on why it will only idle and not accelerate.
I know someone out there knows the solution to my no start dilemma!
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yw. now when i had the stock muffler, there is a catalitic converter inside. i had to beat mine out(got clogged,wouldnt do a thing). you could just loosen those 2 10mm bolts to check if clogged any there.. otherwise the cdi could be going out(check ohms).. you could just need a good carb cleaning if its never had it.. main jet could be clogged, pilot open since idles.. i would clean carb, check exhaust, cdi ohms..
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I think batman Nailed it. Pull the carb, and completely disassemble it. The main jet, and or the atomizer may be clogged. You will need a can of Brake Clean or Carb Clean., and some sewing needles. If you think you got it all cleaned out... do it again. Something smaller than a grain of sand is easy to miss. If it starts, and idles it is not ignition related. If you have a compression tester Run a quick check. You want to see a reading over 100psi
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That was my first thought is that the carb. was gunked up somewhere along the works. BUT I was reading about CDI's acting up and limping home or otherwise not running right.
I would very much appreciate someone mapping out the ohm test on my CDI.
I would like to do that before taking the carb. apart or even doing a compression check. My thinking is that if it runs @ idle the compression should be OK and I just like to do as little as possible. Just fix what needs fixin. So if I can POSITIVELY rule out the CDI that would be the next step I'd like to take as long as I can find out how to do it.
P.S.
I did have the muffler off back in april (the last time I posted) & it looked OK.
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you have black/white, black/red, black/yellow, blue/yellow, green... +b/w--black/r should b 1-10..+green--blue/y should b 10-30...-blue/y-+black/r should b 3-40..-green-+black/r should b 2-10..-blue/y--black/r should b 80-120..-green--black/w should b 10-30 ohms...whew!!..lol this according to service manual
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WELL ! :o
TYVM TBM for saying you have the least experiance around, you sure have helped!
Since I can't get to muh scoots right now I'll do it 2morrow. I have it all printed out & ready to go.
Stay tuned crime fighters!
Is that what they used to say on the B&W Batman & Robin episodes?
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same bat time: same bat channel..... glad i could help.. hope its simple tomorrow
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You can download the service manual under the general discussion tab. I had a similar problem when my voltage regulator went out. The procedure for checking that is in the manual. That's a real easy one to get to and check! Otherwise, I think you may have a clogged fuel filter either inline or in the petcock. You can check the fuel flow by disconnecting the fuel line from the carb and the vacuum line from the intake manifold. Put the fuel line in a bottle and suck on the vacuum. You should have a good flow of fuel into your bottle. Beyond that I would take the carb apart and clean it real well. Check your spark plug wire for cracks and you can test the resistance as well. That procedure is also in the manual. Good luck!
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I should be getting gas all right because I removed the air cleaner, put my hand over the opening and cranked the motor over. The gas was just dripping out when I removed my hand and the spark plug was soaked.
What are your thoughts on this?
P.S.
Does anyone have the link to the ZX-50 manual? I looked in "general" & the ZX-50 thread was 42 pages long!
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Going back to basics, with the air cleaner removed can you see the carb slide move when you turn the throttle?
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I already replaced the air cleaner....But I did work the throttle with the throttle pin (if thats what you call it) was moving. It compressed the spring OK.....
& I added a P.S. to me previous post.
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It sounds like your float may be stuck and/or the needle valve is stuck allowing too much fuel in and flooding the engine. Has any fuel been leaking out of the drain tubes on the carb. It does sound like you need to pull the carb and give it a good cleaning! Keep in mind that it is normal to get some "blow-back" from the carb, just the nature of a reed valve induction.
Here's the thread with all the service manual links. If you can't get any of them to work for some reason PM me and I can email it to you.
http://kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=1689.0 (http://kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=1689.0)
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I don't think the float is stuck because it idles all right. the only reason gas was dripping out the air cleaner side was because i held my hand over the opening (with air cleaner removed) and cranked the motor over. other wise the gas doesn't leak anywhere or any other time.
2morrow I'm going to check the CDI unit with an ohm meter and if everything checks out because i am getting spark is to pull the carb and clean it because i suspect that the main jet has crap in it since it idles fine.
P.S. Thanks SHAKA for giving me the link to the manual!
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It's the main jet~
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Very well could be the main jet. Check the voltage regulator and ignition coil while you're at it.
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THEBATMAN gave me the procedure for cking that I believe but I'm still having a problem finding the manual for the ZX-50. I followed the link that SHAKA gave me but I was unable to get it to work,.
