KymcoForum.com
Motorcycles => Venox 250 => Topic started by: oldspower24 on April 25, 2014, 12:55:33 AM
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just bought a 2003 venox 250 with 2,295 miles on it. It has been sitting up for a few years at a friend of mines shop so I decided to buy it. I got it to run but only when the choke is pulled out but I am getting the carbs checked out in the next few days. But my concern is that it is missing a few plastic panels they are the plastic piece that goes from the end of the gas tank to the rear fender. they cover the electrical components. is there a place that I can buy these panels. Also the front right foot peg and the key cylinder with key and matching gas cap. the key was lost in the shop move. I am excited to have another bike in my life its been a few years. I hope to get many fun rides out of it. Thank u all in advance for any help and info.
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Go to Ebay for a lock set. They are dirt cheap.
Get the plastics / OEM parts at Stadium Yamaha. 15% off for forum members
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Thank u for the help. I looked on eBay for a lock set and seen the for other kymco models but not the venox 250. And as for the side fairings I couldn't find them on stadium Yamaha website. Does anyone have the part #s for the fairings and lock set
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Hey there Oldspower.
No worries, send me your e-mail address and I'll send you a copy of the parts manual. Kymco parts monster seems to have just about everything for the Venox.
Regards, Hairy Bob.
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oldspower24@gmail.com is my email address. I was also wondering if anyone could give me any pointers on carb removal and the proper way to clean after years of setting with old gas
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hey there buddy i posted carb clean and removal a while back try to see if you can find it.
http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=6352.msg65425#msg65425 (http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=6352.msg65425#msg65425)
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Would like to say thank u to everyone who helped me out with my problems. Got the carbs off and cleaned she purrs like a cat. Thanx again
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Holy smoke Oldspower, you didn't waste any time getting that sorted out. Well done Amigo. And you have to admit, ol Max knows his stuff hey. Good on ya Max ! Anyway, glad you've got her running right. I'm pretty confident you'll be able to get all covers and bits and pieces from that web site, so happy days !!
Take care and ride safe.
Regards, Hairy Bob.
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very impressed with the time you sorted out the bike! as Bob says the parts are still being produced and bikes are still rolling of the production line so you should get them without a big problem. the new venox as i know are 260cc. but really still looking the same!
Good luck on the bike and remember to pull the plugs off for a check for the jettings and very important put grease on the threads of those plugs because this is really a reliable engine, so you will not remember the last time you pulled the plugs off when it has fused in the cylinder head.
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Now my throttle is sticking. Idk if I put the carbs on misaligned or something. It was working fine until yesterday. Any ideas
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Remove the carb end, and make sure the cable is OK. They fray inside if they get damaged/rusted.
Maybe you forgot the return spring.? I've had them break, and stick at WOT. Just shut off the key... No biggie
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The cables are good. But if I push the carbs a certain way the throttle returns fine. Idk what is wrong
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It's just being girlish. It wants you to spend more time with it. That's all.
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Yea I figured. I guess I'll have to figure it out hopefully soon
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Well fellas I got the throttle fixed but the bike won't stay running without the choke once again. Cleaned the carbs again and still same thing. I dont know what's wrong and there aren't any motorcycle places around where I live. I'm lost now. Any help please
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Are you sure about the carb settings? I don't want to sound stupid but you did blow fluid or air thru all the ports in the carb. body!?
Since you had cable issues isn't it possible it just a cable adjustment or idle speed adjustment?
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I blew air and carb cleaner thru everything. It actually started running like this before I started troubleshooting the throttle. I have no idea whats going on so I'm willing to try any suggestions from anyone
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It's old so Valve adjustment should be done cold, and it sure couldn't hurt. I'd also check real close where the carb mounts to the engine. Those rubber coated manifolds all get cracks. It may be you have a vacuum leak there. Or the insulter on the engine side. They also crack, and you can get an aluminum replacement w/ "O"rings for like 15 bucks or less.
Is the auto choke working? Have you actually seen the plunger work?
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try turning the idle stop screw in a few turns, maybe the idle rpm is too low.
