KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 50cc => Agility 50 => Topic started by: shubonker on June 11, 2010, 01:12:30 AM
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There's a rubber tube that connects to the old big clunky air filter, now it doesn't connect to anything after installing my new uni filter. What to do with it??
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..that big ole rubber tube is the valve cover vent...which ultimately provides "positive crankcase ventilation"...
..there are a cpl theories as to what should be done with that tube, when installing an aftermarket filter....
..i've doubled mine back, secured it with a cable tie and that's all...i keep the end of the tube cleaned, as it accumulates an oily residue around it...
..however, i've been hanging out a bit at scooterinvasion forum some, and they swear that you need that PCV to keep the gy6 piston pressure reduced on it's down-stroke...
..which makes sense....
..haven't made the mod yet, but i've all the items i need to try that theory out...
..i've read that it frees up the piston's downstroke, if you have a vacuum on the crankcase...gonna give it a try, because it's basiclly a free performance mod if it works..
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damnit my scoot wont start!
I put in a new main jet. Put everything back, and now it doesnt start. What gives??
I accidentally took out the slow jet, thinking it was the main jet. I put it back in til it stops, and turned out two turns.
Everything seems to be hooked up, i dont understand why it won't start, help??
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..okay, slow down...
..what did you do to your main jet size??
..increase, ....i would suppose...why,... and from what size to the other??
..did you suck the tube?
..you gotta suck the tube after you drain your bowl....
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i went from stock to 97 main jet with a free flow air filter.
What tube am i sucking?? The one thats on the bottom of the carb?
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..no, not that tube...there are vacuum lines that form a "T" on the right side of your scoots frame...about middle-ways of the under-seat compartment...one t goes to your carb, one t goes to the reed valve for recirculation, and the other t goes to the fuel pepcock...
..that tube opens the flow of fuel when vacuum is applied to it, allowing fuel thru the filter, into your carb...
..pull this leg of the tubing loose from the T, and suck it....you will see fuel flow thru the filter, into the bowl on your carburetor...
..suckin' th' tube....gotta do it any time you drain your carb...
peace
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Ha!Hopefully the vac line to the petcock.the main should not change your starting,make sure the slide is moving also'I'v had them stick wideopen when not paying attention to needle alignment
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..i think shubonker has just changed a jet for the first time, art...
;D
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im sucking the tube that leads to the pepcock like u said but its like not doing anything. Do i have to suck on it for awhile? when i try to start it, it sounds like a little different now, but it wont start.
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..it only takes a cple draws...
..try kick-starting it...
..also, if this does not work, make sure you assembled the bowl back onto the carb with the gasket seated perfectly...
..that happened to me once, when there was one 1/16th inch of the gasket out of place...
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..and put that T assembly back together before attempting startup...
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...plug wire connected??
..i've forgotten that before too...
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Gota start somwhere ;DMy vespa vbb 175 cc bb kit just showed up had go look'Its Sweet!
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kick starting started it but it died when i tried to ride it, and now it wont start again. there was no gasket between the carb and float cover.
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I't takes quite a few cranks.My people battery will die before it starts usually,You can cheat with some quike start.use sparingly
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kick starting started it but it died when i tried to ride it, and now it wont start again. there was no gasket between the carb and float cover.
yes there is..there has to be a seal from atmoshpere...the bowl cannot seal metal to metal...
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What color is it? I'm pretty sure there wasn't anything when i took it out.
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...where that bowlcomes off...the screw i'm taking out, there is a black rubber seal that fits inside the grooves of the bowl...
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the bottom side of thecarb is smooth...
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Did you possibly just flood it.Hold throttle open and kick or pull plug kick while out clean and replace.Make sure you have spark.
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I'll open up the carb again, and check.
Art, what do you mean? Can you elaborate, i'm not sure what you're suggesting.
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...yup...but it died after he had it running from a kick-start...
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I also had taken the auto bystarter off the carb and put it back in, could that be anything?
