KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 50cc => Like 50 2T => Topic started by: Berzerker1965 on June 23, 2014, 01:35:48 AM
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Just bought my 2013 Like 50. Had a Honda CH80. The missing 30 cc is killing me. I ride with 2 people a lot and want to get a big bore kit. I've read all the posts here and learned tons. Thanks guys. Any way I'm breaking in the scooter now. 90 miles so far. Ride for 10 miles stop and let the engine cool and ride another 10 miles. I would like to the upgrade all at once. I'd like to keep the exhaust and not pre-mix oil if possible, I'm lazy. I figure big bore kit and new carberater. Change clutch spring to 1500, but open for suggestions on anything and everything. The scooter handles great any has plenty of room for my plus 1. Just looking for more power.
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If you want to keep the factory pipe you need a low rpm BBK.
Malossi sport 70cc is a good choice. 19mm Delorto carb w/ a handful of jets... Polini Variator, and Polini Clutch kit. 1500 spring is ok but at 200 lbs I find the 2000 or full race springs work better
This will get you 55MPH flat, and a steady cruise of 50.
Call Louie at SPI, and set up a dealer account. I imagine the whole deal is under 300.00
http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=11581.0 (http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=11581.0)
When you get your kit post up, and I will help you get it prepped for install.
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I have a like 50 2t with the 70cc kit. The BBK does make having 2 people on the bike alot easier. 2nd zombie. You should be able to find me 70cc build thread under the technical section.
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If you plan on keeping the stock exhaust make sure you de-restrict it, I made a good write up for that one. The restricted exhaust will kill the power on the 70cc kit. Also for two up riding I highly suggest maxing up your rear tire pressure 45psi it so, any drag you can get rid of on a 50cc gets results!!!
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Thanks about the tire pressure I'm about 210 & she's about 98lbs. I read your post about the exhaust. Not to sure if I want to go that far. If anything I will go with a new exhaust.
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I've just broke 100 miles! Went out to get dinner, any excuse to ride. Lol. Quick question. Should I continue the break in and finish, before I mod or go ahead and mod it and start the break in anew? I'm replacing a lot of parts that require break in.
Once again l would like to say thank you.
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Break in starts new. It's good to have the bike test driven, and proven before changing the cylinder but you have to go thru the same all over again if you want the BBK to last, and develop full power w/ no blow by on the rings.
De- restricting the OEM pipe is as easy as knocking out a washer in the end of the pipe. You really don't have to do anything else.
There is a book in the Kymco Links section... actually 2 books. Grahm Bells 2t tuning, and another 2t tunning book ( i forgot the name).
http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_jsonp_14035800650549&key=bcfea0fd476a8a822a6a6ba786ff02e1&libId=c36b6059-fb34-40c2-b82a-70dc2ef64660&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kymcoforum.com%2Findex.php%3Ftopic%3D495.15&v=1&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.scribd.com%2Fdoc%2F18032572%2FKymco-Agility-125-R16-%253Cbr%2520%2F%253E%253Cbr%2520%2F%253E%5Burl%3Dhttp%3A%2F%2Fedj.net%2F2stroke%2Fjennings%2F&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kymcoforum.com%2Findex.php%3Fboard%3D1.0&title=Kymco%20Links&txt=http%3A%2F%2Fedj.net%2F2stroke%2Fjennings%2F (http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_jsonp_14035800650549&key=bcfea0fd476a8a822a6a6ba786ff02e1&libId=c36b6059-fb34-40c2-b82a-70dc2ef64660&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kymcoforum.com%2Findex.php%3Ftopic%3D495.15&v=1&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.scribd.com%2Fdoc%2F18032572%2FKymco-Agility-125-R16-%253Cbr%2520%2F%253E%253Cbr%2520%2F%253E%5Burl%3Dhttp%3A%2F%2Fedj.net%2F2stroke%2Fjennings%2F&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kymcoforum.com%2Findex.php%3Fboard%3D1.0&title=Kymco%20Links&txt=http%3A%2F%2Fedj.net%2F2stroke%2Fjennings%2F)
http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_jsonp_140358008985410&key=bcfea0fd476a8a822a6a6ba786ff02e1&libId=c36b6059-fb34-40c2-b82a-70dc2ef64660&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kymcoforum.com%2Findex.php%3Ftopic%3D495.15&v=1&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.datafan.com%2FTunersHandbook%2F2-strokefiltered.html&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kymcoforum.com%2Findex.php%3Fboard%3D1.0&title=Kymco%20Links&txt=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.datafan.com%2FTunersHandbook%2F2-strokefiltered.html (http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_jsonp_140358008985410&key=bcfea0fd476a8a822a6a6ba786ff02e1&libId=c36b6059-fb34-40c2-b82a-70dc2ef64660&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kymcoforum.com%2Findex.php%3Ftopic%3D495.15&v=1&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.datafan.com%2FTunersHandbook%2F2-strokefiltered.html&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kymcoforum.com%2Findex.php%3Fboard%3D1.0&title=Kymco%20Links&txt=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.datafan.com%2FTunersHandbook%2F2-strokefiltered.html)
They both explain how important a matched pipe is to a 2t engine. The pipe actually forces a sound wave back into the exhaust port to increase compression, and deliver more unburnt fuel to the Ign charge. Simply removing the washer in the OEM pipe is a huge gain for the engine.
