KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 50cc => Super 9 => Topic started by: chaz35 on July 21, 2015, 02:34:29 AM
-
One came up on CL local to me, a 2005 Super 9 LC, I couldn't resist it. Doesn't run and been laid down a few times, so plastic not the best, but looks OK. My 2003 is red/ black too, so now I have twins.
Have some ?'s. 1st, all the oil drained out of the tank into the engine, and a fair amount ended up in the muffler too. The oil pump seems to be closing OK, I guess piston was just right in the cylinder to create a vacuum to suck oil out of the tank? Oil in muffler got there from some fool trying to start it after it already had a quart of oil in the engine? Was a little scary to buy it, cause I noticed right away it didn't have any oil in the tank, someone running it without oil was a possibility. No worries, after I got it home, I pulled the muffler and looked up the exhaust port, looks like brand new. Made a big mess in the drive way when the oil came out Lols.
I am wondering if I have a problem or it's common for the engine to fill with oil after sitting in a garage for 2 years? I suspect it's OK.
Another problem, I broke the auto bystarter pulling on it too hard to remove from the carb, carb is very gunked up. I was surprised it broke, my previous experience was it came out OK, but not this one. Lost the needle and spring too, so I probably need a new one.
But, I have an idea for a cheap fix. Why not seal off the orifice allowing gas into the carb until the auto bystarter closes? All the auto bystarter does is allow a little extra gas into the carb throat and then as it warms up, it closes it off. I have to manual choke my other Kymco scooters with OEM carbs (People 50 2T and Super 9 LC) to get them started anyway. They won't draw gas because of the pesky auto petcock. I just wrap a plastic bag around the pod air filter to seal off the air, and kick it a few times, starts easy. Just wondering if anyone else has set-up the OEM carb to work without the auto bystarter?
My 2003 Super 9 LC is running like a champ, rode it a couple of hours after dark, very nice temps at night, during the day not so nice, 100+. Cheers
-
My 05 acts as if it has oil settle in it just overnight. Good find, nonetheless. Unless you got robbed like I did on my TGB.
Amish sasquatch has some manual choke cables for sale if you go that route. Otherwise it wouldn't hurt to try it if you can fashion something that's able to be undone. Hell, I'm not sure if my choke is even working anymore. It almost seems as if it doesn't ever go up these days.
Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
-
You can get a manual choke delivered for under $20 and would be a lot easier than putting a bag around the air cleaner to start it. I really don't like the automatic choke on my People. Never realized that the hard starting was caused by the auto petcock. I may put a fuel cut off valve and fuel filter on and bypass that.
Just have to remember to turn it off when I shut the bike off.
-
Got it running, not good yet, but appears to be complete and ready for inspection. TX, requires liability insurance, inspection, registration, and motorcycle license.
I bypassed the auto bystarter, by blocking the end of the siphon tube that goes to the bottom of the bowl. I used a small amount of solder and pressed it into place with a small rod from the top. Then, I installed the broken auto bystarter to the carb as usual. Appears to work very well. Starts normal for me, always have to manual choke my other Kymco scooters to get them started, unless they are already warm. I think the ethanol in the gas maybe messes up the auto petcock? If I find another auto bystarter, I think I can reverse the work around easy and put it back as before.
Came with OEM exhaust and I like it OK, has nice crisp sound. I will probably get another Tecnigas Next-R pipe. Actually, while I am installing the BBK on my People 50 2T, I will probably put the Tecnigas Next-R pipe I have on it on the 05 Super 9 to test.
Already I have installed aftermarket pod air filter, and re-jetted the carb (102 main, 40 slow jet). Probably too rich, but I am still testing to make sure nothing is off before I run it hard. The oil pump is suspect because it filled the engine and muffler with oil. The water pump looks like it had some discharge from the weep hole that looks suspect. Plus, the coolant seems to run hotter than my other 03 Super 9 LC. I already changed out the coolant with fresh 50/50 anti-freeze.
