KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 50cc => Super 9 => Topic started by: chaz35 on January 06, 2016, 12:47:40 AM
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I got this part months ago and initially couldn't figure out how to install it. If you do a thorough web search, you will find many machine down the lip that makes if different from the Kymco oem part, and the reason it doesn't install without modification. There are a few posts out there of people like me that don't have access to a machine shop, didn't want to spend any extra $'s to intall a part that was advertised to be bolt on, but doesn't work without modification.
I had it for sale, but not any more, will probably buy another one now. Recently, my CVT has been giving me fits. I get it set-up the way I want it, it works right for awhile and then starts to go out of set-up. A big part of the problem is the Kymco oem torque driver has 2 angles in the grooves that control how fast the torque driver opens/ closes. It's a little like having overdrive, and shifts the CVT into overdrive before you want it, killing revs and acceleration. The Malossi torque driver has straight cut grooves which eliminates the dog leg overdrive problem, and has 2 different angles you can try. As I understand it, the steeper angle moves the pulley in and out faster, the less steep angle moves it slower or stays in position longer for more revs at lower speeds.
Since no one wanted it, and if I could get it installed it would probably help the CVT perform better, I kept brain storming different ways to install it. I think the lip was left extra to strengthen the pulley, so I didn't want to remove it. The collar seal is pretty beefy, so I started thinking about just trimming off the top of the collar seal and letting the bottom rest on the edge of the lip. The o-ring seal at the bottom of the collar seal is larger than the top o-ring and appeared to make a good seal. I read that machining down the lip makes it difficult to seal the grease in, so I was concerned about leaking grease.
I was also concerned about the bottom of the collar seal becoming fatigued and failing over time, so I thought it should be supported on the bottom like the Kymco oem. The ID is approx 48mm, and there aren't many shims/ washers that size. I finally realized the torque spring wire was about the right thichness and maybe one coil would work to support the bottom of the collar seal. I cut a coil out of the extra white spring I got with my Malossi variator kit and it appeared to be about perfect, right thickness, a little too large ID, but very close.
I cut down the top edge of the collar seal with a little 5" table disk sander I have. Didn't take long, only had to cut it down approx 5/16" or so. I left a little so the o-ring at bottom would be compressed a little to make a good seal, and the spring coil keeps it from being compressed too much, just right.
I checked all the pieces, cleaned everything, greased it and assembled it. Only issue, with the top o-ring installed, the collar seal was very tight to get installed. I think the o-ring groove on the Malossi torque driver is a little small and lets the o-ring stick out a little too much? Anyway, I eventually got it together without bending anything and looks great, I was very pleased. It's going to be a bear to disassemble later.
For the test, I used everything Kymco oem, except for the Malossi torque driver, i.e. Kymco variator, rollers, fly springs, torque spring, no Malossi torsion controller. I took it out for a ride, and was very impressed. I miss the Malossi variator, maybe, and needs lighter rollers, but scooter really liked this set-up. Starting out, would rev to 8000 revs to get going, then settle down to 7000 revs and just stay there until revs started climbing again once CVT was in highest gear. Scooter was fairly fast, but will be faster when I get CVT to rev to approx 7500 and stay there. It was so cool not to get bogged down at approx 40mph, like it does as the Kymco torque driver moved through the dog leg.
Next I start over tuning the CVT: install lighter Dr Pulley sliders, reinstall the Malossi variator, install Green Malossi torque spring (least stift torque spring), probably leave out Malossi torsion controller because the spring is already compressed by the lip at the bottom of the torque driver. I will monitor for any problems, but don't think there will be any. Score one for Malossi, I think this torque driver will be great. Cheers
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did you get any pics? and nice I been thinking bout this as my next purchase after Malossi BBK is installed.
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Yeah man! Get us visuals! I've found one I am trying to talk myself into buying, I would like to see what you did. Even just a pic of it assembled without the clutch on it would help.
Congrats on getting it to work!
