KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 50cc => Super 8 => Topic started by: gremlim on January 10, 2015, 07:22:01 PM
-
Hi all
I have been trying to find the cause of my 2t not starting. I have changed the cdibox and the plug and iignition coil but still no spark. Does anyone know what ac volts I should read on a multimeter when kicking the engine overIhaveacread lots of different things and the ffigures vary from .5ac to 80 ac
-
Is the "stop/run" switch in the "run" position?
Karl
-
It doesnt have
one
-
These might help... Also does your scoot have a kill switch on the side stand? Many do!
One other thing... You're bike fires DC input for the CDI, meaning the rectifier has to be working to supply DC voltage.
If you read ANY ac voltage by spinning the flywheel I would suspect the rectifier went bad or the connector to it failed.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AZbg-krvZM4 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AZbg-krvZM4)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MWU2TbEePsY (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MWU2TbEePsY)
-
The side stand has no switch. I have checked the rec as per the manual but dont get the same readings. Also thebike got harder and harder to start and the low beam headlights stopped working as well. Would that be the reg/rec as well?
I thought the cdi was ac as the service manual says that Its a uk 50cc 2sttroke ifthat makes any difference.
-
Ok, back to the drawing board. I assumed it was a 4t 50...
The head light is also AC fired so if it is not coming on when you kick the bike, your stator has failed. Since the rectifier is under 20 bucks I would also replace that if the readings are off.
Stators can spike voltage, when they fail, and take everything else out w/ them. Get OEM Kymco parts cause matching other China parts is a pain.
-
Thanksfor the help I will get one asap :)
-
You might not be getting any spark due to a defective spark plug or ignition coil. The ignition coil is the part that sends the spark.
-
I have tried new ignition coils so I think zombie may be right. The lightss don't come on when I kick it over
-
An update on this problem. I have tried a new stator and still have no spark. Would the reg/rec have any influence on this?
-
Anyone have any ideas? :)
-
Try un-plugging the rectifier, and see if you get spark. It may be shorting the stator to ground.
Also try clipping the black, and yellow striped wire to the CDI. That is the kill wire.
-
I have checked all the wiring and cannot find any breaks. Does the reg/rec have any influence on the spark? As thats the only part I havent changed.
-
Yes because it is a DC fired CDI. That means if the rectifier is shot... No spark
-
I am now a bit confused when I got the bike the battery was flat but the bike still ran. I figured that means its ac fired am I wrong :-)
-
I thought it was ac as when I got the bike the battery was flat but it still ran ok :-)
-
2T, My bad... I keep mixing them up.
Shaka once said that swapping his rectifier fixed a no spark. I never looked at the wiring diagram to confirm this GUT I have heard it said here.
Did you try clipping the black/ yellow stripe wire at the cdi?
Also thy a continuity meter thru all the wires to the cdi, and Ign switch / stator.
Either something is open or shorted. Ie: broken wire inside the insulation or the bl/y wire shorted to gnd.
-
Hi all I have an update on the problem. I have tried a new rectifier and have cut the yellow and black wire but still no spark. I have also checked all wiring from the ignition switch through to the cdi and the coil and they check out . Anyone have any other ideas?
-
Everything is new so it is either the engine/frame/battery ground or you have a defective component. Check the spark plug, and the coil/coil wire for continuity. Check all the ign. wiring for a short to ground.
Sometimes disconnecting everything, and running jumpers (new harness) will help you narrow it down.
-
I might sound a bit stupid but how do I test for a short to ground? And where do I start.
-
how do I test for a short to ground
How to diagnose/fix a parasitic draw on your motorcycle (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vrNvkJ2EtvE#ws)
-
Set the meter on any Ohms setting. 10k works well.
Touch the tips together, and it should swing to "0".
Put the negative lead on the battery, and start probing wires. Don't poke holes in them just go in at the connectors.
I would start at the stator, and work thru from there. Disconnect all the components, and check each wire. The only wire that should read "0" are the Green wires. They are grounds. Every one of them should read "0".
All the rest should show no movement of the meter.
I would check the spark plug too.
-
I have had a quick look and have readings of 420 on the black/yellow wire from the ignition coil and 120 from the blue/yellow wire at the excitercoil. Meter was set too 20k. Does that mean anything bad?
-
Anyone have any idea?
-
Did you say your battery is good or not? Just stalking the thread, waiting for your success.
-
An update. I have checked all the wiring again and have found a reading of 0.70 on the blue/black wire from the cdi to the ignition. Is that a sign of a broken wire?
-
Anyone?
-
Bump
-
Yes. The wire should read 0 ohms.
I have found the copper does not always continue thru the insulator. One bike in particular, a TGB had several wires that had ONE strand inside. I stretched the wire, and it broke like a piece of spaghetti.
Have you tried just jumping the wire?
-
I have tried that without sucess. I am going to take the complete loom out this weekend and will check the whole thing and replace if necessary