KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 125 to 300 => Yager GT 200i => Topic started by: MeowJW on July 13, 2016, 04:36:38 PM
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Hello. This is my first post. And from the all you gurus I need help.
Bought a 2009 Yager used with only 1350km (846miles) odo. BTW Yagers are called Frost in Canada.
It was evident that the thing has been sitting for some long time, but it was very cheap.
So riding on the highway, on about 90km/h (56mph), the engine light flashes and the gauges are flashing, the tach needle is
pinned to max rpm and the bike stalled. This also happened in the local roads lower speeds.
I did look at the engine light flash patterns and they are 23 and 11. Could they be related?
Love my new bike but very sad because its sick. Any help would mean a lot to me.
Thanks in advance!!
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When the tach pins like that my first though is your battery is low. I had a similar thing happen toy old Yager. Also, you may want to check your spark plug. A lot can happened to a bike if it's been sitting around for a while.
- Wolf
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The Yager I had did a similar number and like Wolf said it was related to the battery. The cables had loosened because the dealer tech had neglected to install the clamp to hold the battery in place! Generally when the panel goes nuts it's electrical.
Karl
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Hi there. New owner of 2009 Kymco Frost (aka Yager) here and posting first message!
I have a very similar problem and would like to know how MeowJW fixed it. I've checked the battery connections and have cleaned and tightened them. For some reason, the previous owner put the wrong size battery in and had to shave off the tabs on the battery/fuse panel to make it fit; this also puts pressure on the connections from the MET-IN box so I will order the correct battery for it.
Also the previous owner seems to have removed the CELP from the dash and has partially melted it (!); I have no idea what was being attempted there.
It also seems there is a regular drip of oil from the rear part of the air box from the clear plastic hemisphere hanging underneath. I gather this is a result of too much gear oil in the transmission? I've had a look inside and have cleaned it.
But the high speed stall is the issue I want to address right now so would really like to know if MeowJW fixed it.
thanks!
Louder North
2009 Kymco Frost w. 10,000 km.
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I have a 2009 frost , and a downtown 2011, and a 2016 Piaggio B V 350, the frost was missing the same as my 300. so I thought it was the regulater or the stater that was what fixed the 300, don't know witch one , I think high rev.s may cause the break down of the reg.- stater,. as I was going 65 miles per hour when it started to miss, and I was pushing 8,000 rpm when the 300 started to miss again , not going to do that again,. I have the diagnostic tool for checking the kymco scooters , near Ottawa are you in this area, I have only seen one frost near here, and one downtown 300 in Ottawa
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De dee: thanks for the quick response! I'm going to eliminate the possible misfit battery and get the right one. I hear also that it could be the sparkplug or sparkplug cap/sparkplug wire so they might be next. But your having the diagnostic tool is great and I'd like to be able to use it since my CELP light is missing. Helps that I live in Ottawa too. I will PM you my personal email.
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Mine developed a high-speed miss that turned out to be the coil.
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Thanks Fogie. I'm hoping de dee diagnostic tool will tell me if I have any error codes... The problem seems to arise after a bit of running time at higher speeds so I'm inclined to think it could be the stator.
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Thanks Fogie. I'm hoping de dee diagnostic tool will tell me if I have any error codes... The problem seems to arise after a bit of running time at higher speeds so I'm inclined to think it could be the stator.
As I recall, when my coil died, the ignition would stutter at higher revs, particularly under load; kind of like a car with bad high-tension wires on a rainy day. I got the impression that coil problems are common with Frosts (Yagers), since my dealer suspected the coil as soon as I described the problem over the phone. I have no idea how they actually diagnosed the issue, but it wasn't just a good guess; since this particular bike's coil is a pricey item, they notified me that the coil had to be replaced before installing the new one.
Please post an explanation of what was wrong with your bike, once the problem is solved.
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Fogie, please explain, "they notified me the coil had to be replaced before installing the new one." This confuses me, PLEASE HELP!