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The 2013 like 2t does not have a washer, they put the stupid turbulence pipe in instead. The newest batch of '14s have a washer added for more restriction. Do you have a local dealer that does strictly Kymco or is it a cycle shop that does scooters? If you don't want to fuss with welding and stuff and want a stock sounding scooter have your dealer order you a early style people 50 muffler (2006 or before) It has no cat or restriction and works awesome with a 70cc kit. It'll be about the same price as a cheap tuned pipe like the Leo zxr but without the noise if that's what your going for. It looks slightly cooler than the stock Like exhaust too. I've heard great things about the Malossi sport kid but don't like how they are cast iron, we've had great luck with the dual ring Airsal sport kits, great low-mid power. Don't expect a time machine as far as to speed without getting a tuned pipe, but you'll have great hill climb power and take off. If your doing a kit and carb you might as well get a variator to control all that power more reliably. Also what zombie said before, sign up for an account at SPI and email/call Louie to get a pretty good discount on parts, I just ordered a bunch for my zuma.
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I like all your posts B&L. It's great having a dealer mechanic here.
I have to respectfully dis-agree (I know... It's a first)
The Airsol kits suck... The thing I don't like is the plated cylinder. Every one of them that has come to my shop has had the same issue. Chipped plating around the edge of any one of the ports causing low compression.
They also appear to have different deck heights, and squish bands for the same kit.
I advocate chamfering the edges (all of them) inside a cylinder, ans same w/ the piston. I actually back bevel the bottom of the piston skirt to force cylinder wall oil up towards the bottom of the rings. Problem w/ plated cylinders is if you do chamfer it you void the warranty (if any at all) and actually create a weak spot that can/will chip off. If you Don't chamfer you will wear the rings out faster, create MORE heat, and Chip off plating.
It's a catch 22 w/ plated kits.
I live out here in the 100*f Pan handle of Florida. My Malossi sport lasted 3+ years w/ all sorts of home made pistons/heads/pipes i eventually wore the bore out to 49mm before I was done w/ it . I even ran it as a stroker for some months before I trash binned it.
I thought the Cast Iron was fine. I never had any problem related to that. It did a steady 55 cruise, and 62-64 tops in most any combination of parts. With the stock gearing it spun out @ 12K rpm but made the most power @8-9K rpm.
35 cents worth...
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Damn that's not bad at all, like I said I have only had one Malossi kit and I destroyed it due to crank issues haha. What tier of Malossi kit was that one you mentioned? Two ring I take it? I'm currently trying to find the best match for what to use on my prebug. Torque oriented build.
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Thanks for all the informion you guys are great. Helping me set up my scooter and saving me money?
I am speachless.
Here is the planned set up so far.
70 cc BBK kit
Dell Orta PHBG 19mm AS carb
?? pilot jet
96 main jet
Polini variator
Polini clutch kit
7.5 rollers
2000rpm contra spring
Stock exhaust pipe
I'm looking for hill climbing/ wind fighting power more than speed. Reliability is a factor as well.
I read the 70 BBK thread last week and I believe that it said a #96 main jet was good. Any suggestions
on the jetting would be helpful. I picked the 7.5 rollers after reading scooter Mavin's thread.
