KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 50cc => zx50 => Topic started by: mudfreek on May 21, 2010, 10:42:51 AM
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hey guys im new to the kymco world i just purchased a 2004 zx50 it has a pipe and maybe other mods that i am not aware of i have trouble starting it in the morning but when its good and warm no issues the cdi has had a wire cut and re soldered
ok what i need a lil info on i am looking for a way to clean out the silencer its a tecnigas
next is a way to make it have a lil more top end its quick acceleration but peeders out at around 40/45 im looking to go around 50/55
and last im looking for quality body panels it has been layed over i need the front cover the side skirting and the engine cover as well as the piece across the top under the rack i had another zx50 with a cracked frame but the body was smashed so i have another engine for when this one goes bad any help would be greatly aprieciated and what might i be able to do about better brakes
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what up?? ......welcome to the forum...where you from? as far as the exhaust, idk...zombie here could tell you more about that, he has his done.. im not sure of the benefit, if any.... i have same exhaust and a 04zx... mine sometimes will take 5-6 kicks to start, sometimes one kick(guess the weather,altitude).. there are several sites for parts, i very recently had to buy panels also and found that to be be easier at a local shop.. CHECK PRICES, ONE SHOP WAS ALMOST HALF THE PRICE OF ANOTHER HERE.... as far as other parts, malossi parts seem to be the preferred choice... get em from malossiusaonline, ebay(scooter assassins in us), provoscooter, moped hospital, (.com).... your lucky to have an extra motor, thatd b nice...lmao wanna sell a starter??????(i need one) im just starting out here myself BUT am learning ALOT, slowly..lmao
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i would definatly sell the starter but its fried where the brushes go in the platic piece had melted btw im frm va so are there any cheap/ free tips to going a lil faster top end
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If you feel comfortable messing around with your variator, check the weights of the rollers you have in now. If they're lighter than stock, some slightly heavier ones will likely give more top end but will sacrifice a bit of acceleration. It's possible, since the scooter has other alterations done, that the previous owner installed lighter rollers to get more acceleration. I'm only a newbie myself, though, so let Zombie or Wordslinger or Shaka, etc, give you the low down on this. ;) By the way, if you live in a hilly area, you may need to leave it the way it is so you can climb hills with ease.
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what up? i broke my brushes off the starter.... from the sounds of it, you may be as far as you can go right now... as hoolander said, check your var to see bout it and rollers... a var will give you bout 3-4mph top end.. 7 rollers are good for me BUT 7.5 gives me about 4-5mph top end, have hit a top speed of 52(great conditions too, avg 47: for now!!. ).. im putting a var and a reed cage on mine to see what up.. i am currently running stock jug... yeah, hoo may b on sumthin there: i live in mtns here, 1500 springs throughout help wit the hills(thinkin y my take off suffers a bit,1500contra: but good on ALL THESE DAM HILLS), AM gonna try a couple new setups this week to make sure... am finding out that it starts getting expensive to stay above 50+mph.. seeing several issues wit cheap bbks.. done scared me....lmao
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Yeah, my cheap cylinder kit has been a bit of a headache but it has also been a good learning curve for me and I believe I can still get more from it, just enjoying it as is for a while, (read don't have any money for more bits yet, life is getting in the way).
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well as far as rollers should i go with the round ones or the flat ones and as far as clutch are ther any advantages to going with a race/performance one or should i just go with springs
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Welcome Mudfeek! Here is a link on re-packing your Tecnigas silencer: http://scooterinvasion.net/repacktechnigas.html (http://scooterinvasion.net/repacktechnigas.html) It's very easy! I just did mine a couple weeks ago actually. I used some FabMat I picked up at Home Depot for about $6. I have enough to pack it probably 4 more times.
I think you may be at about the max top speed with 45 mph. That is about all I ever got out of mine with the stock engine. I didn't really tune the stock one to the max before I did the BBK though. If you've already got quick acceleration then your CVT is probably already tuned. It is a little bit of a trade off between acceleration and top speed. You can try some Dr. Pulley sliders. They may give you a extra 1-3 mph on the top end without sacrificing anything on the bottom. I've been very pleased with mine!
The next step beyond the CVT tuning is to increase the air flow into the motor either via an open air filter plus re-jetting the stock carb and/or a larger aftermarket carb.
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now as far as the cvt is there any way to look at it and see if its stock or tuned i know the 03 zx50 rollers are a yellowish tan
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The next step beyond the CVT tuning is to increase the air flow into the motor either via an open air filter plus re-jetting the stock carb and/or a larger aftermarket carb.