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As I recall, when my coil died, the ignition would stutter at higher revs, particularly under load; kind of like a car with bad high-tension wires on a rainy day. I got the impression that coil problems are common with Frosts (Yagers), since my dealer suspected the coil as soon as I described the problem over the phone. I have no idea how they actually diagnosed the issue, but it wasn't just a good guess; since this particular bike's coil is a pricey item, they notified me that the coil had to be replaced before installing the new one.
Please post an explanation of what was wrong with your bike, once the problem is solved.
Fogie: What you have described is exactly what I experienced. At higher speeds/rev (but below the red line) the tach will just take a dive over the line at the same time as a momentary stall. Then it recovers a bit but if you try again to accelerate, you get the same result. I'm beginning to think there is a pattern here and that many Frost/Yeager have or will have the same coil weakness. And yes, I will follow up once a new coil is installed to let you know if that solved the issue.
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Fogie, please explain, "they notified me the coil had to be replaced before installing the new one." This confuses me, PLEASE HELP!
Sorry Karl; that's what I get for posting early in the morning.
I shouldn't have associated (by semi-colon) that with the earlier part of the sentence. The thought was "since this particular bike's coil is a pricey item, they notified me that the coil had to be replaced before installing the new one", meaning they had diagnosed the problem and weren't just trying to sell a coil; they were implicitly giving me the opportunity to bail out, rather than simply handing me a large bill for a fait accompli. BTW, they gave me the old coil.
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Fogie: What you have described is exactly what I experienced. At higher speeds/rev (but below the red line) the tach will just take a dive over the line at the same time as a momentary stall. Then it recovers a bit but if you try again to accelerate, you get the same result. I'm beginning to think there is a pattern here and that many Frost/Yeager have or will have the same coil weakness. And yes, I will follow up once a new coil is installed to let you know if that solved the issue.
Now that you mention it, I remember the dancing tach as well.
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I seen on the diagnostic tool there is a high RPM switch, that I reset with the diagnostic tool, wish I could find it on the downtown 300i, it is like a blown fuse, there is no power in the ignition, but the fuses are good ,
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I cleaned the dr pulley sliders and the pulleys , and deglazed the clutch pads, noticed the outer variator pulley face was oxidized and fine pitting all over it causing slipping , got out the buffing pads for the drill, and some 600 grit sand paper, polished it , almost like new, yesterday I installed a new rear tire 140/ 70 13 " a city grip , the front tire will be changed soon a power pure ,.
I left the moterr running while checking the variator, and the engine would stall at idle after a while, tried to open gas cap and could not to much preasure after 5 min., I opened the gas cap with a loud suction sound, sounds like the gas tank was crushed, Karl did you ever vent the cap on your Yager? it is a hinged cap on the dash,
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No, De dee, I did not vent the cap on the Yager. I replumbed the vent line to a high point and installed a small fuel filter for a chainsaw to keep the bugs out. I did it that way 'cause it did not, at the time, seem feasible to try to vent the cap. The vacuum operated vent valve had become permanently stuck shut.
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that is what I did to my piaggio 350, now to take the Tupperware off to run a vent hose to a high place, ever heard of 1 way filters so if the bike is down it would not leak gas????
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No on the one-way filters.
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I installed the powerpure tire on the front wheel, checking the old tire it is 14 years old ,so the pre-owners bought a old tire,and did not check the date on it,
it was 5 or 6 years old when they bought a new tire???????? checked the brakes and lubed the sliding pins., pads looked like new.,
Well that looks after another rainy day, better not rain any more I am running out of things to do, that's when the honey do jobs come,
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Hi there. New owner of 2009 Kymco Frost (aka Yager) here and posting first message!
I have a very similar problem and would like to know how MeowJW fixed it. I've checked the battery connections and have cleaned and tightened them. For some reason, the previous owner put the wrong size battery in and had to shave off the tabs on the battery/fuse panel to make it fit; this also puts pressure on the connections from the MET-IN box so I will order the correct battery for it.
