KymcoForum.com
Scooters - Big Bore => Xciting 500 => Topic started by: guile on December 11, 2015, 07:46:11 PM
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Guys, the engine leaks oil; especially after riding. When I park it, it leaks quiet a lot.
I may have put too much oil in it. Could that be it?
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Pictures possible of where it is leaking from?
When scoot up on center stand what does dipstick oil level show?
Stig
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These scoot's are prone to leak out of the stator wiring harness rubber seal where it exits the top of the engine. Mine weeps quite a bit, and I must clean out regularly.
Also, one time I did not tighten the oil filler properly - a right mess!
Another time the rubber seal on the oil filter was out of alignment - I will leave the result to your imagination.
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It's probably the headgasket :-\
Very, very expensive repair..
I love my X but the list of repairs is getting too long. Only 39000 km on the clock and it's almost ready for the scrapyard?
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It's either what xsell777 said, or it's the valve cover gasket. Both easy and cheap to fix. Silicone where the wires come out on top of engine, and or replace valve cover gasket. No biggy. :-*
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My mechanic says it's 5 hours work...
Is that correct?
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For head gasket maybe? But 5 hours?? To silicone where stator wires come out of top of engine. 1/2 hours max. If they need to remove side cover on engine to put in new gasket, 2/3 max, and thats a stretch. Valve cover gasket an hour. Remove some plastic, and a few screws and your done. Find a new shop. Find an independent shop. :-*
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I'm going to change all the gaskets of the top-part of the engine.
My question is if it's necessary to remove the engine for this or is removing the tupperware enough?
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To take the gasket cover off, you will need to undo the rear shocks and I jacked the back up so that the engine moves a bit so the cover can be taken off, as the frame gets in the way.
I think you can just take off the the Tupperware, that will be enough.
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At what point exactly did you jack it up?
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I got the whole cylinder of, took me the whole day, but learned a lot. I found out that base gasket leaks. Luckily it was easy to find.
I bought a complete gasket set from 'Athena', example: http://www.biketeile-service.de/en/engine/gasketandsealkits/complete/gasketsetcompletep400210850227.html (http://www.biketeile-service.de/en/engine/gasketandsealkits/complete/gasketsetcompletep400210850227.html)
All the gaskets fit perfectly, however, the original base gasket is made of different material then the new base gasket. The original one is made of thin metal with on both sides soft material. The new base gasket is made of soft material, no metal. My question is if it's safe to use the new soft base gasket???
It would be terrible to find out later that it doesn't...
I have to be sure.
Please your thoughts.
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That should be a good one in spite of no metal. IMO.
Karl
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Thanks Karl.
Any one else who can back this up?
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It took me and a friend almost 15 hours to finish this job, but the base gasket (and all the other gaskets that I came across) are changed.
The engine works fine now but the radiatorventilator won't stop. Even if the engine is completely cold, the ventilator starts to turn first thing when you turn the ignition. ???
Anyone any ideas?
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Two-wire harness to Water Temp Sensor (WTS) got pinched somewhere on reassembly.
Karl
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Thanks Karl, but wires are not pinched.
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Even when I disconnect the two-wire harness to Water Temp Sensor the fan keeps on turning...
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This thermal sensor is not a switch but changes resistance from cold to hot. 120 ohms cold 16 hot. You say fan runs even when you unplug the sensor; that means the two wires are at low ohms somewhere besides the sensor.
Karl
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So what could this mean? Could you direct me where to look?
Is was really hoping not to have to solve another problem :(
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I think it works like this: that temp sensor tells the ECU, the ECU tells the temp gage and the fan what to do. So if this is different than before the gasket project there is something different about the wiring harness or fan or computer or temp sensor than before. Beyond that, a wiring diagram, multimeter and a troubleshooting plan are what is needed to find and fix. Most dealers are not equipped materially or mentally to handle this so you are IT!
Karl
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Karl, thanks again for thinking with me.
I did several checks:
- cooling fan motor switch wiring (radiator)
- opened thermostat housing and cleaned thermostat
- removed water temparature sensor and cleaned
No luck..