I am about 210lbs and would like a quick take off speed. I'm using the scooter for commuting, so a 35-40 mph cruising speed would be optimal.
Once again thank you. You guys are a huge help.
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I'll post pictures of what I have here at the shop, but you will want to upgrade to the old style intake manifold too, larger diameter and better oil passageway. Sounds like it'll be a nice setup. I love how this Forum people can agree to disagree, and I have never seen one "argument" on any thread here. Most other forums people rage at each other and that won't help anyone. I'm a fan of varying opinions, that's what keeps fresh info flowing, but when people just flame each other to prove themselves right that just gums up this awesome platform we call the internet.
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We sell the "old style" carb and intake setup as a kit from my shop. If you want PM me and I can get you details on how much $ and the differences between this and the new style carbs and intakes. It's a direct replacement and on a stock bike will take you from 40mph indicated to 45-50 indicated. Great combo with a kit too.
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The malossi jug I had was the cast iron "sport kit" # M.317200.
I think it is the same part number for most of the Kymco 2t's. Jetting is a guessing game so a handful of jets is mandatory. I have run everything from an 88 thru to 147 with that jug. I would get one each of 90/95/100/105/110/1115. Pick the best jet from that set, and then buy the few in between to really dial it in.
start rich, and work toward lean. Find the one that allows the bike to run, and avoid the jet size leaner. Running rich during break in actually helps. You will also want to add about one ounce of 2t oil to a full tank of fuel during the first tank of gas/breakin. Once it is broken in you can go back to jetting one or two jets down from the rich one. Steps of two this time... Not five. Say the 100 runs but is rich... Go to 98, instead of 95. You'll have a pile of leftover jets but so do all of us.
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We sell the "old style" carb and intake setup as a kit from my shop. If you want PM me and I can get you details on how much $ and the differences between this and the new style carbs and intakes. It's a direct replacement and on a stock bike will take you from 40mph indicated to 45-50 indicated.
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" I love how this Forum people can agree to disagree, and I have never seen one "argument" on any thread here. Most other forums people rage at each other and that won't help anyone. I'm a fan of varying opinions, that's what keeps fresh info flowing, but when people just flame each other to prove themselves right that just gums up this awesome platform we call the internet."
f*** off dealer trash! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
You're kind aint welcome round here! :-*
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South Park - We don't take kindly to your types in here (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ITi7lG0x0IE#ws)
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Now I'm a sad Panda. Gotta make happy again.
South Park "randy watches p0rn" (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R38CyuzJljQ#)
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Retarded Cartman (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KyRHAvfA6Eg#ws)
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President Bush -- Fool me Once (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Ux3DKxxFoM#)
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Words to live by
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I have a similar setup as the one you are describing 42 pilot 102 main on stock airbox with the airbox restriction out. TBH I think the 102 MJ is rich
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Sorry I haven't posted earlier, my birthday was Saturday when I bought the scooter, my plus one ,Rebecca, has been working until yesterday so the past two nights have been just for us. Gonna have to read,think and reply after some well deserved rest.
Thanks again!
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I've read it's better to run rich while breaking in the kit & also to add 1 oz. oil to gas to ensure it runs rich. I plan on adjusting the jets to optimum after the breaking period.
I plan on ordering parts this week-end and will post on my final part list.
Are there any special tools I will need besides a torque wrench(which I have) and the usual metric socket & wrench sets? I don't have access to a vise or work table. Just a plastic yard
table on my patio.
Thanks again!
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Think I'm gonna use Dr Pulley Sliders instead of rollers.
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Dr. Pulley all the way. Just don't order too light of sliders, they act lighter than they are usually about a gram, so if your scoot likes 7g rolls get 8g Sliders. Make sure you install them with the correct orientation too.
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Just tried calling Scooter Parts International they are closed will try again Monday.
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Best bet is to call around 1PM eastern.
To set up the cylinder you will need a dremel tool or a set of rat tail files. Pretty fine files.
You will need to chamfer off all the edges of the ports, and the skirts of the cylinder. You will also need a feeler gauge to end gap the rings, and a roll of solder to set the squish band.
A bottle of Indian Shellac is almost mandatory. That is to seal the base gasket but that is not done until the squish is set.
When you get your parts I will walk you thru all that. A DA sander will help for polishing the piston dome. The closer to a mirror you get the dome the less likely it is that carbon will build up.
