KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 50cc => Agility 50 => Topic started by: JayAre on May 12, 2015, 08:39:43 PM
-
Bought a 13 Agility 50 last year 25mph tops then put a 72cc big bore kit in it this year, still sloooow. Started looking at the intake, exhaust, & transmission & what is Kymco thinking? 18mm carb with a 16mm intake manifold, a restriction in the intake tube between the carb & the air box, & another on the intake of the air box. Has anybody massaged/ported the intake & head to 18mm? Took a grinder to the tube & air box to see if this helps. Then cut the 5/8' exhaust tip off & welded a 1" on the muffler, the pipe leading to the muffler is 3/4". I have a derestricted CDI & coil coming that should help the 6.5 gram rollers work. Also the belt is about 3/8" into the driven clutch, that's like trying to start off in 2nd gear. Ordered a 20mm longer belt. I may be a newbie but I've been racing/playing with snowmobiles for years & always run the top of the belt to the top of the driven clutch not below it. Drive clutch controls the rpm's, driven the shift, does this sound like I'm on the right track? Thanks for any help!
-
Do you have a 2t agility? They never offered that in the USA, but if you do the engine should be the same as the People 50 2t or vitality etc etc.
-
Don't know what a 2T is, 2 stroke? Bought this in northern Michigan, the U.P. It's a 4 stroke, with a 18mm Kymco CVT carb. Will be putting the longer belt on today we'll see that, the intake & exhaust mods help. Still waiting for the CDI
-
First you should be using the OEM Kymco belt. Secondly everything maintenance wise ok? Valve clearance good, you'll have to do this more often with s kit. Did you pry that restricted bushing from the intake? You'll gain a lot of performance if you get a larger carb on there. Also what speed are you getting? If your going 50 out of it I'd be happy.
-
As B&L said, you should not use a longer belt. fI you have yet to "Re-Restrict" the Variator shaft on the front pulley, that would need to be done first. You will need to remove the restricted spacer and replace with Kymco #2000 spacer. I guess there is an aftermarket spacer also? The CDI box can be modified by grinding 5 to 6mm bevel across the lower edge of the box facing you. (with the harness plug in at the top facing away from you) This will sever the restriction wire. I don't think you need a different coil.
Replace the main jet with a #85 if only these mod's are done. You may need to go larger with airbox mod's
CJS
-
As B&L said, you should not use a longer belt. fI you have yet to "Re-Restrict" the Variator shaft on the front pulley, that would need to be done first. You will need to remove the restricted spacer and replace with Kymco #2000 spacer. I guess there is an aftermarket spacer also? The CDI box can be modified by grinding 5 to 6mm bevel across the lower edge of the box facing you. (with the harness plug in at the top facing away from you) This will sever the restriction wire. I don't think you need a different coil.
Replace the main jet with a #85 if only these mod's are done. You may need to go larger with airbox mod's
CJS
If its kitted you'll want to be larger than #85 jet, into the 90s easy.
-
Here's what I found... The Kymco manual lists a 20mm carb, mine has an 18mm, The jet is a 90, again the manual lists a 85 for stock, Pilot is as listed, 35. the plug is black. I'll be testing the enrichner next if it's good I'll jet back to an 85. I'm also thinking after market 20mm carb & do something, port or replace the restricted 16mm intake, anybody know of an after market Intake? The longer belt, Gates 748x18x28, seemed to help the bottom end/engagement & upshift but it's bogging because of jetting too much gas.
And yes I have a derestricted variator sleeve. The valve clearance I went with .003" bigger than the manual spec .002" that seems tight?
-
Here's what I found... The Kymco manual lists a 20mm carb, mine has an 18mm, The jet is a 90, again the manual lists a 85 for stock, Pilot is as listed, 35. the plug is black. I'll be testing the enrichner next if it's good I'll jet back to an 85. I'm also thinking after market 20mm carb & do something, port or replace the restricted 16mm intake, anybody know of an after market Intake? The longer belt, Gates 748x18x28, seemed to help the bottom end/engagement & upshift but it's bogging because of jetting too much gas.
And yes I have a derestricted variator sleeve. The valve clearance I went with .003" bigger than the manual spec .002" that seems tight?
IDK if you have the correct manual, the valve clearance is .004" or .1mm. Where did you measure the carb diameter? when it says 20mm (which I also think is the wrong spec) that measn 20mm venturi, not 20mm spigot.
