KymcoForum.com
Scooters - Big Bore => Xciting 500 => Topic started by: speedee86 on May 10, 2014, 04:19:56 AM
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Hey guys, question. Every now and then I hear a almost popping noise, hard to describe. Sounds like a hesitation in the exhaust. My air filter is rather dirty. I have a dna filter on the way to replace it. So a hesitation would make sense. And its not constant. Only sometimes and it like when i take off, if I hit it hard then it does it sometimes. I just replaced the spark plug. It was due according to the manual but the air filter I need to wait till the new one comes.
Anyway, any ideas? Odd sound, hesitation, popping grunting sound under hard acceleration. Not a back fire though. Thanks in advance
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Maybe just dirt in carb... and like you said... the filter...
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Im thinkin the air filter. Its fuel injected, maybe I need to get some injector cleaner. Has 16800 miles on it.
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Sea Foam. It works.
Double the dose on the can.
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I actually just picked some of that up yesterday. So it says 1 ounce per gallon. Its a 3.3 gallon tank so I was gonna wait till I fill up. It has about half tank right now. Should I just add some in? How much if I do?
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6.6oz to a full tank... 3.3 to a half tank. Replace the filter, and use the Sea Foam.
About once a month I use it a regular dose-age, and never have any fuel problems. When I pick up a used bike or customer repair job its the first thing that goes in the tank.
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6.6oz to a full tank... 3.3 to a half tank. Replace the filter, and use the Sea Foam.
About once a month I use it a regular dose-age, and never have any fuel problems. When I pick up a used bike or customer repair job its the first thing that goes in the tank.
Nice, I followed the dose on the bottle. I had about a half tank and added just over an ounce. I will do a regular dose when I fill up next.
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Did you replace the air filter? I would also do the Fuel filter.
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Did you replace the air filter? I would also do the Fuel filter.
i am waiting for the air filter to be shipped to me. ordered a dna air filter. i did a little sea foam as i mentioned. have checked the fuel filter, where is that at on the bike. also, i got to work and heard the noise a bit after i got off the freeway and took off from a light when i got on it a bit. when i pulled up i noticed something odd on my gpr exhaust.
so to explain, i have a gpr slipon, i removed the db killer so all that is in there is the larger diameter pipe, inset in the tip, that inner steel pipe seems to be loose so i think that may be causing the rattling sound a bit. so i put the bd killer back in with the c-clamp that fits in the slot to hold it in place, that will also push in that inner pipe and hold everything in place. we will see if i hear that sound on the ride home. that inner pipe in the muffler vibrating and rattling could have been making that sound but not sure. i will let you know my findings.
unfortunately now is will be quieter but if that was the noise then i just need to figure out how to re-adhere that pipe inside so that it doesnt rattle, or just keep the db killer in. but i love how it sounds without it.
btw, even with the small dose of sea foam i added. it already runs smoother and i seemed to gain a bit more of top end back, cant wait for my new dna filter to get here :)
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Hey Zombie, do you think Seafoam is as good as B&G? I use that in my '09.
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ok, so got my dna air filter yeasterday, installed that, filled up with gas and added 3oz of seafoam per the bottle. running good but................................ still making that friggin noise!!!!! ah!!!!! it is only under hard acceleration and under load. i tried to recreate it while it was up on the main stand and it doesnt do it. so confused. and if i do it from a stop it doesnt do it. its like if i am already moving at maybe 3000-3500 rpm and then hit it like to merge on the freeway. almost wondering if it is cvt related. i would think if it was engine related that i would be able to replicate it at the same rpm on the main stand and i cant. it is only under load. it isnt back firing, isnt running wierd. no check engine lights or anything are on. also if i dont hit it and work up to it, it wont do it really. very confusing. gonna call the shop and ask them.
also, wondering if it could be plug related still, i had taken it to my nearby shop and they said it called for a cr8e ngk plug and the manual i downloaded says cr7e. its a 2012 xciting 500ri, what do you guys run in yours? any ideas anyone has could help.
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I believe your problem is TWO fold.