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I'm going to go thru the car s once again because the filter is a little dirty maybe something passed thru and got in the carbs. Something else I was wondering was if any of y'all fellas every changed out the factory footpegs with something aftermarket. The factory ones are a little small for my feet. Any suggestions
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Hey there Oldspower.
Mate, when you pulled the carbs down, did you do them one at a time or both together ? The reason I ask is that I'm pretty sure the jet needles are different. Hey Max, if you're reading this, is that correct ? Just a thought. And do yourself a favour and get a new air filter. You won't believe the dramas that can cause.
Regards, Hairy Bob.
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I did them one at a time. I'll get the new air filter tomorrow hopefully a parts store around here has one. I was gonna go back thru the carbs today but got off work late and now I'm being lazy.
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So I went thru the carbs again. Now she starts up but I have to give it just a little gas to keep it running. The idle screw is turned all the up but still seems to idle to low. I haven't messed with the mixture screws at all. Do y'all think that is the problem. Any ideas
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YES!
Turn either mix screw in either direction. You will find the rpm going up. As it does compensate w/ the speed screw. Keep repeating this till the Mix screw makes the idle go down again, and back up to the highest rpm. Then back off 1/8th - 1/4 turn.
Repeat the process with the other carb. That will get it for you.
Make your adjustments in 1/4 turn increments, and wait about 5 seconds to see the effect. If no effect keep going. If the mix screw goes all the way in... Turn it back to the start point, and go the other way 1/4 turn at a time.
Getting it to idle is the hard part. Adjusting the idle is the easy part.
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Thanks zombie I'm gonna go do that in a few it's pretty hot out here in west Texas. Plus I need to find my offset screwdriver to get to the mixture screws
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So I go to adjust my mixture screws and when I got them to where the bike was running good I would give the bike gas and the mixture screw would tighten back in. And to make matters worse I can't get the bike to shift out of 2nd gear. It won't shift down or up. I've never had this many problems with a bike before I'm getting to frustrated.
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The MIX screws really can't move they should have either a spring or an "O" ring down near the threads that keeps them stable.
It's easy for someone like me to tear the engine down to find all the issues but I think you may have hit the wall so to speak. It may cost a few hundred bucks for a local bike shop to square it all up for you.
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are your carbs balanced? since you took it apart 2 times or more have you balanced them yet? easy way to tell if this is causing your problems is to feel the exhaust coming out of both pipes when it is just about to die in idle, both cylinders have to be running for the bike to sit comfortably in idle. if one is not then it will stall, so when you pull the choke it makes the firing cylinder work harder to sustain idle. check that your plugs are both brown too and not flooded. because that can also cause idle to fail.
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Hey there Oldspower.
Mate, when you pulled the carbs down, did you do them one at a time or both together ? The reason I ask is that I'm pretty sure the jet needles are different. Hey Max, if you're reading this, is that correct ? Just a thought. And do yourself a favour and get a new air filter. You won't believe the dramas that can cause.
Regards, Hairy Bob.
yes the main jets and needle are different, and air filter must be changed if it has been exposed to elements for more then 2 years. when i got my bike it was a new air filter done only 100km or so and looking like new, but it had been sitting in the show room for 5 years.
after my 3rd air filter change which the 2nd one i replaced was dirty as hell still worked better then the 1st one.
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yes the main jets and needle are different, and air filter must be changed if it has been exposed to elements for more then 2 years. when i got my bike it was a new air filter done only 100km or so and looking like new, but it had been sitting in the show room for 5 years.
after my 3rd air filter change which the 2nd one i replaced was dirty as hell still worked better then the 1st one.
+1 ten times!
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So fellas I haven't messed with the bike in a few days and decided to today hoping I could figure out why the tranny is stuck in gear and won't go out. The clutch is good but can't get it to change to any gear. My oil light came on so I decided to look into the issue and behold the engine is full of gas. Gotta bad float in one of the carbs. Guess I'll be getting the carbs rebuilt soon. But anyway do any of u fellas think that the motor being full of gas will stop the tranny from shifting. And no I haven't started it or tried driving it, I know it can damage the engine
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It has to be destroyed. Just some thinned down oil will not prevent it from shifting. You must have been unknowingly riding with that contaminated oil, and done some extreme damage.