...then the FUN begins!!!!
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my only concern about goin to a bigger jug is that the odometer reads over 9000 km and the other engine i got read over 12000 now say i go to thw bigger jug how much life would i have left on the stock crank bearings and conecting rod bearings im trying not to shorten the life of my lil zx to bad
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...dunno about the zx, or your scoot in general, but i'm fixin to trip 48,000 km on my 08 agility 50...
..stock engine...
..nearly 30,000, miles...
...it's all about how the scoot has been maintained....
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my only concern about goin to a bigger jug is that the odometer reads over 9000 km and the other engine i got read over 12000 now say i go to thw bigger jug how much life would i have left on the stock crank bearings and conecting rod bearings im trying not to shorten the life of my lil zx to bad
I bought mine THIRD hand at 11'000 km. Put everything I could on it, and now have @46'000km I think It's all good
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...dunno about the zx, or your scoot in general, but i'm fixin to trip 48,000 km on my 08 agility 50... ..stock engine... ..nearly 30,000, miles... ...it's all about how the scoot has been maintained....
BOY, YOU SURE ARE RIDING THAT SCOOT..SEEN ONE OF THOSE AG'S, NEAT BACK REST FOR PASS.! I DIDNT THINK IT WAS A KYMCO, LMAO, PRETTY COOL.. HEY MUDFREAK, YOU CAN ALWAYS WEIGH THE ROLLERS, I HAVE A SET OF DIGI'S. OEM ARE 8.5.. YEAH, IMMA BREAK DOWN MYSELF AN TRY OUT A OPEN FILTER AND JET(if i can figure it out), MAY AS WELL, HEAR DIFF. TALES ON THEM BUT THESE GUYS HERE HADN'T STEERED ME WRONG YET! FAB MAT HUH?, MAKE IT ANY LOUDER?? I SOUND LIKE A DIRTBIKE ALREADY..LMAO
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Compared to my oil saturated oem packing the FabMat is much quieter! I couldn't take the constant ringing in my ears, so I finally re-packed it! ;D
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Thanks for the re-packing tip Shaka. gonna have to try that when I put on a new pipe. Welcome Mudfreak!
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thanks for all the welcomes as far as cylinder upgrades what should i go with since i have another motor assembly i might as well build that one and just swap it out i know it had 12000 + km on it should i just go ahead and get new crank bearing as well as rod bearing just so its fresh or should i just build the one thats in the bike already and what about body panels where can i get new ones there isnt a kymco dealer around here
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G'day mudfreek, welcome to the forum,with cylinder kits it is better to go with a proven product. I bought a cheap one from an ebay seller and it turned out to be a lot more work than expected. Having said that it has been fun and educational going through with setting it up. I had a massive amount of help and support from the people on this forum for which I am grateful, so beware what you buy but either way it will be fun.
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what up? the way i understand it, the 03-04 zx has the best internal parts from oem.. i know the wrist pin/ bearring is 12mm instead of a 10mm which is better you should just leave the bearrings and crank, etc alone UNLESS your going full race set up..
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duh, unless the stuff is totally beaten up, you should b ok... those km you have it should b good..
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As far as cylinder kits, I'm running an Airsal kit myself. I've been pretty happy with it! It has taken some time to get everything dialed in properly, but I rode it all over town today and it is officially SCREAMING!!! ;D I didn't really have to do anything out of the ordinary that you wouldn't have to do with any other cylinder kit, it has mostly just been a huge learning experience about the finer points of 2-stroke engine dynamics and tuning! I've heard real good things about the Polini Corsa kit if you want a balls out screamer! That may be my next kit when the time comes to totally rebuild mine. ;) Otherwise, the Malossi cast iron kit for performance + reliability. That's the one Zombie is running. As Sid said, "stick with a proven product!"
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...glad to hear you're screamin' again shaka!!!!!!!!
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No doubt! I've been doing lots of engine work over the past week. It all seems to have worked in my favor!!!!! ;D
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..i love it when hard work pays off with satisfaction...
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The BEST thing you can do to add a few mph would be, an open element air filt. go up 3-5 jet sizes, and get a malossi reed set (cage, and all). These parts can be had for around $50.00. A couple of fresh plugs will help get the jetting right. The next step would be spending some loot, on a jug kit, larger carb/intake system, and some serious time in fine tuning it all. Getting the cvt a fresh tune up is ALWAYS good too. The after-market parts are a very good investment if you want to do the full set-up, but not real important on their own.
