KymcoForum.com
Scooters - Big Bore => Xciting 500 => Topic started by: Dr. Scooter on February 27, 2010, 05:17:49 AM
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I have wrecked my scooter twice now. It has happened both times making a turn. The first time I eased out of my driveway started turning right and it acted like my front wheel locked up. The second time was a little more expensive have not fixed it yet. But I was pulling away from a stop sign turning left and again like the front wheel locked up. When disassembling the front wheel and brakes what do I need to look for if I cant figure it out I may be forced to sell my bike. By the way clear weather dry roads about 20 degrees f
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...dude...start with the basics...make sure your rotor / caliper to wheel fasteners are up to snuff...
..bearings aren't crapped out, but i doubt that coulda caused so much drag as to lock up your front wheel...
..maybe the rotor...
..but it sounds like a caliper / braking problem...maybe...anybody else?????
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Question: Did you "high side" or "low side"?
That is, when it happened on the right turn, did you fall on the right side or left side?
Same question on the other incident.
The reason I'm asking is since it was 20 degrees, could it just possibly have been black ice on the road? Very hard to see sometimes.
If it was black ice, then you would have probably low sided. But if it really was the front wheel locking up, you would've prob high sided.
Or maybe a bit of ice on an oily spot on the pavement? Just guessing here.
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...wow...awesome line of thought hoolander...
..i too ride in those conditions, but that possibility never crossed th' noggin....
:o
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It's just that I have a hard time believing Arkie's bike would have mechanical problems at this point. Not that that's impossible.
Or could the motor have just stalled? That would feel like hitting the brakes and produce a low side fall.
I know when mine's not quite warmed up, it'll sometimes stutter a moment when starting off, and if I happen to be turning too, it's a WHOAH, WHOOPS moment.
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...yup..i could see that...those X5s are pretty heavy....
...Arkie's scooter is fairly new, i guess then...
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2 times on left turns sounds like bearings. OOOr I can't left doughnut. Jack the front tire off the ground and try to wiggle it from side to side.
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...but i don't think a stalled motor is the answer..Arkie woulda picked up on that...
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Slow your roll and post what you figure happened. It may help someone else! Check the front end.
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It was one right turn and one left turn. I looked back on Arkie's posts and he got it with 1200 miles on it and hasn't had it all that long. He did have posts about ticking noise when applying front brake, though.
Arkie, what was the outcome of that front ticking stuff? Did you resolve that?
Geesh, I'm so sad your beautiful scoot's been layed down. I hope this prob is something simple and you don't sell it. Also hope you didn't get HURT!
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It's just that I have a hard time believing Arkie's bike would have mechanical problems at this point. Not that that's impossible.
Or could the motor have just stalled? That would feel like hitting the brakes and produce a low side fall.
I would not say this would happen, especially not at low speed while turning left or right. I have had a number of engine cut offs and never fell off. Once my engine cut off on Kawasaki 750 when I was cornering heavily (>150 km/h speed) on a twisty highway and nothing happened.
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Seen as it is happening going around turns both way I am going to look at bad brake lines Caliper problems or the ticking noise I am going to look heavy into also The roads are clear so no chance of black ice. Thank you for all the help guys I love my bike.
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Ok I have narrowed it down to the left front caliper it drags harder then the right
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From the manual:
TROUBLESHOOTING
Brake drag
• Caliper not sliding properly • Contaminated brake disc/pad
• Leaking hydraulic system • Worn brake disc/pad
• Worn caliper piston seal • Warped/deformed brake disc
• Worn master cylinder piston cups • Caliper not sliding properly
• Bent brake lever
Arkie, do you have the service manual? I can post the front brake section here if you'd like. Or email it to you. let me know.
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The rotor is not warped because it drags the whole time you spin the wheel The rotor almosted looks glazed but I am not for sure putting it in the shop monday
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Well there it is. The caliper is siezing the rotor. There should be 0 drag. I would make a case for the dealer to be responsable for any damage as the caliper must be defective. arm chair quaterbacking I know. better damaged parts, and pride than serious injury...
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what about tunning that one sides pads over some sand paper to knock it down a little
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Well, if you do that, it might turn freely when you first check it. But the caliper is self adjusting and will try to tighten up again.
The most common thing that goes wrong with calipers is the lubricating grease drys up and the caliper can't release anymore.
Common solution: take it apart and grease inside the lil rubber boots just like the manual says. Use high temp grease available in auto parts stores. Sometimes you can even get it in little tiny 1 use tubes for next to nothing.
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If you are mechanicly inclined, hoolander is on the right track. If you are not so sure the dealer may be a better option. That's alot of weight to have broken brakes
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what about tunning that one sides pads over some sand paper to knock it down a little
..dunno about the xciting, but on my agility, the pads are not reversable...
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Left rotor is glazed over cleaned the pads up with some 120 grit sand paper. Going to take a die grind with a soft rolock disc and clean the rotor and grease the sliding pins. I have been working on cars for quite some time now so this is a light task for me. I may even try and bleed the front brakes. I am having trouble with the thought what if the grease on the pins currently if it is freezing at the low temps we are having or not. ???