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Sorry I didn't take any pics, already installed. I will be sure to take some pics, when I disassemble it to try the other set of grooves. Very difficult to see difference in angle between 2 sets, but there is a difference. There is a little marker above 1 set of grooves, but I don't know which one it's marking. Anyway, that's the one I tried initially the set that is marked.
I know long discussion a pain to read, but it's all there. Plus Tries, you know what it looks like, you showed me pics of the Malossi torque driver and collar sleave mounted with the end of the collar sleeve sticking up above the torque driver. You know it can't protrude above the torque driver, because that's the end where the clutch mounts to and would inhibit movement of the pulley, i.e. it wouldn't open all the way.
You just take that end of the collar sleeve and grind it down so it's flush with the top of the torque driver. Be sure to allow for the bottom o-ring. Also, don't install the top o-ring until you are ready for final assembly, it's very tight and you only want to put it together 1 time.
Cheers
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Malossi is not the only one, I know NCY makes one too and it's less $'s. The NCY has 2 sets of grooves, like Malossi, but they are different. I may buy one to try, I saw it on ebay. Narraku makes one too, I saw it on Racingplanetusa. Malossi is probably best quality, but more expensive. You can pay over $150 for one of these, if you don't look around some.
Here's a link of install on scooterinvasion: http://www.scooterinvasion.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2956&sid=caf6251dabb146f3731c52711eddd462 (http://www.scooterinvasion.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2956&sid=caf6251dabb146f3731c52711eddd462)
Real simple, on my install I didn't cut down the lip, I cut down the top of the collar seal, that's it, see?
Do you need pic of collar seal? It's the piece that slides over the torque driver and holds the pins in place, holds the grease in. It's in the bottom pic of the scooterinvasion link.
Cheers
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here's another link to pic of torque driver with collar seal http://s3.photobucket.com/user/scootertrog/media/sealcollaronMalossiTorqueDrivePulle.jpg.html (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/scootertrog/media/sealcollaronMalossiTorqueDrivePulle.jpg.html)
can you see that the top of the collar seal is above the top of the torque driver?, that's what I cut down to be flush, simple as pie? Cheers
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So the metal tI've that slips over it right? And what is that like an 1/8" or whatever to get it flush with driver?
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Yes, the metal tube that slips over the torque driver, that's what will be too long. It's something over 1/8", less than 1/4" too long. I took my time sanding it down to keep it square, and not take too much off. Remember: measure 2 times, cut 1 time. You can use the o-rings from your Kymco torque driver or get new ones. The Malossi kits comes with o-rings, but the larger one for the bottom in my kit was too loose, I didn't use it. I used new Kymco o-rings, top and bottom.
After you cut the collar seal shorter, you need another collar seal, if you want to put it back the way it was. I plan to get another Kymco oem collar seal for spare, just in case. Plus, before you buy Malossi torque driver, you might want to wait for my updates. I don't anticipate problems, but if it does blow-up, leaks grease, etc I will post an update.
My latest thinking, I will probably order NCY torque driver to try, a lot less $'s, plus a little different to try. These Malossi are pricey, don't really know if worth it, Malossi has great franchise that you pay extra for, not sure they deserve it. Cheers
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I'll definitely wait for update most of what I got on my Like so far is Malossi it just seems they have much better quality than other. but I would run a NCY or Naruku or Poloni if they make one and it improves performance. If you look here http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=15099.0 (http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=15099.0) you can see what I got in the mail today.
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That's cool, I got one of those kits for my People 50 2T, awesome kit, but I managed to destroy it. Have another Malossi BBK now, still waiting on new crankshaft to start over, got in case splitting tool today, getting expensive. I am way past what I originally wanted to do, but having fun. I got it running 2 times, the way it sounded and ran for a little while keeps me going.
If you follow my BBK thread on People 50 forum, you will be afraid to do my Malossi torque driver mod lol's.
