KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 125 to 300 => Agility 125 => Topic started by: viclava on March 01, 2010, 08:52:28 PM
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I have about 2500 miles on my agility and have service it at required intervals etc. I have noticed that before I put it away this last winter, that it's jerking when shifting between what seems to be a 1st and second gear. Is there something I should be adjusting or something? I have one month left of my two year warranty and want to get this taken care of. BTW, it's an 2007 model.
Thanks in advance, ???
Scott
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The jerking could be any one of several PROBLEMS. May be broken roller/s, clutch spring, loose clutch or variator. I would have it looked at before depending on it getting you home. There are no shifting gears in the cvt. it is a belt pulley set up that normally operates smooth as silk. If you get it sorted out please post to let us know what they find. http://www.stadiumyamaha.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/default.aspx (http://www.stadiumyamaha.com/pages/parts/viewbybrand/default.aspx) This page shows the workings of your cvt. Hope it helps some.
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Exactly the same thing is happening with my Agility125 now. Could you post what the problem turned out to be?
Thanks,
Emil
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it could be problem with belt/clutch, think its normal it will pass....
from time to time grease and dirt goes to clutch and belt, but if you take ur scoot to long ride and get heavy on gas pedal...lol
its gona be OK--
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Well, it has been around for at least the last 500kms and it seems to become worse. When I take off at the traffic light the jerk is sometimes strong enough to lift my front wheel off! And even though that's kind of cool it usually really annoys me and doesn't feel safe.
I don't really feel like spending lots of money for unnecessary parts. Or you think a cleaning might do?
-Emil
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I didn't see the miles on your scoot but if over 5k should just replace belt and rollers if going in to clean the clutch any way. You will now have spares. The clutch should be deglazed from time to time. Some brake cleaner and some fine sand paper should do it for ya, plus clean out the rest of the cvt area.
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I didn't see the miles on your scoot but if over 5k should just replace belt and rollers
At 12.000 kms, on A125 the belt is still within factory specs (but only that) and rollers are just slightly worn in one spot.
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Sigh - Let's say not the belt or the weight rollers and no dirt either. Maybe the clutch spring?
I also have the feeling that the scooter accelerates a bit weaker than it used to (before the jerk kicks in). After about 20 minutes of riding it usually becomes a bit milder. When I ride the scooter at "jerk speed" - that's about 5-8mph - the Agility kind of starts jumping under my butt. Oh yes, and it reads something like 5 1/2 k kilometers now - so something like 4800 in reality...
-Emil
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My thoughts are if you have it all torn down to clean the clutch might as well change out all so you know where you stand plus you'll have spares.. If on a budget clean the clutch and see how it go's. Keep an eye out for broken springs and things.
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Just another thought It seems kymco tried to run the same tranny in the 125, 150 and 200 I noticed the s200 did not have a well matched contra spring for its set up and the gears should be taller. The belt realy rattles around. so I put in a stiffer clutch spring and it helped, may help you guys out too.
I did not have the same symptoms. Almost all the cvt parts are interchangable in these models. who knows what springs went in that day at the factory ::)
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Well you see the thing is, I am kind of on a budget but also hardly have any time to work on the scooter. I really have to get that thing fixed on one Sat or Sunday afternoon. So I thought a best guess from you guys would help me decide what to order (hopefully not too much). Then, with some luck, I could fix it on a weekend and ride it happily to work on Monday.
By the way clutch spring(s?). Witch part is that exactly. I couldn't find it on Stadium Yamaha. Is it those 3 springs from the part#22300 group? (The image is from Stadium Yamaha). Also, I think I once read a thread here suggesting a stronger clutch spring than original but I can't find that posting now. Do you know which one that was?
(http://webservices.motorsportdealers.com/parts/partImages/KYM/3/03/04/0017.Gif)
Thanks,
Emil
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Well it's hard to say without looking at it (what you need) But the #23233 is what i'm refering to. I don't have your model so not sure which is best. Usually the white spring for your bike from malossi is a good bet. You may need nothing but de glazing the clutch and cleaning.
To get the clutch off you will need an impact driver and a 17mm or 14mm wrench most likely. The whole job don't take to long if you have the right tools. You only need 3 or 4 bolts to hold the outer cover in place while testing.
Got to open it up to see whats going on in there. Thats your best bet, the jerking should not be harmfull just annoying unless your getting a squeel with it than something is not right inside.
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Ok, so I guess I'll start off with cleaning and a stiffer clutch spring (in the manual referred to as "driven face spring").
Maybe also the three small clutch springs? As I understand those are the ones that engage the clutch and I imagine that my problem could be that the clutch engages to early because those are worn out or one is broken. Also, if I use slightly stronger ones than original, wouldn't that get me off the traffic light faster?
Can someone please tell me which replacement springs I exactly need? Have been surfing around for a while now and can't seem to find the answer. It's a 2009 Agility125.
Thanks,
Emil
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Hey, I had the exact same issue, and found that if I removed the sidecover and cleaned out the dust from the belt etc, it went away! A few others had the same experience, so maybe try that first then make your changes....That said, the springs and rollers make a better ride anyway, so worth making the changes.
Holty
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Thanks, I want to try my luck with cleaning this weekend.
How did you clean it? Did you remove any parts but the cover?
Can I spray brake cleaner into the clutch case or is this not a good idea?