I noticed my 05 Super 9 apparently doesn't have hi-beam lights, just one setting, no hi-low switch. Anyone else with 05 Super 9 have the same head lights? One big plus, the tach on this scooter works! The tach on my 03 Super 9 doesn't work, and I really don't know how to trouble shoot it. Cheers
-
I have the 05, just the simple headlight. No switch. Wish it had both.
Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
-
Triesandluth, thanks for reply , now I know nothing was swapped out incorrectly. My 05 People 50 2T has the best lights, 03 S9 OK, I can tell this 05 is not going to be great for night riding. You should see the lights on my son-n-law's Honda PCX 150, lights up road like auto, very impressive compared to how Kymco does.
Took 05 S9 it out for long ride today. Was smoking really bad, thought it was getting too much oil. I completely filled the oil tank so I could check the level as I rode. As I checked it, determined wasn't using excessive oil. I even backed off the amount of oil being metered a little. I finally figured out it just had a lot of oil in the muffler that needed to be burned out, took a couple hours, now it doesn't smoke anymore, yea small victory.
This 05 is in better shape than my 03. Actually, it runs great, doesn't really need anything, especially after I installed the aftermarket pod air filter and up jetted the carb. CVT is working as it should, CDI was already de-restricted, runs like a champ. Tires even look OK, my 03 tires were dry rotted, so I replaced them.
I really like the tach, can see I am in the red just a little at 80k/ 50mph, 8000rev's.
I guess I got lucky again, all 3 of my used Kymco's have been good ones. Cheers
-
I wouldn't fret about 8000rpm. You'll probably be able to run it to almost ten of you put the tecnigas on it.
Your oil in the cylinder bit, I can't home to try to work on my TGB that's been sitting. I noticed oil like substance has been leaking beneath it but I thought it was from the carb or something. Come to find that my cylinder was also filled with oil. Turned it over without the plug to get a surprise shower. Kind of par for the course, how today has went for me
Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
-
Good score on the bike, though. Glad it's all working out for you. I'm still eyeballing the one on Craigslist here that he hasn't budged on the price for eight months lol
Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
-
Let him sit on it through summer, come fall it will be worth less, if he still has it. If he sells it, you can buy it from the new guy later for less. I don't like to buy unless good deal, too many scooters out there, just wait for good deal, it will come. Of course, if gas prices go high, scooters will be worth a lot more IMO. Cheers
-
Would you mind sharing what you paid?
Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk
-
I sent you pm, cheers
-
My 05 S9 doesn't run that well anymore, maybe never did. It's OK at WOT, but doesn't like slow speeds, acts like it's starving for gas. As I recall, maybe didn't have this issue after I 1st got it to run, then developed it, and is getting worse.
At 1st, I thought it was carb, so I ordered larger slow jet (45) and installed it, but didn't fix the problem. Then, I cleaned the entire carb, but that didn't make any difference either, maybe ran worse. Then I checked the fuel filter, and seemed to be OK.
Next, I checked the carb float. Not real sure how to set the float. Manual says should be 8.6mm height, but not sure where to measure from, plus the bottom of the float is not flat. Float did appear to be twisted slightly, so one side was different measurement than other side. Anyone have experience setting the float height?, is it critical? I adjusted the height and leveled it side to side. Got dark, so will try the new float setting tomorrow, but don't expect any improvement.
Next, guess I will start swapping parts from one S9 to the other to see if I can find the problem.
Any comments welcomed. Cheers
-
Sounds like your air/fuel screw dude . at least try this warm scoot up . then set idle kida high not crazy high kinda high . then turn fuel screw all the way in . bike will die if you leave in . turn it to 1 turn out to start then chill 5 sec then half turn .chill 5 sec . do. This to you hear bike run smooth . then turn idle down to your preference. Give it a spin . if it bogs at top end turn open a lil 1/4 turn now . if bogs at low close it . try this out
-
Thanks for reply Rain, but don't think it's air screw, wish it was that simple. I have played with air screw and doesn't seem to make the difference. I was thinking too lean, but now I think maybe too rich, so will try turning out air screw more.