I noticed you have Malossi 19mm carb. Did you do a write-up on it? I am thinking of getting that too, have been doing some research on it. I will probably get a new throttle cable, don't like what you have to do to the oem throttle cable. Cheers
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I have seen your BBK thread.......yeah........we can ride together but you ain't touching my scoot.....jkjk lol yeah I will either take my time doing this or take it to the scooter shop I help out at occasionally and let them do it. I do have the 19mm carb and I did mess up the throttle cable completely trying to get it on with my last order from treatland I got two domino cable splitters and this weekend will completely destroy the oem one to get it apart then try to install the Malossi throttle cable that came with the kit. it dosen't fully open right now and it also hangs big time when I let off the throttle dosen't usually return to idle till I'm stopped. I will do a write up once I got it running right probably make sure its tuned before BBK goes on then document changes that were made with BBK installed.
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You should be in good shape with the shop support. I am all alone out here, but have worked on small engines all my life, had some success, and destroyed a lot of stuff too.
I don't know, but I think I can order a Kymco throttle cable and it will come without the carb top cap. I think if you need a new Kymco oem throttle cable, you have to order a throttle top cap to go with it. That's what all the Kymco parts detail show that I have looked it. Anyway, that's what I am going to try.
Good info about your 19mm carb. When I 1st got my scooter, my plan was to just ride it, and do very little. If I wanted to go faster, I would get a 150cc scooter. However, these 49cc 2T scoots are fun to tweak, so I keep doing mods and spending $'s
My son-n-law has nice Honda PCX 150 and I constantly think about getting one too. However, I still like my 49cc Kymco scoots better.
Cheers
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The Malossi kit comes with a throttle cable designed to open carb all the way as the OEM cable dosent do this in my attempt to get OEM splitter apart I jacked up carb cable and its running but not great and jacked up oil pump cable to point it was full out which is comming out of pipe so had to bend the bracket to get it back in hashmarks. I planned on a few things but never BBK till I saw scooterpartsco.com prices for malossi stuff pretty much cheaper than anywhere else by a ton and also three hours away so things I have ordered are here in three days or less most times unless its in their warehouse.
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I wondered if you got the Malosssi 1611028 carb kit, I guess so. That's the one I was thinking about, but would like to get it figured out before I buy it. I buy some stuff from scooterparts co too, that's where I got the Malossi torque driver.
I notice the ad for the carb says "keep your oil injection system" whatever that means, but doesn't give you a split cable to do it, and you're saying the oem cable doesn't work properly. I thought the extra long cable was for locating the choke control on the handle bar? Another bolt on Malossi kit that doesn't quite measure up? I know many run these larger carbs with premix oil, disabling the oil injector and I can see why. I really like the oil injector and would like to retain it.
The solution of the carb not opening all the way may be different hand control. I used to race karts and one engine had Dellorto VHSB34, that carb had a really long pull to get the carb to WOT. You can also put a bell crank between the hand control and the carb to change the movement of the cable to increase movement or decrease it. I don't know, but maybe need to learn how to make custom cables?
We need to start a new thread and get this figured out. Cheers
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we can start another thread maybe ge more input but yes thats the kit I got and no choke is not to go to handlebars it is the longer cable but designed to mount to lower frame area it has exact spots in installation instructions for different makes and models. And yes no cable splitter but I suppose if experienced enough would be able to disassemble OEM spliter. The short cable is from carb to splitter and allows carb to open fully. As for the oil pump with no BBK it is fine but I find alot of threads on different forums deleting it due to not wanting to be worried about reliability and feel I will probably halfway do that by disconnecting cable but not removing so will pump a small amount but probably premix 40/1. As for actual carb cable it should work out maybe once I get this splitter apart I can make a write up as my post asking about it got no replies and will help others I honestly think when it comes to it Malossi they are the best quality and when installed properly most of their parts arwe more durable and better performing than others. With that being said I do take detours like my Tecnigas NextR chrome and my Dr Pulley sliders lol let me get this cable on this weekend and well see whats up.
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Yeah, chaz35, I get what you've done. I just didn't understand exactly what you needed the spring coil for.
I found malossi torque drivers for piaggio, which is what some of our other parts fit, on scootertuning.ca for less than 100cad on clearance. That comes down even less with the conversion, but back up with 20 cad shipping. Still cheaper. I'm thinking about checking out the ncy torque driver. I'll let you know if I choose to. I'm getting a clutch bell first.