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Opening the throttle wide open while kicking over will help clear the cylinder if you had to much gas there.making the spark plug wet so wont fire.probably best to pull plug and look make sure it has spark.I have also been through this before after changes and forget the basics.No gas in tank Doe!
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I also had taken the auto bystarter off the carb
..could be...there's a seal there also...two of them...never remove that if you can help it...cut it's cabling restraints to give yourself more freedom of movement...
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...i'm the world's worst at forgetting the spark plug wire...i'll be crankin and crankin and i'm like...wtf???
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Check wires from bystarter to harnes they don't give allot of play may have disconected when removed.You can choke it manually,If all else fails.Got to go with basics first must have fuel/then good spark
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Thanks guys, really appreciate the help. I got it running and boy... the increase in acceleration on the low end was all worth it.
Just a few things i want to tweak before taking it on a trip away from the house. So i have a few questions:
1. The scoot idles kind of funny (see video: http://shubonker.vox.com/library/video/6a0137e0f089a3860f0137a4b9d263860c.html (http://shubonker.vox.com/library/video/6a0137e0f089a3860f0137a4b9d263860c.html) I'm not touching the throttle at all ). It'll go up and down, and occassionally stay up and occassionally stay down like its about to die, but it doesnt die. I've played with the throttle screw on the carb and it doesn't seem to help. Any suggestions?
2. The carb doesn't want to stay all the way in the intake manifold (see picture). What can i do? I tightened the screw all the way in, yet it won't stay in. At this point it won't come out anymore though which is good.
(http://a1.vox.com/6a0137e0f089a3860f0137e00f32a1860e-500pi)
View Bigger -> http://a1.vox.com/6a0137e0f089a3860f0137e00f32a1860e-pi (http://a1.vox.com/6a0137e0f089a3860f0137e00f32a1860e-pi)
3. Could not get the little spark plug out (plus i bought the wrong ones, way too big). My deep sockets are not "deep" enough. How the heck do you get it out?
Other than that, i'm golden. Thanks a bunch!
Need to hit up the home depot tomorrow after work to pick up a big ass torx screw driver to get the exhaust off so i can slap on my Next R pipe on that bitch.
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..!!!!!DO NOT RUN IT UNTIL YOU GET THE CARB INTO THE INTAKE!!!!!!
..could burn a piston!!!
..loosen the clamp ALL THE WAY..there are tabs to get the clamp in the corrrect position...really shove that suckerr hard into the intake..
..you will feel it go by a ridge, then seat itself in the intake manifld..
..then tighten the clamp until you can't tighten any more..
..that's thecause of your idle problem, but you will probanbly need to re-adjust the mix once you get the carb seated..
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They should have given you a wrench for the plug under seet.I don't have that model so don't know.
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I did get the carb all the way in, but while riding, it came out. I'll try it again and see what happens. The screw that tightens the band around the manifold is getting stripped (sh**ty screw). Anyone know what size it is?
Art, i think i know what you're talking about. It did come with some sort of long hex looking thing, i'll try it out. Thanks.
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Believe it or not thats what its there for.Should fit your tire lug also.Had an old dirt bike could not get plug out without the cheasy factory wrench.
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The idle going up and down is a vacuum leak. You have to find that before riding. Try getting a regular hose clamp for the manifold. it may clear it up for you
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So i got the carb to go into the manifold nice and tight. Rode it for about half an hour to test it out and it didn't pop out or anything this time. However, i'm still having a problem with the idle. It'll die if i let it idle, any ideas?
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zipties and duck tape.lol
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..the idle mixture needs to be adjusted...that's the screw on the left side of your carb...
..fire it up, and let her get good and warm...
..turn the screw clockwise, at 1/4 trn increment, gigging the throttle a cpl times after each turn.. until idle reaches it's highest idle speed...then turn it out counter clockwise 1/4 turn...