-
I downloaded a manual for a 2013 50cc Agility everything looks the same in the pics as what I have. Valve clearance spec .002" seemed tight & that's why I went .003". I'll reset them to .004". The carb measurement, I made at the outlet where the butterfly is, this is the spigot? I'll measure the slide, that would be in the venturi. It still seems very restricted in the intake manifold at 16mm being just after the 18mm carb spigot. Terms are a little different than what I'm used to with snowmobiles, motorcycles, & cars. Thanks for the help everyone!
-
Wow! I bought this moped form the dealer with 13 miles on the odometer. The carb's slide diaphragm was folded into the chamber & a cover screw is stripped so it looks like someone has been in it. Also the auto bystarter/enrichner/choke, pulls 15 ohm, 10 max is spec. Hooked it up to a battery & it never closed off the port. So the auto bystarter not closing off the extra fuel & the slide not being able to lift because of the diaphragm is passing vacuum I think I've found the problems. Going to talk to the dealer tomorrow we'll see how that goes! Checked my manual it does list the valve clearance at .04mm for both valves .048mm converts to .002". Seems like everything else I work on has a 10% larger clearance on the exhaust more heat more growth? Probably over thinking it. Thanks B&L for your insight!
-
Wow! I bought this moped form the dealer with 13 miles on the odometer. The carb's slide diaphragm was folded into the chamber & a cover screw is stripped so it looks like someone has been in it. Also the auto bystarter/enrichner/choke, pulls 15 ohm, 10 max is spec. Hooked it up to a battery & it never closed off the port. Measured the slide at 18mm+ the radius cut would be around 20mm in the venturi. So the auto bystarter not closing off the extra fuel & the slide not being able to lift because of the diaphragm is passing vacuum I think I've found the problems. Going to talk to the dealer tomorrow we'll see how that goes! Checked my manual it does list the valve clearance at .04mm for both valves .048mm converts to .002". Seems like everything else I work on has a 10% larger clearance on the exhaust more heat more growth? Probably over thinking it. Thanks B&L for your insight!
Good job tracking that down, seems like they had to do a carb clean before selling you the scooter, and messed it up pretty bad. I just double checked (it's been a while since and agility 50 has come in for valve service) and indeed is .04mm, which is very tight but trust the service manual. Sorry for misleading you! Interesting thing is 99% of the other Kymco scoots have .1mm clearance, but like I said best to trust the service manual I guess. Keep us posted on how it feels after they get you a new diaphragm.
-
The dealer has ordered a new auto bystarter for me covered under warranty but that's 7-10 days out. The float level was set at 13mm & spec is 17mm, more gas. I'm surprised the bike even ran! Went to my local Artic Cat dealer & ordered 92.5, 95, & 97.5 jets I'll have those in 2 days. Going to put it back together Once all the parts are here with the float set at 17mm & a 90 jet.
-
Just received my warrantied auto bystarter from the dealer & installed it with a 95 jet, reset the float level to 17mm, & straightened out the slide diaphragm. Also have the 20mm longer Gates belt on it to get it to the top of the driven clutch sheaves. This 72cc BB 4 stroke is running with our 50cc 2 stroke Zuma's & will out pull them on a hill. Haven't tried it for top end yet as I still need to read the plug to see where the jetting is. I'll get a few miles on it varying the rpm's for the break in before it gets thumped on to much. Once I get the derestricted CDI I'll check to see if the rpm's go up at all.
-
Still on the lean side white plug & it starts popping out the exhaust wide open at 35 mph. I will need to order some bigger jets, 100, 102.5, & a 105. The longer belt gives it better bottom end/acceleration, but it may be hurting the top end. Hard to tell while it's running so lean. Hurry up & wait some more, hopefully I can get jets by Wed. Also received my derestricted CDI & will be installing it at the same time.
-
No jets yet so I bought a #60/1mm drill bit & made a 100 jet. The plug is dark brown/little on the rich side. But now it's surging during acceleration so I tried to raise the needle but there's no e-clip or slots to make an adjustment. It has a lock over the needle with a spring so at best I may be able to add 1 small washer to lift it. They've made it tamper proof for EPA/emissions like what they did with the pilot screw. This is going to be a hard carb to tune! I may be better off to by an after market conventional slide carb & toss this CV/emissions carb.
