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Scooters - 50cc => Agility 50 => Topic started by: Gasngo on June 07, 2016, 09:01:25 PM
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Well I see the activity here has been slow [I stand corrected I posted in the wrong place] so maybe I can liven it up. Any opinions [oopphhsss] on parts quality. I have a Agility 50 that died while driving. Seems to get one spot of spark then thats it. Im a mechanic by trade and have been taking things apart and fixing since I was a little kid. Im about to dive in for some testing. If the stator or something needs to be replaced I would like to know if there is better quality parts that would last longer than 100 miles and 3 or 4 years.
Any input is welcome.
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Not really if there Chinese but there a lot of parts that can b slightly modified to work for it. Dirt Bikes and some and I don't mean anything crazy but like how they mount pretty much gy6 based ATVs make sure what u have electrically if it's an AC or DC bike then go from there
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Thanks for the input. From what I see on the web prices are all over the place wondering if something like NCY parts have a better reliability considering Taiwan verse random Chinese? A few bucks more for reliability and my time spent working on the thing are considered.
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Yes Taiwan Parts tend to be far superior then Chinese parts. A lot of the Chinese factories that make some of these parts have like dirt floors I'm not kidding
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But to b honest your better off buying parts that will work for a different type of bike and mod in them to make them fit your application if you worried about quality a lot of the Honda stuff is very much direct swap over because they're the ones that came up with the GY6 based engine Weatherby a139 qmb or 157 qmj they're all inherently the same with some slight variations between this and that
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And depending on what kind of a budget you have Taida racing South parts of a GY6 based engines they're very high quality but kind of expensive for instance for a little over a thousand bucks you can get a fully built GY6 150cc best scooter engine with a 27 horsepower at the crank
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The south is not supposed to be in there it's just Taida racing
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What do you get when you whack a CDI box with a screwdriver handle?? Spark! Interesting that I can give the CDI a crisp whack and get spark but as soon as I plug into the plug I get one fire in the engine and thats all. Whack it again same results spark on on the spare plug hook back up and one bump then done. I assume that the actual load must break down some where. Ill order a new CDI and a coil no doubt the factory coil is cheeezy. Anybody see this?
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Honestly I've had less problems with the factory coils then I have had with like the hit coils or the orange performance coils there's a bunch of Chinese companies pushing s*** quills and orange performance coils and they're not really put together well but they're saying that there are name brands so personally I would try to get the new CDI first if that doesn't fix the issue then I will go ahead and replace the coil with the standard because generally speaking from experience they would seem to work better as far as actually putting spark when you put it on like a little testing device
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(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160609/eb7d5637054133260c2ff6c3b1c28c4a.jpg)
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This is the scooter I have now I have had several over the last 10 years
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Nice.
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Good looking machine. I assume 2 stroke by the looks of the pipe. I plan on ordering a no rev from M scooter parts as big as they are if I have issue then they there to back it up. {I dont remember rules on name dropping so if someone says remove it I will] Also another outfit has a Orange CDI & Coil combo for the same price as the DCI at M Scoot. I ought to take advantage of the discount M Scoot and order more stuff. The machine is stock and my wife rides it mostly so I dont need a rocket but it is slower than my Rough House so any suggestions welcome. From what I have read a slider mod and maybe carb jet and the variator sleeve. I do think that it is justified to spend the extra money regarding performance because I would like her to have the ability to get across a intersection without getting run over.
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No actually a 4 stroke u can use a good 2 stroke exhaust on a 4 stroke of similar size as a performance exhaust because a 2 stroke pushes more air through it so in effect on a four stroke it's like a straight pipe sorta very low restriction. The two-stroke uses that funny-looking chamber to create a Sonic pulse which helps in the aid of evacuation and holding the air inside a two-stroke in were it's supposed to be because there is no valves but that has no effect on a 4 stroke motor
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Good looking machine. I assume 2 stroke by the looks of the pipe. I plan on ordering a no rev from M scooter parts as big as they are if I have issue then they there to back it up. {I dont remember rules on name dropping so if someone says remove it I will] Also another outfit has a Orange CDI & Coil combo for the same price as the DCI at M Scoot. I ought to take advantage of the discount M Scoot and order more stuff. The machine is stock and my wife rides it mostly so I dont need a rocket but it is slower than my Rough House so any suggestions welcome. From what I have read a slider mod and maybe carb jet and the variator sleeve. I do think that it is justified to spend the extra money regarding performance because I would like her to have the ability to get across a intersection without getting run over.