Also the previous owner seems to have removed the CELP from the dash and has partially melted it (!); I have no idea what was being attempted there.
It also seems there is a regular drip of oil from the rear part of the air box from the clear plastic hemisphere hanging underneath. I gather this is a result of too much gear oil in the transmission? I've had a look inside and have cleaned it.
But the high speed stall is the issue I want to address right now so would really like to know if MeowJW fixed it.
thanks!
Louder North
2009 Kymco Frost w. 10,000 km.
Just an update on the battery fitment issue I mentioned above: the previous owner had not used the wrong size battery as I had thought but had attached the battery cables to the TOP of the posts on the battery rather than the FRONT of the posts ... that means it did not fit in the space available and he/she trimmed off the top two tabs on the battery cover to make it fit. Wow. All good now though but I'm miffed at the needless destruction.
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A pinhead is born every 90 seconds. You have seen one's work!
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As I recall, when my coil died, the ignition would stutter at higher revs, particularly under load; kind of like a car with bad high-tension wires on a rainy day. I got the impression that coil problems are common with Frosts (Yagers), since my dealer suspected the coil as soon as I described the problem over the phone. I have no idea how they actually diagnosed the issue, but it wasn't just a good guess; since this particular bike's coil is a pricey item, they notified me that the coil had to be replaced before installing the new one.
Please post an explanation of what was wrong with your bike, once the problem is solved.
Update on the use of de dee's Kymco diagnostic tool (thanks de dee and it was great talking to you in person)...
NO error codes! None active and none stored. The mystery continues.
But we did discover that the charging system is only putting out about 13.5 v or there abouts at speed, so not sure that is in spec and whether that could be causing the high speed stalling.
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Update on the use of de dee's Kymco diagnostic tool (thanks de dee and it was great talking to you in person)...
NO error codes! None active and none stored. The mystery continues.
But we did discover that the charging system is only putting out about 13.5 v or there abouts at speed, so not sure that is in spec and whether that could be causing the high speed stalling.
Another thought: if the charging voltage is 13.xx and it was too low, wouldn't it create a DTC (fault code)? So perhaps the charging voltage is not out of spec...
Another question: are the fault codes stored and maintained in the ECU and are they lost when the battery is disconnected?
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They are lost when battery is disconnected. That is always a good reset method!
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My poor frost died., started it up and ran fine pulling into gas bar and was sputtering, filled up with gas, and felt like water in the gas, got about 1,000 feet and it died , now it wont start at all,. no spark , I will put the diagnostic on it to check whats up with it,
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My poor frost died., started it up and ran fine pulling into gas bar and was sputtering, filled up with gas, and felt like water in the gas, got about 1,000 feet and it died , now it wont start at all,. no spark , I will put the diagnostic on it to check whats up with it,
Let me know where you order parts from De dee. I ordered from Performance Powersports in SC and I'm not impressed.
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:P :P I am tring a new one , E bay, genuine only 4479 ,,, $ 44.30 for a regulator US $ they said delivery by 15 th of nov. to 1 dec. from tiawan
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Let me know where you order parts from De dee. I ordered from Performance Powersports in SC and I'm not impressed.
At loooong last - my parts arrived yesterday (coil, reg/rectifier, air filter). Ordered September 11. Scooter is in deep hibernation right now and I won't get to it until March.... chances I will order from this dealer again? Zero.
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I just fixed the Yager today. It was running fine, then cutting out, tach buried at 10k, and engine sputtering and slowing down, then engine light on when I held it wide open. I thought it was a charging issue and the bike was running bad because the battery was going dead. But while all this was going on, the meter at the battery sat right at 14. Very steady current. So I decided to change out the coil. It took me longer to figure out you don't have to take off any plastics to change it than it did to change it. I ended up using a coil for a different brand of fuel injected scooter that was $30, instead of the Kymco coil that I couldn't find cheaper than $90, and made a small change to the cap so it was easier to push onto the plug, and it runs like a champ. I ran the piss out of it for 25 miles, and not a sputter. If it runs this well next week, I'll consider it fixed. Hopefully this coil will last longer than the one Kymco uses. It was a little tricky to mount, and in hindsight, I should have just left the old one on and mounted this one somewhere else.