First the better flowing pipe MAY be causing a lean condition at load, and higher RPM. Couple that with the #7 lug (hotter running plug), and you amplify the issue.
The #8 is a colder running plug so it may help by itself, and you might want to enrich your Idle circuit 1/4 - 1/2 a turn because that will carry over more fuel thru the entire range.
The next step would be to go up one jet size or one injector size depending on what engine you have. I think you are simply running a little lean on the top end.
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Hey Zombie, do you think Seafoam is as good as B&G? I use that in my '09.
Never tried B&G. I've used SeaFoam for 15 or so years, and know it works. Before that I tried alot of brands, and none of them work. That's why many believe SeaFoam is another "snake oil". It's not. It works.
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I believe your problem is TWO fold.
First the better flowing pipe MAY be causing a lean condition at load, and higher RPM. Couple that with the #7 lug (hotter running plug), and you amplify the issue.
The #8 is a colder running plug so it may help by itself, and you might want to enrich your Idle circuit 1/4 - 1/2 a turn because that will carry over more fuel thru the entire range.
The next step would be to go up one jet size or one injector size depending on what engine you have. I think you are simply running a little lean on the top end.
makes sense however i had encountered this issue before the pipe and it went away quickly. thats why i originally thought it was due to my dirty air filter. also, when im on the freeway already going 70mph, if i hit it, it does fine, no noise or anything. its actually quite hard to replicate. it is fuel injected and the ecu compensated for the new exhaust. all was fine and then this issue showed up receently. i would also think the O2 sensor would have thrown a light if it was running lean right? not arguing, just putting out my thoughts.
i am taking it to my shop today, gonna have them go through the 16000 mile service stuff that i havent done yet like, check the belt, clutch, valves, throttle. etc have it gone through and through.
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What you say make sense. Post up when you get it sorted.
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What you say make sense. Post up when you get it sorted.
Will do. I talked to the guys at the shop. Since it only does it under physical load we are thinking it could be drive terain related. Since I can recreate the noise when it is up on the center stand no matter how hard I rev it. They are gonna go through everything and this way all the 16000 mile service is caught up and to spec so warranty stays valid. I will keep everyone posted.
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;D :-*
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What you say make sense. Post up when you get it sorted.
going to pick up the bike after work in a couple hours. all services are done and everything looked good. they couldnt hear a noise so either it went away after all the servicing or i am over anal and am hearing something that is probably normal. wouldnt be the first time lol. i had them inspect the clutch and belt. said all looked good. bike has 16,800 miles on it with original clutch and belt. 90% of my commuting is hwy. how many miles do these clutches and belts go fo on the 500's. i have heard about clutches with 50,000 miles on them. but belts?
i will post again once i get her back and take her for a spin. see if that noise is still there.
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Ok, so..... got the beast back. She runs like a dream. So smooth. Everything checked out and needed extremely minor adjustment if any at all but all checked out. Cluth shoes are nice and thick. Belt is in great shape. Valve were slightly too tight so they put them exact to spec. Idle speed was a tad high. Got a coolant flush, brake system flush, everythingwas gone through. And they showed me picks and they had Iit all taken apart. Anyway. Seem to be running nice and smooth and better all around. And on the short ride home I wasnt abpe to hear that noise, hoping it is gone. I will know more after my commute to and from work tomorrow. Give you guys a more final verdict then.
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hopefully all is good. Did they suggest what it might have been?
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hopefully all is good. Did they suggest what it might have been?
they were thinking it was drive terrain related since it was only under load. they said they didnt hear a noise.
ok so after my ride into work this morning, i didnt really hear that noise again. maybe very very slightly but at this point i amm thinking it in my head because the bike runs amazing. very smooth, stronger, lil more power. thing just gets up and goes. only thing im gonna stop by for on the way home is i know the idle speed is supposed to be around 1300-1400rpm, and it is until it hits that last settling and it slows to around 1000-1100, when it was cold it died on me at a stop light this morning when i stopped and the idle settled that last bit so they set it just a hair low. also, i think they forgot to reconnect the under seat helmet light cause it doesnt come on when the seat is open. the dash light does, but the light itself under the seat doesnt. 2 very minor simple things that i can probably do myself very easily but i paid for them to handle it and keep service record of it and the shop is literally up the street and on my way home :)
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"they were thinking it was drive terrain related since it was only under load. they said they didnt hear a noise. "
Duh! You knew that.