..adjust the idle speed screw until you get the desired idle rpm...
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so i took the carb apart again and put it back together again. It fixed the idle problem, but noq i've lost top end speed. Topping out around 37. Plus it doesnt sound as loud as it was before when it had the idle problem. What to do?
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..ok, you're baffling me...
:o ??? :o ??? :o ??? :o
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Plugged main jet?
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..needle not opening up??
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how do i check if the needle is opening up?
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So i got the carb to go into the manifold nice and tight. Rode it for about half an hour to test it out and it didn't pop out or anything this time. However, i'm still having a problem with the idle. It'll die if i let it idle, any ideas?
..umm why did you dis-assemble your carb...
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I just took off the cover, and undid the main and slow jets and screwed them back in. And made sure the gasket was nice and lined up. I thought it might have a leak somewhere since it kept dying when idle. Now the idle problem is fixed, just lost that top end speed. Perhaps my pilot screw needs to be adjusted?
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...might be some trash.....
..wow....
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Hmm what do you suggest? This kind of sucks. :(
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...hate to say it, but i reckon if it were me in your situation, i'd take it apart again..
..and believe me dude...i've been where you are...
..if you have some spray carb cleaner, that would be awesome...
..protect your eyes and spray th' crap into every port you can find...
..it takes only a tiny spec to inhibit flow...
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...pilot screw has no effect on top speed..
..only idle and just off idle response...
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Damnit, it was so much better when it had the idle problem, lol.
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..i think you fixed the cause of the idle fluctuation problem by fitting the carb securely in the intake manifold tube...
..then i would suspect that the reason it would shut down at idle was because the idle mix was way off...
..now, i dunno what's happened since you dissed your carb again, but it sounds like something's outta whack....
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Discombobulated?
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..lmao..yeah, what sid said...
;D
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So i asked around some more and did a little more research. I'm pretty sure its not a clogged jet, otherwise it would be erratic rather then having loss in top end. I believe that the main jet size is far too big creating a overly rich mixture causing the carb to flood at 3/4 to WOT. After reading the plug, its a bit rich, pretty dark.
Going from the original 80 main jet, to 97, i was supposed to add the exhaust pipe as well but have not been able to due to the torx bit that i need. So what i'll do is try and get the torx bit and add the exhaust, and also a smaller main jet in case the 97 is still too big.
I think the confusion here is that slinger has a k&n filter and has a 100+ something main jet. I thought i would need something that big too, but my uni filter probably doesn't suck as much air as the k&n.
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The pipe is the difference Your uni should suck fine your stock pipe cant blow fast enouph.An #85 or so till you get the pipe changed.
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K&N filters are better than most unifilters on market those filters are made especial for performance so it is logic that you will need a bigger mainjet than other filters and I think thats why slinger has the biggest main jet
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..i'm not sure why my scoot has always required a larger jet than some others...
..at 97, without a performance exhaust, then i would bet you'r too rich
..does yur scoot feel like it's falling forward as you reach top speed??
..that's one symptom of a rich setup...
..plug chops don't lie...
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Shub, bring your main jet back down around 85. That should square you away.
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So i was able to find a pack of torx bits in a street fair of all places where they were selling assortments of different tools.
I installed the technigas exhaust and took a test ride. Seemed quite a bit peppier off the line and makes a nice sound, but really not much louder than original. Did not see any gains on the top end, i'm beginning to think its my 5g rollers keeping my top speed down about 42mph on a flat.
Afterwards i took the spark plug out and half was brown and half was white. Too lean i thought. Now i must up jet...
Here's pic of new exhaust:
(http://a6.vox.com/6a0137e0f089a3860f01347f02ca5e860b-500pi)
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That looks real nice on there!
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Thanks, here's a better pic:
And btw, if you're looking to change the exhaust on your guilty 50s, the torx bit is t45.
