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Scooters - 125 to 300 => People 250 => Topic started by: hypophthalmus on July 12, 2014, 06:09:20 PM
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I've got the exhaust lined up with the engine, but it needs to go towards the rear wheel in order to line up with the rear fork. Is there some trick to this?
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Yes there is, and I'm happy to see you ask.
The best way to do this is loosen the rear brace/keep the exhaust loose.
Start inserting all the nuts/bolts one at a time while keeping everything loose.
Sort of sneak up on tightening it all down in any order. Hand tighten everything using just hand strength. Once you have all the hardware in place go to the engine mount on the pipe, and 1/2 way torque those down. That will 1/2 seat the gasket, and make sure the pipe is aligned. 1/2 tighten all the rest, and then go back to the engine side. Tighten the flange to spec, and then go to all the rest, and tighten them down.
This same method applies to every part on the bike. Aligning everything is 90% of the process. Tightening is the very last thing you do. (beside admiring your work w/ a beer).
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That's actually what I tried. But I can't get it aligned well enough that all the bolts will go in. In fact, it seems I have to choose between the fork bolts being able to go in, or the exhaust being around the studs at the engine.
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My best guess is that the exhaust pipe warped. Is that a thing?
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Yeah they can "warp" or twist from heat or being dropped. I have had a few that needed to be "tweaked".
If you do have to bend anything stay away from all the welds. They will be more brittle than the rest of the pipe, and easily crack.
The important part is the engine flange seal. Worry about that the most.
Sometimes a Phillips screwdriver inserted into the mounting hole/bolt hole will give you enough leverage to move things into position.
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I considered levering it like that, but I'm scared of screwing up the threads or breaking off the studs and causing more problems for myself that way.
I tried taking off the littler heat shield to see if it would provide more give, but when I turned the bolt there it tore out a hole because of corrosion. I seem to be having a bout of bad luck.
How do you bend the pipes?
Do you know anything about these http://tinyurl.com/kpuyq8s (http://tinyurl.com/kpuyq8s) ? They're the only non-OEM exhausts I can find for sale. Being stainless, I'd expect it to not get corroded, although maybe it'd be louder?
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Hoca is one of the cheap China brands.
That said I have had good luck w/ these type pipes. The only issue w/ that specific pipe is you will have to fabricate a way to mount those muffler straps. They are not going to line up w/ any factory mounting holes.
Just how far off are your mounting holes? Can you post a Pict of what is going on?
You should not have to bend anything that much. Are you talking about a half a hole off? More?
The only correct way to bend it is w/ heat. Cherry red, and it will bend like butter. It shouldn't be that far out tho.
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I was wondering how it was going to attach. Can you recommend any others? Are there even any others to recommend?
About half a hole off sounds right. It also seems like the lower right mounting hole is backed away from the fork a bit when the other two are flush, but maybe not enough to worry.
I can take a picture tomorrow when there's light.
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I'd use a Phillips to pull it together. You might ding a thread but it's never a big deal. 1/2 a hole is what we all struggle with. ( guess where the joke is there)
I looked around some, and that Hoca is the only one that I see as well. '
Hopefully someone else may know of one.
Do you have the FI bike or the older Carbed bike?
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Every 250 does this, easier way is to have a friend help you pull back really hard then start the large 14mm bolt. What I do: Turn impact gun to high, let pre torque do the thread finding. Warning this can cross thread if you aren't used to doing it this way. Also what I found, again start with the large 14mm use a screwdriver in on of the front two holes pry it until you can get the large bolt in and that will most likely align it well enough to get the other two. Once you have the 3 finger tight, torque down the header studs. You always want to tighten those first, than follow with the hanger bolts. You'll get it, bit it is a bi$%*.
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I went ahead and tried your suggestion to pry with the screwdriver, and... it worked! And once it lined up, the bolts went in pretty easily.
On the down side, my torque wrench failed to click for one of the bolts again, and... snap. Since I didn't have any problem with other similar sized bolts at similar torque values, I figured it must be fine. And it clicked for the other two. At least this one is easy to drill out.
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Yeah bolts like that I never use a torque wrench, only things I torque is the head nuts. Plus if the wrench isn't right, well that happens lol. Learn try trust your hands with a 3\8 ratchet, or get a high quality torque wrench. Glad my pry method worked for ya haha
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Torque wrenches are like a boss. Always wrong! ;)
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Lol that's a classic one! Except if you go for like a $600 Snap-on, those are awesome.