For the rest... (watch this) LouisVille Slugger. Take Picts.
No... Glad to hear you are happy with it. Bottom line.
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"they were thinking it was drive terrain related since it was only under load. they said they didnt hear a noise. "
Duh! You knew that.
For the rest... (watch this) LouisVille Slugger. Take Picts.
No... Glad to hear you are happy with it. Bottom line.
Haha. Yes I am happy. I went back and the tech totally admitted to forgetting to reconnect the light bulb and did it in a snap. The idle speed they actually didnt adjust. It dropped itself after the valve adjustment. All is working well but having trouble getting the idle speed around 1400 rpm. Seems like we adjust it and then after the shutdown and start up and the revs level out, it keeps going to around 1000-1100. Maybe I need to make a bigger adjustment to the idle speed screw. They did little adjustment and we got it close but then ot dropped back down. I just did it again and it came back down to around 1100 again after a few restarts. Thoughts?
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At the risk of actually bein' stupid... I could look back in the thread but , Is it injected or carb? ( I know... read the thread dumB a__) I want to learn how to fix it as much as you do, maybe more??
Just start over from here,
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At the risk of actually bein' stupid... I could look back in the thread but , Is it injected or carb? ( I know... read the thread dumB a__) I want to learn how to fix it as much as you do, maybe more??
Just start over from here,
Lol, not a problem at all. It is a fuel injected model :)
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Thanks! 8)
What about that TPS adjust or auto tune whatever. Is there a way to clear all the codes, and do that key switch thing?
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Thanks! 8)
What about that TPS adjust or auto tune whatever. Is there a way to clear all the codes, and do that key switch thing?
Not sure what you mean. I know in a car you can disconnect the battery for I think 15 seconds or something to reset the ecu. Is that what you mean? Maybe let it tune and the computer re adjust itself?
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On EFI models: INITIALIZE!
Karl
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That's exactly what I meant.
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I may have experienced the same thing you're talking about. And this is after a new belt, variator and rollers. I was loaded for s'camping; a tent, bedroll, clothes, food and stove. Occasionally, mine would make a funny growl. It came from the variator side, most likely inside the drive train according to my ears. It was quick and low pitched, and that was all. Just a quirky noise.
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I may have experienced the same thing you're talking about. And this is after a new belt, variator and rollers. I was loaded for s'camping; a tent, bedroll, clothes, food and stove. Occasionally, mine would make a funny growl. It came from the variator side, most likely inside the drive train according to my ears. It was quick and low pitched, and that was all. Just a quirky noise.
Sounds about right.
So another question. Adjusting the idle speed on the fuel injected models. Its just the idle speed screw that you access under the seat under the carb maintenance hatch right. There is no other like computer adjusting needed? Seems like no matter how much I adjust it, the rpms after a few stop and restarts lower back down to like 1100 rpm. I am making small adjustments. Should I just keep adjusting it up till I get it? Should I check the plug to see if its fouled, even though it is new. The bike runs great, just the very occasional stall out while at a stop once the rpms drop. Ideas anyone?
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The Idle speed adjust is directly related to the Idle Air Break, and the TPS. I believe that is why you keep getting "reset". From the service manual you need to find what the idle air break is supposed to be set at, as well as the voltage reading for the TPS. It may be that just one or the other is slightly out of adjustment but both are VERY easy to set.
A feeler gauge, and a digital volt meter are all you need. (phillips screwdriver)
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Do you always use 92 octane? Sounds exactly like detonation, high load demand etc. You could have carbon deposits on the piston/ valves. Also I will say the larger engine Kymcos make sort of a grunting growling noise under hard acceleration.