(http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/1087/technigas.jpg) (http://img337.imageshack.us/i/technigas.jpg/)
Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)
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Hmm, i upjetted to around 108 with my trusty torch tip cleaners, yet still the plug is half brown and half white. Probably too lean right?
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You may need to richen the needle and pilot jets also.Looks Great.I would go up a bit on the roller weights mayby even back to stock should give you clue where to go from there
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.......wwwowwwww...me like that...........
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Yea where do they sell pilot jets for these little carbs?
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Do you know the model the keihin pb is kind of a pain in the ass.
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Yep, its CK50QT-5
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Oh boy!I'm not familiur with that one.I'll see what i can find
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Yea where do they sell pilot jets for these little carbs?
..there's a direct link to these jets in the A50 board...inna cpl places...somewhere....
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Only sights i can find are in german
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...maybe taipeiscooterassassins....scooterworks...
..there is a site that has oem jets....i was amazed to find it, but there IS a link or two in the A50 board....
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Actually i think i just need to raise my needle, know where i can find washers or o rings to do that? What size exactly do i need to do it. Thanks.
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You are on the right track shub. Just out of curiosity... try Indexing your plug. Mark where the electrode points to on the ceramic, and using an old plug gasket if needed try to get the end of the electrode to face the exhaust port. This may help w/ the 1/2 color problem. I sounds like you have a hot spot in the chamber. If that dosent show any result, then a colder plug may be in order. (1 step colder=1 number higher)
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I had to go from a br8 to a 9,colder plug with my setup.I don't think theres much more than a 1/16" in the needle slide,once you figure the diamiter of washer I'd get a veriety to try out.The plumming department might have some of the thinner washers you need.
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You can also use tiny fuel proof "O" rings.
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So i'm not quite sure whats going on right now. I put in a new spark plug and rode it around for 12miles, yet the ceramic is still white as if it were new. Doing a plug run, i went full throttle for about 20 seconds, then hit the engine kill switch. With a flashlight i shined it down the plug and its all white, could not see a hint of any smoke rings or anything like that. Am i doing something wrong?
I suspect that the main jet at about 105 (via torch tip cleaners) is way too big. Full throttle seems to get me up to 30-40mph quite slower than before.
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Shub!!! YOU ARE ABOUT TO BE WALKING! TOOOOOO LLLEEEAAAANNNNN! Don't worry about the size just make it work. Go up maybe two sizes on the main. One at a time, but you need to see residue on the plug.
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Damn. Okay, i'll upjet some more and see what happens. Thanks.
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So i up jet to about 120 yet the plug still has no color or residue. is it possible that a leak between exhaust and engine cause a lean condition?
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Now i have no idea whats wrong. I swamped out the exhaust back to the old one. Did a test run. Still NOTHING on the plug. So we have 120 main jet with uni filter as the only mods on a stock agility 50...
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that is wrong :)) I think the carb could be to small for that jet size ...
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Stic. may be right. There may be a vacuum leak at or near the carb. too. What spark plug are you using? It HAS to show something! The pipe would not make that kind of a difference.
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Using NGK C7HSA, its a kymco part from the dealer.
Where could the leak be?
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Run the engine, and spray some soapy water around the intake manifold/carb.mount/auto choke. if there is a leak the idle will drop off. the plug is ok so I think thete is a leak somewhere... Maybe not but you should see SOME color on the plug.
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..shub, you had te problem with the carb seating into the intake...
..are you sure there is no damage to the intake??
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..it's possible that the hose clamp has cut the intake, or you cracked it when you were trying to hoss the carb into it...
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Going to check for some leaks with wd40. What would the manifold be listed under from stadium yamaha? Can't find it under carburetor.
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"http://www.stadiumyamaha.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/default.aspx"
..part #17110 or 1711A for the seal too...under cylinder head..
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i sprayed wd40 at a bunch of places i thought could be leaking but none of which had any effect on idle... Took out the untake and there is no cracks on it at all. Btw, the line on the bottom of the carb doesnt connect to anything right?