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well i drive this thing to work everyday and i want the least amount of down time and of course i dont wanna use my soule as colateral when purchacing it lol as soon as i get the side cover open im going to take a good look at what ive got pushing me and let u guys know if i should upgrade or nod as far as opening up the carb im still a lil iffy about that but it may be jetted so eventualy ill hafta get inside to if it is now should i go with the 72 cc or the 80 im looking for a lil more top end but want my bike to last for a wile its a daily driver
my old scoot i would even drive in the snow man that was fun
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I would stick with the 70cc kits, I don't know of any "quality" 80cc set-ups!
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I've had the Malossi cast iron kit for 2+ years, and expect it to last the life of the scoot. I too ride every day, and have plenty of power. The only mod I did to the kit was to match the base to the crankcase, and clean up all the port edges. It took me about 2/12 hours to get it all good using a dremel Moto Tool. when you do the jug you will have to re jet the carb. You need more air, and fuel to take advantage of the xtra cc's. I would order a few xtra jets, an open filter, and 3-5 spark plugs to tune the engine. Truth is a modified 50cc scoot DOES whip the dog dirt most 125cc-150cc stock scooters. W/ the 47mm 70cc malossi kit I cruise at 50mph, and can pass in a second. Bigger inin't always better.
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anther quick question how much gear lube do i put in the final drive?
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..dude, do you have a copy of the zx service manual??
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..here's one...
"http://www.kymco.it/contributi/download/MANUALI_OFFICINA/MO%20ZX50%20(inglese).zip"
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question for the experienced. How can you tell when you need to up your carb from stock??
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...when you wake up one morning and think.."dang, wish I had a bigger carb on my scoot"...
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thanks for the service manual and as far as a bigger carb as soon as i find one ill buy it
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http://www.heeters.com/carburetors.shtml (http://www.heeters.com/carburetors.shtml) That's a kit you cannot beat for the price. It is a Delorto 19mm, and will work w/ any 70cc kit you want to use.
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now a new issue its hard to start after sitting for either 10 mins or over night what should i check i have put a brand new plug and cleaned out the air filter im a lil stumped should i check the insulator between the carb and the intake,the reeds ........
the reeds seem to ahve been changed or spaced cause the other engine i have has what looks to be two 1/4 brown blocks and that engine that is in my scoot has a 1/2 in aluminum block what about timing
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..how long did you say you've had this scoot??
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i have had the scoot about a month or so and when i 1st got i would have gag out issues not so much any more now it only does it when i am running at full throttle for a wile the scoot will lose speed and start do sie and then rev right back up and i wont have issues again ive only had it do it once in the past 2 weeks
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...probably old and/or dirty fuel...in the tank...
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I'll bet its the fuel. I bought a 2005 people 50 2t and the previous owner let it sit too long (at least six months with gas in the tank. She didn't use premium either. It would do the same thing you described. I ran the tank pretty low and put in 93 octane without ethenal. By the way, stay away from ethenal enriched fuel. I filled my tank up with a 10% mix and now its running at a higher idle >:( I have'nt found a fix for the issue of using that type of fuel, maybe to put a little oil in with it perhaps.
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..there are many ppl here that swear by the product called "Sea Foam" for those issues...
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Here's the carb I've got, not the same as the one in the pic though, mine has a screw top and flanged mounting. It will bolt up to the stock manifold, but I found the stock manifold and reeds to be quite restrictive!
http://www.mhr-usa.com/carburetor-kits/arreche-19mm-carburetors/arreche-19mm-racing-carburetor-for-honda-elite-kymco-zx.html (http://www.mhr-usa.com/carburetor-kits/arreche-19mm-carburetors/arreche-19mm-racing-carburetor-for-honda-elite-kymco-zx.html)
This manifold also, the middle pic: http://www.mhr-usa.com/intakes/manifolds/motorio-intake-manifolds-for-kymco.html (http://www.mhr-usa.com/intakes/manifolds/motorio-intake-manifolds-for-kymco.html)
That link to the Delorto seems like an awesome deal though!
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shaka's carb is easier to work on, I liked the press-fit clamp of the delorto better tho. Try adding 2oz. of Sea Foam to the next 3 tanks of fuel. I also add 1/2-1oz. of 2t oil to each tank. A new plug, and the fuel may clear it out for you. The carb may need a through cleaning in the end. The jets have atomizers on them that will clog over time, and completely taking the carb. apart, and soaking it for 24-48 hours in Chem Dip will make it all shiny new again.
