KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 125 to 300 => People GT 300i => Topic started by: zevsdad on November 17, 2015, 03:49:18 PM
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sorry for the multi post on this topic- I figured I would just created a separate thread here now that I am 98% sure that my paper crunching noise is the result of worn roller weights and that I need to install Dr. Pulleys.
Can anyone please provide detailed instructions on installing the sliders? Preferably with pics or video? I know it's asking a lot, but would really be helpful.
What tools are needed?
Where to purchase?
what weight is best(14g, 15g, 16g...?)
should belt be replaced also?
Where to purchase plastic( I cracked the grey plastic cover that has the kymco logo)?
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Do a search. Multiple posts on that topic. The only difference is how you handle removing the nut and bolt front and rear of variator.
Karl
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I went with 15g for cruising, plastic kymco cover... I just left mine off, but I have a brand new cover from my kymco with less then 500 miles, if you want it, let me know.
Lots of 10mm bolts, then slowly pry it off or light tap on the cover to get it off. There is a gasket so don't rip it if you don't have to. I use impact wrench to remove the 17mm nut, without it, you need to fab something to hold the face cover or it will rotate when you try to loosen it. People suggest to replace that 17mm nut-one time use.
Putting it back is a little tricky, need to make sure the belt is not interfering with the pulley when tightening the 17mm nut, so I took a long pole skinny pole I had and keep poking it towards the front to wiggle some room to tight the 17mm nut slowly until flesh with the spacer, then I tight it down. Whole job probably took me 15min top.... but then again I installed my own engine, so might be different from you.
slider was purchased from Amazon, cheapest place I can find, $24 I think, but I got the last 15g, they have one last set of 14g at the same price I think.
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Thanks Yao-that is very helpful stuff.
Can you send a pic of the plastic cover-want to make sure its the same thing I need-the grey one with the Kymco logo.
for the sliders-what is the difference between 14g and 15g?
Thanks!
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Thanks Yao-that is very helpful stuff.
Can you send a pic of the plastic cover-want to make sure its the same thing I need-the grey one with the Kymco logo.
for the sliders-what is the difference between 14g and 15g?
Thanks!
If you do some research here Yellow Jacket did some 1/8 mile runs to compare. I believe the 14's were about 1 second faster in the 1/8mile than the stock 15's. I have 14's installed and noticed much better acceleration over stock.
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Hello, if new to replacing CVT parts (rollers, sliders, clutch, belt, etc.) on your scooter - search out a bunch of youtube CVT, scooter belt, scooter rollers, etc. videos for Kymco or other scooters.
Alternately - you can purchase a service on-line or hard copy manual from cyclepedia.com, probably.
It will get you more familiar with the procedure.
Here are a couple to look at:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sC-IZxvUGN0 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sC-IZxvUGN0)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ss7NMyzNFsw (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ss7NMyzNFsw)
Lots of scooter CVT vieos on youtube.
Stig
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so 14g or 15g? which should I get?
and Yao-what about that plastic-still want to sell it?
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The 14's get my vote. Better acceleration, top speed 85+, and 68mpg. What more could you want?
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Thank Mike-14g it is.
Wonder why they put 15.3g stock? Is 15 better for top end?
So I dont own an impact wrench or one of those y shaped tools for holding down the variator to keep it from spinning when removcing the 17mm nut...quess I'll just have to improvise. :) One thing I'm nervous about is the belt-I keep hearing that I have to be acreful not to pinch it or somethhing when tighening the nut back on. I dont really understand this-maybe I will when I get in there...
Final question-what about brake pads-are they easy to replace. Where should I get them?
Thanks
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here is a pic of the cover. I went with 15g for lower rpm, I will look for power somewhere else :)
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yes thats it! how much do you want for it shipped-I live in Orlando, FL
on the 14g vs. 15g can you explain that a little-I want to make sure that the 14g I just ordered are better than the 15g for me.
Thanks
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Brake pads are EBC, SFA498HH and SFA388HH front and rear :)
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You want to squeeze your secondary clutch pullys while you are forcing the belt down inside them. This loosens up the belt enough so the front variator should spin freely. When you tighten it back up, you want the belt loose enough so you are tightening the crankshaft nut onto the outer variator/boss and not the belt. I've installed them in a GT300i and this is the tool I made. I've used it on everything from Yamahas to SYMs:(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r691/wallboard2000/tool_zps2431aeb6.jpg)
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That looks awesome-can you send me the specs so I can build one of those!
and describe how to use the tool-I image it is used to keep the variator from spinning when lossening the nut?