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not sure of the link but i have the manual itself,expensive lil bugger..lmao.. if you have troubles with finding it, i can look at mine for you or take pics of it and txt to you.. good luck.. you should be good today with those ideas...
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Thanks but I just dnloaded it. It seems SHAKA was up late uploading it for me and I just dnloaded it THANKS!
Well today's the day I find out what is wrong with my scoot.
The only thing with these boards is that I'm committed to doing it now because I said that I would!
Maybe thats not a bad thing though....
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hell yeah, good deal...yep, your commited now...lol this way, youll know what to look for the next time anything happens... good luck today...
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When dealing with a 2-stroke motor there are a few things to check first:
1.spark
2. fuel
3. compression
You have spark.
It doesn't sound like compression is an issue, and i don't think you had a soft seize. You can get a cheap compression tester at harbor freight.
Fuel: you've got to clean the carb. I suggest spending the $25 to get a can of carb dip. You can use it over and over again and if you continue to spend time with a two stroke - you will need it. Guitar strings are a good tool to help clean out all the little holes and some spray carb cleaner can help get rid of specks of crud that are sticking to the carb.
here is a good guide to cleaning the carb: http://hondaspree.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=5389 (http://hondaspree.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=5389)
Often times the simplest explanation is the right one. I've never had a CDI go out on me, but i'm not sure that is the issue.
Good luck.
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Yeah mate, you're commited now, people all over the world are awaiting the outcome of this. :)
Good luck.
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Hey Batman, did you get the manual in paper form?
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hey sid, yeah, i had to order it at a local motorcycle shop from kymco... valuble book i must say but it does have a few conflicting pages...shouldnt have been $35...lmao...
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Did you end up getting the on line one?
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no, its the actual manual...i did print out jennings book(need to redo a few pages, dam printer.lol)
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OK Peoples, This what I've & what I've done so far.
I used my ohm meter on 200k my readings were:
Below the 200k reading are the readings @ 2000k
blue/yellow to black/red ; 172. supposed to be 3~40
925
blue/yellow to black/white ; 172. supposed to be 80~120
925
blue/yellow to green ; no reading supposed to be 10~30
750
green to black/red ; 119. supposed to be 2~10
122
green to black/white ; 119. supposed to be 10~30
122
I don't recall what I got for the first one but I had it written down as a 6. the wires were;
black/red to black/white ; 6 supposed to be 1~10
1
I dunno but it doesnt look right to me. I'm not sure what the actual readings are supposed to be on the 200k scale, but like I said it doesnt look right to me.
does anyone else want to chime in?
The thing that has me thinking its the CDI unit is because it starts and idles just fine, but when I open up the throttle with the aitbox off, I can hear it sucking more air and the only thing missing is the spark advance for more rpm's.
I have the carbatooter off and soaking right now and I'll blow it out and put it back together and on 2morrow. The bowl was full so I'm getting gas to the carbatooter. I can hear it sucking more air when I crack the throttle so I know the jet needle is moving OK.
Any thoughts?
Oh and b4 I forget where should I look for another CDI box? I seen where someone was getting them from tiawan, but I really can't wait 25 days! Around here we count the summer in weeks not months and we only have about 8 weeks left!
I would have had more done today but I wasn't touching anything until I degrease EVERYTHING. It seems like anything I needed to touch had a layer of crud on it. It was a little easier to work on with everything clean!
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There are 2 unrestricted CDI boxes on ebay right now. One is about $65 bucks, the other around $70. Also some regulators and other stuff.
I typed in Kymco zx 50 in the ebay search.
Edit: Whoops, Sorry, I see they are both in taiwan.
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Glad you received the manual alright! For the testing, change the settings on the voltmeter and try again. I ran into that problem last week while trying to test my Seadoo computer. I'm not all that great with a voltmeter, but I found I had to play with the settings to get it to read correctly. After isolating a blown diode inside the box and soldering in a new one it seems to be fixed! Also keep in mind that just because you are not getting the readings the manual calls for doesn't necessarily mean that the cdi is bad! Have you checked the voltage regulator and ignition coil yet?
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No I haven't cked them yet. All i think different settings on the ohm meter will do is chng the decimal point place correct?
I was just going to see if the ZX-50 has an automatic petcock because if I recall when I pulled of the gas line, the gas didn't free flow out but rather just trickled.
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The voltmeter won't read correctly if you have it in too low of setting. Try using the highest setting, 2000K and see what it says.