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now on those aftermarket carbs will i be able to use my factory intake not just shakas ? and as far as the 72 cc kit will i be able to use my exhaust ots a tecnogas
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The Delorto uses either an adapter or an entirely new manifold. The Arreche will fit directly on the stock manifold. If you do a bigger carb you will want a new pipe as well. I would get the Technigas RSII If you plan on going with a BBK. If it will be awhile before you go BBK the Next R is the better choice.
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on the roller weights do i weigh them individualy or all to gether
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you weigh them individually to find out. i just popped one on a set of scales and whala. when you purchase them, they go by the weight of one in a set
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My first set I brought 1 to the post office. Its right across the street. (Had him weigh it for me) The only scale I had then had the gator clip, and pointers.
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gator clip, and pointers.
..just had to go there didn' y'....
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ok so i pulled my cvt cover off and it was greezy as heck and my clutch bell kinda wobbles a lil bit as if its a lil warped my clutch pads were glazed any clue as to where the gunk is coming from or is that normal for a 2 stroke my roller weights are a black in color and the variator sleeve doesnt have the stop ring as far as the clutch springs they are yellow as well as the spring that pushes the clutch pulleys together
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Hey all I had a zx for a bit,tranny same as the people 50 think i ran the 7.0 weights new belt got to about 47mph.Black dust commin from the belt/clutch wear.If you don't know this motor is based on the honda dio LOTS OH MODS.125 cc stroker!Somone bought It before I got to play.Don't think you can go with the color codes from stock kymco all mine were yellow now running white.
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I dont like bursting bubbles Mud, I would replace the clutch. A wobble will stress the shaft to the point of fatigue. Re-check to be sure it is the bell, and not the shaft. Also check your gear oil. You will get loads of dust in the cvt but it shouldn't be "greasy" A can of Carb Clean/Brake Clean will get it all out for you. I would run it for a few days, and open it back up to check the transmission seal. (behind the clutch). Also there is no way to tell who's springs those are. Art is right about the 125 stroker. That was my first option for this scoot. The Dio stroker kit is awesome on a dio tho, and kind of a death trap on the flimsy zx frame. I settled for 60+mph vs 80mph
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Hey zombie I would have thought the opposite I have a real dio from canada (2001)Just couldn't get past the pinner 10 inch tires.Mind you I can wheely the thing tap the brake and hammer it stock 16000km runs like new brakes are lacking(drum)I thought the zx bigger tires disc front and frame not bad would be a good start just didn't have it long enough.Got the kymco,dio still sits.Once again (old decrepid guy)couldnt imagine going that fast on the dio gets squirly in a panic situation.Of course it could all be changed.
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I agree w/ you ! The Dio 125, is really a track scoot. I wouldn't want to ride it on the street. The zx frame has soooo much flex in it that I don't think it could ever compete w/ a race dio. The corners alone are hell. I can feel the bars deflect under any kind of load. I tend to do Most of my braking into a corner w/ the front to preload the shocks for a quick exit, and it feels like a smaller scoot by the time I open the throttle. I have been wanting to build a brace for quite some time, and just haven't gotten to it.
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Funny The one I had went under a dump truck,bent the hell out of the handlebars and frame I bought it for the motor for a couple hundred.The more I looked at it figured I could straighten it and did with a guset right at the crook in the frame seemed great didn't get factory out of it but damn close just fit minus a shave of plastic.Was going to build but someone came by to look at a honda elite 80 I had for sale and made the mistake of letting them compare rides(no contest)triple my money and started building the kymco people ;D
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That's just what I mean. The frame bends real easy, so you can see the flex issue
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Ya didn't look into it to much zx just had better tires,brakes and suspention stock.I bottem the dio over speed bumbs.not that i'm light but no issues with the zx.sold on the people now ;D
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well i put another clutch bell and clutch pads on the scoot the bell dont wobble anymore but i get this nasty chinging sound and a nasty vibration but i had that b4 it smooths out after i get it at higher rpms though but it has always vibrated
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Have you put in a belt?
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yes new belt what kinda lube can i use for the kicker and roller weights
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Regular grease on the startor bendix, and either dry molly on the rollers, or you can leave them as is.
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ok kool srry bout bein a pain as much as i am im still kinda new at this scooter stuff im still havin har starts though once and a wile ill be able to start it up easy i checked the battery and im reading just over 13 volts it mostly has a starting issue when i first start it up but even after i drive it 4 a wile it has hard starts but usualy starts with in the 1st few revs any idea i checked the reg ive checked the bat what else could i check?