I find them on eBay there all just about the same. And I wouldn't bother with the torque sheve. Chang the springs in the clutch to 1500 rpm. And the the torque spring 2 a 1500 rpm as well. There usually yellow. And do the sliders of the same weight as the rollers u got now that alone will dramatically change how the scooter accelerates from dead stop to full speed
if you go with the 2000 RPM its kind of racy not as easy to use day to day and that's more for the track or keep stock clutch spring and go with yellow torque spring the torque spring is what keeps it in a lower gear you can accelerate faster yellow and should not impede the top end too much if you go to the red ones might not be able to get the top speed but you'll be able to accelerate up hill like crazy
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Thanks for the input. Heading to the beach for sun and a cold brew. I'll do some research and post my findings.
cheers Brad
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Im ready to order parts anybody have a problem with replacing the stock 17mm carb with a 19 mm. I do plan on the springs and the no rev cdi. The bike is stock so the rollers are 6.5 I assume. I have read sliders work better ? would I stay with the same weight or go to 6.0 grams. Just fine tuning the order. Hopefully I order shortly and have thing here by the weekend.
Cheers Brad
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Just read where sliders of the same weight behave like lighter rollers now I understand the same weight reason.
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You said you have spark. It should be white in color Yellow would be a weak spark & may be your problem. For the stuck screw try putting your screwdriver into the screw & hit the end of handle driving into the screw. This will help set the driver into the screw for a better bite & also the shock/harmonics will help to break the screw loose. I usually do this to all the screws when working on small carbs, it really does help to not strip the screw.
If you spray just a little shot/for 1 second, of carb cleaner into the intake while cranking the bike should fire. That will help you figure out if it's fuel or spark.
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Thanks for the input JR I dont have a problem with tight screws my comment was when I hit the old CDI with a screw driver I get spark. A soon as I reconnect to the spark plug on the cyl then I loose spark. I repeated this several times to verify my problem. I just finished replacing the CDI with a new one and replace the carp with a 19 mm instead of the original 17 mm? if Im correct and after a few cranks we are back on line. Yea!! As per previous post on springs and weights my source that I ordered from did not have the 1500 rpm torque spring but did have the 1500 clutch springs. Assuming the original rollers are 6.5 and I could not get 6.5 sliders at the time I ordered 6.0 sliders instead of rollers. I thought I would try those out before I try the springs. Or should just go all the way. I will say this Im very happy with the parts supplier. Scoot running looking forward to see how it behaves with the no limit CDI and larger carb if I even notice the difference. I would think I will. More to come.
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Ok replaced the CDI and we have spark. For grins I left the original carb on and no start even after several attempts. I knew the jets where messy from sitting. Installed the new carb and a few bumps and away we go. The original carb appears to have a accelerator pump? The new one does not that I can see. I went ahead and installed the 6 gram sliders without any spring change. I personally cant tell a big difference in overall performance. The CDI is unrestricted to my knowledge and the variator sleeve is smooth all the way no shoulder on it so it must have been done by the dealer. I suppose I feel a slight improvement on out of the hole take off but marginal. Top speed on a flat surface around 37 according to the speedo. About 20ish up hills. I dont expect much more thought about a exhaust pipe upgrade. Maybe go ahead and find a torque spring and install both clutch and torque springs to get moving faster? Should I really be able to tell if the no rev limit CDI as doing what its supposed to. Whose to say that the original was not already set up for no rev limit from the dealer and part of the derestrict? Any thoughts welcome.
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Took another ride and I think I have more mid range power than before. I believe the spring mods will help on the get out of the hole affect but for now I only have the clutch springs. I would be curious to see what the results are with mod alone.