KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 50cc => Super 8 => Topic started by: Chris0381 on May 27, 2014, 08:23:59 PM
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Took a ride making sure to treat my one key left like a raw egg.
85 degrees, breezy, and slightly humid; quite cool in mesh padded jacket and helmet visor slightly parted. Have 400 miles on the odometer now. Was getting 37 MPH on the flats. Cycle seems to be quite responsive.
So far just the smooth boss and 82 jet. Can only imagine what a slight mod of some sort may bring for MPH. I hope this performance improves as I break in the engine.
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Today was 65 and cool and dry. The scooter seemed to have trouble getting past 35 MPH on the flats. Wondering if hat humid weather is more ideal for performance.
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You may just be on the verge of running lean. Try to enrich the Idle Mix screw 1/2 turn or so. You might also want to check for the correct spark plug BR8HSA I think it is. I have been running BR9HSA's for quite some time, and being a colder plug they tolerate leaner mixtures better.
Only problem is you have to order them from Poland or Japan. They are not sold in the US.
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/p2.asp?mode=nml (http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/p2.asp?mode=nml)
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TY Zombie
My idle screw is sealed but wondering if I should give upjetting form #82 a tray maybe 90 or 92 ?
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I would say 84-86 maybe 88. You can drill out the cap on the Idle Mix screw as well. That would have been the very first thing done.
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I would say 84-86 maybe 88. You can drill out the cap on the Idle Mix screw as well. That would have been the very first thing done.
I'd like to do that but could use a youtube walkthru. Read a post or 2 about people ruining their carbs trying to expose the idle screw.
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Remove the carb. Using an exacto knife try to detach as much adhesive around the cap as possible. Try to spin the cap (There is adhesive underneath it too) then use compressed air to blow it out of the housing.
Thats how I did it. Not very professional/technical but I didnt have to use a drill. You will need a D slotted adapter for the mixture screw http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CMWC4U/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CMWC4U/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
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You don't need the special screwdriver, just dremel a flathead slot in it with the cap off. I've seen fuel screws out 5 1/2 turns factory set!!! Ran horrible.
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How to Remove Carburetor Air / Fuel Screw Welch Plugs on Metric and Harley (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W6mtYqM0znI#ws)
How to remove brass cap and fuel mixture screw from motorcycle carburetor (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7tA5HojXzS0#)
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TY for the video. I'd use a very tiny bit and just force the hole open with a Stainless Steel screw. After all its only brass.
That shouldnt be too bad.
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Worst case is the collar stays in the bore, and you simply open the end. ;)
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Remove the carb. Using an exacto knife try to detach as much adhesive around the cap as possible. Try to spin the cap (There is adhesive underneath it too) then use compressed air to blow it out of the housing.
Thats how I did it. Not very professional/technical but I didnt have to use a drill. You will need a D slotted adapter for the mixture screw http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CMWC4U/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CMWC4U/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Does this adapter work on the stock 16mm Keihin carb or is this one for your 19mm that you put on your bike?
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The adapter is the same one for all bikes. You can even use a serrated steak knife to cut a slot if needed.
Start at 2 turns out from seated for your base line. Like B&L stated earlier the factory settings are all over the place, and more often than not... wrong!
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The adapter is the same one for all bikes. You can even use a serrated steak knife to cut a slot if needed.
Start at 2 turns out from seated for your base line. Like B&L stated earlier the factory settings are all over the place, and more often than not... wrong!
Thanks!