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I called the shop and was talking with the guy. He mentioned that it could be related to the gpr exhaust. Before, the valves were too tight. Now they are to spec and the ecu is trying to compensate since I dont have a power commander tune. So im gonna slap the oem pipe on and see how it does tomorrow. Maybe that will give me an answer and I can go from there. There may not be enough back pressure. I could try adding the db killer back in but think I may try the oem pipe first. Give me a for sure answer.
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Maybe going back to the beginning... I wonder if the injector is not capable of supplying enough pulse width or fuel per cycle. I mean the whole thing screams "lean" in my mind. If you find swapping pipes cures it, perhaps you should look into larger injectors. They HAVE to be available cheap..
Better than getting stuck w/ a pipe you can't use.
Perhaps an email to the pipe companies tech guy.
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Maybe going back to the beginning... I wonder if the injector is not capable of supplying enough pulse width or fuel per cycle. I mean the whole thing screams "lean" in my mind. If you find swapping pipes cures it, perhaps you should look into larger injectors. They HAVE to be available cheap..
Better than getting stuck w/ a pipe you can't use.
Perhaps an email to the pipe companies tech guy.
Well, I slapped on the oem exhaust and been riding it all night. Problem seems to be solved, (knock on wood) . Running great, idle is fine and around qhere it needs to be. After speaking to the shop before hand, he had a feeling it would be the case. He is gonna look into a power commander for me. Ao on the oem pipe for the mean time but rather have it running reliably than sound cool and not be sure if it will stall at a stop or not lol.
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It all sounds about right. What is this Power Commander? It's it an add on for the computer or a reprogramming tool?
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It all sounds about right. What is this Power Commander? It's it an add on for the computer or a reprogramming tool?
I believe its an add on to the ecu for reprogramming
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http://www.powercommander.com/powercommander/ (http://www.powercommander.com/powercommander/)
Some cool stuff! I'm SURE you can nail it down now.
I went the same route w/ HPI on the Ignition side, and for 600.00 bucks I gained perhaps 10 usable MPH that I couldn't have revved into before.
Nothing like getting control of your engine
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I have the same exhaust as Speedee, however, I run it with the db killer, or street-legal baffle installed and have no problems. Not necessarily a large increase in power. It's a smoother running engine. And this exhaust weighs a lot less than oem. I mean a lot, like 10 or 12 pounds lighter. I also have a hi-flo air filter that I made using the stock filter box with Unifoam cut to size. Unifoam is used by motocross racers. No trouble with engine. Runs smooth and sweet.
Just returned from 870 mile tour, camping in the Davey Crockett National Forest. The piney woods of east Texas. Scooter performed like a dream, even when heavy loaded facing a stiff head wind that often veered to the port bow, ( left side of front).
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Livin' the dream Bongo.
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http://www.powercommander.com/powercommander/ (http://www.powercommander.com/powercommander/)
Some cool stuff! I'm SURE you can nail it down now.
I went the same route w/ HPI on the Ignition side, and for 600.00 bucks I gained perhaps 10 usable MPH that I couldn't have revved into before.
Nothing like getting control of your engine
Oh ok. Nice!
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I have the same exhaust as Speedee, however, I run it with the db killer, or street-legal baffle installed and have no problems. Not necessarily a large increase in power. It's a smoother running engine. And this exhaust weighs a lot less than oem. I mean a lot, like 10 or 12 pounds lighter. I also have a hi-flo air filter that I made using the stock filter box with Unifoam cut to size. Unifoam is used by motocross racers. No trouble with engine. Runs smooth and sweet.
Just returned from 870 mile tour, camping in the Davey Crockett National Forest. The piney woods of east Texas. Scooter performed like a dream, even when heavy loaded facing a stiff head wind that often veered to the port bow, ( left side of front).
Yeah, I tried it with the dbkiller yesterday and it did better. It runs great either way. The issue is the idle. Not enough back pressure. Was better with dbkiller. I tried to see if it would die out. Inly stalled when i posted it hard at idle. I turned on hi beams, emergency lights and the cooling fan kicked on, that dropped the revs low enough that it eventually stalled. but I rode it around stop and go and highway for a while and it did fine with the DB killer in it. I put the stock pipe back on again for now so that I can ride it around for a few days and make sure the rpm and idol is consistent before I try to run it with the DB killer again. I'm trying to avoid having to buy the tuning module. I think the electronic system for the fuel injection in my 2012 might be different or more sensitive than that of your 2007
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I went the same route w/ HPI on the Ignition side,
Zombie, will you supply some more details about that? I am always looking for more oomph in the 65 to 80 mph range, cause I tour a lot. In fact, me and Sissy Mary are running around in circles hoping to run into each other one of these days. I think our compasses are tilted at a 90degree angle.