The petcock is vacuum actuated. There has to be vacuum applied to the vacuum line for fuel to flow.
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Yes I just chked & it is a auto fuel valve. I think I'm going to do a little more right now and put the carb. back on and retest the CDI.
I just replaced the carb after cleaning thoroughly and its still not accelerating. I'm guessing its the CDI unit unless there is something else preventing it from gaining any kind of rpm's.
It starts right up and idles fine. just cant accelerate AT ALL!
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A/C charging unit cks out OK
Coil cks out OK
Does anyone know where I can get a cheap CDI unit to get me going until I can get one from the commies?
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I think I may have read about someone using this one, not certain it will work though. You may have to cut and splice some wires if the plugs don't fit. I think the main thing is getting one that is either A/C or D/C. They make cdi's that run on either and I can't remember off hand which the ZX50 uses. You should be able to look at the wiring diagram to figure it out. If the stator runs direct to the cdi it's A/C, if it runs through the voltage regulator first it's D/C.
http://www.partsforscooters.com/169-27-Performance-CDI (http://www.partsforscooters.com/169-27-Performance-CDI)
I've ordered parts from these guys before and they were fairly quick with shipping. The other option is go to your local dealer and they may have one in stock or be able to get it in a day or two. The downside is they will want about $90!
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http://www.stadiumyamaha.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/default.aspx (http://www.stadiumyamaha.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/default.aspx) You can get the fact. cdi here. It's about 70 bucks delivered. You should get it in under a week. It is an AC fired cdi. Did you remove the jets to clean them or just blow the carb out after soaking? The reason I ask is I have never heard of a cdi that will idle, and not rev. It is possible I guess, but I still believe your problem is in the main circuit in the carb. Either way post , and let us know.
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yes I removed the main jet,both adj. screws and the float. I looked through the main jet and the hole was wide open both before and after i cleaned it.
I'm not sure what the readings are supposed to read on what scale but i posted both scales 200k & 2000k. it was a digital ohm meter also. I don't know if that makes a difference or not because both my analog meters are crapped out. I suppose just for the hell of it I'll get another analog meter and see what i get with that.
in the meantime I'm going to call around and see what I can do for a cheap cdi unit until I can a better one shipped from Taiwan.
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I would clean the carb again.
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The manual I have shows the cdi test as follows... 100 ohm range on the meter.. Bla/rd & bla/w=1~10 blu/yel & bla/rd=3~40 blu/yel & bla/wh=80~100 blu/yel & gre=10~30 gre & bla/re=2~10 gre & bla/wh=10~30. Set your meter to the value in the manual and give it another try. The sensitivity changes, and that will affect the reading. Did you also remove and clean the atomizer for the main jet? That is still where my money is at!
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That was my thinking too that it was/is a carb problem.
I unscrewed the main jet (is that the atomizer your talking about?), both adj. screws, removed the float, popped out the float valve and removes all the rubber gaskets. let it soak in carb. cleaner for awhile, blew everything out with the blow gun on my compressor, looked through the main jet to make sure it was clean, slapped it all back together, put all the hoses back on, readjusted the carb, reinstalled it and got the same results.
Then I started it back up, idles just fine. when i crack the throttle wide open it smokes out the back like its running rich, it seems as if I'm just not getting spark advance.
While I was holding the throttle wide open I sparayed some starter fluid in the carb and it stalled out rather than pick up rpms.
I held my hand over the opening in the carb. with my hand with the throttle wide open and it still ran alibeit MORE smoke out the muffler with gas dripping out the carb opening.
Which leads me to believe it has something to do with spark advance.
In a bit I'm just going to have to get an ohm meter with a 100k scale I guess. To check the CDI unit. I should post a YOUTUBE VIDDY of what I'm doing & what it sounds like.....
I just rechecked the CDI with a 100k scale ohm meter and out of the six reading only half were in spec. the other 3 were WAY off. Still don't know if I'm reading it right, but it doesnt look right to me.
CIMG3674.MOV (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s0r7_bzwHYg#normal)
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try puting ice on the cdi and see if that helps mine just started doin that
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I'll throw it in the freezer for a bit just like getting a hard drive to work.....HEY ITS WORTH A TRY !
Yours just started only idling and not accelerating too?
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yeah for the most part it will accelerate but not verry well
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As I read your post, I remembered the CDI in the freezer! I hooked it up and now it won't start AT ALL! I dunno, but I'm baffled!