I generally NEVER post such a bold statement so I hope I am wrong. Off to the shop with it
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But the shifter linkage was also bent forgot to put that in there. I actually haven't rode it but about 3miles. Never had it running good enough to actually drive it. I changed the oil before I ever did anything to the bike. And when the tranny got stuck I was going thru the gears by hand wasn't riding it. And haven't messed with it at all until today when I noticed the engine was completely full of oil gas mixture. I opened the oil filler cap and it just flowed out
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I forgot to mention I slept with your daughter when I went over to pick up your lawn mower... DETAILS COUNT!
It's probably just stuck between gears. Fix the fuel issue, and it will be fine. Sometimes this happens, and as soon as you start the engine it will all line up again.
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from the top of my head there is one more way that fresh fuel can get into the oil and that is via the vacuum hose connected to the automatic fuel lock. it will cause also the rear cylinder plug to foul and create idle problem. because fuel is dumped directly in to the manifold. with a fouled plug and constant fuel dump the only place it can go is crank and oil. if your floats are not working you should see fuel poring out of your over flow pipes on the carbs 1st.
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Way to go Max. I believe you nailed it. I have replaced petcocks for that very reason.
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Anybody have a picture of this petcock or vacuum line
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Anybody have a picture of this petcock or vacuum line
its behind the rear cylinder right engine cover going up to the vacuum paddock lock on the fuel tank. i will post a photo if you cant find it.
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I found what everyone is talking about. So do I need to replace the fuel tank petcock because if so I can't find it at any local parts store here. A buddy of mine told me to use an inline fuel shutoff valve and it would fix the problem is that true.
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Kymco parts monster, about $31.00 ... pages 96 & 97 of the parts manual. Have you checked the fuel filter also ?
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inline fuel lock will solve the problem only if you block also the vacuum port to the rear cylinder as well. i have thought about it but i had easy access to parts so was not a big deal.
If you have very difficult problems getting the part then temporary using a simple in line lock and attaching an blocked tube to the cylinder vacuum port will work, for the convenience its better to get a new valve set that will come with a new in tank fuel screen. but as i said buddy if that part is going to take 2 weeks+ to get to you then a quick fix will be what you said.
A way to check if it is the vacuum lock dumping fuel is to use a syringe and try to pull fuel out by connecting the syringe and drawing it multiple times to simulate vacuum suction!
Good luck and hopefully it will sort out your problem. ps if it is your problem then you will be able to draw fuel and your rear plug will be wet and fear cylinder will not be firing, and no pulse from the respected exhaust.
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http://www.partsforscooters.com/search-results?keywords=fuel%20petcock#/?keywords=fuel+petcock&search_return=all&Enginesize=150cc+GY6+4-stroke (http://www.partsforscooters.com/search-results?keywords=fuel%20petcock#/?keywords=fuel+petcock&search_return=all&Enginesize=150cc+GY6+4-stroke)
Says 150cc but it is the same one
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Got the fuel problem fixed. Got the bike running she sounds better then ever. But still stuck in gear. I got it to upshift once but now it's stuck in 3rd gear.
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Well you said the shift lever is bent. It may be the shift shaft is also broken or the indent return spring. If you pull that side case cover you will see the spring, and two "bosses" cast into the case.
Go to Stadium Yamaha for the pictures of the parts if you don't find them in the service manual.
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have you changed new oil and oil filter after you have solved the fuel dumping problem?
about the replacement part they all look alike but its the diameter of individual tube and the main connector to the fuel tank is what you should be looking at.
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Yea I changed the oil and filter. That was the first thing I did. I'm going to get a new shifter linkage and the return spring. So the return spring could stop the bike from shifting? I've never had to mess with a return spring b4
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Does the shift lever try to stay in whatever position you click it into? Or does it naturally return to the center position.
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It returns to the center position
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Well then it's not the index spring. Go to http://www.stadiumyamaha.com (http://www.stadiumyamaha.com) and look up your bike. You can follow the bread crumbs to see if you can locate a broken part. It may also just be part of the linkage is bent to the point it is out of adjustment or spec.
Go thru the service manual for the adjustment procedure to see if it is something there.
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Thanx I'll look into that. Gotta get the service manual
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http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=495.15 (http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=495.15)
It's here. I posted it a day or two ago.