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I bought a completely programmable ignition /charging system from HPI. http://www.hpi.be (http://www.hpi.be)
It;s the best money I spent out of thousands in my bike.
In the case of an ECU bike you need to either reprogram the OEM ECU (which is not always do-able) or a replacement ECU with appropriate software to tune injection pulse width and timing, along with the ability to install specific Ignition timing control parameters.
I'l bet w/ the right pipe you could gain 10HP with a computer. Maybe 2 seconds off an 1/8th mile.
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quick lil update. i ran the oem exhaust for a while and got the idle dialed back in. went back to the shop an had them double and tripple check it, rode it and all was consistent. then this weekend i slapped on the gpr with the db killer and "knock on wood" all is going well for the past couple days. idle is good, power is good. idle is staying around where it should and same as the oem pipe. so removing that db killer must remove way too much back pressure. which i have read of other cases where bikes ran crappy with that db killer baffle removed. glad i have some sound back. not as loud but a cleaner exhaust note.i am thinking that when we initially adjusted it for the gpr w/out the db killer, it ended up way off and the ecu kept kicking in to correct but it was too much of a difference. which makes sense to me. so getting it all dialed back in with everything stock and then putting it back on, there was much less to compensate for, espaecially with the db killer in as that restricts the outlet to pretty much the same size as the oem outlet.again "knock on wood" dont wanna jynx anything lol
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Dude... For Real?
Speaking solely for myself I was hoping you would leave the bike alone once it was running well. BUT now that you started this... Cut the top of the piston dome to clear the valves by 0.002 thou.
Have the head milled 0.047 thou first. I'll help you F' it up!
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Dude... For Real?
Speaking solely for myself I was hoping you would leave the bike alone once it was running well. BUT now that you started this... Cut the top of the piston dome to clear the valves by 0.002 thou.
Have the head milled 0.047 thou first. I'll help you F' it up!
There must be some misunderstanding... the bike is running great. No issues. The idle needed adjusting after the valves were adjusted anyway. Had some confusion, sorted it out. All is good.
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I realize that. Then the first thing you did was swap stuff up.
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I realize that. Then the first thing you did was swap stuff up.
No, ran it stock for a bit to be sure things were consistent. Then put back something I had on it before the service in the first place.
Either way your entitled to your opinion. And I thank you for your previous valuable feedback. No sense in arguing. I appologise if I came off aggressive as it was not the intention.
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WHAQT?? Just messing w/ you my Brother. Maybe not brothers but someone I respect for sure.
Serious I know that you know what you are doing... You have to see the Irony in it all too.
I've been married three times.
Just when it was all going fine...
Love ya for your tenacity Bro!
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WHAQT?? Just messing w/ you my Brother. Maybe not brothers but someone I respect for sure.
Serious I know that you know what you are doing... You have to see the Irony in it all too.
I've been married three times.
Just when it was all going fine...
Love ya for your tenacity Bro!
Lol, fo sho. I just dont like to have bad blood with anyone :)
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Strength in numbers Bro! No time for losers. (people from Jersey, and China)
Just what I heard... There's only a few of them anyway.