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Hello tries, thanks for reply. The spring is a spacer to support the bottom of the collar seal and keep the bottom o-ring from being crushed too much. Maybe not needed, I don't know. I even put in a strip of milk carton plastic on the inside of the spring to take up the slack, cut the plastic with a paper cutting board.
I am going to run my torque driver for awhile before I get another one. I saw the one in Canada too, saves a few. Scooterpartsco has good prices, cheap shipping. I was maybe going to get another there if I get the 19mm carb, but going slow on the 19mm carb for now, too many unknowns.
The NCY torque driver looks cool, definiterly different grooves, maybe better than Malossi, I don't know, and less $'s for sure. You ever bought anything from jiangwayne.com?, I saw NCY torque driver there too, probably lowest price I saw.
Going to make some adjustments on CVT and take ride today. Weather is nice for a couple of days, have to take advantage. Cheers
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Nice weather here today, so I changed out the Kymco oem rollers and installed 7.5g sliders to test. Everything else is oem except for the Malossi torque driver. I looked for any problems with torque driver, didn't see anything odd, looks good so far. I went for a long ride, burned approx 1 gal of gas, that's approx 60 miles of fun.
The sliders didn't make much difference, ran better but probably need to go to 7g sliders for next test. However, this scooter is really fun to ride, maybe runs better than ever. It's amazing how the engine responds when the gearing is better, carb is working right.
Since I have been thinking about a larger carb, which means more HP and more revs, I am not babying this scooter much anymore. I used to try and keep revs around 8000revs max, and the Malossi variator really helps in that regard. With the Kymco oem variator I have a lower top gear, so engine is turning more revs, top speed it about the same though. I turned close to 10000revs several times on my ride today, depending on the slope and which way the wind was blowing.
Tomorrow is supposed to be nice again. If I get the chance, will make another change and test some more. So far, my Malossi torque driver mod is looking good. Cheers
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NIce sounds like things are going well.
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Honestly, I've not bought anything for my super 9 that was actual parts, besides a set of sliders, from eBay. I know many that have bought from Scooter assassins on eBay, I thought that is where the ncy torque driver was, and they were satisfied.
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This 2nd attempt, don't know what I am doing, but type out long narrative, and delete it, what a pain?
So, next I installed the Malossi variator and went for long ride. I really like the Malossi variator, it made a huge difference. I thought maybe the oem variator would be good, but the Malossi works so much better, gives more revs at slower speeds, and higher top speed. Revs jumped to 9000 so a little too high, but scooter ran great.
Next I installed MaLossi green torque spring to drop the revs, and it dropped them down to 8000. Was pretty close to perfect. Could cruise at 8000 where I like with speedo on 50mph (approx 45mph actual). I have 8g sliders on the other scooter and plan to try them soon, just to see the effect. 8000revs probably still past peak torque/ HP so 8g stliders may be better.
Malossi torque driver a big plus IMO. The dog leg issue has completely gone away. It climbs hills great, goes against the wind great, it is great going up a hill into the wind. With the straight groove torque driver revs go to 8000 and just stay there until the CVT is in it's highest gear, then revs start to climb as you continue to gain speed. Depending on which way the wind is blowing/ elevation change revs can get close to 10000.
Don't know if it's really that helpful with BBK extra torque/ HP, but with 49cc engine it really increases performance. This thing is fast IMO. I can cruise on 50 to 55mph country roads (I pull to side and let faster cagers pass from time to time, but not a problem), in city traffic 40 to 45mph I am fast, a cager passing me is speeding. At stop lights and the light goes green it revs to 8000 and just stays there, sweet.
My final set-up: stock 49cc LC with Tecnigas Next-R pipe, pod air filter, oem Keihin 17mm carb 40 slow/ 108 main jets, CVT with Malossi variator, 7.5g Dr Pulley sliders, Malossi green torque spring, removed the Malossi yellow plastic torque controller (was concerned about coil binding with torque spring compressing too much), oem fly springs, and most important Malossi torque driver.