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my spark plug boot was causing my hard starts the other day, replaced wit a ngk, started right up.. also you could check your compression, and see if there is any air leaks around carb,intake, head gasket
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should i use soapy water or carb clean for checking for leaks as for plug boots can i use any old boot and wire cause i work in a junk yard and have access to literaly thousands of wires and boots or do i need special boots and wires
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i have used soapy water myself... compression tester works to get an idea if there. well im not sure about a vehicle one, sure it would work but the scoots use a different boot, the screw on type, they are $4.00 at the local shop here.
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well ill give it a try all i gatta do is put the the lil cap on the pin on the end of the plug well lets see what happends
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Just go thru the basics mud, Get a NEW spark plug, clean the air filter, and adjust the idle mix screw. I prefer spraying water around when looking for leaks. Iv'e had toooo many bad experiences spraying flammable liquid, at hot engines
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well ive gone through the air cleaner new plug as far as the carb its still new to me cause there are 2 screws
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hey mud.. yeah, the big one(top) is the idle stop screw, the small one(bottom) is the mix screw. mix screw is 1+-1/4 turns out, the idle screw i believe is set at 2 turns out. should fire right up.. i am learning these oem carbs are good but suck at the same time...lmao
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The easiest way to set the mix is to warm up warm up the scoot. turn the smaller screw either direction 1/4-1/2 turn note any change. rev the scoot, and repeat. you want to turn the mix screw until you get the highest/smoothest rpm's. Next turn the same screw 1/4 turn counter clockwise to richen the mix. This will drop the rpm's from the best to slightly slower. Then you adjust the larger screw(idle set screw) to get the rpm's where you like them. 5 minutes from start to finish!
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thanks guys ill give it a try today and see if it helps
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i may have come across part of my running issue i was coming home from work last night and my scoot started spitting and sputering and missing its azz off like it had a ground issue and at the same time the kill switch wouldnt work wile it was was spitting so when i get home i took the body off and i noticed the plug boot was sloppy and partaly off and i looked at it and saw the lil clip was gone i fortunatly has the old coil off my old cheap chinese scoot so im gunna go see if it helps 2day
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Sounds like a winner! Hands on is always the best approach! That boot will unscrew from the wire. Clip about 1/2" off the scoots wire so you have a clean end to start from.
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ok thanks alot srry if im a pain
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There is only one pain in the arse on this forum, and he hasn't posted in quite awhile. It,s no trouble at all Bro... My ears are ringing... I think he heard me!
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THAT'S RIGHT!!.... I DID HEAR YOU!!!...IMMA WATCHING YOU!!..ROFLMFAO....
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AAAarrrrgggggg! You are not him, but I think you might be related to each other. Just kidding Bro! I wouldn't want the batman mad at me.
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it's all good man...lmao i know i've been a pain in several asses around here, not just yours..thankfully you all still answer..,..
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Dude SERIOUS? No-one is a pain here! It's all good. The forum was put here for everyone to share, and enjoy. (except that one fk) There's always gotta be one, even if he is made up...... Tag your it~ No tag backs...
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lol so what kinda plugs are the best for performance and is there any way to keep the oil form building up on the outside of the pipe?
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the ngk br8hsa is the plug for the zx, one i use, good plugs.. you can try the br9 plug since you have a kit, after you get her dailed all the way in, iridium plugs(bout 12-15$, y u dial it in first)... what pipe are you running???.i am running the next r....lmao nope!! have to clean mine every few days just to keep it nice and chrome. you will have the oil residue, i know it sux buuut
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I am using a bp 7-8 hs. My head is milled .5mm so I needed a shorter electrode
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im using a techigas pipe in chrome but unfortunatly the scoot died today it will start spit and spuder but as soon as i let off the gas it dies and wont start back up had to leave it at work :'( :'( :'( other than the cdi havin isses what other main problems do the zx's have
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i had a few issues in the begining(some because of me too), i have 18,100km on her now,(been riding the sh** out of her,lmao,also live in COUNTRY), no problems here,(well, i lied, my one mirror flops,wore out i guess..lol)...of course have changed piston,rings. did you check the cdi?? are you sure thats it??