I leveled the float a little and seemed to help, but still have problem. Starts up nice, idles nice, but will not run if give a little gas, bogs, if give a lot of gas takes off and runs normal. Next, I think I will adjust the the float a little more to raise the level of gas in the bowl, seems to be pretty critical to get the height right, we will see.
I have OEM exhaust on it and may try Tecnigas NextR on it. Will be a pain, because have to take it off People 50 2T. My People 50 2T and S9 both have Tecnigas pipes with aftermarket pod airfilters and run great. I think maybe possible aftermarket pod airfilter and larger jets may be messing it up with OEM pipe, but don't know?, probably not.
-
OK, I did go out and try the air screw adjustment some more and Rain was right.
1st I turned it out from approx 1.5 turns I had it at, and made it worse. Then, I turned it in, which helped. Have it set at 1/4 turn out and seems to be acceptable. I still want to adjust the float level, but I am tired of messing with it for now.
Will take it for nice long ride, then put Tecnigas pipe on it. Cheers
-
;) glad its working but sh**ty thing is once pipe is on gotta adjust carb all over again. Welcome to my pain . all i do latley is play with carb lol kinda frustrating but a learning everything is worth it
-
OK, just got back from long ride, ran like a champ. Probably put pipe on tomorrow. Have BBK for People 50 2T I plan to start on now that S9 is running well. Will post about that project in People section. Thanks
-
It almost sounded like a possible vacuum leak to me at first, but glad you got it straightened out!
Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
-
Having fun with 05 Super 9, installed Tecnigas Next-R pipe and really helps. Initially had OEM CVT, which worked well with OEM exhaust. With Tecnigas pipe, was sluggish until hit powerband, so I installed 7.5g Dr Pulley sliders. 7.5g sliders were too light, would rev to the moon, lost top end, so installed Malossi variator kit with 9g rollers. This is same set-up I used on People 50 2T and was perfect on that scooter, but still a little sluggish from time to time on Super 9, but most of the time perfect, and great top speed. I think Super 9 LC engine is ported different from AC engines, makes more power, but at higher revs.
I don't know how fast I am going, but it's probably the fastest I have ever gone on 49cc. I am venturing out on 50/ 55 mph roads now, I am not worried about speeding tickets, but I am not in the way? The Malossi variator is really good for top speed.
Next I will try the OEM 8.5g rollers that comes on these scooters. At 1st, after I tried the 7.5g sliders, I thought maybe the torque spring was something after market and too stiff, but 2nd time I adjusted CVT, I pulled the torque driver, disassembled, cleaned, greased it, and it looked 100% stock Kymco. Next, I will try lighter rollers and go from there.
Another interesting item, I have new torque springs: Kymco OEM, Malossi Green, and Malossi Purple. Just pressing on them, I think the Kymco is definitely stiffer the Malossi, with Malossi Purple next, and Malossi Green the weakest, but hard to tell exactly. Surprising to me, I thought the Malossi springs would be stiffer than the Kymco? Maybe Malossi torque springs are weaker so you can run lighter rollers and waste less power? Cheers
-
OK, I installed Malossi variator with 7.5g Dr Pulley sliders and 100% stock clutch/ torque driver except with Malossi torque controller. Just about perfect IMO for stock engine with aftermarket airfilter, Tecnigas Next-R pipe, rejetted carb 45 slow jet, 102 main jet. Had great top end, took off from stop fast, no extra clutch slipping or too quick lockup, revs to powerband and stays there until starts to over-rev at top end, and can slow down and variator will bring revs back up everytime as needed.
I think will play around some with other torque springs like Malossi green and purple to see if will run well with lighter rollers. I have 5g, 8.5g and 9g rollers, and 6.5g, 7g and 7.5g Dr Pulley sliders. I am not sure Malossi torque controller really does anything, so may check with and without that too.