I just checked for spark TOO and NOTHING now!
My guess since the only thing thats different was freezing the CDI unit that it has to be the CDI unit.
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It kinda sounds like it's running real rich and bogging. Have you tried pulling the exhaust off and starting it without? The exhaust may be partially plugged. Also try slowing covering the carb with your fingers when it's idling to see if you can get it too lean out a bit and rev up. It just seems odd to me that it would idle and have a bad cdi. I somewhat suspect something different, be it the stator or voltage regulator causing the cdi to go haywire, or something with the intake/exhaust system not flowing properly. Have you pulled the reed block off to inspect it?
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I may as well check the reeds and pull the exhaust, I have nothing to lose.
in my other CDI thread it was mentioned that I try icing the CDI. I figure putting Hard Drives in the freezer gets them to work long enough to pull the info off them why not CDI's so I froze my CDI and I got no spark @ all until it warmed up then it only idled as usual no matter what I did.
2morrow I'll look @ the reeds and pull the exhaust.
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That sounds like flooding to me also! You have a lot of pulsing noise. I just may change my bet (if I can ) to a broken reed. The vid is a great big help, as well as your description of how you cleaned the carb. It still could be low compression, or a hung ring, (same thing) but a broken reed will give the same symptom. Try a compression check too. It won't hurt to check these few things. The cdi in the freezer bugs me too. I can't figure why it would not start when cold except for the higher resistance of colder components. I am sure curious about this one!
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It kinda sounds like it's running real rich and bogging. Have you tried pulling the exhaust off and starting it without? The exhaust may be partially plugged. Also try slowing covering the carb with your fingers when it's idling to see if you can get it too lean out a bit and rev up. It just seems odd to me that it would idle and have a bad cdi. I somewhat suspect something different, be it the stator or voltage regulator causing the cdi to go haywire, or something with the intake/exhaust system not flowing properly. Have you pulled the reed block off to inspect it?
I don't know if you meant put my hand over the carb. a bit and see if I can get it to run richer & faster @ WOT?
If so I tried that and it idled as usual, my thinking was more gas more rpm's but no dice.
I have my list of things to do 2morrow....
Exiter coil/pulsar coil insp.
resistor insp.
reg/rectiffier insp.
A.C. generator (charging coil) insp.
insp. Reeds
insp. exhaust
Compression check
not necessarily in that order!
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You forgot a beer run! Just kidding. The hit list will go fast! Since you will be all into the scoot, Pull the flywheel, and clean the magnets w/ a bit of sandpaper. Same goes for the pulsar tip, and the trigger. I have seen poor performance due to grime on these surfaces. just not quite so bad.
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It doesn't flood UNTIL I put my hand over the opening in the carb. Otherwise it will just sound like its bogging @ WOT because I have the air filter off and it amplifying the extra air it's sucking in. When it's running and I spray starter fluid in it to try and get it to pick up RPM's it floods it out instead.
I'll have a better idea after I knock out the easy stuff like reeds,compression and muffler.
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OK ZX-50 fans here are the results to my.....Exhaust chk,reed chk and compression test.
Looking @ the reeds;
CIMG3675.MOV (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ha17uCab81s#normal)
exhaust ck
CIMG3676.MOV (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3I_jh8T7yUg#normal)
And compression test;
CIMG3677.MOV (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LQuc9-BH8hc#normal)
let me know what you guys think?
I'm in the process exciter/pulsar coil 80-160 ohms its reading 100 ohms
resistor A 9.9-10.5 ohms reading 7
resistor B 5.6-6.2 ohms reading 5
UPDATE....;
REGULATOR/RECTIFIER INSPECTION
BETWEEN A/B 3-10 ohms im reading 150 ohms
the other to readings I'm getting nothing @ all so I know me reg/rec is toast.
now I'm on to the rectifier so chew on this awhile.....LOL
FEEL FREE TO DIAGNOSE MY PROBLEM SO I CAN GET MY SCOOTS GOIN.......PLEASE!
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This is what has me thinking its the CDI.
This is just a small part of it but it idles fine until I move the CDI then it will just die.
CIMG3678.MOV (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yT97PgbzHA0#normal)
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It's your voltage regulator and the two resistors! I went through this same process with mine and thought it was the cdi as well. Replace those and I'm almost certain it will fix your problem!
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You spit that out like a answer for jeopardy or some sh*t SHAKA ! LOL
But did you see every time I moved the CDI iot stalled? It seemed if the CDI wasn't in the right position it would not spark/start.