I ordered another one. I plan to set-up the other Super 9 LC the same, except will try the other set of straight grooves on the torque driver, see what difference it makes. The way this thing is running I don't feel the need for BBK, but we will see when I ever get the People 50 2T BBK running. Cheers
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Thats sweet man so the mod on the Torque driver worked good? Nice man. But isn't the Tosion Conrollers job to prevent the very thing you were worried about it causing? I'ts designed to reduce friction and allow the spring to spin smoother correct?
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The yellow plastic torsion contoller only allows the torque spring to twist back and forth a fraction of a turn as the driven pulley moves in and out. I can't remember if you disassembled your CVT driven side down to the torque driver, but that is where the grooves are that control the pulley movement. The oem grooves are not straight. The yellow plastic torsion controller has no effect on the angle of the grooves or whether they are straight like the Malossi or change angle like the oem. I know confusing, so keep asking if I am not explaining it. Cheers
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Yeah I think I got it now.
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Hey chaz, is this what your rear pulley looks like? Near the bottom of the page, bottom picture.
This whole thread has a bit of cvt tips in it. The belt, I need the belt lol. And the pulley. I think he says it's naraku...
http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=5909.0
Actually, it's on page 11
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Hello Tries, I need to read that thread, didn't see anything on page 11, maybe my computer has different screen size, shows more or less pages than yours. I will read, and report back later, have a few chores to do 1st.
I have another one (Malossi 618317 torque driver), will be installing soon, will use other set of slots to test for difference the other set makes. Cheers
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I read the linked thread, all 29 pages... Lots of good info and interesting, definitely learned a few things, but CVT not like my set-up. I have Malossi variator in front and Kymco OEM clutch and pulley on the back with Malossi torque driver. You can't see the variator or the torque driver, so my CVT looks like Kymco OEM front to back.
I use the OEM belt after doing a lot of reading. Notice he was blowing a few belts, generally OEM belts don't give you trouble. Maybe with his CVT OEM belt would blow too, I don't know. I watched his vids, very good vids IMO, redneck camera was great!!!
That's about the way my speedo and tach look, I think my S9 runs about like his. If we were neighbors would be fun to compare rides for sure. Best I can tell we have similar set-up (49cc, OEM carb, Tecnigas pipe, aftermarket airpod), except for CVT.
I am not in favor of aftermarket clutches for street riding. Maybe need if want to pull wheelies?, but not what I am trying to do. Let CVT do all the work, the clutch is so you can idle at the red light. The CVT gear ratio when you start out is very low, almost too low IMO, so definitely don't need to be slipping the clutch a lot to get going. My original S9 had stiffer torque and fly springs, and rev'd way too much starting out.
I installed Kymco OEM fly springs and like much better. Probably faster on take-off cause I don't have to wait for engine to rev up before scooter starts to move forward. Was really a pain starting out on inclines too. I am not saying my way is better, just I like it better for how I ride. Cheers
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Chaz speaking of gears I never have heard back from 245luigi but if you look at his and Paras Like50 build both of them used upgear kits Luigi used Malossi P/N6711055 and Para used Stage6 lead and scooter-attack.com has them both so I know Super9's have taller gears already but Like and maybe People not so much so the upgear kits fit. Para said he pulled 62+ GPS I think.
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I was referring to the two pictures he had of the rear pulleys, one stock with a weld deep down at the center, the other below it without the bead weld. I have the one with the weld, Amish has the other type of stock one that didn't have the weld. It keeps the belt from going all the way into the rear pulley, imo. Like a restriction.
I'm interested in the 3mm longer and 1mm wider belt because my belt seems just barely too short and doesn't sit all the way at the top of the rear pulley. And now that I have a larger faced variator, the extra length and width will utilize more of the variator at top speed.
I'm most likely going to need the longer boss drive than the Malossi one that's 37mm, or 37.5, I don't remember atm. Otherwise the wider belt will not fit all the way down into the variator.
I'm going to start with trying the torque driver as the only change. Then I'll work my way into other set ups and see what happens.
