KymcoForum.com
General => Technical | How To => Topic started by: boo on December 27, 2014, 08:54:28 PM
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The shop where I bought my GT overtightened, and or used Loctite on my variator nut. They replaced a leaking oil seal under warranty.
Some time back I tried to loosen it so I could try some Dr Pulley sliders.
Long story short, I could not get the nut loose.
Have since picked up a two foot long cheater bar to use over my power bar.
Here is my question: Will it hurt anything if I use a propane torch to heat the nut and hopefully break the seal to remove the variator nut?.
I suspect they used Red Loctite.
Have about 8,800 miles now and plan to replace air filter, drive belt, new variator nut, and install Dr Pulley sliders at 12,000 miles.
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The torch will be fine IF you heat it just past hand hot. You only want to melt the compound, and avoid softening the crank end.
I would do it but I would also hold out for an impact driver. I swore we didn't need them but I have long since changed my mind.
Worse comes to worse... A new crank, and gasket set is under 50 bucks on Ebay.
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+2 on the impact gun. It's the way MEN take apart the variator. You can get a cheap harbor freight electric. I spent $300 on a SnapOn about 8 years ago and it's still going strong.
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an electric and air impact wrench and nut would not budge.
It is a tight son of a bitch.
Guess I will try heat first. If that doesn't work i'll cut it off with a Dremel tool.
Really, really do not want to damage my crank threads.
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Lefty loosey.righty tighty.
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Take it back to the shop and tell them they messed it up, better to do this than F*** up your crank. Let them do that lol.
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I'm surprised an impact that could not budge the nut, didn't shear off the threaded end of the crank.
Maybe B&L is right in suggesting you run it by that shop. It's a coin flip now as to weather the not will come off with/without the end of the crank.
If that coin lands on edge, everything will be fine. 99.999:1 shot.
If it is red LokTite tho, the heat will melt it well below 300* f. edit that... I just found this...
"Here it is from the horses mouth. The Loctite corp..
Q: How can I remove a fastener that is "permanently" locked in?
A: The application of heat is needed to remove a fastener that can't be removed with a hand tool. Temperatures of 325F and above is needed to break down a standard anaerobic, 500F for high temperature Anaerobics. A heat gun or propane torch is commonly used to do this process, and careful disassembly should occur while parts are still hot. Once apart, and cooled, use methylene chloride (Chisel #79040) to remove cured excess material. Always wipe down the fasteners with clean up solvent to remove the wax film that Chisel leaves on the surface."
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This may be a dumb question, but you are trying to take it off counter clockwise right? Just checking..... I've never had a nut with red loc tite be That Hard to get off .
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Dude... It'll snap a 1/2" bolt w/ no problem. I've used it on crank bearing caps for decades, and it always requires heat to get the nuts off.
That crank shaft end is just 2mm over 1/2"
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This may be a dumb question, but you are trying to take it off counter clockwise right? Just checking..... I've never had a nut with red loc tite be That Hard to get off .
Yes, counter clockwise.
I was a mechanical trouble shooter/line tech in a factory for years. I have never seen a small nut this tight. The shop must have added Red Loctite and held an impact wrench on it for five minutes.
When I get the old nut off, I think I will use Blue Loctite and proper torque on the new nut.
Don't want to go through this again.
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Fingers crossed!!!
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Yep, fingers crossed...my like had a factory crazy tight nut when I put Dr Pulley sliders in.....actually find factory tightened fastenwrs crazy tight on my Kymco and HONDA.
Agree with using new nuts.....very cheap insurance! Always use new ones.
Stig
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Just tried to pull the variator nut off my super8 (only 65 miles on the clock), 250 ft-lb impact wouldn't do it without a torch on the nut first....
...and three seconds with the torch virtually destroyed the adjacent plastic air vane.... where do I get a new one of those? LOL
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YTou can buy one from B&L ( i think) or from Kymco Parts Monster . Com
OR just toss it. I ride lots of bikes where it has been trashed long ago.
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What are you referring to? I can't picture what it would be. The fan on the variator?
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As time has gone by, the comments here by experts, and my discoveries inside the transmission of my "only has 60 miles on it" two-stroke Super8 convince me that I was hosed by the seller. The variator assembly is a collection of worn out parts which according to parts manuals came off another 4-stroke scoot which has a separate plastic fan rather than the fins integrated into the metal variator face plate.
Yes, engine is definitely 2 stroke, I'm not that much a newb LOL, and bike has oil injection tank under seat as well.
Took the rear clutch apart too, found it heavily worn, and with grease on the three friction surfaces !! No wonder it wont accelerate LOLOL
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Sorry to hear someone dumped a bunch of worn parts on you.
The bright side here is all those parts can be replaced for approx 250.00 IF you go with the best parts made for your bike.
Jasil Var, Malossi rollers, and springs, Stage 6 MK II clutch, and bell.
About 1/2 that price if you set up a dealer account...