The Passenger - Iggy Pop and The Stooges 70's (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y4hPnZUMBwA#)
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ah!!!!!! F@$#%^*&%$&^(%&#$%. stalled on me this morning. it was right after i got off the freeway. about 28 miles straight of 65-75 mph then off and come to a stop, a random stall. fired right back up. but still.
this weekend the wife and i rode up to see her mother and it did it once at a stop, figured it was the higher elevation. yesterday and the past week its been perfect. no stalling. then this random one this morning. this morning was alot colder than it has been recently. either way im getting tired of the random bouts of unpredictablility grrrr! might just go to stock again and leave it, should have just left it at this point (should have stuck with it like zombie said) so there is a good chance i may be willing to sell it as i dont think i am going to look into a tuning module, would rather have the reliability and warranty in my pocket.
the bike runs awesome over all and its only stalled the 2 times since i got everything figured out but it shouldnt be stalling at all and never did with the oem pipe on it. im sure now that i say this, it will be back to perfect on my ride home. so confusing
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Some bikes just refuse to have anything changed. I think it is a blueprinting (spec) issue. I have had some scoots that don't react well to any type of changes no matter what you try.
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Some bikes just refuse to have anything changed. I think it is a blueprinting (spec) issue. I have had some scoots that don't react well to any type of changes no matter what you try.
yeah, I agree with what you say. I got home from work and put the factory pipe back on of course we're not surprised lOL. Anyway went on a long ride down to the coast and got dinner with my dad all was fine till it seems like when the computer adjusted the idle was falling slightly too low around nine hundred and it stalled twice. I pulled over because I had the tools with me to adjust the idle and made a minor adjustment. I did quite a bit of riding again and now I seem to have it sitting right where it's supposed to around 1400 consistently. I have started it and stopped it a good ten times by now and ridden Fast and Slow, stop lights and stop signs, and it seems to be staying consistent. I think that after the first adjustment way back, someone had mentioned that the idle screw, was for the air brake in the throttle body so I think it was out of sync and knock on wood with this minor adjustment and the stock parts on it I think I have got it where it needs to be because this is the most consistent its been since. Now the plan is to leave it alone and ride it as I should lol. I will keep you guys posted.
Ps, dont be suprised if you see a gpr slip on exhaust pop up for sale soon haha.
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update, bike is running great, rode all the way into work and all was good, then one of the stop lights... boom, one random stall. fired right back up and went on like it didnt happen. really wierd. i have one other thing im gonna try and thats is to disconnect the battery for a few minutes to reset the computer and have it re learn again with the stock pipe. once i do that later, if it stalls again, then i will take it to the dealer for warranty.
exactly how long should the battery be disconnected to reset the computer?
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It is usually a 30 second window due to storage caps that hold a tiny amount of voltage. I would GROUND the positive lead (while disconnected), and turn on the key. That will draw whatever residual power there is ff the computer.
Have you tried the throttle reset thing? key on twist the throttle deal? I would try that after clearing the computer because you have changed settings on the throttle body.
I HOPE this gets it for you.
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It is usually a 30 second window due to storage caps that hold a tiny amount of voltage. I would GROUND the positive lead (while disconnected), and turn on the key. That will draw whatever residual power there is ff the computer.
Have you tried the throttle reset thing? key on twist the throttle deal? I would try that after clearing the computer because you have changed settings on the throttle body.
I HOPE this gets it for you.
Thanks, much appreciated zombie :) no I have not tried the throttle reset... what is the procedure for that?
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It's posted on here somewhere, and it is also on youtube. I simply forget the process. I do believe it HAS to be done due to the change.
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It's posted on here somewhere, and it is also on youtube. I simply forget the process. I do believe it HAS to be done due to the change.
Hm, I been searching but cant find it.
Anyway, update.
Disconnecting the battery negative to reset the ecu didnt work. Still stalling at random stops and each stop, the idle is different so..... it is at the dealer for diagnostic and if there is something broken that shouldnt be, then warranty should cover it. We will see. Said it might be a few days but at this point im like, what ever, just fix it since my local shop and I have tried everything. Also having them look into that odd noise that this thread was originally about. This whole stalling thing happened after the valves were adjusted to proper spec since they were slightly too tight. Wondering if maybe the ecu map needs to be reloaded or reset. I am thinking it is something simple. Atleast I hope. I would think if it was mechanical, the bike would run crappy all around, and if it was electrical, it would be consistent. This stalling patern is quite random.
Oh and I guess I can rule out the exhaust being the cause since it was still stalling with the oem parts on it lol.