So moving on I then plugged in the brand new derestricted CDI & blew a fuse as soon as I hit the starter. Must be a sign so I'm done for the day. Going to look for a different slide/diaphragm with an adjustable needle & slotted pilot screw on the internet or maybe a pre-emissions CV carb. This carb is cast with Kymco on the side but it looks just like a Keihin.
-
Back at it, hooked up my inductive tachometer & it bounces when the miss occurs so I'm thinking I'm hitting the rev limiter. I thought I read someone had cut a newer Kymco cdi & never hit a wire so maybe they're updated? Ordered another new de-restricted cdi today. I hope this one doesn't blow fuses.
-
sorry to say but I feel a bang comeing from that scoot soon.
-
Blue You must be a glass half empty kind of guy. No wonder you're "Blue". I say the the glass is full, half full of water & half full of air. This bike will run well it's the finding & waiting for parts to make it right that's hard. Tuning is like going for a walk. Take one step at a time & eventually you'll you'll get where you want.
-
Blue You must be a glass half empty kind of guy. No wonder you're "Blue". I say the the glass is full, half full of water & half full of air. This bike will run well it's the finding & waiting for parts to make it right that's hard. Tuning is like going for a walk. Take one step at a time & eventually you'll you'll get where you want.
[/quote
Sorry about being so blunt. the last few big bore kits I have seen blow up because they play to much and make mistakes.With all the jeting .I realy wish ya luck. I always tell riders if they wanted faster get a bigger bike.
there are only so much you can do to a little 50cc scoot. my 50 cc is all stock but the drive boss and the main jet and I can do 45 to 50 all day. again sorry and welcome to the fourm. good luck. o ya nothing wrong putting someone in there place at times we need that. peace.
-
Thanks Blue! I really jumped the gun on this project. I assumed, (short for make an ASS out of U/the dealer & ME) the bike was never right when I bought it with 13 miles on it. They said they needed a day to clean the carb & make sure the battery was charged before I picked it up. I put the bike away, at 130 miles, because I found a sweet deal on 2 2005 Yamaha Zuma's, they went 25mph up hills, the Kymco wouldn't go 10mph up hill & there's a lot of hills in Marquette. Again "assuming" 4 strokes need 25-30% more displacement to compete with a 2 stroke I installed the BB. When I started to tune the carb for the BB I found the diaphragm was folded into the chamber, float level 4mm to high, & the auto by starter was stuck open. Shame on me for missing the obvious. I'm 56 yrs old & have been playing with cars, bikes, & sleds for 40 yrs. Start with the basics!
I'm not looking to make a high rev bike here just trying to keep up with the 2T's. Once I get the new cdi I'll probably end up adding weight to the variator to keep the revs down & use the BB torque to climb the hills, or go back to the shorter belt to pull some gear out of it & load the motor. The main jet is close as the plug is dark brown after a wide open pull. This is an emissions carb so it's tune ability is limited from idle through the midrange(no needle adjustment). I'm trying to keep a post & maybe save someone the headache's I'm going through. Once I'm done tuning I'll post my final setup. One step at a time & I'll get there. This ain't my first pair of pants just a little smaller than what I'm use to :)
-
Put the new derestricted CDI in the bike & it would not fire. Not even a pop. This just keeps getting better. This is 2 CDI's off E-bay. The first Blue with an aluminum housing, blew the fuse. Now this one, Orange plastic case, won't fire the bike. Zero spark. I think I'll call Scooter Dawgs, or Moped Hospital & make sure I'm getting one that will works! And I'd like to get some heavier weights to pull the rpms down. Any body have an opinion on a good USA source for parts? I'm gone for a week for training so it'll be next weekend before I can try it again. At least that'll give the shipping time to happen :-\
-
I didn't see you mention it, but make sure you're getting the right kind. I think DC is standard among 139qmb engines, but kymco uses AC (someone correct me if I'm wrong).
To the poster stating he can run 45-50 all day long: are you talking mph? And is that speedometer or actual (gps verified). My scoot runs great, but it will only do 44mph (gps verified) downhill (and I'm pretty sure it goes into valve float at that point). The speedo is reading somewhere over 55mph at that point. I've found that on my scoot, the actual speed in mph is pretty close to half of the speedo indicated kph. That being said, i can do 35mph (actual) fairly easily on flat ground most of the time. The slightest incline drops the speed. Heck, a headwind will keep it at 30mph. I've been thinking about doing a small bbk just to help with acceleration and hills. I'm fine with a top speed of 40mph. And i think that's honestly all she's geared for.