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For top speed, need belt high on front variator, low on rear driven pulley. The OEM driven pulley has the weld, but the Malossi torque driver has it machined off. I don't think it makes a diff, the rear driven pulley doesn't appear to open enough for the belt to get that low. I haven't tested it, but you may be onto something. If you get wider belt maybe won't go as low on rear driven pulley?, that could hurt top speed.
The longer boss drive?, is that part of the front variator? If so, don't think you need longer for top speed, the belt is low on take off? and closes to make larger diameter front variator for top speed.
I think the best way for top speed is up gears, but don't know if available. I have Malossi 6711055 and 6711802 up gear kits. Would be so easy to change out a few gears. Best I can tell, CVT gets expensive, for example: I think there is nice over range variator for the Zuma for around $500 lols.
So far, I know the Malossi up gear kits don't fit People 50 2T. There may be some gears that would fit Kymco to change final drive ratio in the GY6 world. I think our Kymco engines/ CVT is based on QMB139, whatever that is? I saw something about that once, gears maybe available cheap, but would take a lot of research to figure out what works.
I haven't ridden my fastest S9 (with Malossi torque driver) with son-n-law's Honda PCX150 yet, but think I am getting faster. He couldn't ride, so I took out my S9 alone in traffic and felt faster than ever before over at his location. Honda PCX150 is my gold standard to compare to. If you can stay with one of those, you are going fast IMO. Cheers
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I would get the longer boss drive, the bit the variator slides on, to let the wider belt sit low for takeoff, then the width of the belt would compensate for the extra length of the boss drive. The belt length would be to sit higher on the rear for takeoff and higher on the variator at full speed. I'm hoping I'm on to something here.
I've heard back and forth on gears fitting and not. And some sets are a quick swap, others have to be pressed on and are quite a pain unless you have special machine shop tools or are really crafty.
This will be my last performance purchase for my s9 until I get the tgb build back on track. Then I will try my luck at the gears and maybe intake. The intake I'll do myself, I want to keep the stock airbox for wet weather riding. And it's a bit quieter. Maybe I'll get the oem look alike that's 20mm. Still undecided.
I should receive all my parts soon, I'll let you know what happens!
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Yes, the stock airbox is quieter, but I really like the pod air filters. I have done a fair amount of kart racing in the rain mainly 2 cycles and the pod air filters with the outer cover worked OK for me. I don't think a little moisture hurts the engine, just so long as you run it awhile after you are out of the rain, so it can dry out. Actually, if I could find a nice airbox that would fit on scooter I would get it, but haven't seen anything I like yet. I just know I don't care for OEM air filter.
I normally oil the outer filter sleeve some and slip it on. When the outer sleeve looks dirty, I wash in hot soapy water. The main filter, I never wash, if got dirty would probably just replace.
I have pod air filter on the People 50 2T BBK and it's loud. Still have the OEM exhaust, so I am thinking will be pretty loud with Tecnigas pipe, may wear ear plugs. Will install Tecnigas soon.
Good luck on CHT mods, I will be looking for updates. Cheers
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did you see my write up in tech section bout high flow air filter element?
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pace, yes just read it, good thread. I actually have some Uni red filter material, and have used it, but still like the pod filters better. Cheers
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I want to keep mine as stock looking as possible for the moment only thing that is not stock on that is noticeable is the exhaust right now. I'll probably put snorkel restriction and OEM filter element back in during BBK breakin will still suck more air cuz of the two 1" holes in side of box but maybe won't have to upjet so much.
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I think the OEM airbox can be modified to work as well or better than pod air filter.
I mainly like pod air filter because it is so simple. When I used to work on my original S9, I always had trouble getting the rubber part off the carb, usually went flying across the driveway when came off. Plus a bunch of screws to remove to get to the filter material.