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well im not shure exacly if its the cdi thats whay i asked if there where other electrical issues that are comon with the zx's bike spuddered and backfired 2 nights ago i had a coil and boot one of my old 4 stroke scoots and it seemed to corect the problem i went to work 2dat and then to lunch bike ran awsome when i get ready to drive home it spudderd and backfired and when i let it rev down to an idle it just stalled out and died i then tried and tried for over 2 hrs pum is working fine pulled exhaust off to see if it would start and still no fire but i get great spark fuel is my next thing to look at what about the genorators do they go bad often ? im drawing blanks here
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If you are running an aluminum cylinder you will want a 9-8 temp plug, cast iron 7-8. I'm currently running a 9 with my Airsal kit.
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Does it start right back up when it is COLD? That is generally what a bad cdi/stator will do. The 4t coil you used will not work for too long either. They are not made for the high rpm's of a 2t. Ebay is full of high performance coils for under 25 bucks delivered. Provo scooter is where I got mine. $19.99 delivered. It sounds like you have developed a vacuum leak from what you described tho... Backfire, and sputtering usually shows a lean condition. Try pulling the carb, and give it a good clean up. you may find something loose or cracked, or otherwise out of wack while you are doing that. "discombobulated"
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As zombie said about something being cracked, I found cracks in my carb. insulator. I sealed it by rubbing RTV silicone into the cracks and that held until I got the new one, (10 months), our parts supply is a little "discombobulated" 'round these parts. :D
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ok guys im pretty shure its the cdi and it had a vac leak this mornin i got workin on it and changed the vac line it started up great even with the electric start no issues as soon as i put the covers back on and let it sit in the sun back to no start so i tried a trick that i learned from workin on honda cars i put ice directly on the cdi after a few mins it started right up i let it idle for about 10 15 mins and it started runnin like cucka poo wont rev barely idled so i have determined its the cdi what yall think am i wrong or should i look else where
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That is exactly the way 90% of the zx cdi failures act. I had three in less than a year do that.
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now is it only after u derestrict it or even when u leave em be
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Start up up new thread please so I can follow this better. It's taken me a little longer to find this since its in the new member thread. This is kinda the same issue I'm having and a am VERY INTERESTED in following it.
THANKS !
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MY APPOLOGIES MUDFREEK !!!!!
AS I started to read YOUR/this thread again, I found it's NOT for NEW MEMBERS but your thread you started for YOUR SCOOT !!!
I feel like an A** now!
SO SORRY MUDFREEK !
By the way MUDFREEK, thanks for the iced CDI idea ! and hows your scoot running now?
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now is it only after u derestrict it or even when u leave em be
I'd like to know the answer to that also.
Is running the CDI DE-restricted any harder on a CDI than a restricted one ?
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well rob im waiting on new parts to come in and ill let u know as soon as i put em on did the ice work 4 u ?
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I am not sure but i think zombie said that derestricting the cdi by bridging the two green wires is actually shorting the rev limiter.
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well rob im waiting on new parts to come in and ill let u know as soon as i put em on did the ice work 4 u ?
Well yes and no.
It wouldn't start @ all with it frozen but when it thawed out again it seemed like it worked again but not as good as before. I'd rather have it fail HERE than out on the road.
In my other post I went through the testing of my other electrical parts & I know for sure my rectifier is bad. SHAKA mentioned that he had the same type of problem as mine and replacing both the 2 resistors & the rectifier solved it. I figure I might as well replace both also because I've already got it apart & it's not very expensive. I'll check prices down @ the local KYMOCO dealer Monday.
If I do get it running (Murphy's Law apply's here !) Monday w/o having to buy a CDI (cross my fingers) I'll order one from SUTAI.
I may even see if I can get ALL my electrical parts there if my local KYMCO stealership prices are outrageous.
So I guess it is a bit rougher on the CDI if it's essentially shorting it out then.
Thank You for the reply.
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ok so i put the new cdi in and solved the running issue still got starting issue but i had to back off the mix screw almost all the way out any ideas b4 i just had to do 1 1/4 turns and she ran good elec start hard but kick usualy on the 1st time i also did a comp test and im running about 100psi and i had to unplug the auto inricher
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I'd like to know the answer to that also.
Is running the CDI DE-restricted any harder on a CDI than a restricted one ?
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Sorry for the delay guys. Suitai's service rep (R&D) explained to me that when you short the wires to de-restrict you are in essence drawing more current thru the unit. There is a 10% margin built into the cdi, and that is why some last, and others dont. Also Higher reving engines will create more heat in the cdi, and a "race engine" will not finish more than a few laps w/ a shorted cdi. . Mud, It sounds like you have a simple clogged pilot jet. Use a sewing needle to clear it out, and be sure to remove ALL the parts from the body. That wat you won't miss anything. Rob, The reg. cdi, and ballast resistor are about $120.00 shipped. Yours does' sound like you will get it w/ the new cdi. The reg. can short drawing all the voltage out of the stator. Even tho the reg side is isolated from the Ign side, voltage spikes can do strange things to the running of the scoot.