Simple stuff that will help your kit last a few years vs a few minutes.
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Great idea Zombie, I read the thread about that guy who shattered his rings after he cleaned out the carbon build up. If he ported and polished he would have avoided that. Better to do it right the first time than to have a catastrophic failure. Those pictures were ugly.
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I hit 200 miles and I want to do 200 mile maintenance check up. I called the dealership and their scooter mechanic was out. I read the thread that says if I keep a good record, i can do it myself. Anyone know what the checklist is?
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First service check on 2t 50cc: Change gear oil, check tire pressure, check/change spark plug (BR8HSA), check tightness of any bolt you can reach, tire pressure, rear brake adjustment, it comes blocked from the factory but I highly suggest taking the carb out and making it so you can adjust the air screw, it makes a difference.
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I started a new topic by mistake.
I found the maintenance checklist in my manual. I bought gear oil and a syringe. I adjusted the rear brakes the 1st day. I also spotted the front brake fluid is low. My conversation equation says .12l = 4oz. I also spotted a missing bolt hole behind the air filter box. Should I be concerned? I tried to upload a photo file but the file is too large.
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Great idea Zombie, I read the thread about that guy who shattered his rings after he cleaned out the carbon build up. If he ported and polished he would have avoided that. Better to do it right the first time than to have a catastrophic failure. Those pictures were ugly.
Carbon build up comes from ONE thing... Cheap 2t oil. Fuels now are clean burning so the only thing left is the oil.
The idea of polishing the piston dome is two fold. First is to create a surface that has no peaks/valleys that hold combustion residue, and second is to allow a faster wash across the dome. The faster the wash the more complete scavenging/intake can occur.
This chart shows how the wash pattern can be read. You will notice the mound of carbon on all the pistons. If you polish the dome the carbon will not stick, and the wash pattern is still plainly visible.
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How do you remove the side panels? Is it by taking out the two large screws? Then what? Remove the floor panel and the rear mud flap? I just don't want to force anything.
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Also I'm having trouble getting to the brake master cylinder to fill up the brake fluid.
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I'd have to see it in front of me. They are all basicly the same tho. Start with the seat, and the cargo box. Once that is out the rest is follow the leader.
You will find one panel will cover the one screw you can't get to finish taking off the first panel. Just the way it's done.
Most bikes do NOT need the floor pan or belly pan removed. Just the seat stuff, and the rest. A small flashlight will help to see which way the clips go, and what covers what.
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Damn my Honda CH80 was 1 screw in the back and 1 bolt up front and the panels just popped off.
Anyway, Becca, is calling gotta go. I will tackle this in the morning. Thanks!
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The sis panel on the like is as follows. Seat out, there are two 10mm bolts on the inside of of the seat bucket area remove those. Take the track off. Take the two lower side panels off take the fender off take the spark plug access panel and battery door off. From there the whole entire ass plastics port off starting in the front and lift up and back. Now my question is why do you want to do all of this? LOL
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Also I'm having trouble getting to the brake master cylinder to fill up the brake fluid.
The master can be a pain sometimes. It's easiest to open the bleeder, and fill cap to let it gravity bleed/fill. You may have to squeeze the lever in several dozen times to get the air to bubble out the top but once that begins you can close the bleeder, and slowly fill/squeeze until the bubbles stop.
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The sis panel on the like is as follows. Seat out, there are two 10mm bolts on the inside of of the seat bucket area remove those. Take the track off. Take the two lower side panels off take the fender off take the spark plug access panel and battery door off. From there the whole entire ass plastics port off starting in the front and lift up and back. Now my question is why do you want to do all of this? LOL
Masochist!
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The reason for taking the scooter panels off is as follows.
1) I'm doing the 200 mile maintenance checklist, checking the plug etc...
2) Just want to take a good look at the engine an carb.
I drained the gear oil. Let drain for 5 minutes after it stopped dripping.
Am now using a syringe to fill it up. While filling it up some drops were coming out of the
Fill hole enough for me to put the brakes under it to catch it and 're-inject with the syringe I'm using.
Is this normal or am I filling it up too much?
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Used conversation .12 liter = 4 oz.
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Yeah its normal for a little to dribble out. 120cc is right, not sure about 4oz
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Thanks, the conversion is right, maybe I should put a small block under the left leg of the stand. My patio is probably on a slight angle for drainage.