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You know, i have had issues like this when i first got my bike. At a stop then trying to accelerate heard, or by pulling the throttle it would die. However, after just riding it more and more, it has not reappeared.
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Update, bike still at dealer. Narrowed the issue down
They were able to replicate it, they called and spoke with kymco, kymco said they had one other instance like this. Its either the tps or the idle air bypass valve. Kymco said they had just replaced the whole throttle body to fix it so the dealer is gonna call me back today and give me an update but said he will probably put in to replace the whole throttle body. Yay for warranty. Fingers crossed all goes well. Keep you guys updated.
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I'm sure that has to get it fixed for you. Ask them to do a compression test, and a vacuum check,. There is nothing else left.
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I'm sure that has to get it fixed for you. Ask them to do a compression test, and a vacuum check,. There is nothing else left.
Im pretty sure the shop did the compression treaty with the valve adjustment. The dealer has had this thing almost a week and been going through everything. According to kymco, this will solve it since they had solved it before on another incident. Hoping so. Miss my scoot. Been fighting traffic every morning on the way to work in my car. Me no likey traffic lol
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;) ;D
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new update, kymco had them take reading of the sensor and what not, turns out the idle air bypass was not operational so it was getting stuck intermitently and causing it to stall. they are gonna get back to me today and let me know when the part will be arriving since it has to be ordered and hopefully when i should be getting my bike back. glad to have an answer. and again WOOT!!! for warranty
will update when i know more. hopefully the thread will be of use in the end just incase someone else runs into this issue.
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I just posted yesterday for someone to check their Iac for a No Start bile.
Happy to hear they are on to SOMETHING.
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Im happy my kymco has been good. Getting that kymco love back again since my tmax is in california.
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Quick update... they replaced the idle air bypass and it is still exhibiting the same random stalling issue. Ah!!! So back to square one with diagnostics. Guess they said the next step its to hook it up to the computer and take readings of everything, send to kymco and have them review it. Gosh I hope they figure this out soon. The weather is beautiful and warm, and im without a bike. Keep you all updated.
This is such a bummer.
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Buy an x500 carb and go old school lol
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I imagine you have to swap a lot more than just the carb... Stator/cdi?? All that electronic crap in the dash??
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Yeah it would be hard and lots to switch. I would check your states lemon law. Maybe get a different x500
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Yeah it would be hard and lots to switch. I would check your states lemon law. Maybe get a different x500
Yeah imma see what they say tomorrow and go from there. Not sure it applies just yet. It did cross my mind
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ok............... bike is still in the shop since the 6th. this is day 20!!! no luck with anything they have tried, they are working close with kymco and cant solve it. seriously starting to look into lemon law. lemon law states that the vehicle has to be out of service for a total of 30 days. they are working hard on it but at this point my patience is wearing extremely thin and i need to be riding. that was my main transportation to work. i have my car but man gas was cheaper on the bike and took half the time to get 30 miles to work. im starting to think they should cut their losses and just tell me to come pick out another bike.
this is insane!
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Yeah that really sucks man, do that have a Kymco ecu tool at your dealer?
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Yeah that really sucks man, do that have a Kymco ecu tool at your dealer?
Yup, they have everything. They have been plugging in and taking readings and scanning and sending info to kymco for review. They are trying for sure but nothing seems to solve it.
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update, the shop called and kymco wants them to double check the valve clearances. since the stalling only happens when it is really hot. i had the valve done at another shop. kinda a catch 22 feeling, if the valves are in spec as they should be, the there is a different problem... if they are not in spec, then i have to pay for the valve job AGAIN and then go after the other shop and hold them responsible since they adjusted them per spec as i was told.
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The valves on the X500 are VERY VERY difficult to do, four of them and in a very awkward space. High chance the other shop messed them up, how many miles on your bike?
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Spec. can be a subjective word. It depends on how much weed one smokes as to exactly what the word means.
Hot lends me to believe it could be a vapor lock issue or a bad ECU more so than valve adjustment. Did they replace the injector?
