KymcoForum.com
General => General Discussion => Topic started by: 2wheelfun on October 06, 2014, 04:54:44 PM
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Is a full tank best or a 1/4 tank for less to sour? We're talking maybe a solid 4 months if winter is bad. Appreciate any input. Any suggestions for a stabilizer if needed? Carbed scoot, Kymco movie 150.
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Back in the day I'd add stabil or Startron to a gas can, shake and fill scoot. Take for ride.
Remove or battery tend the batt and that was it. Never an issue.
Now I pack it up and move it south.
Be Big,
AMAC
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Ideally full tank to prevent rust on a metal tank, empty on plastic. Also if you have a carb bike, for God's sake drain you float bowl!!!!!!! If you don't, you WILL have to clean the carb after 4 months. Stabil only slightly helps. If it HAD to sit with gas, fill it up with ethanol free so the gas doesn't soak moisture out of the air. The only fool proof way, drain the float bowl and don't start the bike until your ready to use it again.
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Bet thanks for your input, where I live getting real gas is impossible.
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If the scoot is in a placw were you can go out and start it up and let run for a few.thats best.because it will help keep the petcock clean a nd the carb.
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Full tank is better than part full due to condensation from temp swings.
I always fog out engines before storing them. Meaning add 10-12 ounces per gallon of either Marvel Mystery oil, or automatic transmission fluid, Rig up a fuel line to any container, and run the bike on this mixture. You will have to apply a fair amount of throttle to keep from fouling out. You only need to do this for 15-20 seconds. While it is revving/smoking like a forest fire, disconnect the fuel, and let the carb run dry.
After that cap off the exhaust, and intake with plastic bags, and do an oil change for the engine. Fresh oil will protect the internals.
Pull out the battery, and store it away from freezing temps.
I prefer Sta-Bil to all the other snake oils. Use the BLUE Sta-Bil made for ethanol fuel cause like B&L said, eth. will attract water.
In the spring pull off the bags, and install a new spark plug, and kick it over. It will smoke for 20 or so seconds but it will clear. It will run sh**ty because of the old gas so I would also suggest siphoning it out, and starting w/ fresh fuel.
This only takes 1/2 hour from start to finish but you can technically store the bike for decades this way.
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by:
Storing with a full tank of high octane gas to reduce condensation. (prefer ethenol free)
I add Sta Bil, octane booster, and GumOut carb/injectior cleaner.
Scoots/motorcycles etc. stay on battery tender through the cold/bad months.
Start and run every week or two.
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Don't start and run for a short time like some do. The temperature never gets high enough to burn off condensation.
Fill the tank (I use ethanol free) and add an overdose of Stabil and ride it for maybe 5 miles.
Attach a trickle charger, put the scoot/ motorcycle on the center stand to take weight off of the tires.
Cover the scoot with a common bed sheet or cycle cover.
When taking the scoot out of storage to start the riding season, the most important part is tire air pressure as it goes down quickly when not in use.
Sam:)
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Ride it.
Nothing like riding in a brisk day to shut up the Harley riders.
Actually with the proper precautions and being smart about things there is no reason why you can't ride year round. Unless ice is a serious issue. Never ride on ice. www.yearroundriders.com (http://www.yearroundriders.com)
Of course I live in a semi-tropical climate so what the hell do I know.
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A guy from Florida tells us to just ride all the time:)
I could when I live in Southern California but Missouri gets colder than a witches teat!
Sam:)
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I used to live in Danbury, Ct. One day I had to ride up to Rhode Island, and it was around 15* f.
By the time I got there my ign was frozen solid. I couldn't turn off the key or use any of the bar controls. (kawi LTD)
Cold is cold.
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I had my gas tank off today to replace the fuel filter with NAPA #3011 and lines. Is removing the gas tank and completely emptying it then out of the question as far as winterization goes ?
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It's overkill, the only thing that really can't have gas in it if it sits is the carb. Gas will go bad in the tank but won't damage anything unless it sits for years, and only in metal tanks.
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I used to live in Danbury, Ct. One day I had to ride up to Rhode Island, and it was around 15* f.
By the time I got there my ign was frozen solid. I couldn't turn off the key or use any of the bar controls. (kawi LTD)
Cold is cold.
If the roads are clear of snow and ice, with the proper gear and mindset there is no reason you can't ride in lower temps. The problem is not the cold itself but the wind. Protecting yourself with layers of clothing helps (I've actually ridden at freezing and slightly below freezing temps) and this can be as simple as a pair of "sweat pants" over your jeans.
Protecting you hands and feet is a little harder. Extra socks in the boots help there. If you don't have windproof gloves then a simple pair of latex gloves under your riding gloves will help. An extra layer traps the heat your body generates.
Protect the neck with a scarf, turtleneck, anything that protects it.
Remember its not the cold but the wind that is your enemy. 8) Simply don't expose your skin to it.
http://2smallerwheels.blogspot.com/2013/12/cold-weather-challenges-part-two.html (http://2smallerwheels.blogspot.com/2013/12/cold-weather-challenges-part-two.html)
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TY Just ordered a thin Balaclava from ebay in the USA for $4.
