KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 50cc => People 50 => Topic started by: chaz35 on January 01, 2015, 08:28:48 PM
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Front brakes work well, but return of lever is sluggish. The end of the lever is busted off, so maybe master-cylinder internals are worn or misaligned. I guess I need to take it apart and have a look.
Also, scooter is 2005, so I was thinking about flushing the brake fluid. Any suggestions on how to? I understand these brakes take DOT 3 fluid, and I am a little leary of it. My only experience with DOT 3 is it cystallized in the brake lines of a kart left in storage for several years, took some work to get it cleaned out.
Cheers
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Dot 3/4 are the same except for the heat tolerance. They both are hydroscopic (adsorb water). Dot 4 is mainly for bikes due to better heat tolerance.
It's possible the lever is bent or the mount bosses tweaked. Pull it apart, and see.
To change the fluid I simply open the bleeder, and attach a hose into a container for the scrap fluid, and then open the fill cap on the bars. Just squeeze the lever till the fluid is low enough to re-fill, and keep repeating until it is all fresh through out.
Maybe 8-10 refills.
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I've had a few bikes in the shop that had been down and the brake felt horrible. I think when it hits the lever it can also damage the master cylinder. Best to just get a new one.
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Thanks for replies. I guess will disassemble and go from there. I imagine new mastercylinder expensive. My experience with karts was to buy new ones, I rebuilt one 1 x and it was wasted time and $'s. After that experience, I treated them like batteries, any trouble out of it and I replaced it with a new one. Cheers
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Ebay...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Scooter-Brake-Master-Cylinder-Front-Brake-Lever-Brake-LightSwitch-GY6-50cc-150cc-/171479987782?pt=Other_Vehicle_Parts&hash=item27ed00f646&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Scooter-Brake-Master-Cylinder-Front-Brake-Lever-Brake-LightSwitch-GY6-50cc-150cc-/171479987782?pt=Other_Vehicle_Parts&hash=item27ed00f646&vxp=mtr)
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Since you're having a discussion about front brakes, I thought to add my question here.
I recently noticed that level of DOT on front brakes of mine People is close to minimum. As far as I know it was never changed (I'm the second owner) so it would be good to change it (scooter was made in 2008). I thought that maybe I should change the pads too on this occasion?
What do you think? They seem rather slim to me, but hey, I'm just a newbie ::)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/538/QQl0J1.png) (https://imageshack.com/i/eyQQl0J1p)
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How many miles on your scooter?
I am a newbie too, but pads look OK to me. You could always buy and install new pads. Brake fluid level will go down as the brakes wear, because the caliper piston moves out increasing the amount of brake fluid in the caliper. Probably not a bad idea to flush with new brake fluid. I have 2005 People and 2003 Super 9 that I plan to flush the brakes soon. Brake fluid is very cheap, and seals, etc will last longer with fresh brake fluid. I think Z described how to do it above.
These are great scooters. I just got back from riding mine a little in the neighborhood, fun. I recently ordered a pipe, but runs so well, not sure I really need a pipe. Now I am trying to figure out what to do with the CVT, which will need some adjustments after I install pipe, as I understand it. Cheers
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Those pads are totally shot!!! You should replace asap. And I wouldn't put fluid in until replacing the pads, the level will most likely be in the right spot after new pads. Wouldn't hurt to flush the fluid, but being a 2008 it's not that old. I'm picky about my scooters, and end up doing a brake fluid flush about once a year just because.
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Since you're having a discussion about front brakes, I thought to add my question here.
I recently noticed that level of DOT on front brakes of mine People is close to minimum. As far as I know it was never changed (I'm the second owner) so it would be good to change it (scooter was made in 2008). I thought that maybe I should change the pads too on this occasion?
What do you think? They seem rather slim to me, but hey, I'm just a newbie ::)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/538/QQl0J1.png) (https://imageshack.com/i/eyQQl0J1p)
LOL I just posted this to Chaz on his other thread...
"Look up Malossi pads for the front. Even if yours are still good. It's a night, and day swap, and they last forever. I haven't ridden my 2t in about a year but the Malossi's look like brand new after 5 years of 60 -70 mph daily driving (maybe 50mph average daily but its been over 80mph)"
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Quote Chaz
" Now I am trying to figure out what to do with the CVT, which will need some adjustments after I install pipe, as I understand it. Cheers"
Usually you go to lighter rollers to allow the bike to rev up into the pipes power band quicker. For a real kick in the nutz... Install Malossi Black fly springs.
They will stall the clutch until you are on the pipe, and the bike will almost drop you off the back. 5hp is alot on a hundred pound 2t bike. 0-60 in 4-5 seconds maybe.
Just sayin...