While I was going through the electrics, I found that some pinhead had disconnected the kickstand switch and coated the fuses with about a teaspoon of grease that looked like peanut butter. As soon as I saw that, I wondered what other "improvements" this idiot had made to the electrical system.
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I just fixed the Yager today. It was running fine, then cutting out, tach buried at 10k, and engine sputtering and slowing down, then engine light on when I held it wide open. I thought it was a charging issue and the bike was running bad because the battery was going dead. But while all this was going on, the meter at the battery sat right at 14. Very steady current. So I decided to change out the coil. It took me longer to figure out you don't have to take off any plastics to change it than it did to change it. I ended up using a coil for a different brand of fuel injected scooter that was $30, instead of the Kymco coil that I couldn't find cheaper than $90, and made a small change to the cap so it was easier to push onto the plug, and it runs like a champ. I ran the piss out of it for 25 miles, and not a sputter. If it runs this well next week, I'll consider it fixed. Hopefully this coil will last longer than the one Kymco uses. It was a little tricky to mount, and in hindsight, I should have just left the old one on and mounted this one somewhere else.
While I was going through the electrics, I found that some pinhead had disconnected the kickstand switch and coated the fuses with about a teaspoon of grease that looked like peanut butter. As soon as I saw that, I wondered what other "improvements" this idiot had made to the electrical system.
Fantastic news! I have similar issues and hope to get to do the coil replacement (I ordered the OEM one and waited 4 months for it to arrive) this weekend. I'll report back. Do you have a photo or part number of the non-OEM coil you used?
Talking about the intelligence of previous owners, the instrument panel on my Frost is partially 'melted' as if someone pointed a heat gun at the 'check engine line' so I have no idea of the fault codes if any.
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I did some more digging and found out you might be able to get the original coil really cheap. I ordered one and am waiting to see for sure, but it looks like it's a pretty easy part to find. It doesn't have the spark plug cap from hell, but I'm pretty sure it's the same coil.
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I did some more digging and found out you might be able to get the original coil really cheap. I ordered one and am waiting to see for sure, but it looks like it's a pretty easy part to find. It doesn't have the spark plug cap from hell, but I'm pretty sure it's the same coil.
Please let me know where you ordered it - I just found out I ordered the wrong one :-[ and I have been searching all over to find another.
By the way I have an OEM 3051A-LDF2-900 coil which fits the Xciting 250i if anyone is interested.
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Like I said, it's a very common part. The dimensions of the plastic part are the same, but the metal bands around it are bigger, and you need to get a plug wire and cap.