-
The cdi is DC but the stator puts out Ac.there is a relay for the dif.
-
Got the new DC/6 pin/CDI from Universal Parts DBA Parts For Scooters.com, same results pops the fuse. The electrical schematics shows a Regulator/Rectifier which would make it a DC system the way it's wired. There's 4 wires used, 3 on the 4 pin plug, 1 on the double plug. One wire to the switch, one to the pulsar/trigger coil, one to the ignition coil, & a ground. I haven't had a chance to ring the pins out & compare resistances on the CDI's to try to figure out if something's different the way the two are configured.
I did load the variator with 8 gram Dr. Pulley rollers & put the shorter/stock belt on to load the engine & pull the rpms down using the stock CDI. Still have a miss after the bike gets to about 18 mph/wide open throttle, then will continue to miss anything over about 1/3 to 1/2 throttle. Also my multi meter crapped out so I can't tell where the rpms are now. I got no luck on this project :-\. Pulled the intake tube to the carb to see what's happening in the venturi, when it starts to miss I found the slide is dropping. I'm thinking the air cut off valve is malfunctioning? Or the miss/back fire is pulsing & pushing the slide diaphragm back down? When I get some time I'll pull the carb apart again to check the air cut off circuit. I'm also going to check fuel flow from the tank to make sure it's not running out of fuel.
-
There is one proven formula for these bikes that gets 40-50mph.
50mm bore kit, 5.5gr rollers or better 6gr Dr Pulley sliders, Red Malossi contra spring, 20mm Fleabay carb, CDI
The way to tell if it is an AC or DC cdi is turn on the key. There will be +12v on the CDI if it is wired that way.
Kymco agility-s are wired DC BUT it may have been chanced by a hack dealer so double check it.
It also will not start with a dead battery if that is an issue.
If you go for the 50mm kit/ 50mph, if you have the 47mm / 45mph with all the listed mods.
Also the longer belt will not pull all the way down into the clutch pulley so you lose top end.
The free mods are drilling two 1" holes into the back of the airbox cover, and six 1/2" holes in the back cover of the tail pipe. You already did a 1" hole so you need four more 1/2" around that one.
You obviously know your stuff so just get used to the bike, and you'll like it better than the Zuma.
Parts for scooters .com. Best place I know for fast parts but Fleabay has better prices.
-
I see your scoot is a 2013 mmmmmmm Im not sure if cutting the cdi was a good thing maybe that's whats wrong. Some of the scoots that are newer then 2010 don't need the cdi cut. You can get a race cdi then that will bypass everything going on with the cdi. Also try a 20mm carb. clean all your wire plugs and make sure all is grounded good. 1 bad ground will make fuses plow.
-
I haven't cut the CDI because of what I've read on this forum, someone cut their's & never hit a wire, CDI's possibly changed after 2011... I have bought 2 "racing CDI's from different sources, see attachment, with the same result. It blows the fuse when as soon as I hit the start button. I didn't find anything wrong when I pulled the carb apart. The air cut off circuit looked good, diaphragm, o-ring, & ran a tip cleaner through the port. I haven't checked the fuel flow from the tank or did any testing/ring out & check resistance on the CDI yet to see if maybe they're configured differently. Also I'll check the gas tank vent/gas cap. I have seen caps/vents plug up from the ethanol/sugar. The only other thing I can think of would be the intake valve sticking on the head? Not a lot of time as I'm trying to get my garagemahal built, 30'x50' garage, for all my projects, 82 Z28, 74 Kawasaki Z-1 900, boat, along with disc golfing & volleyball, and the damn work thing takes up 50-60 hrs a week!
-
Wow at this point I would take it in to a shop and let theam find out whats wrong.wireing stuff gets to me dont care for some of the ways some scoots are wired.to much for me if I cant fix it maybe someone else can.