Went on long ride with son-n-law riding his 2013 Honda PCX 150. Top speed with Malossi variator was approx 5mph more than with OEM variator. I always follow him and was right on him all the time, on 45mph roads (we were going plus 50 with traffic) he didn't really have any top speed or acceleration on me. Of course, on faster roads he can leave me, Honda PCX 150 can probably eventually creep up to 70mph (he has never gone that fast). Cheers
-
I compared stiffness between Malossi green, purple, and Kymco OEM torque springs. I cut 1.5" piece of empty toilet paper roll and put it inside the torque spring to approximate length of the spring when assembled and compressed. Then, I used a bathroom scale to measure the weight required to compress each spring to approx 1.5". The stiffest spring was Kymco OEM, next Malossi purple and last Malossi green. The difference in weights was not much, but you could definitely tell there was a few lbs difference between each spring as you measured from the stiffest to the lightest.
Next, I installed the Malossi green torque spring to test with Kymco OEM fly springs, Malossi torsion control, Malossi variator, and Kymco OEM 8.5g rollers. I was expecting it to work well, except suspected would have problems re-accelerating. I was surprised that it was about perfect, maybe rollers .5g too heavy, and re-accelerated fairly well. The last set-up before this test was the same as the test, except it had Kymco OEM torque spring (stiffer than Malossi green torque spring) and Malossi torsion control was not installed. Without the Malossi torsion control and a stiffer torque spring, I had more problems with re-accelerating which I would normally expect better re-accelerating with stiffer torque spring. All this makes me think the Malossi torsion control must really help.
I think the Malossi green torque spring is probably faster because should take less power to function compared with the stiffer Kymco OEM torque spring. Scooter did seem really fast, I may be pretty close to having CVT optimized. Next will try Dr Pulley 7g sliders, because 6.5g and 7g sliders is all I have to try. I think 8g sliders should be perfect, and will probably order some 8g, but we will see.
Cheers
-
Glad to hear. I've been following this, since I'm planning to use a slightly lighter torque spring and lighter weights at some point. Right now I think that my torque spring's too stiff which makes me need the 9 gram rollers to stay below 10k rpms.
Thanks for sharing!
Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
-
Hello Tries, don't you have BBK on your S9? Did you ever install taller final drive? The way mine runs, I don't think I really need BBK unless I install taller final drive. I am guessing with BBK and taller final drive, S9 LC would be scary fast. On the other hand, AC engine on my People 50 and I guess the same engine on S9's with AC needs BBK with stock final drive.
-
Yeah, bbk (bastard is broke down right now😢) but never did the final drive gear. I've heard many people say that if you live in a flat enough area that you can run with just a pipe no problem.
Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
-
I have one hill on 50mph country road that is my test. Everywhere else, scooter powers along fine, but that hill (especially with headwind) will slow down scooter. If CVT will shift down and keep revs up close to 8000, I should have enough power and speed. When revs get down to 7000 I don't have enough power to keep speed up, so basically, I am in the way.
I still have a few more adjustments to test. I think pretty close to CVT staying in powerband going up this hill and still have good top end everywhere else. I may find only solution is BBK, but haven't given up hope yet. I already concluded need BBK with AC engine on my People 50.
I didn't take my scooter, but went to Rocky Mountain National Park this summer. Pretty obvious 49cc scooter would not do well in mountains lol's. Yes, there is a lot of flat land where I live. Cheers
-
Yeah, bbk is a must in some of the areas around me!
Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
-
Got in Dr Pulley 8oz sliders, installed, and went on long ride. Getting pretty close to as good as it gets w/ out BBK. This scooter flies. I am cruising on country roads 55 mph speed limit no problem. Has great top end, I like to keep revs around 8000 and speedo is approx 1/4" past 80km/ 50mph so I think I am pretty close to 50 mph actual. Most of the time engine is just loafing along, doesn't seem like working hard at all.