REFERENCE NUMBERS
AC-Delco D565AC-Delco D595AAirtex 5C1132Airtex 5C1285Airtex 5C1383Beck Arnley New 1788209Beck Arnley New 1788229Bremi 20308BWD Automotive E575BWD Automotive E726BWD Automotive E726PDaihatsu Motor Co 9004852097Daihatsu Motor Co 9004852080000Daihatsu Motor Co 9004852083000Daihatsu Motor Co 9004852094000Daihatsu Motor Co 9004852097000Echlin IC401Facet Purolator 9.6270SFederated UF76Forecast 5127Forecast 5128Forecast 5136Forecast 5146Forecast 50052GM 30009850GM 30013123GM 96068687GM D565GP Sorensen 245085Kem Manufacturing 349WMaster Pro Ignition 5127Master Pro Ignition 25127Mighty 6553Mobiletron Electronics CG-11Mobiletron Electronics CH-07NAPA IC135NAPA IC401Niehoff WA2017Niehoff WA2116Niehoff WA766KOriginal Engine Management 5127Original Engine Management 5128SMP (Standard Motor Products) UF76Suzuki 3.34E+16Suzuki 3.34E+18Suzuki 3341050G10Suzuki 3341060EC0Wells Manufacturing 521513Wells Manufacturing C1028Wells Manufacturing C1029Wells Manufacturing C1116Wells Manufacturing C1252Wells Manufacturing C1383
APPLICATION INFORMATION
Chevrolet Metro 1992 L4 1.3L 1295cc 79cidChevrolet Metro 2000-98 L3 1.0L 993cc 61cidDaihatsu Charade 1992-89 L4 1.3L 1295ccDaihatsu Rocky 1992-90 L4 1.6L 1589ccGeo Metro 1994-92 L4 1.3L 1298cc 79cidGeo Metro 1997-94 L3 1.0L 993cc 61cidGeo Metro 1997-95 L4 1.3L 1295cc 79cidGeo Tracker 1995-94 L4 1.6L 1588cc 98cidPontiac Firefly 1997-95 L4 1.3L 1295cc 79cidPontiac Firefly 2000-94 L3 1.0L 993cc 61cidPontiac Sunrunner 1994 L4 1.6L 1588cc 98cidSuzuki Swift 1992 L4 1.6L 1590cc 97cidSuzuki Swift 1993 L4 1.6L 1590cc 97cidSuzuki Swift 1995 L4 1.3L 1298cc 79cidSuzuki Swift 1994-92 L3 1.0L 993cc 61cidSuzuki Swift 1994-93 L4 1.3L 1298cc 79cidSuzuki Swift 1997-96 L4 1.3L 1298cc 79cid
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Excellent!!
Have you tried one of them?
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Yes. I got one and hooked it up and made sure the bike ran and did normal scooter things. That's why I didn't say what it is until I was sure it worked. The best thing as far as a wire is to also get one from the automotive side. It plugs in, and doesn't screw into the coil. It's the same setup Piaggio uses, and most auto companies. If you take that long list of part numbers into a parts store, once they find one, they can sell you the right spark plug wire too. You can either cut off the end of the wire and screw on a motorcycle cap, or leave the end on, and have something like what you already have. If you do that, you might need to use the screw on terminal on the end of the spark plug. Again, any auto parts store can sell you all the right parts to make this work. The hardest part was finding one that plugs in to the existing harness.
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Yes. I got one and hooked it up and made sure the bike ran and did normal scooter things. That's why I didn't say what it is until I was sure it worked. The best thing as far as a wire is to also get one from the automotive side. It plugs in, and doesn't screw into the coil. It's the same setup Piaggio uses, and most auto companies. If you take that long list of part numbers into a parts store, once they find one, they can sell you the right spark plug wire too. You can either cut off the end of the wire and screw on a motorcycle cap, or leave the end on, and have something like what you already have. If you do that, you might need to use the screw on terminal on the end of the spark plug. Again, any auto parts store can sell you all the right parts to make this work. The hardest part was finding one that plugs in to the existing harness.
Fantastic! Great news - thanks for figuring it out!
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Just an update on my Yager and the 'stalling at speed' issue.
Very happy to have been given a used ECU by De Dee to swap out - to eliminate that part as the cause.
I switched them around yesterday and also cleaned all the connections to the wiring harness. Test rode it today (after recharging the battery). STILL have the same problem.
So the next step is to order then replace the stator and pick up. Looks like a big job to get it out but it is the only component left that hasn't been tried.
Later....
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Just an update on my Yager and the 'stalling at speed' issue.
Very happy to have been given a used ECU by De Dee to swap out - to eliminate that part as the cause.
I switched them around yesterday and also cleaned all the connections to the wiring harness. Test rode it today (after recharging the battery). STILL have the same problem.
So the next step is to order then replace the stator and pick up. Looks like a big job to get it out but it is the only component left that hasn't been tried.
Later....