I just don't want to force it in and over fill it.
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Worst thing that can happen is it will drip out of the vent hole if you over fill.
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Thanks again B& L.
Put a block under the left leg of the stand and was able to get most of the oil in.
Only small amount of oil was left in the beaker. Is it OK if the oil is a tiny bit short?
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Yeah, it's not an exact science the oil just sloshes around in there lol
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FYI the service manual at cyclepedia for the Like50 is pretty amazing
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The cyclepedia manuals are actually what Kymco gives us access to at the dealership. They switched to them about a year ago, cyclepedia is based out of North Carolina and kymco just drives a scooter over there and they tear it down!!! Small world, I still prefer the green book actually in my hand though
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Whats the green book?
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Same thing as the red or yellow book. Only greener.
Kind of a blend of the blue, and yellow books actually.
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Lol all the old paperback kymco manuals are green
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Still playing phone tag with SPI. Will keep trying. Looking forward to ordering my parts.
Thanks for the information on the manual. Should come in real handy.
Wil keep you guys updated.
At lunch now. Gotta go.
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Still playing phone tag with Louie. I do have a question regarding to nomenclature for the Like.
Like 50 2T
KE-10AA
Is it he horizontal or upright engine? What is the engine designation? And what other models (example people 50) signify the same engine/transmission parts?
I just want to make absolutely sure I'm ordering the right parts.
As always thank you.
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All the3 Kymco 50cc bikes will swap CVT parts except the ZX variator drive boss.
Your engine is a horizontal. That means the cylinder is horizontal.
You can go to Any Kymco web site that has the micro Fiche or parts break down, and see exactly what engines are in what bikes, and what pipes/ cylinders will swap. I THINK they all swap parts except the S9, and the ZX 50 which are no longer made.
Everyone has to keep in mind SPI is a store/bike building shop/on line shop. The guy builds bikes for a living. He can not answer every phone call that comes in.
You can set up your account with any of the girls that answer the phone, and come here for advice on the parts.
Once your account is set up the web site will show the dealer prices.The only issue I have ever had w/ SPI is MOST of what he has access to is not updated on the web site. those special items or no longer in production bikes will require patience in getting hold of him to see what he has.
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Zombie had it right, for your bike ANY kymco 2t except the zx50 and super 8 liquid cooled share all cylinders. Ie if you find a kit you like fit the people 50 it'll fit your bike.
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Thanks for the info on compatibility. I'll keep trying.
I'm at 344 miles on the scooter so far. Been thinking about redistricting the variator bushing.
Should I wait for 500 miles. Or go for it.
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I used to believe in beat it up break in but have since gone to treat it like a baby break in. In most cases 100 miles is sufficient.
I'd say go for it.
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Driving with it restricted will actually be harder on the bike because it revs out at 30 with the smooth boss you can cruise at 40 with lower rpm. Breaking in a two stroke is all about rpm and load, keep both low and it'll break in just fine. And Ps your gauge is in km, so IDE wait until alot 500-600 before calling it totally broken in.
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Stupid Chinese numbers. Why don't they use real numbers like us!
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I'm on the "who don't we join the rest of the world and use their numbers" boat lol. I love metric, easy conversions and no silly fractions.
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I know... I'm actually slamming the US for the imposable system we use. I remember the big "conversion" we went thru in the '60's. Never happened.
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Signed up for cyclepedia. Thanks for the reference. It will come in handy.
Sucks about the odometer being in Km. But oh well.
What kind of tool can I use to hold the drive pulley so I can loosen the nut a tighten it with out
damaging anything?
It's a 14 mm nut right?
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Electric impact wrench 3/8 size. Works perfect and I've never stripped anything. I went for SnapOn one and have been using /abusing it for like 7 years now. I wouldn't fuss with the clutch pulley holder, impact works great once you get used to how tight to go. You cash get decent craftsman ones at sears for like $100 with lithium batteries. Useful for everything on your scoot, seat bolts, doing tires list goes on.
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Harbor freight has the 49.00 plug in the wall one. I would rather a cordless but such is life.
You can hold the bell w/ a strap wrench or jam the starter gear on the variator pulley half if you want to avoid an impact but it is hard as hell to break those nuts loose the first time. You will also need a tube of Blue Lok Tite to reinstall the nuts. They do come loose if you do not use it.