With 8oz sliders, doesn't appear to hurt top end any, and re-accelerates better than with Kymco OEM 8.5oz rollers. Doesn't quite rev up to 8000 when you slow and re-accelerate, but definitely now goes over 7000 which is where starts to make good HP, so pulls nice. I haven't tried for top speed, but seems like has lots left, I bet it will do 60mph with wind at my back, or especially slight downhill. This has opened up whole new riding area for me, I now have hundreds of miles of good country roads around my area I can safely explore.
Next, I will try 7.5oz sliders, might help a little or be too much, we will see. I think the Malossi green torque spring is helping. At some point with more HP belt will probably slip and need stiffer torque spring. But 49cc with just pipe, pod air filter, and carb re-jetted I think green spring is freeing up some HP that now gets to rear wheel. Cheers
-
Awesome! I'm having speed issues, if you go to 49ccscoot forums there's stuff me and Amish are going on about
Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
-
Yes, I used Amish's link and went to 49ccScoot.com, read a little, good site. These scoots are fun the mess with. I do think Dr Pulley sliders help with speed, but biggest benefit was the Malossi variator. After I installed it, the black mark on the toothed face drive disappeared, looked like belt was riding 1/4" higher.
I don't think CVT will ever be perfect for all conditions, maybe always be a trade-off between top end and keeping revs in power band. I am sure if you raced your scoot, you would be changing CVT for different tracks, weather conditions, etc. Cheers
-
Got in 7.5g Dr Pulley sliders, installed, and went on long test ride.
Maybe sliders just a touch too light, but 7.5g better than 8g. Engine revs to 8000 and stays there. Didn't effect top speed, still running the same top speed at 8000 revs. I tried my test hill and powered up hill better, lost a little speed, but was maybe 10 mph faster going up hill against a wind, didn't feel like I would be holding anybody up. Difference in HP at a little over 7000 revs and 8000 revs is substantial. Wish I could put on dyno to see exactly where makes peak HP and torque, but I think 8000 revs is pretty close with this pipe (Tecnigas Next-R).
I say maybe sliders just a touch too light because, from dead stop and slower speeds, don't really need WOT, seems to want to over rev a little, just feather throttle, and takes off great. When up to speed, and slowing due to hill/ wind, can go to WOT, then revs come back up to 8000 revs, and engine pulls/ sounds awesome.
I am finished with this one for awhile. Seems plenty fast for where I ride,makes great top speed at 8000 revs, engine should last long time. Cheers
-
Carburetor a little funky, doesn't run right without closing off the air mixture screw. Has always been this way since I originally got scooter running. My fix was to install larger slow jet. I had 45 in it and seemed to be OK, except idle was a little high, approx 2300 and erratic. If I tried to get it lower, would go below 2000, and I imagined would be hard to keep it running after initial start until warmed up. I ordered some larger slow jets: 48, 50, and 52 to try.
I tried 48 1st and didn't seem to make any difference. I always thought maybe carb was still dirty after initial cleaning after I 1st got scooter. So, I took off carb and gave it a good cleaning and put it all back together. Appears it did need to be cleaned, with 48 slow jet and 108 main jet it was now very rich at idle, I adjusted the air mixture screw out to approx 3 turns to keep it running, but would hardly 2 cycle going down the street, was so rich.
I changed the slow jet to 45 and that fixed it. Air mixture screw is approx 1.5 turns out now. Still may be a little rich, may try 105 main next and/ or 42 slow jet. I was pleased, 1st time this engine has ever idled right. Now has really nice idle at 2000 revs, could tell it was firing every stroke, was very consistent idle, always settled down to 2000 right on the nose.
Next, need to look at variator, it's not doing 8000 revs anymore for some reason. Still a little above 7000 revs which is OK, but I can definitely tell engine is not at peak HP until closer to 8000. I wonder if the Dr Pulley sliders have flipped or need a little cleaning and grease? Maybe engine is down on power because jetting is too rich, I don't know. Scoot is running very well, just not perfect.