I am used to pod filter, been using them for 1/2 my life, so that's what I naturally like, they are not better than OEM otherwise. Cheers
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I run a mad air flowing stock box! Close to amphibious as I can get. Would Probably drown the whole bike before getting more than just some splashes in the filter
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Just thought I'd share, the ncy torque driver also has a little step like the malossi. Not as extreme. And luckily my ball bearing base has the appropriate angle to accommodate it with no modifying necessary! I'm only going to use the base, not with the bearings for now. Maybe later. (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160301/cb7d76d889146f9a2bec76f196b03f78.jpg)
Here's the stock collar, then the bearing base. Note the angle, which was useless with the stock torque driver, causing it to dry out of lube and sling it everywhere. (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160301/40eca37e0ced81bc1263864c3a880fac.jpg)
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Working on installing 2nd Malossi torque driver. I will install this one using the other available grooves to see what difference it makes, if any. Hard to tell, but I think 2nd set of grooves has a little less angle (like the top of the dog leg on the OEM torque driver, has less angle, the portion that comes into play top end when the driven pulley is fully apart). As I understand it, less angle allows the torque driver to change position easier/ faster. Anyway, I will see what it does and report back.
I checked how the belt fit within the driven pulley with the Malossi torque driver and indeed it appears to go a little lower in the pulley, approx another 1/8 inch lower. Very cool, if actually does go lower, should give a little more top end. So Malossi variator on the front helps top end, and appears Malossi torque driver on the driven pulley helps too.
Seems like my experience too, the S9 that has both the Malossi variator and torque driver is fastest scooter I have. I haven't riden with son-n-law on his Honda PCX150 (gold standard) yet, but I am pretty sure it will be a little faster than my other S9 with just the Malossi variator. I thought is was just the straight grooves and only helped acceleration/ reacceleration, but now I think there may be another added benefit, a little more top end.
Cheers
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I knew I wasn't crazy. Some people are still skeptical. I'm hitting new high speeds with lower rpms now that I don't have that hump holding me back
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Cool, you proved it, I was getting results too, but didn't know why, your a genius. Cheers
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Now now, let's not get carried away lol. I can't give the td all the credit. There's a new belt in the mix. Can't remember if that's before or after I posted that though...
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Tries, did you say the stock rear pulley on another kymco model doesn't have the hump/weld? What rear pulley are you using?
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I hear it's the Agility 50 that doesn't have it
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My 2nd install started giving me trouble, wasn't running consistent, so I disassembled and inspected today. This one I used the Malossi bottom o-ring instead of the OEM Kymco o-ring and I think it allowed the grease to leak out. The problem was it was running dry, so wouldn't turn enough rev's until it got warm/ hot then acted different/ more normal.
I cleaned it up, re-greased it, put it all back together with the OEM Kymco bottom o-ring. Note: better to use the Malossi o-ring on the top, otherwise very difficult to assemble with the thicker OEM Kymco top o-ring. So, use larger Kymco o-ring on the bottom of the torque driver, and use the smaller Malossi on top. The Kymco o-rings are thicker than the Malossi, but the bottom has larger OD, the top smaller OD.
I used the set of slots that were marked to try, wasn't sure how I had it originally, but thought I used the non-marked set. Went for test run and wasn't turning enough rev's to work properly, so I took it apart and put the torque driver back on the non-marked set of slots. Went for test run and still wasn't working right, wasn't turning enough rev's, but a little better. Evidently, the non-marked slots are a little steeper angle than the marked slots, so takes a little longer for the pulley to move out? Wasn't working right, so I disassembled again.
I figured I could either change to stiffer torque spring or change to lighter sliders, I changed to lighter sliders, because I think will be faster with weaker torque spring and lighter sliders. I had 7.5g Dr Pulley sliders in it, so I changed to 7g, put it all back together and went for long test run.
Ran great, best it's ever run. Even with worn belt 16.5mm wide, still had great top end. I measured new belt I already have and it's approx 17.6 as I recall, so when I replace it should have just a little more top end with new belt. Acceleration is awesome, re-acceleration is awesome. It runs like a monster. Cheers
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Nice I just ordered a new clutch for mine and will be betting a new belt soon 7500 miles on it since oct and some almost 200 miles of hard mountain riding. I am looking at getting another TD too but not sure if I want Malossi or NCY.