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Yeah, unless the valves are horribly off it won't kill the bike, just run poorly. This is why I am a huge advocate of carburetors. Fuel injection in theory is fine and dandy, until this happens. I hope your dealer gets it for you, some stuff on the more complex bikes can be really really hard to diagnose.
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Just a thought... Take the bike back, and ask for a fair cash settlement. Use that $$$ toward a new ECU. You can adapt the factory harness to work w/ any performance ECU on the market. Usually about a grand.
W/ some elbow grease, and your fat wallet you'd have one bad jammer.
Just saw the "Silver Lining".
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The valves on the X500 are VERY VERY difficult to do, four of them and in a very awkward space. High chance the other shop messed them up, how many miles on your bike?
hm, i know they tore it down to the frame and engine, they showed me pick. so i know it was a pain for sure. the bike has around 17,500 miles on it. the bike ran amazing minus this random stalling at a stop sometimes issue.
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Spec. can be a subjective word. It depends on how much weed one smokes as to exactly what the word means.
Hot lends me to believe it could be a vapor lock issue or a bad ECU more so than valve adjustment. Did they replace the injector?
i dont think they replaced the injector.
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i dont think they replaced the injector.
It's worth shot. It could be locking up like a bur in the solenoid
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It's worth shot. It could be locking up like a bur in the solenoid
yeah makes sense. they are taking direction directly from kymco at this point. everyone is stumped so far.
either way i just dont wanna pay for anything. i am still under factory warranty and i have an extended warranty after that.
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Just get your $$$ back and buy a NOS Tmax...
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update, still in the shop!!! almost a month now. they still have it torn down and were communicating directly with the manufacturer. yesterday kymco told them to hold off because they got another one that is exhibiting the exact same issue and the same bike. this can be good news since that one is at the manufacturer so they have the parts on hand. so they are going through everything, then gonna let the dealer know what to do. i am really hoping we are getting close. this has taken way too long and i dont want to have to deal with lemon law if i dont have to cause then i need to consult a layer.
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I think your states DMV will have all the info you need w/o a lawyer.
Just had another thought... Could be a bad/weak fuel pump or low voltage at the pump at/near idle.
Ask if they have done a fuel pressure test, and voltage test at the pump. Also a voltage test at the ECU at/near idle
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update, kymco has sent them an extensive list of peramiters to test and get back to them with. so its still in the shop. hard to be optomistic right now. missing 2 wheels like crazy. hoping and hoping and hoping and cant see any light at the end of the tunnel :(
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Well you know it will work out for you in the end. Thank God it's not a DeLorean.
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Well you know it will work out for you in the end. Thank God it's not a DeLorean.
true true lol
update update update!!! may have found the cause. after testing all the peramiters and finding nothing out of place, the tech did a leak down test on the head.................. 2 valves are not closing all the way with a 40% leakdown on one of the valves. so, my shop is putting in for a new head from the manufacturer. i should here today if it is approved and how soon they will get the parts. ah!!! i hope this cures it and that all goes smooth with warranty and all that as it should.
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SWEET! Ask them to keep the head long enough to show you. You can prove it out by inverting the head, and filling the combustion chamber w/ Brake clean. If there is ANY defect or leak it will seep thru the valve.
That's how I test them.
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Finally after what seems like an eternity, almost 2 months. I have scoot-zilla back and shes running better and stronger than ever. As mentioned the valves were faulty and they found at the end that something had got sucked up into and emissions line around the charcoal canisters that was blocking the air flow. Pretty much guaranteed that was the cause for the random choking out at a stop after a long hwy haul. But the way everything trickled down, It has a whole mew top end, throttle body, sensors, etc and all under warranty as it should be. Im just so glad to have it back and be on 2 wheels again.
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Son of a ! $!//^#*/((**#:'&^^@&$(/((#!!!!!!!
Finally got my bike back a few weeks ago after 2 months in the shop. All fixed and good and the fuel pump goes out. Completely unrelated to the previous issue but seriously!!! Was doing fine, started fine, then stopped and met my wife for dinner after work, went back out and all of a sudden the fuel pump wont prime. It clicks and get power but doesnt buzz (priming sound). So its in the shop yet again. Atleast this time we know what the problem is.