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Thats just an overflow for the float bowl. it should point to the ground, and not be near anything that will get hot. Any chance you can put a vacuum gauge on the scoot?
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..on the A50 oem carb that's the bowl drain tube, z...
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That's what I said W
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..the carb i bought to replace the oem has a drain tube..for draining the bowl, and an overflow tube...the oem only has the drain tubing...
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AHHHHHHHHH FLUCKALUFLDKFLDIUKFLUC<FLUCK
Stripped the bolt on the intake manifold, now it just spins and spins... Now it won't start for anything. So pissed off, going to bring it to the shop to let them fix it. I can't handle it anymore!
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...damn dude....but i think youve been suckin air after your carb...only thing that makes any sense....
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Yea i did suck on that hose like before, but the problem is the manifold doesn't stick closed completely due to the stripped bolt. So there is massive leak and it won't even bother starting.
Will let them see where the vac leak was, this is too much for me now.
I was too happy before crusing at 45mph with 30 dollar upgrades.... Ssigh...
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...itsa live and learn thing...
..my scoot is dragging ass right now..
..appears that i have a final drive bearing failure....
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Your 45000km to my 600km lol
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...49,000...but i didn't even start mods until after 30,000...don't sweat the small stuff...you're gonna get this intake issue resolved, and then you'll know just what to do, and what not to do...
..i've learned from the school of hard knocks m'self shub....
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You gonna bring ur scoot to the shop to fix the bearing prob or DIY?
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..oh, imma do it myself...experience is ever the best teacher...
..aannd..i don't know of any shop around here that id trust th' old girl with....
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Geeze mate, you were going so well with it too, oh well, final drive bearing is only a small setback for you. :)
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Shub! Don't wuss out now. You can buy a Heli Coil KIT for under 20. bucks. You will get 3-4 little spring looking inserts, a tool to install them, a tap of the correct size, and an exact size recommend for the drill bit you need. This is what the shop SHOULD do. Insert a Heli Coil. The new threads are hardened steel that will NOT STRIP once installed. If you want more info on how easy it is to do just ask. I know you are pissed right now, but don't give up, How are you gonna get it all if you stop in the middle. Lots of us couldn't change a spark plug at one point. I think thebatman struggled w/ the kill switch for months...(which way means start). Thanks Bat! Set it aside for a few days/go to town/pick up a little strange (easier since you won't be riding the scoot), and get to it on a day w/ nothing else to do. I would suggest getting either OMC Perfect Seal, or Indian Shellac. They are fuel proof gasket sealers that will allow your parts to seal air-tite, w/out over torquing anything. If you have "O" rings, just put the sealer on the ring BEFORE you put it into the grove.
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I second that, the helicoils are the way to go. You also learn as you go and the satisfaction of having done the job yourself. Just take a minute to cool down and then tackle it with a calm attitude. All the best.
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Hey Shub. Say knock knock...
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Not quite sure how this heli coil thing works?
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How to Repair Threads With A Heli-Coil Insert (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RFYa6sjhh_E#normal)
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Eeee seems a bit scary... I'm not sure if its the double sided bolt thats stripped or the nut thats on top of the bolt.
(http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/7604/aaaso.jpg) (http://img231.imageshack.us/i/aaaso.jpg/)
Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)
The nut just turns in place, so does that mean the nut has gone? How could i get the nut out?
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hey if its the top threads its pretty common you can just replace the stud,to get you by right now you can put 2 to 3 washer over the stud to get you to some better threads and just snug them down piece of cake ;D
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Art is right, and to remove it you can drive a putty knife under the nut, and pry up as you twist it w/ a wrench. Sometimes a pair a vise grips will help too
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Should those nuts be really tight? Because i'm scared to strip the other one...
Thanks guys, i think i'm going to try to do this myself.