All new OEM parts will cost close to the same 150.00 retail.
I am happy to hear you are getting a grasp on what you have, and how it all works. There is always a silver lining.
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As time has gone by, the comments here by experts, and my discoveries inside the transmission of my "only has 60 miles on it" two-stroke Super8 convince me that I was hosed by the seller. The variator assembly is a collection of worn out parts which according to parts manuals came off another 4-stroke scoot which has a separate plastic fan rather than the fins integrated into the metal variator face plate.
Yes, engine is definitely 2 stroke, I'm not that much a newb LOL, and bike has oil injection tank under seat as well.
Took the rear clutch apart too, found it heavily worn, and with grease on the three friction surfaces !! No wonder it wont accelerate LOLOL
The stock Super 8 DOES have plastic fan on the variator, the same as all 50cc Kymco scooters, and gy6 50cc. It is not unheard of to have oil on the clutches in 800 miles. I wouldn't say you got ripped.
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The stock Super 8 DOES have plastic fan on the variator, the same as all 50cc Kymco scooters, and gy6 50cc. It is not unheard of to have oil on the clutches in 800 miles. I wouldn't say you got ripped.
thx, well maybe the worst "offense" the seller made was reconnecting the speedo cable just before selling me an 18 month old scoot with 60 miles on it LOL
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Went to Loctite website to learn about their products.
In particular how to remove a nut that was installed with Red Loctite.
They even have videos to help with Loctite products.
Red Loctite creates a permanent bond. It can only be broke by heating nut to slightly above 550 degrees fahrenheit using a propane torch. It said bolts can actually be broken trying to remove a Red Loctite installed nut without using heat.
After my experience, I will never use Red Loctite on a variator nut.
I will use Blue. It is made to hold but, be loosened with hand tools.
If you use Loctite products, I recommend you look at their website.
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Red is very similar to Crazy glue. I have used CG in the past when there was no Red Lok Tight around.
I bring that up because Nail Polish remover soaked into the join will soften Red but it takes awhile to soak all the way in.
One other trick that works if you can't find any sort of thread locker is to take a hammer, and wack a deformation onto the threaded end, or stand the nut on its side, and wack it to slightly "egg" shape it. Either way it will self lock, and no worries.
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I NEVER EVER EVER use any loctite on variator nuts (The small end ones, always use a dab on the large clutch nut). Never once had a variator nut spin off, notttt once.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AnZh1fgk8wk (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AnZh1fgk8wk)
I have an Ingrasolrand impact that set on the highest torque will set those nuts on there pretty damn good, I will mention that I have a really good "feel" when it comes to my impact (Had it over 6 years) and have never stripped a variator nut or crankshaft before either.
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I have had Var. nuts run off on de-accell. Two different 4t 50cc bikes actually but both of them using sliders instead of rollers.
One was mine the first few days after switching, and one, a friends the day he installed them.
A dab of Blue, and it was solved in both cases.
There were several threads here as well where a member installed a var only to have it blow off, and make a royal mess of things.
In my case I know I tightened properly BUT the teeth in the ramp plate were marginal, and in the second I have no idea what caused/allowed it to happen but like I said... A dab of blue fixed it.
Just sayin'
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The shop where I bought my GT overtightened, and or used Loctite on my variator nut.
Never mind the Locktite. Tighten with impact wrench to 40ft-lb and get on with life. It's not going to come loose.
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I've had a few blow off on de acceleration.
Tight is tight but it can, and does happen.
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Boo use a 1/2in 6pt impact socket with a 1/2in breaker bar. Smack the end of the breaker bar with a 3lb hand held sledge trying to tighten a couple of times, then try to loosen it by smacking. Keep the socket square while doing it.
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There is a much simpler way...
1. verify the correct direction to loosen.
2. remove or loosen the outer cover.
3. go to your local tire shop and remove the cover and ask one of the guys if he can blow it off for you, ply him with cash if needed.
4. Complete work in the parking lot or snug the nut and ride home.
5. Return to the tire shop to tighten the part if you feel you can't get it tight enough at home.
Alternative method:
1. make (I used my welder + rebar and cut some 1/2"? pipe for the round part) or buy a variator holder.
2. use a 1/2" breaker bar and socket and strike the breaker bar with a 3 or 4 pound hammer. It works - I used this method to remove 1-1/2" lug nuts off a dump truck using 3/4 drive socket and breaker bar with a pipe extension (aka cheater bar) and an 8 lb sledge hammer. It took and average of 4 good hits to loosen things up. It also helps to turn in the right direction - the Studs had and L stamped in them for Left Hand thread or reverse thread.
** While I love my 175 PSI air compressor and impact tools there times and places such as an outdoor "field" repair where they not available. In such cases the impact needed is delivered with a hammer.
Red Loctite should not be used. If the mfg calls for it just use Blue.
In most applications where Red Loctite is used - the expectation is that a torch will be used to heat the part to 500F prior to removal to dissolve the bond.