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I got a pair of neoprene muffs for the handlebars this winter. Pretty common for it to be around 35 in Portland during the winter. Plan is to use the excess heat from the radiator and drier pipes to funnel heat into the muffs.
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Nice! That's a TRUE Wordslinger fix up.
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If the roads are clear of snow and ice, with the proper gear and mindset there is no reason you can't ride in lower temps. The problem is not the cold itself but the wind.
I ride for as long as I can each year. Living in Minnesota you have to. It all depends on the Ice and snow. As soon as the roads clear up I am back to riding. Last year sucked because it was a higher then normal snowfall year. The year before there was only 3 weeks I could not ride.
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Layer up and DO get yourself a good balaclava that covers down onto your chest as well.
Actually I use two balaclavas on the coldest days. I did find that this causes my helmet pads to expand to deal with two "socks" over my head - but for $12 I bought HJC replacements helmet pads to bring the helmet snug again for summer riding. One set for winter, one for wram weather.
Supposedly my FirstGear armored mesh jacket is not suitable for winter - but I don't have an armored leather jacket so I just use several layers to stay warm under the mesh.
A windscreen would probably help me stay warm ....but I don't like them so have no plans to install one.
I keep the face shield cracked just a bit to keep from fogging - and my eyes get used to the cold in time!
Rain pants over my Slider jeans....and boots with a couple socks.
I can't go across the state, but I can ride for an hour or two on my days off, and to and fro to work if the roads are clear....The tricky bit is the stupid weatherman's forecast can catch me out while at work. A couple of times I had to ride home as it was snowing. The City Grips helped some. (that's when I start thinking 'side-car', but no....)
My fuel injected LIKE fires like a maniac on the coldest days - and its nice being air-cooled so no worries about stuff leaking or freezing. I let it warm up while I finish my coffee and work on the gloves.
It was 1 degree one morning for my ride - but the bank downtown said it was 3 - so my record is fuzzy.
You wouldn't want to miss a day like this just because it was in the teens.
(http://i57.tinypic.com/f28vo2.jpg)
More than once I stupidly got my fingers cold with the gloves off to take a picture! Spent time hugging the exhaust and belt cover - but once they're cold you gotta go home.
The Europeans probably have heated grips, gloves and vests when they head up into the Alps.
Lucky rascals.
Stig
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Layer up and DO get yourself a good balaclava that covers down onto your chest as well.
Actually I use two balaclavas on the coldest days. I did find that this causes my helmet pads to expand to deal with two "socks" over my head - but for $12 I bought HJC replacements helmet pads to bring the helmet snug again for summer riding. One set for winter, one for wram weather.
Supposedly my FirstGear armored mesh jacket is not suitable for winter - but I don't have an armored leather jacket so I just use several layers to stay warm under the mesh.
A windscreen would probably help me stay warm ....but I don't like them so have no plans to install one.
I keep the face shield cracked just a bit to keep from fogging - and my eyes get used to the cold in time!
Rain pants over my Slider jeans....and boots with a couple socks.
I can't go across the state, but I can ride for an hour or two on my days off, and to and fro to work if the roads are clear....The tricky bit is the stupid weatherman's forecast can catch me out while at work. A couple of times I had to ride home as it was snowing. The City Grips helped some. (that's when I start thinking 'side-car', but no....)
My fuel injected LIKE fires like a maniac on the coldest days - and its nice being air-cooled so no worries about stuff leaking or freezing. I let it warm up while I finish my coffee and work on the gloves.
It was 1 degree one morning for my ride - but the bank downtown said it was 3 - so my record is fuzzy.
You wouldn't want to miss a day like this just because it was in the teens.
(http://i57.tinypic.com/f28vo2.jpg)
More than once I stupidly got my fingers cold with the gloves off to take a picture! Spent time hugging the exhaust and belt cover - but once they're cold you gotta go home.
The Europeans probably have heated grips, gloves and vests when they head up into the Alps.
Lucky rascals.
Stig
I got caught at work when it started snowing last winter. Before i knew it an inch or two built up, really uncommon for Portland. My Michelin pilot pures got me home better than i would have imagined, dropped the psi to about 5. Traffic was NUTS because everyone else in the entire city got let off work early, and snow was coming down hard so it grid locked. Long story short, my hands even in very thick winter ski gloves got to the point of feeling like frostbite setting in. The traffic was dead stopped on a 5 mile stretch normally taking 10 or so minutes to get home. I ended up lane splitting, both feet down for about 4 of those miles to avoid frostbite. If i would have sat in traffic i suspect it would have taken me an hour or more to get home. Even though it was highly sketchy, i couldn't help but smiling passing EVERYONE suck in a major traffic jam. Later on the news they were reporting of people being stuck SEVEN HOURS on what normally would be 45-50 minute commute from work. Crazy good time once i had gotten home safe and sound. If there is any indication of snow this year, I'll pack the large zip ties to make "chains".
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You're KEY point was in dropping the tire pressure. i hope others realize how much of an effect that does have.
Same trick for loose sand/dirt/gravel. It might save your butt one day.
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Love the idea of using zip ties for better traction. Great idea - going to put some under my seat soon.