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Not really tight at all. Thts why I recommend sealer. You can just snug them up, and be sure it is sealed. I would say 4 ft lbs torque is plenty
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Alright, so i got the damn nut off with a dremel in just under 2 hours. My back is killing me, but i feel great that i got the damn thing out.
Now, how do i go about taking out the stud? Its completely useless now that i've taken a dremel to it:
(http://a6.vox.com/6a0137e0f089a3860f0137a595cfa6860d-500pi)
There is a spacer between my manifold and cylinder. Well... there was:
(http://a7.vox.com/6a0137e0f089a3860f01347f04ffaf860b-500pi)
(http://a4.vox.com/6a0137e0f089a3860f0137e012e8fc860e-500pi)
Apparently i torqued it down way too much and the plastic spacer cracked. Without the spacer, the carb is way too close to the cylinder. Guess i will have to order a spare. The o-ring on the manifold inlet is broken, could i use liquid gasket as a substitute? And btw, is liquid gasket the same thing as sealer?
Thanks guys, i just needed to cool my head before i could get back to fixin' this thing.
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The plastic spacer will need to be replaced or at least sealed, you dont want an air leak there, replace the o-ring, not expensive. The stud should just screw right out and you should be able to get one at your local hardware store or auto store. Good luck, it can be frustrating but is worth it.
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The stud is on there pretty tight. My big pliers just keep slipping. Whats a tool that could get it out?
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Try heating it with a heat gun on high. Use a big pair of vise-grips to grab it. With that method you should be able to get it out relatively easily.
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A little heat will help and some pb blaster penitrating oil,if there are enouph threads left I usualy use two nuts tighten them to each other then back the stud out.You could cut some new threds for this to get it off or if you have the dremmal tool cut some flat spots to get a better grip on the stud,be sure to plug that intake first don,t want to go from bad to worse.Your almost there.
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Damnit, heat gun, wd40, and clamps don't work. Need to get myself a vice-grip. Meanwhile, i'm waiting for the spare parts to ship from taiwan... expected arrival date is in july. UGH!
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..dang shub...feel your pain...
..taiwan??
..stadium yahama is quicker....
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Yea i ordered from them. Estimated delivery is july 2-13th............. Lol. Fix your scoot yet?
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I just noticed your avatar is very fitting right now. Those studs should have lock tite on them so you may need to use a propane torch to really heat it up.
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Hmm, the other stud came out without any problems. I bought a stud remover, see if that works.
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Estimated delivery is july 2-13th............. Lol. Fix your scoot yet?
..wow...
..no, i'm focusing on getting the ppl running first...gotta have a ride before i can tear into my guilty..
..i'm beginning to wonder if the problem is actually in the final drive though..it's doing some different stuff now...
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...shub...what's the word...see you here but you ain't talkin...
here..look at them...
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HAHA, i just had the page open. Was doing some other browsing. Bought myself a Haynes Scooter Repair book, its got pictures ;D
Think i'll give my dealer a call on tues and see if they have one in stock.
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..you reckon the seal cracked when you was tryin to get the carb in??
..how did that all come about..
..i've been a bit pre-occupied lately...
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Slingr I thought you were a dude! Do you have a spare room?
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...yeah...as long as i can ride your zx to work...i wouldn't have to get up so damned early in th' mornin's....
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..you reckon the seal cracked when you was tryin to get the carb in??
..how did that all come about..
..i've been a bit pre-occupied lately...
Not really sure when it cracked, sucks regardless.
I agree with zombie, you've got a nice rack.
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You made me choke shub!
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..i like my rack i reckon...mhhmm....
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what rack means ?
I don't know what is with that picture of slinger but I think that complete a perfect body :))
(http://www.totalprosports.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/panama-cricket-girls.jpg)
Cheers !!
(http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h16/auroraohio/beer_girls.jpg)
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;D
Good news, i found the parts i needed from partsforscooters.com. They have the spacer i needed, and i ordered some 6mm bolts off ebay. Using bolts to replace the stud and nut is okay right?