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witch one is the pilot jet ?
ive figured out where the main jet is and in the service manual it only shows main jet and slow jet
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The slow jet is the pilot. It is TINY, So imagine what could clog it. EVERYTHING.
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ok thanks do i need to take the bowl off to clean it or can i just poke it wile its on the bike
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..youi'll have to remove the bowl to be sure...
:-\
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You really have to take it all apart. Someone suggested guitar string to clean the jets, and I use sewing needles. Either way the parts are TINY, and you have to just about use a magnifying lens to be sure it is all clean. Even the carb body has to be clean, and clear.
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i have looked all through my manual and i cant find the location of the slow jet
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It looks like a brass tube in the front part of the bowl. Remove the mix screw, and try blowing some carb cleaner thru. It MIGHT blow any sediment out once you remove the bowl. Just don't stare at it when you do. It'll spray out of places you don't expect.
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ive figured out where the main jet is and in the service manual it only shows main jet and slow jet
..huh??
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It MIGHT blow any sediment out once you remove the bowl
..i'm takin' this all in...
..i gots th' same carb, or similer right??
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if u got a zx50 u got the same carb to my knowlige
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hey slinger, what i am gathering from art, your carb is different, same brand i guess but way different..
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..i got the same carb as art's stock......wondering if it was the same as a stock zx...
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It's the keihin pb,with the 7mm main jets,hard to get stock stuff for,i think a call to keihin is in order the only thing holding me back right now on the stock build,I need more jets! :D
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if you get anywhere with them, let ME know...lmao...i need sum to.... ;)
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could faulty reeds be part of my startin issues cause i can kick start it easier then electro plus i noticed that there is air blowing back through the vac tube
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ok ive gone through all my resistors and generator power regulator and anything that needed ohm testing and everythings up to pari went and bought brand new plugs i have puta a new plug boot on it and trimed down the wire for a fresh conection i put a new cdi i have blown out every lil nick and crany in the carb and compleatly flushed it out new vacume fuel pump/pitcock thingyfresh fuel filter and vacume lines iol injector is in the check lines so im not over oiling or under oiling my plug is a nice brown color but when i had the old fuel pump on the bike it would still run with out vacume to it ind i would get air blowing back through the hose any ideas
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You should check the spring in them anyways while your in there. I'm not sure what it's called or the procedure for doing so, but I'm sure there is one.
OR
If you just want to check the price on them & slap a new set in (they shouldn't be too expensive) it can't hurt.
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spring in what may i ask
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The spring (if thats what you call it) in the metal reeds.
I'm guessing here but the only way that you would get "blowback" is if the reeds don't have enough ?spring? in them?
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Hey guys, Sorry it's been awhile! There are "stoppers" or "limiters" on top of the reeds. They cannot fail. If you have something wrong there it is generally a crack on one of the reeds. I'm not sure what you mean by "fuel pump" on the zx there is none. One quick test for the reeds can be done with a vacuum cleaner that has a blower output. Something like a shop vac. Remove the spark plug, and set the piston to bottom dead center. Make an adapter that will blow air into the spark plug hole. Using a bungee to hold the throttle wide open you will feel air blowing out of the carb IF the reeds are cracked. If the reeds are good there will be no air flow. give it a try, and post what you get>
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ok thanks and as far as the fuel pump its the pitcock thingy screwed to the tank ive herd thats what its called on other scooter sites
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Petcock, as long as we know what your talking about is all that matters. This is all a learning experience!
Speaking of learning experience......
I bought a KZ 400 motorcycle and thought my petcock was plugged/broken. They usually have 3 positions on a motorcycle off,main and reserve. My petcock only seemed to flow on what seemed like was the "off" position when I took the hose off the carb. The motorcycle new to me so I figured I would ride it like it was until I could replace it.
So I found a replacement gasket kit that cost me like $30 bucks only to find out (when I was ready to put it in) That it was an AUTOMATIC type of petcock!
D'oH !
That is exactly what the ZX-50 has....except the ZX-50 is fully automatic (need documentation though) meaning that it will only let the gas flow when the motor is (for lack of a better word) sucking for the gas.
