KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 125 to 300 => Downtown 300 => Topic started by: tvniklas on October 04, 2016, 07:53:32 PM
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Hello
Im having trouble at takeoff all the time warm as cold engine.
The scooter rattles and shakes very much in the takeoff moment and then goes fine.
It always starts and have fine throttle at 15-1600.
Ive had some fine tips here like tune up the cvt, but i dont have the tools yet to do it myself.
Ive talked to the workshop today (also the official Kymco dealer in Sweden) and he said it´s probaly the spring, and they have changed it on a couple of Downtowns,
to a stronger one.
Anybody who have done that and solved this kind of problem?
I wonder if its worth the money leaving the scooter to them, or better to wait for tools to do my own tune up?
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Do you start away from a stop with a gentle throttle, or more powerful throttle?
Burgman's require a lot more throttle twist to prevent clutch chatter and jerking. They do not like a gentle take-away.
This seats the clutch sooner - with less slipping & jerking.
Or does your scooter do this shaking with every kind of throttle hand you try?
Stig
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If it were me, I would take the clutch bell off and lightly sand the glazing off of the clutch shoes, blow all the dust out of the clutch assembly, and put it back together. And like Stig says, give it more throttle on take-off.
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Do you start away from a stop with a gentle throttle, or more powerful throttle?
Burgman's require a lot more throttle twist to prevent clutch chatter and jerking. They do not like a gentle take-away.
This seats the clutch sooner - with less slipping & jerking.
Or does your scooter do this shaking with every kind of throttle hand you try?
Stig
It doesnt matter Stig
If i do it aggressive it stops sooner , gentle its longer.
Mr Paul
If im able to make a tool tomorrow i will try, but i only have wood. No steel home
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You may be able to make a tool with a piece of wood and two bolts run through it. Hope you get it sorted out.
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I am with both Stig and Mr. Paul. I have had two DT300i and neither have been as bad on takeoff as you describe. The first had a "judder" which was solved like Mr. Paul described. As far as changing springs, variators, weights or anything, one needs to accept they have entered into R & D and must write everything down and take pictures, put it all in a binder to PROVE that each change they made advanced them to the initial goal.
Karl
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I am with both Stig and Mr. Paul. I have had two DT300i and neither have been as bad on takeoff as you describe. The first had a "judder" which was solved like Mr. Paul described. As far as changing springs, variators, weights or anything, one needs to accept they have entered into R & D and must write everything down and take pictures, put it all in a binder to PROVE that each change they made advanced them to the initial goal.
Karl
Hello boys
Today i decided to open the cvt and clean the whole thing.
I ran into big problems with the housing, it was stuck like..
First i took a rubber hammer , nothing happend, then i took a screwdriver and a hammer and finally it loosend :-)
It was a little bit dirty but mostly dust.
I have a tool for the clutch from my AGilty 50 but i noticed that it was to small and when i couldnt loosen that, i didnt make a tool for the variator and decided to go to the shop to see if they can help me.
When i drove away i remembered i read somewhere here in the DT forum (Thank you unknown, CORTEZ?) that you can ,(when engine is warm) give full throttle and the same time full break for a second and then slowly loosen the breaks.
Well it worked quit well, the rattle and shaking was very much reduced, so i went shopping instead happy :-)
So i guess it is dirt in the clutch that causes my problem, so i will make a proper tuneup as soon i get the tools.
Thanks a lot for all tips and time boys!
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I thought Sweden drove on the right-hand side of the road but your DT has the CVT on the right......would not think they would reverse the whole drive train.....they musta sold you one of those UK scoots! I think I need a nap.
Karl
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Yep. When you get the chance just lightly sand the glazing off the clutch pads and clean inside the clutch bell and your problem should be completely solved. I am glad to hear the problem is already better.
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Yep. When you get the chance just lightly sand the glazing off the clutch pads and clean inside the clutch bell and your problem should be completely solved. I am glad to hear the problem is already better.
Thanks, so happy it works 😄
Took it to work this morning in 2degrees C, uhh frezzeing, but the engine is running fine 🖒
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i shall try this sanding idea as well
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i shall try this sanding idea as well
I would say its an good temporary fix, but open up and clean is the thing!
I just found out that we have a brand new Electric impact wrench.(its 1000w and 450nm
Will tha work or does it need to be air driven for variator and clutch?
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I use a cheap electric impact wrench on mine. It works great! Just be careful not to over-tighten the nuts when you re-assemble everything.
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What rating of a electric impact wrench should one buy?
Would it being a different rating for a air impact wrench?
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What rating of a electric impact wrench should one buy?
Would it being a different rating for a air impact wrench?
Here's the one I use;
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-heavy-duty-electric-impact-wrench-68099.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-heavy-duty-electric-impact-wrench-68099.html)
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I use a cheap electric impact wrench on mine. It works great! Just be careful not to over-tighten the nuts when you re-assemble everything.
Thanks Paul, great answer.
As you say, you need to be careful when re assemble and what i understand, they dont have any stops and are very powerful, so the best is to do it by hand and then i must have the holding tool .
Or im i thinkin wrong?
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You are thinking absolutely correct. The correct way is to use a torque wrench. But if you have a lot of wrenching experience, you could just it for yourself. You do not want the nuts to come loose while riding but do not want to risk stripping the bolts. Best of luck to you and hope you get more riding in before it gets any colder there!
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Ok, so the problem came back sneaking up upon me.
So i decided to make a proper tune up since i now got my new DrPulley15g and gear to make a tool for the variator.
Removed everything so i could see the variator, and clutch and it didnt lookdirty at first sight.
I borrowed an eletric wrench tool, but i realised i could not use it, i needed to make the tool first and see if it works, hard time if i release the nuts and aint albe to get them back 😆.
Took about 45 min to make the tool and it worked great.
Loosend the variator and keept my fingers aroun it so the weights dont fall out, turned it upside down later and nothing happens, took a closer look and saw 3mm thick dirt everywhere on it, took about 10min to clean it up.
I must say im suprised it even it worked it was really stuck.
The clutch took also a cleaning and sandpapering, was glazy..
Now it works again and the machine is so much nicer and smoother at takeoff, but now with quicker acc.
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Nice work with the tool, and the stalling fix.
Sent from my Samsung Note 3 with Tapatalk
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Nice work with the tool, and the stalling fix.
Sent from my Samsung Note 3 with Tapatalk
Thanks xsel777!
Forgot to post the dirty variator pic
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Great job! Thanks for the update.
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How many miles do you have on this?
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How many miles do you have on this?
Just above 3000
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Here's the one I use;
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-heavy-duty-electric-impact-wrench-68099.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-heavy-duty-electric-impact-wrench-68099.html)
I probably should have bought that one....I went with the 12V one that cost hslf that price....after watching a guy a youtube using it.
Does not often "impact"...
.just spins.
Did work first tried on a Burgman using spare 12V scooter battery!....then problems on my LIKE200I.
Live & learning still....
Stig
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Hi there . For my dt 300 , I have swapped my oem clutch to Dr pulley HIT clutch . In my opinion the rattling problem during takeoff can be eliminated my using sand paper on the bell , but this is a temporary fix , for better results the 3 springs in the clutch should be changed to either new springs of same strength , or a better solution ,a harder set of springs , and the result is in delaying the opening of the clutch shoes , there is no rattling and the takeoff is smooth as butter .
also for removing the variator nuts , I use a 18v dewalt impact wrench , and it does the job very well , no messing around. And to put back the nuts I use the variator holding tool and a torque wrench . For front variator nut torque to 93 n-m , and for back pulley nut 54n-m. Hope that helps. 8)