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I added the aluminum on this after 30 or so uses on different scooters. You do not need it. Use fender washers on both sides of your 1/4 -20 screws. I've included a picture of the outer variator. You want the screws to extend out about 1/4", long enough to fit into the indents on the variator fan. Start with a piece of 3/4" plywood 5" wide. The tool pictured is 13" long. It was made for a 50cc yamaha. I'd go 15" or so on the length. If it ends up too long, you can cut some off. 1) 1 5/8" down from the top use a square and draw a horizontal line. 2) in the center of the board, use a square and draw a vertical line intersecting your horizontal line. 3) draw a point on each side of your vertical line 1 9/16" (total distance between points 3.125") 4) at your center point drill a 1.125" hole (drill half way through on one side, flip over and finish up from the other side) 5) at your two outer points drill a 13/64" hole (one at each point, total of 2) 6)add 1/4 - 20 screws with fender washers on each side and a nut on the back side. Screws need to extend about 1/4" past the nuts. I use a 3/8" ratchet with a 16" long piece of pipe as a breaker bar. Squeeze the clutch pullys and force your belt down to loosen up the belt. Fit the screws into the notches on your variator. Turn the variator nut with the socket until the tool rests on something solid, remove your variator nut.
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r691/wallboard2000/100_0493_zpstd8ri9lx.jpg)
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I have used and experimented with the Dr Pulleys for some time now. I have 3 kymco GTI scoots and I experiment on all 3. The best rollers are the OEM in my opinion. I actually found a 14 gram roller which I find better than the Dr Pulleys
http://www.ebay.com/itm/231110647711?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3D231110647711%26_rdc%3D1 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/231110647711?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3D231110647711%26_rdc%3D1)
I find that the mid range and low end torque is lost with the Dr Pulleys.
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Im building another GTI at the moment and planning on using a contra spring and HIT clutch system. I will let you know how this runs. Should be a ballistic combo with a Zard Exhaust!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KYMCO-DOWNTOWN300-350-XCT300-400-XCITING250-TECHPULLEY800rpmTORQUE-CONTRA-SPRING-/141612614846?hash=item20f8c504be:g:CqAAAOSwqu9VDl14&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/KYMCO-DOWNTOWN300-350-XCT300-400-XCITING250-TECHPULLEY800rpmTORQUE-CONTRA-SPRING-/141612614846?hash=item20f8c504be:g:CqAAAOSwqu9VDl14&vxp=mtr)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KYMCO-XCITING-250-300-DR-PULLEY-HIGH-PERFORMANCE-CVT-REAR-HiT-CLUTCH-HiT231801-/131637569285?hash=item1ea635e705:g:rNUAAOSwo6lWLa95&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/KYMCO-XCITING-250-300-DR-PULLEY-HIGH-PERFORMANCE-CVT-REAR-HiT-CLUTCH-HiT231801-/131637569285?hash=item1ea635e705:g:rNUAAOSwo6lWLa95&vxp=mtr)
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Thank you so much for this very detailed exlanation-I will build this!
One question -what is the semicircular notch on the right hand side of the tool for?
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what is the semicircular notch on the right hand side of the tool for?
I originally made this for my Yamaha C3. That notch locks on top of the center stand.
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Here's my cheap, home made holding tool. Get about 3 feet of 1/4 X 1 inch flat stock from Lowe's. Drill and tap two 1/4-20 holes near the ends. Cut to about 1 foot. Now you have 2 pieces, 1 foot and 2 feet long. Drill 1/4 inch holes for the hinge. On the pivoting arm I put a nut on the bolt to make both bolts the same height. I had to file the two bolts down just a little to get them to go into the holes on the outer part of the variator. That's it. Since it's adjustable I can use it for other applications.
(http://i568.photobucket.com/albums/ss123/jhforce1/DSCN1621_zpszptlwzlj.jpg) (http://s568.photobucket.com/user/jhforce1/media/DSCN1621_zpszptlwzlj.jpg.html)
(http://i568.photobucket.com/albums/ss123/jhforce1/DSCN1618_zps1zqgcpmx.jpg) (http://s568.photobucket.com/user/jhforce1/media/DSCN1618_zps1zqgcpmx.jpg.html)
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Wow=that looks incredibly simple yet effective! I'm guessing you hold the longer end with your other hand-or with your foot maybe?
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Usually I can put the long end against a fixed part of the bike, i.e., the clutch bell, side stand etc. Cheap and does just what it need to.
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I'm reading now that the nut must be tightned to factory specified torque--requiring a torque wrench to measure the exact torgue. Does anyone know the factory specified torque measurement for the 17mm variator nut?
Also, if I do get an impact wrench, will I still need to hold onto the pulley or the variator when removing the nut with an impact wrench?
Thanks
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The torque should be somewhere North of 70lbs on your 300. It is okay to go tighter. There is a lot posted on Variator nuts coming loose on the SYM forum. The most important thing is to be sure your belt is out of the way when you tighten it. An impact wrench will move the nut (on or off) without having to hold the variator. I use a 12V impact wrench from Harbor Freight. It clips to your battery terminals. It was around $25, and works great for variator and clutch nuts. I put a sharpie line going across the shaft and the nut. When I tighten, I go slightly past the line. I prefer to use the holder and the torque wrench, but have worked on a couple of scooter that did not have the indentations on the outer drive face.
