KymcoForum.com
General => Technical | How To => Topic started by: drew on July 06, 2014, 12:16:29 PM
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I've been riding around on my kymco agility 50 for the past few days, and I dread going up hills purely because I go very very slow up them. Down hill and straight roads are no problem but going up them is embarrassing to say the least.
I also have a top box on my moped so does that effect the speed in any way?
Is there anyway to increase the speed going up hills? I'm going to a moped garage in two days time (tuesday) to have a few things fixed but is there anything I should mention to him in particular, or too look at anything?
What can be done to improve it :-[
p.s its an 2010 Agility 50 4 Stroke,
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There is mods that can be done like a BBK, different contra spring, trying different size rollers or sliders. You just have to try different things to tune it in for your needs, but do the mods in one area at a time that way you will know if it works better or not. If mods are done in different areas at once you won't know what helped or made it worse.
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Very good point sir.
Is this a duplicate post? It's alot easier for everyone if you keep it all on one thread. We'll all do our best to help.
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Yeah what the..... Dupe post
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The 50cc scooter is a VERY slow, low-powered machine. Nothing works like "cubic inches", i.e. a Big Bore Kit. A 4-stroke Kymco 50cc normally tops out at 28mph on flat land. With a BBK, cam, ignition, gears, and exhaust (the Kymco 50cc 4T is a Chinese gy6 engine) it will do 50mph. There's no cheap route to higher power. You can do it yourself for about $300 in parts, or simply buy a bigger scooter.
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28 restricted, 40 derestrcted.
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The main increase in power up hills would come from a stiffer contra spring because this would force you back into a lower gear, however, this has to be tuned right or you will burn your belt out in a couple hundred miles
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The main increase in power up hills would come from a stiffer contra spring because this would force you back into a lower gear, however, this has to be tuned right or you will burn your belt out in a couple hundred miles
Could you please elaborate or point to appropriate thread for what tuning needs to be done? From what I've read, most people simply install the heavier spring and lighter roller weights.
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Could you please elaborate or point to appropriate thread for what tuning needs to be done? From what I've read, most people simply install the heavier spring and lighter roller weights.
Drew, what is your speed on the flats?
Just understand some people with good performance here are in Florida or NC that really doesn't have many steep hills. I get 40 MPH on the flats and my scooter does well over rolling hills and uphill grades with purple torque spring and lighter DR Pulley sliders; but once I hit a steep hill, I get 27 MPH. I don't think any 50 cc scoot does well up steep hills like we have in the North Eastern States that were carved out by the glaciation 26,000 years ago.
Why dont you give the Malossi Purple Torque spring a try with 7 gm DR Pulley sliders. Its all trial and error and gets costly but thats what others have had to do.
What scooter do you have and what mods have you done to it?
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Why dont you give the Malossi Purple Torque spring a try with 7 gm DR Pulley sliders. Its all trial and error and gets costly but thats what others have had to do.
I actually already have bought a 1000 spring and Dr Pulleys -still need to install. Just saw that comment about tuning it right or your belt will tear up and wanted to know what tuning he was talking about. Again, all the posts I've read say you can just install the spring/sliders without other mods or tuning. Or he is just saying if you don't have the right spring weight and sliders for your bike that it will tear up?
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I actually already have bought a 1000 spring and Dr Pulleys -still need to install. Just saw that comment about tuning it right or your belt will tear up and wanted to know what tuning he was talking about. Again, all the posts I've read say you can just install the spring/sliders without other mods or tuning. Or he is just saying if you don't have the right spring weight and sliders for your bike that it will tear up?
Im not an expert but I believe the rollers and torque spring counteract each other, if they get out of balance, the belt then suffers. I believe there is a sweet spot with the right weights and spring where that maximizes belt life for a given satisfactory performance for certain riding conditions - racing, flats, smooth hills, steep hills, city driving.
This is an old and duplicate thread, how'd it go Drew ?
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Have you measured your drive belt for wear?
Service limit is 16.5mm (width)
The belt will last 15k miles but really needs to be changed every 5k
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Not a problem. There are some good performance upgrades for this engine, I have a B&W250 with the MRP 300cc kit and some other goodies. If your looking to keep the mods light, Naraku makes a really good camshaft. Also the Dr. Pulley variator improves acceleration. The service manual will cover every thing you need no matter what bike it's for, as far as the engine goes. The carbs on all the bikes are slightly different though. Also I'll have to check but I think the belts are different, gv and b&w are the same but the x250 might be longer.
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What about an Agility 125 with 50 stickers on it? :)