UPDATE: Shout out to Solano Cycle in Florida for quick shipping and helpful advice to replace the stator and pickup.
And a warning for anyone doing this to plan on needing lot of time for removal of a lot of your scooter to get at the right side crankcase cover. Had to remove the back-end plastics, the exhaust pipe, the rear brake caliper, the rear wheel axle nut so that the right rear shock yoke could come off, plus drain the oil AND coolant.... and had to use a bit of persuasion to remove the cc cover once all the nuts were removed. Also, do plan to replace the gasket too as mine came off in pieces. Hopefully Solano will come through and send the gasket as that is all I need before reassembling. I'm getting there.
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Can you say, "RTV?"
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Can you say, "RTV?"
Don't want to chance it - too much trouble to go back and fix it if it leaks.
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Don't want to chance it - too much trouble to go back and fix it if it leaks.
Ahhhgh! Reassembled everything this afternoon with new stator and pickup. STILL have the same problem.
Could it be a fuel issue?
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STILL have the same problem.
Could it be a fuel issue?
Isn't it time to bite the bullet and look for someone who knows how to use a Kymco Diagnostics Tool? The Diagnostics will tell you what the problem is. It's too painful watching an owner replacing one thing after another, looking for the cause, when the plug-in diagnostics (in expert hands) will show what the problem is.
Is there someone out there who can help this owner?
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Since already addressed the tool showed no codes this is not a problem with the EFI, ECU or any code-able malfunction. There is intermittent power from the battery or intermittent connection somewhere between the battery and ECU. We all now know what the cause IS NOT! This is gonna be something buried in the wiring and/or connectors. A bad or corroded crimp, an intermittent ground, something along those lines but not something that will show on the analyzer tool.
I will be happy to be completely wrong on this!
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Ahhhgh! Reassembled everything this afternoon with new stator and pickup. STILL have the same problem.
Could it be a fuel issue?
No fuel issue if tach goes nutz in conjunction with stalling and missing...
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No fuel issue if tach goes nutz in conjunction with stalling and missing...
FWIW: My experience with the same symptoms, turned out to be the coil (an expensive little item).
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If it was the coil, it would show on the diagnostics tool. Isn't there someone in this audience who knows how to use the Kymco diagnostics? Someone hinted at using the diagnostics, but no detail followed. It's painful watching all the wasted guess-work going on here!
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So sorry, JJ, no code for malfunction in coil. At least on the DT code roster which is SIMILAR to the Yager. Someone with the Yager service manual could close that loop. DE DEE! WAKE UP! Codes for Yager, please! US calling Canada, over.
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So sorry, JJ, no code for malfunction in coil. At least on the DT code roster which is SIMILAR to the Yager. Someone with the Yager service manual could close that loop. DE DEE! WAKE UP! Codes for Yager, please! US calling Canada, over.
You want the number for Timmies up there, Karl?
(got 'em all on speed dial)
Stig
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Who "Timmies?"
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Who "Timmies?"
Canada's second most famous personage, after the RCMP's, Tim Horton.
Dedee is probably hanging out there.
Stig
Stig
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no timmiys for me I have home cooking yum yum bringing tool to jim soon , but I am not good on diagnostics,. Ill bring my yager and cross check from one to the other to see if there is a difference,.
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no timmiys for me I have home cooking yum yum bringing tool to jim soon , but I am not good on diagnostics,. Ill bring my yager and cross check from one to the other to see if there is a difference,.
Thanks De Dee! I've got your diagnostic tool and realized that if I leave it under the seat, I can't see it unless I turn off the ignition (which then powers off the tool and you lose any DTC it might have detected...).
So, the cable is long enough that I could route it under the seat and leave the tool in my pocket; so I did another tour of the neighbourhood, again repeating the 'moderate speed stall' symptom, got home, checked the tool with the engine still running... and there were NO DTCs! No trouble codes. All is within spec. So now I'm thinking 'what else can it be'? Could it be fuel related and therefore not detected by the diagnostic tool?
