KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 125 to 300 => People 250 => Topic started by: ispud on February 22, 2010, 07:12:41 PM
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Getting close to 2k miles and thinking about changing to synthetic oil. Any suggestions? I was thinking of using Shell Rotella 5/40, because it is what I use in my Aprilia and they sell it at Walmart, so it's easy to get.
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and it seems I read somewhere to not use synthetic for first 2k miles. i might be delusional!!
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You are right ispud. The NEW engine parts need to have some friction in order to "seat" or wear in. Full synth is too slick for any of that initial wear to occur. Thats where the benefit of swapping out for it comes in. There will be almost zero wear after using full synth. I have run different brands over the years, and have my personal favs. but any of the top dogs will do. My engines are 2 stroke on my scoots. so I only have gear oil, fork oil, and 2t oil to deal w/. In my cars/trucks, I have always used full synth. for all the components. I have posted here before that the only oil related failure I have had in the past 20+ years was w/ an organic 2t oil. In my opinion full synth is the best preventative measure you can take.
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changed the oil today. the old oil had a lot of metal filings in it - the filter is just not any good - the screen is too course. Any alternatives?? Does that o ring on the screen cover need replacing?? I blew one on my Aprilia and almost drained all the oid before discovery.
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"O" rings like EVERY gasket should be replaced EVERY time they are disturbed. I re-use at my own risk. If you want to go w/ a finer screen it is easy to cut one from stainless steel. The filings are for the most part normal, although I still have NO idea how the shapes of the pieces are formed, and where they come from. I think Kymco uses the gauge of screen they do to minimize clearing of the screen, and still allow oil flow. A finer mesh will impede the flow once it "clogs". For a tech. Junkie it's no big deal to clean, but for a weekend rider over 3-4 years the screen they give is a compromise.
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it's tempting to pull the screen and leave it out, why do maintenance on this thing? I haven't seen anything in it the 4 or 5 times I have cleansed it - the oil is loaded with crap and the screen is clean - defies my logic - I wish there was a real filter.
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The trouble w/ a true filter is there is not enough oil pressure for one to work. you could mod to a dry sump set up. Also runing w/out a screen is asking for trouble Just imagine a tiny piece of stray metal going into a bearing race at 40-50 mph. A super fine mesh screen would be the best compromise
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The trouble w/ a true filter is there is not enough oil pressure for one to work.
But there is in a Buddy 125 or 150? What am I missing?
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Is that the same engine?
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Not the same, but how different do you think they would be?
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ring around the rosey!
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Oh yeah! I would still consider a finer screen in lieu of none at all.
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Seems to me, once you get past the known initial shavings and bits, the standard screen is going to do its job. I am going to assume the engineers that designed it engineered the screen to do the job needed.
If you change to a finer screen and it gets plugged, it would cause more problems than what may happen if you used the factory screen and it let the smaller debris past but kept out the larger chunks. They have designed these things for almost 50 years and they are being used the world over with much less care and maintenance.
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I do agree w/ you Techguy. My thought is the factory set-up is a compromise for the neglect that some undergo. A finer screen will mean increased vigilance, and maybe more peace of mind for Ispud. Just a thought.
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As a middle ground, you could add a finer screen to inside of the factory screen for the next oil change to ensure you can filter out more of the nasties - and then change over to the factory screen for the balance of its life.
If continue to get largish metal chunks in your oil after break-in +one oil change ...you have problems bigger than the gauge of the mesh in your oil filter.
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As a middle ground, you could add a finer screen to inside of the factory screen for the next oil change to ensure you can filter out more of the nasties - and then change over to the factory screen for the balance of its life.
If continue to get largish metal chunks in your oil after break-in +one oil change ...you have problems bigger than the gauge of the mesh in your oil filter.
I`ve never seen anything in the OEM screen of Agility in 15.000 kms and People in 9.000 kms...
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I bought mine used but have never seen anything in mine and i have checked it everytime except this last change 9at 1130 pm the night before a 300+ mile ride).
I now have 30,000 km on my P250.
as to the OP... I have not really felt the need to go to a synthetic oil. The P250 has an oil change indicator and when I gets red, I buy a quart at Wal-Mart and change it. A straight oil change takes more time for set-up, draining, and clean-up than the actual work. I typically use the Delo or Rotella 15W40 as I understand diesel engine oils don't have the "gas-saving" additives in gas oils that don't work well in the high-temp m/c engines. I know the oil is dark when I change it every 2,000 km or so. CVT scooters do not have wet clutches like geared bikes and do not require the m/c specific oils some m/c require as the gas saving additives can ruin a wet clutch. I may be wrong , but this is what I have been doing and i am sure this is better care than many third world riders do for thier scoots.
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not getting "large metal chunks", but getting a very fine grit of some sort - gleams like metal.
scooter is just over 2k miles - probably changed oil about 4 times since new - will taper off frequency in the future.
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