Went riding this afternoon, 1st time with long johns on, still got cold, be glad when spring gets here. Cheers
-
CVT working Ok, but not as well as earlier, performance deteriorated for some reason. Originally, CVT would increase revs to approx 8000 whenever I gave it WOT to climb a hill, ran into a strong headwind, or both. Now, it will only rev engine to a little over 7000 at WOT when I need to re-accelerate. My performance going up hills and into headwind has definitely fallen off. Dead starts are great, actually maybe a little too many revs from dead start, but excellent take-off.
I think I am suffering from the dreaded dog leg in the OEM torque driver. The angle is not steep enough at low speeds, so revs a little too much at low speeds, and at high speeds the angle is too steep, so when the torque driver makes the transition, revs drop off too much. As I understand it, the angle is measured with 90 degrees being perpendicular to the pulley and 0 degrees being parallel to the pulley. The higher angle moves the pulley out faster, drops revs faster. I have Malossi torque driver 618317 for Kymco 49cc engines, that has the straight cut grooves with 2 different angles to try, but haven't been able to figure out how to install it, i.e. it doesn't appear to fit, without modification/ machining. I would love to get it installed, think it would be great for CVT tuning.
So, I disassembled CVT today to see what's wrong if anything. I was very careful taking off variator to see if Dr Pulley sliders had flipped, but looked OK. I did notice appeared to be binding a little on variator ramp, but otherwise looked in great shape. I think maybe my problem is a little binding between the variator ramp and the sliders?
Everything looked OK, so I swapped out the Malossi Green torque spring for the next stiffer one, Purple. Then I cleaned the variator and applied just a touch of grease to the variator ramp area, and put it all back together. This is the 1st time I have applied a little grease to the slider area, but have seen it recommended before. I probably should have just greased the slider and put it back the way it was, but seemed like too much trouble for a small change. Depending on how it goes, I may try 7g sliders, and put the green torque spring back next.
Tomorrow I hope to take a long ride to test and report will back. Cheers
-
I've recently been having issues with my torque driver and that crooked groove. My symptoms are a bit different. A stiffer torque spring should bring some rpms back for ya.
The grease, on the other hand, will most likely be just a mess for you. I've tried that and graphite with only negative effects. But good luck, nonetheless. I'll be keeping up to see the outcome. Ride safe!
Is this what you're talking about with needing machined? http://scooterinvasion.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2956
Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
-
Yes, that is excellent thread with pic of the problem.
I am thinking about just cutting off the top of the seal collar, instead of cutting down the lip on the torque driver. I checked the spring and it's OK, spring still has a little room for compression. I would also probably add a spacer to support the bottom of the seal collar, but not sure that is necessary. The Kymco seal collar is pretty beefy, would probably take the pressure of the spring, but the o-ring seal may get smashed too much, I don't know.
The bottom Kymco o-ring is a little thicker and appears it would work well as a seal to keep the grease in. If you install a torsion control, like the yellow Malossi 2512828, it takes up about the same distance as the lip, so I might leave that part out. Actually, with the torque driver that has straight grooves, maybe don't need the torsion controller anyway? Without the dog leg, the spring should be be twisting back and forth less.
I used very little grease, so hopefully doesn't make a mess, we will see. Was amazing how changed though, at 1st was working perfect, then started going south progressively. I am hoping a little grease will make a difference, but probably not.
Are you using sliders or rollers?
-
Good idea of cutting the collar. Sounds like you already checked everything that needs checked, now to try it!
I've been using rollers still. I bought some 9g sliders, but they make my rpms at take off too high again, but top speed rpms better. I was thinking that the aggressive ramps in the malossi variator don't like sliders like the stock variator did. I'm still going round and round with torque driver settings, making it hard to tune the variator. I'm in search of a decent but not too expensive torque driver so that I can try this polini variator I discovered in an agility I bought. It's face is 95mm compared to the malossi 89mm, which helps my top end drastically. Unfortunately it's really sensitive to the dog leg grooves and drops out of the powerband at about 30mph, making it very undesirable untilabout 40mph.
I hope to get that figured out soon. Let me know if you try cutting the collar e with that malossi torque driver.
Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
-
I am pretty focused on getting my People 50 BBK finished, then I want to install Malossi final drive kit. Will eventually do something with the Malossi torque driver.
Yes, I have done a fair amount of research on the torque driver. I think Malossi should modify their description to "may require modification for you application". I was totally blindsided when I got it, doesn't look like pic they show in ad. Scooter parts vendor was not helpful, actually I don't think they know how to install it.
Purple spring helped get it back to normal, but can still feel pesky dog leg in torque driver. Weather has warmed a little and I can tell my carb jetting is too rich, engine down on HP. I went riding last night and as it got cooler, my engine ran significantly better, was amazing. When engine is running well as it can, dog leg isn't very noticeable.
I am going to change my jetting to 42 slow and 105 main, I think it's 45 slow and 108 main now, have air screw approx 3.5 turns out. I must run my engines really rich. I used to be into minibikes that had Honda G100 clone 97cc flathead engines approx 3hp. I started rejetting the engines after I could tell HP dropped off because too lean when it cooled off late in the day. When you ride a lot, can get really sensitive to how everything is running.
I am beginning to think all you really need for street riding is BBK, pipe, carb jetting, Dr Pulley sliders, final gear kit, and would run like a champ.
I mainly like the Malossi variator because it gives me an additional approx 5mph top end. I tested the Kymco variator with sliders, and it works great. I wondered too if the sliders were working properly in the Malossi variator, because of comments about them flipping, but I don't seem to have that problem. I think they will last longer than rollers because of more surface area at contact points. I am noticing appears need to have too high revs from dead start to get revs right mid range, and I think it's because of the dog leg. Appears would be better to eliminate it with straight grooves like the Malossi torque driver.
I think Malossi torque driver is very cool, just wish it was a bolt on deal. I am sure Malossi could easily make one to fit, may have a later version that fits, I don't know. I have seen plenty of pics of Malossi torque drivers that don't have the lip. Also, they don't need to machine down the weld on the pulley side, I assembled it and has plenty of clearance to leave the weld, like the Kymco torque driver does.
Thanks for ride safe reminder. I've been looking at the Roadcraft section of this forum and has some really good safety vids, some scary ones too. Cheers
-
I did put the sliders in mine. I was trying to blame my rpm spike at takeoff on them, then on the torque driver, then on belt slip, but now I think it's the clutch. I believe it has had some oil introduced to the pads at one point, now I'm not sure if I can ever get it right again. I'm also going to try a new belt.
I know a guy that swears that all these super 9's need is a pipe and carb tuning to be a 50mph street machine. I prefer to spend WAAAAY too much time obsessing and tinkering. I'm moving into the tgb now. And maybe the agility again.
By the way, merry Christmas!
Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
-
What springs on your clutch? I like the OEM springs myself, with CVT, I don't think you really need to slip the clutch that much. Yes, I like to tinker on mine too, very satisfying to make changes and have it run better. However, I am a little frustrated with the People, got it running and very soon had another catastrophic failure.
Merry Christmas!
-
I'm running a malossi delta clutch with white springs that came on it. The stock clutch with some yellow springs is only very very lightly different than this one in it's out of the package state.
I believe I've remedied my problem with slippage. I had adjusted a little while back to where the weights are in the middle and the springs at the least bit of tension on them. I put them back to weights as far out, to sling the arms of it faster and harder, and the springs tightest again, and that seemed to remedy it. Now I feel like I can put my torque bearing kit back in so I can have the perfect down shift back!
I'll check to see what your catastrophe is...
Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
-
I don't see it posted, what happened?
Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
-
I'll post something soon, trying to get over a cold, moving slow. Cheers
-
Right on. Get well!
Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
-
I changed the carb jets from 45 slow/ 108 main to 42 slow/ 105 main. I also changed the torque spring from Malossi green to purple (purple's the next stiffer Malossi spring), and greased the sliders just a little. Then I took it for a long test ride.