Don't get me wrong, if I don't need to buy a CDI.......
You think thats the reason though why it won't accelerate?
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I'm pretty sure! A bad voltage seems to cause the cdi's to go haywire! At least that was my experience. When it happened to me, I could start it and it would idle, although not well. When I'd try to ride it it would barely go. It would studder and spit and only go about 15-20 mph. It progressively got worse to where it would barely start, basically where you are at now. Replace the regulator and those 2 resistor, they are cheaper than a cdi!
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COO,COO,COOL !
Will do then! Found a Kymco parts dealer right down the street, as long as their stealership prices aren't TOO BAD, I'll get them there!
i gots to wait till Monday 9A, thats when they open.
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I just looked at my receipt and I paid $30.49 for the regulator and 19.99 for the resistors. Good luck!
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Found a Kymco parts dealer right down the street
..dang...wish i had me one of those....
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There does appear to be a broken wire in the harness. The reg is obviously toast as the readings confirm. The cdi wire has to be isolated. If there is a break the AC voltage is high enough to JUMP that tiny gap. You were right all along rob.
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Lets not jump the gun yet !
It's no very easy trying to diagnose a problem if whatever is being worked on isn't sitting in front of someone seeing & hearing EXACTLY what it's doing. If I was a little more ambitious I would have pulled the front fairing of in the first place and checked that too instead of dragging my feet with the other stuff.
Without this forum I STILL would have no clue what was wrong with muh scoot!
Anywho I ordered the rectifier $32.82 + tax and both resistors $24.89 + tax I held off on the CDI (it was $52) hoping I can limp through until I can get one from SUTAI which reminds me.......It's 9a there now so Ima try to order one now!
I would have updated sooner but I went right to work on my pressure washer that blew up because the governor worked loose and snapped a rod.
I'll have another update Thursday.
Zombie I have another question for you.....Is the De-restricted CDI from SUTAI better than the regular CDI KYMCO one from the dealer? I already have the Ans to that one....the answer is YES!
Also I was reading the other thread where you said It would cost me $120 for a new CDI & ballast? What is this "ballast" your talking about and order from where?
Thank you ahead of time for the reply!
UPDATE.....; I just tried calling SUTIA in TIAPEI, TIAWAN and they gave me a number to China?
00986519100132 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting 00986519100132 end_of_the_skype_highlighting begin_of_the_skype_highlighting 00986519100132 end_of_the_skype_highlighting begin_of_the_skype_highlighting 00986519100132 end_of_the_skype_highlighting ?
AND that number is to IRAN....!
I can't get through with the number they gave me to ?China? they gave me. I tried calling Taiwan again and it sounds like a bunch of Taiwanese guys sitting around in a room NONE of whom speaks ENGLISH!
LOL Anyone speak TAIWANESE?
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Has anyone ordered a CDI from SUITAI recently or should I just order one from Scooter Assassins?
I'm getting kinda itchy to get one it the works if shipping is going to be a couple weeks........
I keep trying to get someone (anyone) that speaks english @ SUITAI but I'm having no luck @ all.
If I do get one from S.A. on ebay I'd like opinions on whether I should get the race CDI one or just the De-Restricted CDI. I know if you slightly advance the timing on a car that it will make it more "snappy". I'd like to run it stock and the only thing I might EVER do to it would be to buy a cast iron malossi cast iron cylinder kit (still keeping it stock) if my original jug cannot be bored. I want reliability not speed.
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I know I said I would post Thursday or Friday when the parts came in ......BUT..... no parts came in yet.
If I would have known that I would have ordered from bum fu*k Egypt or east fu*kin Baghdad or some god forsaken place like that!
Thats the last time I'll order from my LOCAL Kymco stealer!
If ya can't tell I'm PISSED!
Then the guy has the gall to cop an attitude because I called once Thursday and twice Friday because I was told FedEx hadn't come in yet.
The guy tells me " Did you pay by credit card?" YES "then we have your number and we'll call when the come in"
Well the reason I'm calling is BECAUSE I was told that the parts would be in Thursday and if not Thursday they would be here on Friday!
Well here it is Saturday and still no parts! and if the guy thinks I'm not going to call everyday of the week until they DO ARRIVE he's sorely mistaken!
I find 85% of the time the people that you count on to do their jobs DO NOT do their jobs unless I stay on top of them.
TO BE CONTINUED........................................!