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Aluminum based anti seize is what I have been using for thirty years. Also Blue locktight on the threads. Check that the piston/s move freely in the caliper. While it is possible the caliper is binding on the pins, I more suspect the piston/s inside.
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Definately do bleed the brakes. Moisture or air bubbles in the line will cause the symptom you are having. It could be what started the whole thing.
Remember to syphon as much of the old fluid out of the master cylinder as much as you can and start bleeding with it topped off with new fluid. Keep checking the fluid level frequently as you bleed so you don't suck it dry.
And don't let brake fluid get on any pretty plastic.
Sorry so bossy. ;)
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A_R it's time for an update on those brakes, how are things working out. I got into some serious rain yesterday after work and as it was the first time I been out in the rain on this scoot I was worried about the handling. A few thoughts I had was how well the stock tyres would grip from a hard pull away and into the corners and how the brakes would be affected by the wet conditions. I did take things a bit slower and with more caution than in the dry and must say the scoot handled very well. No problems at all, I had no scary moments or any issues with the handling. As far as the traffic goes there were some serious accidents and huge traffic build-up. The wife who works on the other side of town uses at least the last half of the same route I do and finishes an hour before I do so she normally gets home about 40" before me. Well yesterday she got home 30" after me, stuck in traffic, while I just slipped on by with this huge smile on my face in spite of the rain. Then the protection is so good I was hardly wet at all. I just love this scoot. Getting near due for that 4000km service then I'm going to chat to the dealer about those malossi kits and things you guys are talking about. Regards from Durban RSA.
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Well Guys digging further into my problem I am perplexed at the thought of the front right brake being tied into the rear I particularly dont care for this Idea at all. But it is not my design so I am going to leave it be I am going to pull the pistons out this coming weekend inspect them Like Sherlock Holmes would, grease the sliding pins up well and bleed my brakes. Then a waiting game till I can afford the damaged mirror and panel remplacement.
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Well Guys digging further into my problem I am perplexed at the thought of the front right brake being tied into the rear I particularly dont care for this Idea at all. But it is not my design so I am going to leave it be I am going to pull the pistons out this coming weekend inspect them Like Sherlock Holmes would, grease the sliding pins up well and bleed my brakes. Then a waiting game till I can afford the damaged mirror and panel remplacement.
..whaat???
..is that true??
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Very true you have to brakes when using the rear and one when using the front check under a delay valve in the service manual
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Ok guys I need some help has anyone done brakes on The Xciting 500 I have some questions I need answered asap please I am on yahoo im stophatinpits Please guys I want to be riding before monday
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What are the ?'s Arkie? Brakes are brakes... They all work the same way!
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The metal plates the clip on are the required for you brakes to work because that is what is causing my problems
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The clips are there to prevent the pads from vibrating. W/ out the clips the pads will float around in the caliper, and cause much worse troubles. Can you post a Pict of the situation? Or explain how they are a prob?
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causing the pads not to move smoothhly
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Could the clips be warped or bent? I've taken calipers apart and had them fall out in pieces from having broken from the heat and stress. Or maybe you've just got some defective clips or pads???
If they look ok, maybe try polishing the edges of em with fine sandpaper or a dremel.
Some manuals say you should replace them every time you replace pads but I usually re-use them.
Don't know if there are rights and lefts or inners and outers on this model.
By the way, whenever I've installed new pads or worked on caliper brakes for any reason, I always seem to find that the wheel doesn't want to turn freely by hand untill I've driven a bit and used the brakes a number of times. Sort of a break in period I guess you'd say.
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I would be lead to believe they maybe slightly warped on one side but bending spring steel is no easy task and having it perfect
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You got that right! Well, how about this. Can you take the ones out of the back brake and use them up front? I don't even know if that'll work and you wouldn't have enough to do both front brakes. But you could use the best ones of the lot up front. Put the questionable ones on the back.
If it did work, then at least you wouldn't have the FRONT brake acting up.
Have you bled all brakes yet?
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I was in the process when I came across this the problem is on the right caliper if that help
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I looked at the parts book and all pads for front and rear are the same. So are the springs.
But I think you should proceed with bleeding and see how it all works then.
I see it is the right front which is tied into the rear brake.
The service manual also talks about bleeding the delay valve, but not sure if they mean you gotta do that or if it gets bled automatically when you bleed the right front. But by all means you should bleed the back brake too.
It also says that if bleeding is difficult -- to wait a while and do it again because it may take a while for very small bubbles to be ready to bleed out.
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I am playing with the right front caliper off the bike tweaking the spring clip ever so lightly trying to find the sweet spot for the pads to slide just right
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Now you're talkin!! If you mess it up, can always take the one out of the back. ;)
By the way, the manual says not to take out the retainer, which is the thingy opposite the spring clip. Says only take that out if "replacing". Who knows.
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That side I have not bothered Just the spring clip I did some tweak since my last post and got slightly smoother operation on the pads sliding in and out
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Sounds like you're just about there, bro.
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Brother I sure hope so because it ius riding weather here finally I want to take it out and stretch it out
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Ok so I am now bleeding my brakes cross our fingers and hope this works guys