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10hp is more ^^^^^ LOLz
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Mine goes to 11. Plus I carry a loaded 13 gauge on the bars! >:(
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Experts have spoken, I would get new pads, don't want to mess around with brakes. Cheers
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You know... I noticed something. All these threads get hundreds of views, and in very short order.
WHO ARE THESE PEOPLE!?!> WHY DO THEY NOT SPEAK!?!>
I suddenly feel like the fella from the Truman Show. I guess that's better than a lion behind glass.
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I've got 6k miles on mine. I know that the brake fluid level will compensate the brakes pad wear and that's why I was wondering if I should replace the pads instead of just flushing the old fluid and replacing with new. BTW, even with these worn stock pads the front brakes are so much better than the rear :-\ I will look up Malossi for the front.
Haha Z, I agree. Well, or maybe some of us like to read the same topic 50 times? Who knows? ;D
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When I took motorcycle riding class, they said front brakes are approx 75% of your braking power. Cheers
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Ah I see... I've still got that in front of me :)
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I never thought of that. Maybe all the "views" are just one lonely guy... :'(
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Hey guys, which front brake pads are better, Polini or Malossi? Price is nearly the same, the Polini ones are slightly more expensive but easier to get (I would need to wait for Malossi).
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Polini makes some GREAT stuff. I'd say go for it. I only run Malossi cause they were easier for me to get. :D
You can compare what they are made from on each of their sites. My guess is they are the same or so close it won't matter.
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Cool, thanks! I ordered the Polini front pads and Malossi rear brake shoes. To be honest the delivery time doesn't matter much because I'll be doing the upgrades as late as in late March/beginning of April as currently I'm very busy here in the big city, but at least I have it all figured out & ordered already. I took the battery out of the scooter and brought together with me here to the city as a reminder ;D BTW, I bought a CTEK MXS 0.8 charger for it. Hope it will be good. Last year I had to replace the battery because it was dead (6 years old and not storaged correctly).
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Ctek makes a great product. I have installed a couple dozen of their Marine set ups over the years, and I have had no issues with them.
A six yo battery owed you nothing. I'm surprised you got that much life from one.
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A six yo battery owed you nothing. I'm surprised you got that much life from one.
That's true, but with the new battery, I will go for breaking the record. I will post in 10 years if I succeed ;D
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;D ;D ;D ;)
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Finally got around to bleeding my brakes, very easy. Hardest part was removing the plastic so you can get to the master cylinder. Remove the top of the master cylinder, and loosen the bleeding outlet at the caliper. Leave a box end wrench on the bleeding outlet so you can close it after squeezing the brake lever, but before you release the lever. If you release the brake lever before closing the outlet, if will suck in a little air and the brakes will not get as firm. Cheers
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Wow sounds quite easy Chaz! So after getting rid of old fluid I close the bleeding outlet and release the brake lever and then I can fill the master cylinder up?
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Have to pump the brake lever, I didn't make that clear. Open the bleeder valve at the caliper, pull the brake lever and some brake fluid will come out, close the bleeder valve, then release the brake lever, repeat many times. Watch the brake fluid level at the master-cylinder and add as needed. After the air is out of the system, the brakes will be nice and firm. Cheers
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One more thing, be careful with the brake fluid, it's corrosive, will damage paint especially. I was pretty sloppy with it and got it everywhere, may have consequences later? Put a tube over the bleeder valve at the caliper and put the other end into a can, after the can gets some brake fluid in it will help to keep air out of the caliper while you are bleeding it. Cheers
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Thanks Chaz :) That makes perfect sense. And it's a nice tip with this can under caliper, I will just have to find a tube that fits it well!
I'm planning some upgrades in the end of this month, including front pads and rear brake shoes change, new OEM vario belt, new lighter rollers, as well as fixing the speedometer (need to replace the speedo gear near the wheel). It's good to start the season with a fresh bike! :)
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I replaced my front brake pads with Polini organic pads, part number 174.0049. I rode a few hundred miles so far since putting them on and I can recommend them. No squeaky sounds, stopping power is good, modulation is also good, they perform well when wet. What more could you want eh?
And here's a pic of my worn out OEM pads - seems like it was a perfect time to change them ;D
(http://i.imgur.com/iio25kdl.jpg)
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Quick question, one of my pads is super work out, yet it still rubs on the disk. I can spin the wheel but it doesn't Spin as freely as my agility...I did a brake flush and the lever seems to be ok. What can be the problem?
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Most likely the rotor is warped or the piston bore (caliper) is dirty.
Brake fluid absorbs water, and the caliper bore(s) will get pitted. The best thing to do is remove the caliper, pull out the piston or blow it out w/ compressed air (careful). Then you can use 1000 grit emory paper to clean up the bore(s).
Get a new "O" ring from the local hardware, and put it all back together.
On MOST bikes the pads will always touch but with no pressure. The "O" ring acts as more than a seal. It also acts as a spring to relieve the pressure when the lever is released.