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Torque spec according to the service manual is 93.1 NM, which converts to 69 ft.lb. Impact works great to remove the nut, no holder needed. Putting the nut back on with an impact is risky. You DO NOT want to pinch the belt. I use my holder and ratchet the nut on. When it starts to pinch the belt I remove the holder and slowly keep tightening. At some point you will start to turn the motor over. This will loosen the belt. Once again, use the holder and tighten the nut a few turns. When you meet resistance, repeat the above. Just be patient. Once the nut is seated, use the holder and torque the nut.
Here's a link to the full service manual.
http://www.kymcousa.com/owners/onroad/People-GT-300i-Service-Manual.pdf (http://www.kymcousa.com/owners/onroad/People-GT-300i-Service-Manual.pdf)
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Thank you! - this is great info- you guys are awesome.
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Sliders came in - I got a torque wrench and some materials to build the tool. I am almost ready! Wanted to check with you guys before proceeded though--are these the correct sliders?
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yes they are good, 20/12 14 gram ,. look in the bottom of case you will see how to put them on,
when you make your tool have the long piece long enough to hit the floor so it will not slip,
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Well- I am happy and proud to report that I completed the install! I really could not have done it without all of your expert help-so thanks guys!
the paper crunch sound appears to be gone! there is a smoothing out sensation I can feel- and the sound of the engine is deeper now. When I come to a stop it is MUCH smoother. Anyway-thanks again!
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Well done! Good feeling isn't it? I'm a firm believer of wrenching on what you ride. Sure is a good looking variator holder you have there. :)
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Indeed! special thank you to you-Wallboard, for the excellent detailed explanation for building this variator fan holder. Worked like a charm!
One other thing I forgot to mention- the nut on the variator fan was NOT 17mm. It turned out to be 19mm.
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on my GT, I installed 14 gr Dr Pulley sliders.
I noticed better acceleration on the bottom end. That is what I wanted. The performance difference is not mind blowing but, noticeable.
When you put it back together, torque to 69 ft-lb, run it a minute, the recheck torque to make sure you have not pinched your belt.
Never, never use Red Loctite on your variator nut. A small dab of Blue Loctite is ok.
It is not a complicated procedure. Just take your time and think carefully as you go.
Good luck.
boo
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on my GT, I installed 14 gr Dr Pulley sliders.
I noticed better acceleration on the bottom end. That is what I wanted. The performance difference is not mind blowing but, noticeable.
When you put it back together, torque to 69 ft-lb, run it a minute, the recheck torque to make sure you have not pinched your belt.
Never, never use Red Loctite on your variator nut. A small dab of Blue Loctite is ok.
It is not a complicated procedure. Just take your time and think carefully as you go.
Good luck.
boo
If you want an awesome upgrade, try the Dr. Pulley Variator complete with the 14g. They compliment each other.
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Hello, if new to replacing CVT parts (rollers, sliders, clutch, belt, etc.) on your scooter - search out a bunch of youtube CVT, scooter belt, scooter rollers, etc. videos for Kymco or other scooters.
Alternately - you can purchase a service on-line or hard copy manual from cyclepedia.com, probably.
It will get you more familiar with the procedure.
Here are a couple to look at:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sC-IZxvUGN0 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sC-IZxvUGN0)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ss7NMyzNFsw (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ss7NMyzNFsw)
Lots of scooter CVT vieos on youtube.
Stig
I felt compelled to through my two cents in on YouTube for this bike.
I do many of my own repairs, some al e some with a friend helping and I have relied heavily on YouTube in the past...but the quality and lack of video of any quality for a decent variety of tasks seems to be lacking in a pretty serious way. If you can find a basic video it is foreign and you can't read or understand what's being said.
I love my kymco DT 300 so much I just went and bought a People GTI. But I came for Burgmans and I guess we got spoiled by Mcbiergsma and Ledude who undertook every task on the 400 and 650. They would video the task multiple times include tools, sometimes where to buy parts and the video production quality was great. I just keep searching for a couple fanatics like that for my Kymco needs
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I felt compelled to through my two cents in on YouTube for this bike.
I do many of my own repairs, some al e some with a friend helping and I have relied heavily on YouTube in the past...but the quality and lack of video of any quality for a decent variety of tasks seems to be lacking in a pretty serious way. If you can find a basic video it is foreign and you can't read or understand what's being said.
I love my kymco DT 300 so much I just went and bought a People GTI. But I came for Burgmans and I guess we got spoiled by Mcbiergsma and Ledude who undertook every task on the 400 and 650. They would video the task multiple times include tools, sometimes where to buy parts and the video production quality was great. I just keep searching for a couple fanatics like that for my Kymco needs
You are correct - those 2 made a lot of helpful scooter repair videos.....
Well, take some consolation in the vast price difference between KYMCO parts and Suzuki parts!
And I have found OEM Kymco parts to be of very good quality - thye work and do what they are designed for for a very long time.
I have used foreign videos for learning scooter repairs & servicing. One of my fav CVT videos was all in German.
Stig