-
Off to a great start left the key on & the battery is dead, it's on the charger. I did test the CDI's & the pins test very differently. The 2 pin plug on the bike uses only 1 pin which is the power from the switch. The 4 pin uses only 3, the pulsar coil, the ignition coil, & ground. The 2 pins that aren't used have no continuity/connection, to any other pin or between them. On the new/racing CDI's the 2 pin plug/red & black wires appear to be power & ground, with no resistance between them. The 4 pin has way different resistance between the pins & the direction of electrical flow is also different than the stock CDI. I'm pretty good with electrical systems & have some basic understanding of electronics. So, with that I would have to say my 2013 CDI is configured differently & this is why it blows the fuse with the racing CDI's.
I also checked the gas flow from the tank & the gas tank's vent which both tested good. I did notice the vacuum supply to the gas tank shut off valve also supplies the emissions system so I'm going to disconnect the emissions to see if it makes a difference. If that doesn't work I'll bypass the fuel shut off & try it. These 2 tests will eliminate fuel delivery to the carb but that'll be tomorrow once the battery is charged.
As for taking it to a shop I live in Marquette MI a town of 26,000. It's the biggest city in the Upper Peninsula of MI. Population of the entire U.P. is about 100,000. There's only 2 shops that deal moped's within 60 miles. One is the Yamaha dealer, the other Honda & Kymco. It's the dealer I mentioned earlier in this book of posts. Besides hiring it would take challenge out of it, & the only tool they have that I don't is the factory help line/technician. I've got this forum which has some very helpful people contributing! Thanks everyone.
-
Battery is DEAD. Wouldn't even take a charge so I bought a new one. Finished off the fuel test same results still have the miss.
I bought a 20mm Keihin CVK carb that came in the mail Saturday & installed it with a 98 jet. The miss is gone, it pulls 25+ up hills, & I'm getting 43 top speed with 8gram weights & the stock belt. Still needs a little more tuning in the midrange, the needle is all the way up & it still feels lean/surges, & I need to give it a little throttle to start so I'll play with the pilot jet. Also I'll go to 100 jet & play with the needle this week for the midrange & maybe try the 7gram weights. It's pulling the hills which is what I was looking for when I started this fiasco. I've never had so many problems tweaking a machine before. Maybe they get more fickle the smaller they get!
-
Put in the 100MJ, and the 7gr weights. The needle may have to stay up because the main might still be lean but you can also compensate with a larger pilot.
I use torch tip cleaners to open up small jets. Use the files to slowly open them up. If you go too big you can fill the jet with solder, and begin again.
It really helps dial in the size you need.
-
Thanks Zombie! Here's my theory. The stock 16mm carb was just too small. CV carb's have to be sized to the displacement & air flow/volumetric efficiency, of the motor. So I'm guessing the increased motor displacement/air flow, was opening the slide too fast causing a lean miss. I tried opening the pilot screw/it bleeds air into the slide diaphragm to slow it's opening. But like I said, the 16mm carb is just too small. I can recreate the miss with the 20mm carb by turning pilot screw out only 1 turn.
So, last night I drilled a jet with #60 drill bit which is .040"/1.01mm reset the needle at the 3rd slot & have the pilot screw set at 2 1/2 turns. I picked up 2mph up hill, 29 on Hewitt st my test bed, & 2-3 mph top end 45. So I think I'm happy where it's at. I'm sure I could probably tune a little more out of it but I'm going to stay with the 8 gram weights to hold the rpm's down & maybe make the motor last a little longer. It's running stronger than our 2 stroke Zuma's on hills, & maybe 1-2 mph faster top end.
Here's my final set up. 72cc/47mm Big Bore with the big valve head from Enviromoto/E-Bay. Derestricted variator boss with 8 gram rollers. Bone stock on the rear/driven clutch, with the stock belt. Stock CDI. 20mm Keihin CVK carb 101 main jet, Stock pilot jet/has no markings, & 2 1/2 turns out on the pilot screw, 3rd slot down on the needle. The float level I couldn't find a factory spec so I set it 13mm to the seam in the middle of the float from 1 of the 2 small oval pads next to the outside edge of the floats/hope that makes sense ;) I did ALOT of derestricting/grinding & cutting holes, in the air intake system/pre carb, with the stock pleated air cleaner. I'm at 600' to 1500' altitude. Opened the exhaust outlet to 1"/cut the old 5/8" pipe off drilled 1" hole & welded an exhaust tip back on. I set the valves cold at .004". It doesn't tick so I'm sure it's fine, too tight would hang the valves open & drop compression once it warms up. Betting & losing had mentioned most other models were set at .004" so I'm going with it. Thanks everyone! It's been a learning experience for me. I hope this will save somebody some headache's if they Big Bore one of these!