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What is the dash panel indication of temperature?
Karl
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It's normal, half way up
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OK, that is a good indication when it is warmed. What's it look like when you first start it up?
Karl
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Guys, the engine leaks oil; especially after riding. When I park it, it leaks quiet a lot.
I may have put too much oil in it. Could that be it?
1. Year
2. mileage
3. a photo of the leak
4. Dig pic of the work order.
My gv250 has 19.5 miles on it and very little oil from the head / engine gaskets. I support changing gaskets but I really would want to know IF that is the problem and WHY it happened.
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By looking at the wiring diagram carbureted and efi models have a thermoswitch that operates the fan independently of the the temp sender (guage) and temp sensor (efi models for the ECU). Look for the thermal switch that is located in the radiator and the wires going to it. If you unplug the thermal switch the fan should not operate. If the fan motor runs with the switch unplugged then check the wiring to the thermoswitch. If the fan motor does not run with the thermoswitch unplugged, then the switch is stuck in the on position and needs to be replaced.
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Pjones is exactly right! Two switches, one for the fan and one for the gauge. I stand instructed!
Karl
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I followed pjones' instructions and discovered that the the fan motor does not run with the thermoswitch unplugged. I even removed and cleaned it, but no change.
Replacement is in order then?
This okay?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321217661395?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.com/itm/321217661395?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
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I'd say go for it! Looks like the right part and it's about 20 bucks including shipping from Isreal. I have to see what else they have! That switch just had to pick the time to crap out when you had so much else going on! Murphy's Law!
Karl
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Haha great Karl
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Good catch Guile.
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Eureka!
It works!
Thanks Karl and pjones1210!
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Haleulia, hale-hooray! I'll bet that witch is over 20 bucks at a dealer!
Karl
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Great news, happy riding.
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It's probably the headgasket :-\
Very, very expensive repair..
I love my X but the list of repairs is getting too long. Only 39000 km on the clock and it's almost ready for the scrapyard?
No. I have 32,000 kilo (19,500 miles) on my 2005 GV250 and I run it full throttle because it is only 250cc. The head gasket on a one cylinder is not that big a job.
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My experience is different. Check this recent thread out: http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=21154.msg160026#msg160026 (http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=21154.msg160026#msg160026)
The reason it's a lot of work to change the base gasket is because you have to strip the scoot down for the most part, and most parts attached to the engine block. As the cylinderhead can't be removed the way it is, you have to take the rear suspension off and rock the scoot sideways (hanging like a windsurfer) to get the necessary space to take out all the long bolts. After removing the complete cylinder all flat parts have to cleaned so that the new gaskets will fit correctly. Reinstalling the cylinderhead needs to be done very precisely: chain distrubution timing and various bolt tension. After 40.000 kmand 10 years there are parts that needed replacing and of course some broken bolts (by rust).
I have never done this before so that's also a reason it's time consuming.
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My experience is different. Check this recent thread out: http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=21154.msg160026#msg160026 (http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=21154.msg160026#msg160026)
The reason it's a lot of work to change the base gasket is because you have to strip the scoot down for the most part, ....
Yeah, the base gasket is the worst. Basically you have to tear apart the entire scooter. My GV's motor is much easier to access I see it when I adjust the valves. Best think is to sell it for parts and get a different brand. I think the Piaggio BV350 is a good choice or burgman 400 etc.
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Yeah, the base gasket is the worst. Basically you have to tear apart the entire scooter. My GV's motor is much easier to access I see it when I adjust the valv es. Best think is to sell it for parts and get a different brand. I think the Piaggio BV350 is a good choice or burgman 400 etc.
Burgman 400 is not an easy valve adjustment. Shims, etc.
Fortunately has a long service schedule.
Duct tape two or three LIKE200I's together....you'll thank me when valve adjustment time comes......TRUST me on this!
Stig
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Hi. I have a kymco xciting 500. The problem is the oil leaks into the water cooler. What seems to be the problem? Thanks
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Probably faulty head gasket