IE; turning the motor over and pulling a vacuum on the tank the gas will flow into the carb.
SO to answer your question......
That maybe a reason why it kick starts easier that the electric starts...
I say this because I notice sometimes when my MC sits for a week or so w/o starting it will take awhile to start unless I turn my petcock to "free flow" to get gas into the carb to get it started easily, then after that it will start ok providing I use it regularly and there is gas in the carb. bowl to get it going enough to start the petcock going again.
So yours just may need that extra whoomp of the kick start to get the gas flowing through the auto petcock and into you carb!
Now I'm not saying that this IS whats wrong with your bike but a possible scenario.
P.S. sorry this was so long but I try to explain EVERYTHING so it's easier to understand. I know if someone answers me in a sentence or two that I have a LOT of questions!
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thank u for the info its helps understand it a lil more
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The 3 positions on your fuel tap would be prime, on and reserve. The prime is as it suggests and primes the carbs without the need for vacuum to open the tap to allow fuel to flow.
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The 3 positions on your fuel tap would be prime, on and reserve. The prime is as it suggests and primes the carbs without the need for vacuum to open the tap to allow fuel to flow.
Exactly, I have to put it on "prime" if it hasn't been started in awhile to get it started easier.
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These kymco petcocks do go bad over time. It is activated by vacuum from the INTAKE manifold. There is a thin (1/8") hose that connects between a diaphragm on the petcock, and the intake manifold. Since there should always be fuel in the bowl of the carb. the vacuum should have no initial effect. What happens MOST of the time w/ hard starting on the electric start is... The voltage draw from the relay, and the starter motor reduces the voltage in the battery to the point the cdi does not get enough voltage to fire. so kick starting works when the elec. start does not. To test the petcock you can pull the thin hose off the intake, and the fuel line off the carb. Suck the end of the vacuum line, and fuel should flow freely out of the fuel line. I recently had an idle flooding issue, and found the diaphragm had ruptured leaving the fuel line open, and pulling fuel thru the vacuum line as well. I fixed it by getting a manual petcock from a Honda dealer in Tallahassee, and plugging the vacuum line at the manifold. Sorry if this is off topic, I just wanted to explain how it all works
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I don't know if this would have worked or not....
could you have just plugged the vacuum line on the kymco petcock?
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now is there any way to ramp up the voltage enough so i would have no issues with the electrical system
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For Rob, Yeah, but then I would have no way to shut the petcock off, and in MY case it was allready stuck in the open position. So it was no good to begin with. For Mudfreak, My stock battery was a H-4, and I use an H-5 now. I don't have an electric starter anymore but the scoot is always solid on the electrics. You may be able to upgrade your battery in the same way. Go w/ the biggest size you can fit in the compartment, and also go for a gell cell type vs the lead acid.
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well i figured out one of my running issues that i had b4 my cdi took a crap i would be goin down the road wot and the scoot would just start dying like it was over fueling or something it would just bog out after it just nearly stalled out it would rev back up and no issues for a couple of days or a week when i put my new cdi on i deristricted it and guess what same thing so i decided to take the the two green wired back apart from each other and i havent had any more issues but unfortunatly i can only go 35 any thing over and the bike kinda spits a lil bit
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i have actually experianced that going down a long hill at wot, seemed to cut out sortof similar to a rev limiter, but never any issue after that spot... did you order an oem cdi?? aftermarket ones are normally unresticted from the get go.. maybe we need one tuned to higher rpms??????
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It's that pesky original CDI acting up again..? I just REALLY hope that's what my problem is?
It seems that little black box makes scooters do mysterious things...
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well i hope mine stays ok fir a bit, got a touch of engine work mon/tues.... woo hooooo!!!..wanna test it real good and of course redo(again) cvt...lol........
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You just may be too lean on the top end rob. Try opening your jet, and see what it does. The factory jet is set up for the limited rpm's of the restricted cdi. Once you de-restrict you also need more fuel to keep the temp. down
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my jet is a 90 what size jet would i need or drill bit size to go bigger?
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hey rob, you could look at my oem carb thread...maybe that would help you...i used a .914mm microbit.. that has me pretty dam close, want a touch bigger but my next bit is .965, way to big at this point.. the parts house has the microbits...$9.00... you will tell a difference...lmao. thanks to zombie, shaka,slinger...i am a firm believer on rejetting
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anyone know if i can get the mx bar conversion kit for my zx or would i have to make one i have an old set of barsi can chop up to make the adapter