-
Here's a great web page on carb theory I found, www.slideshare.net/J.T.A.JONES/carburetor-theory (http://www.slideshare.net/J.T.A.JONES/carburetor-theory)
I had never messed with CV carbs before this just round & flat slides I found it very helpful, how the pilot screw controls the slide speed. There's some great info on all types of carbs. Personally I wish everything I owned was fuel injected. With the new block learn systems they've come out with, just enter some basic data/displacement, compression... & the fuel maps will tune themselves! Now if they could do that for clutches :o
-
That sounds great Jay. Finding what works for you is the goal in all of this tuning business.
Thanks for the link on the carbs too. That alone is worth the price of admission.
The only point I differ on is the rollers. If you get the correct weight, it will not increase wot rpm. All they will do is hold a lower gear longer. Not by much but enough to help on hills or coming off corners.
It's a balancing act between the rear control spring, and roller weight.
No biggie at all, as long as you are happy w/ your bike.
7 years, and I'm still changing my 2t around. Odd thing is I have been more than happy with it in a dozen incarnations. I just always know I can get more from it.
My 4t??? Set it, and forget it. Done once, and happy.
-
My clutch theory comes from racing snowmobiles. I started years back by reading a book, Clutch Tuning Handbook by Olav Aaen. It's about tuning CVT's/constant variable transmissions, belt drives or whatever you want to call them. The big difference between snomo's & bikes are, the primary/drive clutch uses ramps & rollers/weight to create force to over come a compression spring & it controls the max rpm's. The secondary/driven clutch uses a helix/ramp angles, with a spring that applies either torsional or compression or both to control the shift on my snomo's. So I tune to the motors max HP/target rpm, on the drive clutch & the upshift/backshift on the secondary/driven clutch. The rpms can vary if the 2nd is shifting too fast/pull down rpm's, or too slow/over rev. But like you said it's a balancing act. Find what works for you & go with it!
-
It is similar in these but much simpler.
Max RPM is dictated by the rollers, and the rear spring in combination. The biggest difference here is rider weight is the variable. Our CVT's have to be tuned to let a low HP engine deal w/ a high weight rider.
-
10-4 My last race sled was the opposite, 700 lbs with me on it & 140 HP stock class. The biggest trick was hooking up. When I had good traction 0-60 was less than 3 seconds. Once the clutches were set up you'd pin the throttle to the bar & it would hold 8300 rpm's start to finish. Carb tuning was on the lean side because they always run the best just before it burns down. $$$ LOL
-
100% on the same page!
I considered 1/8 mile drag scooters for a little minute... That went out the door for speed record builds.
I'd rather blow a crank every few runs, than a piston every run. I have a box full of pistons from my ZX. Maybe 20 of them. several lasted less than a mile total.
One thing I never tried is sleds. Just never found the time. I'd build dirt bikes all winter, and wait for spring.
-
I don't remember the guys name from Enviromoto who I bought the BB kit from I believe he's the head, or some part of the Midwest Scooter Racing Association. Or maybe it was The Great Lakes Scooter... I thing for sure, these bikes are a lot cheaper to build than my sleds.
My wife has been running the bike for a few days now, plus I've done a couple of 20 mile "tests". She's got about 100 miles on the BB. Time to change the oil & clean the screen. I'm going to wait to put synthetic oil in it though. I'm thinking somewhere around 500 miles to make sure everything is good & broke in.
It's great to be able to pull 25-30 mph up hills so she's not getting passed. It seems to get better mpg's than the 2T Zuma also. Not ripping on the Yamaha they build great machines! That's what I used to race for 15yrs. Then Yamaha gave up building 2 stroke snowmobiles & I gave up racing. Now I just play in the backwoods, boondocking & getting stuck on a Skidoo.
-
Just an update on the bike. We have 700 miles on the BB & it's running great! The variator/clutch started to engage a little hard so I pulled the cover & cleaned everything up with some brake cleaner & a Scotchbrite pad. The engagement is nice & smooth again. So much for the thought of upgrading the Malossi variator, if it works don't fix it.
-
5 years & 3500 miles on this 50 - 72cc Big Bore. New belt at 2500 miles. The only problem was at 2800 miles it became hard starting but a new plug solved that.