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Good to know about the Blue lol tite. I didn't think of that. However, I didn't get that far. I couldn't get the CVT cover off. Took out the 10 bolts easily, but the cover got stuck between the frame and the housing. Right where the 2nd bolt clockwise from the CVT vent hose was. I didn't want to force it. So I
bolted everything up tiight. And here I am.
Cyclepedia shows the entire engine seperate from the scooter. Is there a trick to it, or do I have to dismantle the scooter further?
Disappointed and tired. Gonna go see Becca.
Thanks again for all your help.
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When you have all the bolts out bang the kick start with your hand a few times and the cover will pop off. You have to wiggle it a little sometime, the dowel pins gets stuck. If all else fails it is ok to gently pry with a flathead. Don't bother doing again unless you have an impact ready tho.
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If you have to you can remove to lower rear shock mounting bolt. That will allow you to lift the frame clear of the cover.
Careful tho. It will also allow the frame to fall on top of the engine. The only two bolts that hold the engine in the frame are that shock bolt, and a long bolt that passes thru the bottom of the engine near the kick stand.
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Just got back from Becca's. Feeling much better.
I did buy a Craftsman electric impact wrench so I am set there. Will give it another shot when I have the time. To be continued......
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good deal.
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Looking at the Silent Pro exhaust pipe and is says it needs to be derestricted to get more power. Two spot welds near the manifold flange and a small pipe in the silencer body. Is this a difficult mod?
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Easy as pie. A dremel tool will cut off the tack welds, and the washer will twist out. Same for the pipe in the back. It is just tack welded so you just cut thru the weld, and the pipe drops out.
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Sounds almost too easy. Well I ordered the exhaust from Racing Planet. $128.00 seemed a fair price.
Still no luck with SPI. Gonna keep trying but I am getting antsy. So use the dremel tool and make a few cuts. No welding, right?
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Tomorrow I am going to put in the derestricted variator bushing. So far I've been running rich.
The bushing came with a jet. Do I have to put that in or can I wait until I put on the new exhaust and rejet then?
As always thanks.
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No welding is correct. You can put in the larger jet now, and do some plug chops once you get the new pipe on. You will need at least 2 NEW spark plugs to be sure you are jetted right.
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Okay, I'll pick up some plugs tomorrow,but what is a plug chop?
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Doing the variator bushing now. When I button it all up besides using lok tite on the bushing nut should I use it on the cover bolts?
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Derestricted bushing is in. Am hearing a light tinkling noise. Sounds like the starter gear is just a tiny bit engaged. Any ideas?
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Okay, I'll pick up some plugs tomorrow,but what is a plug chop?
http://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Plug_chop (http://www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/Plug_chop)
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Doing the variator bushing now. When I button it all up besides using lok tite on the bushing nut should I use it on the cover bolts?
No!
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Derestricted bushing is in. Am hearing a light tinkling noise. Sounds like the starter gear is just a tiny bit engaged. Any ideas?
Take it apart, and do it again. The drive boss sits on the ramp plate. The drive face sits on the outside. (i know DUH) When you tighten the nut you MUST rotate the drive face to allow the belt to slightly climb up, and allow the drive face to sit flush, and square on the boss.
There is also a very thin shim washer that goes on the OUTSIDE pin of the starter bendix between the cvt cover, and the bendix. My GUESS is it fell off during the cover removal. If you can't find it on the ground look inside the cvt It may be laying in the case there somewhere. Otherwise you have to order one from Kymco. It's about 90 cents, and $73.47 shipping. (lol)
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Running up your post tally eh...
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You'll
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Never
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catch
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me
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Bro
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!
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Thanks for the plug chop link. I'll tear down the cvt sat am & tale a look.
Also made contact with Louie! he's a really nice guy.
Parts on the way!
70cc Molossi BBK (SPI)
Molossi Variator & spring (SPI)
Technigas Silent pro exhaust(Racing Planet)
Pockets to shallow for the carborator at this time.
Thinking of waiting 'til I get the carb so I can do as much prep work as possible.
Then bolt it all on at once. Trying to keep my downtime as short as possible.
Reached 450 miles today.
The odometer on a 2013 Like 50 2t is in miles not km.
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Cool Deal Bro!
Yu did set up a Dealer account right!
