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Scooters - 125 to 300 => Downtown 300 => Topic started by: An Orange Crush on August 26, 2015, 10:36:22 PM
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Just wondering if anyone knows, when I put the DT300 on the center stand and grab the rear wheel and give it a spin, there is quite a bit of resistance/drag there.
Not sure if its from the brake pads making some contact or just the CVT but it takes quite a bit of force to spin it and when I let go it spins maybe a 1/4 turn then stops.
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I vote CVT.
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clean and lube the brake sliding pins and plates, the drag will be much lower,. and check how the wheel spins with out the pads in there,. did that last week,
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I second Scroll's assessment. There will be drag due to the CVT and I think its a natural thing.
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there will be no dra the clutch is NOT workin
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Brakes. I finally ignored it. Piston does not retract like front.
Karl
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Drag of Final Drive Gears.
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I have to re-tweet here, I went out after posting this and laid on my side, put my hand underneath the wheel and gave it a spin and it`ll spin one revolution give or take 1/8th of a turn so its probably just my paranoia more than anything.
I will be greasing those slide pins for the brakes though, thanks for that dee.
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I gotta add to this thread: Old DT the rear brake always dragged especially after using it and it would be a bit hot. New DT300i does NOT drag at all. What's the difference?
Karl
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I gotta add to this thread: Old DT the rear brake always dragged especially after using it and it would be a bit hot. New DT300i does NOT drag at all. What's the difference?
Karl
fresh grease in the pin holes, I found out the difference when I cleaned the pin holes very well, and re greased it
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You should grease the pins with caliper lube only ???
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I did all that about three times on the old one and it seemed to make no difference. The latest theory I came up with is 1. the "weep hole" in the master cylinder was slightly out of position not allowing the fluid back in the reservoir or 2. the clearance between the lever and the master cylinder plunger was too small. Other than those two bright ideas I haven't a clue.
Karl
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Be sure to use a grill good final drive oil. I use Royal Purple.
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I did all that about three times on the old one and it seemed to make no difference. The latest theory I came up with is 1. the "weep hole" in the master cylinder was slightly out of position not allowing the fluid back in the reservoir or 2. the clearance between the lever and the master cylinder plunger was too small. Other than those two bright ideas I haven't a clue.
Karl
Some early NSS300 FORZA's had the same issue with dragging rear brake. The worst case (warrantied) repairs involved warped discs and worn out pads.
Stig
Only a newly manufactured caliper fixed the problem.
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Sneaky hunch says they dint make it right to start with.
Karl
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Anyone noticed that the resistance changes as you turn the rear wheel?
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...rear brake always dragged especially after using it and it would be a bit hot. New DT300i does NOT drag at all. What's the difference?
Karl
Always wondered about this myself. Every motorcycle, scooter that I have ever owned has a rear disc that gets "warm" even if you drive a few miles and only apply the front brake to stop the rear will be a little bit warm from drag. I've lubed the sliders, no change.
Regarding wheel drag - if you truly want to eliminate caliper drag you could unbolt it (but leave the brake line connected) then spin the wheel. Drag comes from the belt which is always touching the rear pulley. People expect the rear to spin like a bicycle and are surprised by all the drag.
This video or numerous others will show you what is going on:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bvI4GvniXlw (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bvI4GvniXlw)
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There is quite a bit of gear drag from the final reduction unit but no belt friction since the clutch bell is the only thing turning when back wheel is spun by hand. The belt turns the clutch assembly which is disconnected from the bell.
Karl
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There is quite a bit of gear drag from the final reduction unit but no belt friction since the clutch bell is the only thing turning when back wheel is spun by hand. The belt turns the clutch assembly which is disconnected from the bell.
Karl
Good point I forgot about that. Because rear wheel spins the gears in the differential.
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Today I changed my gear fluid with REDLINE Gear Oil.
Immediately the dragging disappeared. So it might be food for thought next time you discover a dragging rear wheel.
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Today I changed my gear fluid with REDLINE Gear Oil.
Immediately the dragging disappeared. So it might be food for thought next time you discover a dragging rear wheel.
I used that stuff years ago in my VW Bus's trans-axle......made for much easier shifting when starting out on very, very, cold mornings in a Mid Western winter. Had to think it was good for the gears, too.
Stig