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It's a China crap gadget in a stainless housing. Last one I had went 20lbs off every time I used it. I fought for three months to return it, and was finally given "credit" 325.00. Most of Snap on's stuff is China made now.
I switched to Mac tools 7-8 years ago, and never looked back. Even traded my box for a Mac.
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I was using the 1/2" torin wrench from Walmart.
It turns out I was doing everything wrong with it though. They're only accurate for the upper range (this one goes up to 150 foot pounds), you're supposed to keep them loose when you're not using them, not supposed to loosen things with them.
My hands were telling me it was too tight, but it clicked for the other bolts of the same size so I decided to trust it against my better judgment (again). I suppose I should probably redo the other bolts too.
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Yeah. I'd actually give some thought to replacing all the smaller ones. There is a good chance they will all pop off when you hit the first bump in the road. Like Forest Gumps leg braces.
I give ya credit for trying...
I'd return the wrench too. Unless you want to take your car apart.
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1\2" I'd to big for everything but the rear axle nut. And yeah your right, it ruins then to leave the adjuster tight. Like I said, only use them for head bolts everything else is an educated guess.
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Spell check... EDJUMACKATED. The mind is a terrible thing.
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Does anybody know how hot the exhaust pipe gets?
I'm trying to decide if I can use this to fill the small hole: http://www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-highheat/ (http://www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-highheat/)
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Just drill it slightly larger, get a longer bolt and nut and send it through. The swing arm is aluminum and really easy to drill larger. That's what I do. Bad luck using JB weld or ANYTHING on exhaust stuff, all it seems to do is smoke nice tasty toxic junk then go melt away.
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I'm not talking about mounting anything to the swingarm anymore. When I took the heat protector off the exhaust, it tore off because of corrosion and left a hole. I've heard of people using bolts to patch the holes, but I'd rather try something else first.
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The header pipe can get up to 1400*f Hot enough to melt the piston. Normal running 1s around 8-900*f. So the muffler section will be anywhere from that down. Generally 5-600 at the front and 2-400 at the rear.
I have never found a reliable or long term way to patch that thin sheet metal other than brazing over the hole or replacing the pipe.
I have about a dozen pipes that have cracks or holes waiting for the "miracle cure" to come along
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That's a shame. I hate to have to pay $200 for another exhaust that's going to corrode the same way.
I did find one other company that makes exhausts for the People 250. It mentions the 2005 model specifically, but I'm assuming there's no difference between that and the 2007.
It seems to also be made out of plain steel, so I'm not sure there's anything compelling about getting it.
http://www.giannelli.com/eng/prodotti/linea.asp?ID=44 (http://www.giannelli.com/eng/prodotti/linea.asp?ID=44)
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I'm not a fan of that one. The mounting flange (Engine) is too old school for my taste.
I do like the first type you posted... The Hoca. If your gonna go for a new pipe.
Issues there are the mounting straps, and you will have to re jet for that pipe. One up on the pilot jet, and 1-5 up on the main.
It is alot louder to but they are no where near absurdly loud. Maybe you can find a local muffler shop to braze over your hole for a few bucks to buy some time. (The mufflers hole)
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Does the Giannelli have anything going for it over the OEM exhaust? What the problem with the mounting flange?
The Hoca is the nicest looking of the three, but noise is another thing I'd like to avoid.
That's a good idea about patching it at a muffler shop.
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I THINK the Gianelli is just another China pipe w/ a ginny name. The header flange is one of those slip joint pieces that sort of crimps a flare at the end into the gasket. Problem is they are relying on the thin wall tubing to make the seal, and distortion/leaks are common after some time. I think you would be better off OEM.
You could always measure your pipe, and get something like a Yoshi slip on muffler but again you will need to fabricate some method to attach the support straps.
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Little pricey, but LeoVince makes a high quality exhaust for the People 250. Also Look at my pictures I've posted, I got a used Yoshimura RS-3 and a header made for a different 250 muffler, welded it up and BOOM, best sounding 250 exhaust I've ever heard. All in all, i think I paid $80 for the Yoshi, $50 for the header and like $40 to get it mig welded. It's very open compered to most of the exhausts made for the 250 engine are sill pea shooters.
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I've heard of a Leo Vince for the People S 250 (don't know if it would fit the People 250 or not), but as far as I can tell they don't make it anymore.
I found somebody who said he'll braze it for $30, so I think I'll go that route for now.
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Well, that's done and the exhaust is reinstalled. It's nice and quiet again.
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Nice. How dramatic was all that. Wait till you have to change the head light bulb... Whoooo Boy!