Right away I realized it wasn't an improvement. Idle, take-off from stop was very good, but still had flat spot at dog leg, then once I pulled through flat spot, top end was very good. Unfortunately, I changed too many variables, so I wasn't sure what was causing the issue, flat spot? Was it the jetting or the grease on the sliders? I think I will just change the jetting again to 40 slow/ 108 main and try that. I know these little engines really like a lot of gas on top end, so maybe going to 105 was starving it for gas just a little, I don't know.
For the CVT, I can go stiffer torque spring or lighter sliders. I like the idea of lighter sliders better, plus easier to change out, so I will try that next. I already know what it will do, will rev to the moon on take off, then have great mid range, top end, and re-acceleration. So, with dog leg torque driver, probably will always be compromise.
Getting close the trying Malossi torque driver 618317. I made a spacer for the bottom to support the collar sleave, and now just need to shorten the collar sleave approx 1/4" to complete assembly. I used the white spring I got in the Malossi variator kit. I used a cut off grinder to cut off 1 coil. Then I twisted it some to flatten it, and tried to squeeze it a little smaller ID, which was difficult to do. It's made out of good spring steel, and doesn't like to change shape. I came out of the vise and shot across the garage several times, I gave up because I was going to get hurt eventually.
Here's a pic of the spacer and Malossi torque driver.
(http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w426/charlespou/IMG_0375_zpsumw6j8io.jpg) (http://s1075.photobucket.com/user/charlespou/media/IMG_0375_zpsumw6j8io.jpg.html)
(http://i1075.photobucket.com/albums/w426/charlespou/IMG_0376_zpsog6mpebf.jpg) (http://s1075.photobucket.com/user/charlespou/media/IMG_0376_zpsog6mpebf.jpg.html)
-
Another possibility is torque spring becoming weak. I spend most of my riding time at or near top speed, so torque spring spends most of the time fully compressed. I plan to start measuring them, as I have the assembly apart. I can measure length, and weight to compress to the fully compressed length on a bathroom scale, and compare measurements over time. Kymco service manual has minimum length for the torque spring, so I know it gets fatigued and needs to be replaced. Would be discouraging if my torque spring is already fatigued. Cheers
-
I'm still thinking that my ultra high rpms at take off can be attributed to so kind of slip from power. I'm trying to rule that out with a new clutch bell, and then clutch. I readjusted the settings on this malossi delta to sling out harder with the springs tighter, that helped but I still get a bit of what feels like slip when it's first being run, which is opposite what it used to be...
Nice use of that white spring. I think that's what it was made for lol
I tend you build around a broken in spring to avoid troubles. I figured that it can't get much weaker than the level of stiffness below it, do I started one higher and let it wear in. But I actually added back stiffness when I added the bearing torsion spring base. I've tried to think of ways to measure the rear pulley opening force.
Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
-
Oh no... I just found another lc super 9 in my area. And the price is almost right.... Waiting on a reply now...
Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
-
cool, good luck!
-
Changed carb jets to 40 slow, 108 main and went for long ride. My carb idle circuit on this scooter must have really been clogged. Actually, the carb idle circuits on my other scooters are probably clogged up too. Now that I have this carb clean, I keep going to smaller and smaller slow jets. In cool weather 40 slow is close to right, probably could go to 38, but will leave at 40 slow for now. Didn't make any difference in way CVT performed, thought there was a chance might make a difference, but no. Anyway, air screw adjustment is working well now.
When I 1st got one of these scooters air screw didn't seem to have any effect, usually ran it screwed in all the way closed. Now, it makes a huge difference, so that's progress.
Still having issues with CVT dog leg. Really running well, but definitely has a slow spot and drops revs to approx 7000 at approx 40mph from 8000 revs, then climbs back up to 8000 revs. I am close, if can get it to stay above approx 7300 to 7500 revs I think slow spot will go away.
Next I will try three 7.5g sliders and three 7g sliders vs all 7.5g sliders, and see how it goes. I think the grease messed me up, if anything, but wasn't huge difference. Cheers