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I feel your pain Rob. Dung Tsu is the person at suitai to contact. If you buy the scoot assassins one you will pay THREE times as much for the EXACT same unit, and still have to wait for it from Taiwan. I just waited 2 1/2 weeks for a part taht was quoted as in stockThe company is Power sports Max in S. El Monte Cali. They LIED when I ordered, and every time I called back for the following weeks. I informed them I post on the forum, and would send lots of business their way, or SLAM them if they did not come clean on the status of my order.... SLAM. Any way bite your tongue, and get the suitai cdi, as it is what scoot assassins sells.
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I tried calling SUITAI and all I got was what sounded like a bunch of guys sitting around having tea....I was passed around until I got a guy that at least could give me another telephone # but it was to IRAN. It sounded like they were saying CANADA though.
I tried asking for DUNG SUE (i guess that's how you would say phonetically in Chinese correct?) anyways I couldn't get anywhere by calling SUITAI directly by asking for him or any other way.
I will try again 2morrow night if you (ZOMBIE) have anymore suggestions....?
I looked @ scooter assassins price and it looked like it was $70 shipped and if there is $20 shipping on the $40 part from SUITAI it would be like $60 right so thats only like $10 more?
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OK peoples,
The parts came in (rectifier & resistors) same condition as before, will only idle & not accelerate. So it looks like I'm in for A CDI now too.
I'm going to try & get one from SUITAI but if my luck in reaching an english speaking persons holds the same I'm going to have to order one from scooter assasins.
Can anyone give me any other ideas in trying to order from SUITAI ?
Maybe even total price with shipping from SUITAI, because if its only $10.00 more from scooter assasins (I'M srry it's not $70.00 from S/A its $70.00 from dragonparts0204) I might just try and AVOID the WHOLE HASSLE of trying SUITAI.
Has anyone done business with this "dragonparts0204" on eBay because like I said if the art is only $10 more (if anyone can confirm the $60.00 price from SIUTAI) I'll just order from dragonparts0204 unless anyone has a reason why I shouldn't.
I just want to get this thing ordered, GET IT & START SCOOTIN!
THANKS AHEAD OF TIME FOR YOUR REPLY'S !!!!!!!!
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Since I have nothing better to do I tested the NEW rectifier & I'm get NO reading on ANYTHING. At least on the OLD rectifier I got a reading between 2 posts!
I dunno now...... ???
D'oH !
I was reading on the wrong scale.
I also found that dragonparts0204 & Scooter Assasins are one in the same.
Now all that I need is confirmation that ebay item #180519108348 is the same thing I would get from SUITAI ?
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Sorry for the delay. The last I saw the scoot assassins cdi was 129.00 bucks, but if they got "real" and lowered the price all the better. Jaxbeachjon had the same issue w/ "no speeke the english" but did get thru. I had no issues once I got a person on the phone. Can you post a link for the cdi you found? The reg/rectifier is easiest to test on the "diode" test on most meters. If yours doesn't have that setting then a continuity test is almost the same. You will read a short between two of the pins, and when reversed the short will be open. You should find two pins that will short w/ one common. In the end tho the only circuit the regulator affects is the secondary lighting, and the charging circuit for the battery. Anyway if the cdi is the one scoot assassins has been selling in the past I would say go for it. I only found the Suitai cdi because MONTHS of looking for a reasonable cost replacement lead nowhere.
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LINK for CDI on eBay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FULL-POWER-CDi-BOX-KYMCO-ZX50-zx-50-fever-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2a07c6fefcQQitemZ180519108348QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FULL-POWER-CDi-BOX-KYMCO-ZX50-zx-50-fever-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2a07c6fefcQQitemZ180519108348QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories)
and I'm in the process of buying it now.
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That's the suitai cdi. They did get real! Even if the falsely state the oem price. That used to be THEIR price! Go for it!
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WOOHOO !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Gots my CDI today in the mail and hooked it up really quick and IT ACCELERATES!!
This was even W/O the resistors and the rectifier hooked up (because I was so excited to get the CDI I forgot to check if they were hooked up).
ANYWHOOO it's all together with a sparkling CLEAN carbatooter and spark plug and running GREAT!!!!!!
Who woulda thunk it was the CDI making it not accelerate?
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That's awesome Rob!!! ;D
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Great stuff mate, double bonus here, not only have you got your scoot going again, (yaaay), but now we are all a little wiser to some of the more unusual effects of a buggered C.D.I..
Congrats. :)
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..awesome...luv those success stories...