Took the floor board off, measured the resistance of the fuel pump... it is supposed to be 1 ohm (+\- 0.2 according to the service manual). It measures 2.7 ohms. Yes, it is out of spec and I would say while it still pumps, it is too weak, and therefore not able to supply sufficient fuel pressure when under load. Time for a new fuel pump! \
I took the pump right out of the fuel tank and have some pictures of the filter - let me know if you think it might also be plugged up.
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So sorry, JJ, no code for malfunction in coil. At least on the DT code roster which is SIMILAR to the Yager. Someone with the Yager service manual could close that loop. DE DEE! WAKE UP! Codes for Yager, please! US calling Canada, over.
I can confirm there is no DTC for the coil. It displays idle RPM, battery voltage, TPS volts at idle, TPS volts at WOT, atmospheric and manifold pressure in kPa, fuel injector interval (in ms), ignition advance (in degrees), ABV angle (in degrees), sensor voltage (in mv) (I think this refers to O2 sensor), O2 heater (on or off), ABV adaptation (in degrees), ECU counter (total hours of operation), cutout voltage, ignition dwell (in ms) and air temp. For DTC it will display current, previous and history of DTC codes.
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remember yager 200 he had stalling too,. he installed new filter from auto supply and same problem he ordered a micron fine filter and that solved the missing if we look up his measages, we could see where he ordered it., and how fine of a filter,
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remember yager 200 he had stalling too,. he installed new filter from auto supply and same problem he ordered a micron fine filter and that solved the missing if we look up his measages, we could see where he ordered it., and how fine of a filter,
This is the thread you meant right de dee? http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=12666.0 (http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=12666.0)
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Thanks De Dee! I've got your diagnostic tool and realized that if I leave it under the seat, I can't see it unless I turn off the ignition (which then powers off the tool and you lose any DTC it might have detected...).
So, the cable is long enough that I could route it under the seat and leave the tool in my pocket; so I did another tour of the neighbourhood, again repeating the 'moderate speed stall' symptom, got home, checked the tool with the engine still running... and there were NO DTCs! No trouble codes. All is within spec. So now I'm thinking 'what else can it be'? Could it be fuel related and therefore not detected by the diagnostic tool?
Took the floor board off, measured the resistance of the fuel pump... it is supposed to be 1 ohm (+\- 0.2 according to the service manual). It measures 2.7 ohms. Yes, it is out of spec and I would say while it still pumps, it is too weak, and therefore not able to supply sufficient fuel pressure when under load. Time for a new fuel pump! \
I took the pump right out of the fuel tank and have some pictures of the filter - let me know if you think it might also be plugged up.
While still waiting for the fuel pump from Solano for my gray Frost, another Frost came up for sale in my area. Pristine condition, newer year, fewer kilometers, white in colour; the price was right so I bought it. Will still repair my first one but will sell it next year (I still have your diagnostic tool de dee!).
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Well, after consider efforts to no avail on my part, I am happy (but also a bit chastened to confess) that I have, finally, sorted out the cause of the moderate/higher speed stalling and tachometer 'diving' issue.
Faulty spark plug cable. Photo of culprit attached.
My fault for starting at the coil and working the other way to the stator. Then thought is was a fuel issue. Fuel pump checked out, no plugged air vent from the tank, fuel vapour value OK too. I taped the outside of the sparkplug cable also to ensure no leakage, as was reported in this thread but that didn't help. On the plus side, I have learned a lot about the electrical and fuel system but the most important lesson for me was that I should have started on the easy to test/fix items first.
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With the help of the parts counter guy at our local MC store (Ottawa Good Time Centre), I salvaged the connectors on the old spark plug cable and added them to a new $1 piece of cable.
Runs like a charm now.
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One buck for a piece of spark plug cable and it is smooth as glass! That fuel filter looked pretty grubby! You now the Yager/Frost expert! Good persistance!