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You will have to take it appart
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Damn. :P
Do you think I can take the clutch out without a clutch holding tool?
And as I a probably also have to take the clutch apart - how hard is that really?
I have seen a video on youtube where a guy holds the clutch with a vice and presses the cover down with his hands while unscrewing it? So I am wondering how tough that clutch spring is... (maybe it was superman).
Any suggestions?
Emil
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u need pneumatic tool, az seen on youtube....or locking tool..
also u can make ur own, think its on web too..
2planks of stiff metal and 3 m10 screws..its easy..made my own..it works..
but ull need to watch for Nm, do not overscrew...
1.own locking tool
2.Nm key
3.table for bring on clutch
4.white paint pencil for marks on clutch screw
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G'day Emil, if you have someone to help you, get them to sit on the scooter with the rear wheel on the ground and hold the brakes on while you undo the clutch bell nut, then you can put the scooter back on the stand and remove the clutch. The hardest part about opening the clutch is finding a spanner to fit the nut, mine was 39mm. The pressure on the spring is not a lot, but yours being a 125 might have a stronger spring. If you have a vice, use that to gently clamp the clutch while you loosen the nut. When you have the nut loose you can put the clutch down on the table or floor and one of you hold the spring pressure while the other removes the nut, then carefully release the pressure on the spring. Once you have done it once, you will work out what is best for you. Good luck and happy modding. :)
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..i made these..
..this to hold the bell..
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..and the clutch compressor..
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I never got around to making a compressor, once I did it the first time I sort of forgot about it.
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..i made that before i even tried separating my clutch...been using it ever snce..
..i can sit in the recliner and disassemble my clutch!!
;D
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Hello,
Finally did it - and the jerk is gone!
It was indeed caused by dirt in the clutch case or to be more specific by oil in the clutch outer case and on the clutch pads.
It looked like the oil leaked into the area from the inner bearing. There is an oil seal n the clutch case that prevents oil to leak into the area where the drive belt runs but unfortunately nothing that prevents leaks into the clutch area and that means that the problem will almost definitely re-occur.
Since this would be a manufacture weakness I think fixing it should be covered by the warranty. Bu then on the other hand I feel like it's better not to bother since I would probably be told that it happened because I abused the scooter (or some other stupid excuse); and I would end up having to pay for it.
Anyway - here again for everyone with a 'jerk in the scooter':
All that needs to be done is removing the clutch outer case (in the rear) with the help of some sort of flywheel holder (sitting on the scooter and pulling the brake wasn't enough in my case), and cleaning the outer clutch and the clutch pads with brake cleaner. Don't get the cleaner into the the clutch assembly though. Sanding the pads a bit after cleaning is also a good idea. The clutch assembly itself doesn't need to be taken apart.
-emil
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Thanks, I want to try my luck with cleaning this weekend.
How did you clean it? Did you remove any parts but the cover?
Can I spray brake cleaner into the clutch case or is this not a good idea?
You need a rough brush and/or air compressor.
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Mmh - I don't think an air brush would have been right. That would blow the dirt only around, if anything at all. For the clutch pads a tooth brush was fine, for the outer clutch I used paper towel.
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Finally did it - and the jerk is gone!
That's great, Emil! Glad to hear it!!
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Finally did it - and the jerk is gone!
..nobody likes a jerk..lol.....
..congrats!!!!
;D
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But now you cant "chuck a mono" away from the lights anymore! :D Well done...now time to start modifying.....
Holty in Oz
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Actually I would love to mod my scoot a bit. But then on the other hand I don't want to spend money if I can't be certain of the results; and also I generally rather ride then spending my time in the garage. Maybe I will change to something bigger next year like a little dual sport. Although that might get me into trouble when parking it on Boston's sidewalks. The new Genuine Blur 220 also seems pretty cool. Just wish the price was cooler...
At least for now I got rid of that damn jerk and the unwanted wheelies. Next is replacing the fork oil and getting rid of the front wheel wobble.
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Next is replacing the fork oil and getting rid of the front wheel wobble.
Hi, Emil. I was wondering if you already bought the "fork oil". If you did can you tell me where you found it and how much it cost, please?
Also, about your "wheel wobble" I noticed another post of yours today and I wanted to ask you a question. Did the wheel begin wobbling around the same time as you heard that "grinding" noise in the front brake area? I'm trying to see if these issues are connected or if it could be 2 or 3 separate issues. Thanks.
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Hi Rianna,
I bought a 7W at a local store for $12. It's this one: http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/4/22/269/7386/ITEM/Maxima-Racing-Fork-Fluid.aspx (http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/4/22/269/7386/ITEM/Maxima-Racing-Fork-Fluid.aspx). But I haven't replaced the oil yet.
As for the 'grinding' and the wobble - they didn't appear simultaneously and I don't think they are connected.
Thinking of another post that I read here it rather seems that the wobble started when the oil didn't do it's job well anymore. That would of course mean that the wobble was always there but that the front suspension buffered it.
So even if my wobble disappears after the oil change I will still have to look into the wobble problem. Just don't know how yet.. rotating, slime, dyna beads, ....?
-emil
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Thanks, for the link for the fork oil, Emil. I thought about the dyna beads as well. If the tire is the source of the wobbling then dyna beads should settle it. I'm just wondering if that doesn't just cover up the real problem, rather than cure it, if it's not the tire causing it.