When you get the BBK in I will help you get it preped for install. There are a few minor tweaks that make all the difference. 60MPH here you come!
NEW! TUTORIAL - 2 Stroke scooter Cylinder porting [New Technology 2013] (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mv8uRm5H-Sc#)
Just kidding. Dont do that
This is what needs to be done...
How to champher ports on two-stoke cylinders after boring-2 stroke port champhering motocross (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p8B_G5iXa6A#ws)
You don't need all the fancy tools. It can be done w/ files if needed. The idea is to remove all the sharp edges.
There is also a little work to do on the piston skirts, and some polishing to do on the dome.
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Yes I did and I am saving bundles of money. Thanks again.
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Glad to hear it!
Keep us up to date. I love a happy ending to a build.
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Quick update. The exhaust has finished processing and is being shipped now. The variator and BBK kit is being processed. I'm waiting til next month to order the carberater. Just waiting to save the money up.
Special note to BandL, I will be purchasing the carberater and manifold plus the jets from you. I will take the newer carb you showed me.
Thanks for all the advice. You and the others here have been GREAT!
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Awwwww, Ssooooo cute!
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Sounds good, pm when your ready.
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Hey Guys! The BBK kit and variator arriveed last night. Gonna try and order my carb from BandL today. I just need to get a few more parts & tools and I'll be ready to begin the build.
I'll keep you all up to date. By the way what size wrench/socket do use on the large nut on the inside of the clutch? Cyclepedia just say a special clutch tool.
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Proposed Build
Malossi 70cc BBK ported & polished
Malossi 19mm Carb & manifold
Main jet 112
Pilot Jet stock
Malossi Variator
6g Rollors mayl change to 7.5 dr pulley sliders in future
White Malossi spring ?? rpm
Technigas Silent pro exhaust
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Doesnt sound too bad
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Received my Silentpro exchaust. Still waiting on the carb. Should I wait to install or can I install on the stock cylinder. Mainly, can the gasket be used twice or is it a 1 shot use and replace with a new gasket when installing the BBK kit.
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I can't say I've never reused one before, but with a new pipe, it might not line up in exactly the same way. With the new pipe, an increase in jet size would probably be required.
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Ive used all my gaskets twice with no issue. They were on only about 6 months. No gunk on em.
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Still waiting for the carb. So I haven't been posting. However the electronics stopped working.
No lights, blinkers or gas guage. I checked the fuses and they look ok, would a blown rear brake light/taillight be the problem. I was able to get running by using the kick starter.
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Sounds like a dead battery, has it been sitting?
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No I ride every it everyday. Checked the battery any way. The charge was fine 95%.
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Strange. Check the main frame ground
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What were you doing when it happened? Was it raining? Were you riding it when it happened? Had you done anything to it and then started it and discovered things weren't working? The electric start doesn't work, right? The solenoid gets it 12v supply from the brake light. A visual inspection of a fuse is not always enough. I've seen fuses go junk that still had the wire intact. Another thing to check would be the harness from the key. Maybe unplug it and check the pins and wires for damage.
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You were right it was a blown fuse. I used one of the two back up fuses and every thing was fine. I picked up three more from this dealership. I was riding in the rain. Good thing I picked up spares . I had to replace the same fuse twice now. I read elsewhere on the forum where someone having the same issue, he stated using 7.5 amp fuses and the problem stopped. I will try that if the problem continues. Thanks.
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Ok the cylynder ports have been camfered. After researching, I decided to do everything 1 step at a time starting with the BBK. Using original carb & exhaust. I am ordering keihn round jets (small) head diameter 5mm lenth 7mm thread 3.9 from JetsRus size 90 to 108. Before I order I just want to confirm with you guys that these are the right ones.
Once again thanks for all you help.
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I think they are actually 5mm thread but wait for verification.
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Sure thanks. Can anyone else confirm the dimensions of the Keihin jet dimensions? I got them at JetsRus. The directions in the cyclepedia don't show how to change the jets with out completely dismantling the entire carb. That includes taking the carb off the engine entirely. Is there an easier way?
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Sorry, you were right. The thread was 4.9mm not 3.9 I must have typoed.
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Cool. Glad you found it.
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Do I need to buy gaskete$
for every time I change the jets?
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You only need try but the carb gaskets if they tear, or expand and don't fit. I've gone years on the same float bowl gasket.