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Yes and no if you strip it again your in for tap and die or heily coils.They will get you by but would order the studs and replace later
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Cool bananas mate, if you look around auto parts stores and hardware stores you should find studs to suit.
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I have NEVER seen anything like that Stic. WWWOOOWWW! Rack is slang for a great set of JUGS. The other 1/2 of yours
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...wowwww...them's some hips from hell...
...that girl could birth a 25 pound baby....
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:)) and they play something :)) cricket ... no wonder how is so popular there :)) I wonder if at the end of the game they change T-shirts with advers team :))
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...t-shirts??
..i was thinking hows she gonna peel outta those tights.....
..hhhmmm...
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Got my stud remover today and used it to remove that damn stud. Didn't even have to hold my breath and it came off in 15 seconds. 7 bucks well spent.
Waiting on my manifold gasket which comes in tomorrow afternoon! Can't wait.
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..yeah, need to get your ass back on th' road!!
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Yay!
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Got my new intake manifold and a new spacer. Laced each connection point with some Liquid Gasket, now i got orange goo everywhere. Hooked up everything. Now waiting an hour for the Liquid Gasket to cure. Then i shall try to fire it up.
WISH ME LUCK
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...go shubo!..go shubo!..go shubo!...
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Good luck.
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It won't start :(
What should i do?
I sucked on the vaccum line and eventually sucked out some gas, is that normal? Kick start won't turn the engine over either.
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You should not get fuel from the vac line.kickstart not turning over is not good either.did you do any cvt stuff recently,might want to take a look in there,and hope nothing went down the intake while you had it opened up.
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...where are you sucking shubonker?
..there's a T in the vacuum lines strapped to the right side fame...one leg goes to the fuel pepcock...
..you should take that line loose at the T..
..if you're getting fuel there, then you have a faulty pepcock...
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I got it going again, some of that liquid gasket crap got stuck in one of the jets. However, there is still a vacuum leak somewhere and i can't find it.
Symptoms:
- Idle goes way down
- Runs poorly, doesn't accelerate fast or get up to 45mph like it used to be able to
- Spark plug is whiteeee
Attempted to use WD40 with mixed results. Spraying certain areas got the RPM going up but if i attempt it a second time in the same place, it doesn't seem to work.
If i spray an area, how many seconds would you think that i should wait before the RPM changes?
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..okay, what are your mods...lets start over, because i can't remember everything you've done..
;D
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at the moment:
- Changed stock air filter to uni free flow filter.
- Changed stock exhaust to Tecnigas Next R
- Changed Main Jet from 80 to 88
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..jet should be a 95 at least!!!!!!
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..de-restricted the cdi and variator??
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ya! thats small. running a #115 in the people and its to lean
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Will never know if i'm lean or rich while theres a vacuum leak about :(
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..de-restricted the cdi and variator??
Yep
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..i KNOW you're lean!!!!!
..don't ride long without opening that jet!!!!
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..remember, your scoot is the same build as mine, and i was running a 102, with just the filter and stock exhaust!!
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Alright i'll change to my 110, meanwhile, how to solve this vacuum leak problem :(
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..i'm not so sure there is any other problem other than you are WAAAAy lean...
..110 might make it too rich....
..i would start at 95-98....do chops, then adjust from there...
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once the jet is in it should respond a bit better.the wd,carb cleaner or soapy water to trace the air leek,if you hit it it should change idle immediatly.
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...shubonker??
..what's th' word brother???
..you scootin'??
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Nope, still got the vacuum leak. Dont know what to do...
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..did you change your jet size??
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Yep, put in a 110, same issue. Its a vac leak somewhere.
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...the "vacuum" circuit is small and very simple...
..do you have the service manual??
.. ???
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..take that jet up to a 114...
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TSG Tuning Leak Down Pressure Tester - Demonstration (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2RzEjXdaEUs#normal) This vid may help.
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..wonder where shubonker went...
???