KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 125 to 300 => Yager GT 200i => Topic started by: Yager200i on April 22, 2014, 11:55:54 PM
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So I'm going to try something new... I'm going to do away with the battery completely. I'll replace it with 12 Maxwell D-Cell 350 Farad ultracapacitors.
I'll wire six capacitors in series, and make two banks of those. Then I'll wire the two banks in parallel. This'll give me 700 Farad of capacitance.
The only issue I have to work out is a method of current limiting when capacitor voltage is low, so I don't blow out the rectifier/voltage regulator with too much current. I'm planning on using a couple 30 watt festoon style lights to act as current limiters.
The good thing is that everything will fit in the casing of a motorcycle battery with room to spare... now I just have to find a manufacturer of empty motorcycle battery casings. The finished product will look just like a motorcycle battery, but will last a lot longer (the caps are rated to last 10 years), and there'll be no possibility of cold weather limiting battery current, battery acid getting all over everything, there should be a higher voltage available to the spark coil when cranking the engine over because the caps can deliver more current, etc.
I've also found a 30 watt 15 volt DC hand crank generator, so if the cap voltage goes too low and I'm not near a 120 volt outlet (I've got the battery tender for plugging in if I need to), I can hand crank to charge the caps. I'll mount the generator to the frame, drill a hole through the body, and that way I can put the removable crank in to turn the generator. I also plan on mounting a small volt meter next to the crank handle hole, so I can see the charge state of the caps.
Please speak up if I'm overlooking something.
See the attached images.
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Hand crank start (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DArvPMlxHeQ#)
I guess the novelty is cool. How about just replacing all the bulbs with LED's, and electronic relays for the winkers...
If you have your heart set on it a Triac can be used to establish over voltage limits, and a bridge rectifier to replace the regulator which is actually a rectifier, and noise suppressor cap.
Then you could run the paint on solar panels to charge, and throw away the WW I crank idea...
New Solar Paint Research Paves The Way To Affordable Solar Power
http://cleantechnica.com/2013/05/15/caution-wet-solar-power-new-affordable-solar-paint-research/ (http://cleantechnica.com/2013/05/15/caution-wet-solar-power-new-affordable-solar-paint-research/)
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In thinking about it... I belive it would be too distracting wondering if all those do-dads were working...
Worlds Worst Biker (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sNy7DzkPoYE#ws)
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It'll have a few advantages:
1) It'll be cheaper in the long run... I'm already on my third battery in just 3 years. The first one got weak and started burping battery acid all over. The second one had a cell die. The third one is currently in service. The ultracapacitors are rated by the manufacturer to last 10 years. They'll probably last longer, as there'll be very little opportunity for them to experience too high a temperature or too high a voltage.
2) No battery acid, so no battery acid burping all over the place. Had this happen twice with the original battery.
3) They can output huge amounts of current without voltage drop. Whereas a battery's high internal resistance drops the output voltage when it's loaded, the caps won't do that. So the starter will spin a bit faster, and while it's spinning, voltage to the spark will be higher, making for an easier start.
4) They charge more quickly, and don't boil or burp hydrogen or acid like batteries. Batteries start gassing even before they're fully charged. And God forbid a cell is weak, it'll start gassing like mad and burping acid, even if it's a sealed or AGM battery.
5) The AGM batteries (which I currently have) have a problem where due to the flow of electrons, it tends to wick the battery acid toward the positive terminal of each cell, leaving the negative end of the cell starved. This causes a drop in battery capacity.
6) About 5 pounds weight savings. And that's weight that's high-up on our bikes, so it'll lower the center of gravity.
7) Can be run all the way down to 0 volts without damage. Whereas a battery can be damaged if you get it down below 9 volts or so.
8) While I don't experience freezing weather here except for maybe one or two days every few years, conventional batteries experience reduced capacity in cold weather, whereas ultracapacitors don't. Not a big consideration for me, but for others considering this, it might be.
There's a guy on YouTube who's running this exact setup in his car, and it appears to run alright, so in a scooter, it should do just fine. He started with the larger ultracapacitors, and decided to try the small D-Cell types to see if they worked, as well. They did.
The only difference with my setup is that I'll be putting it inside an empty motorcycle battery casing, so it looks just like a regular motorcycle battery.
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Capacitors charge fast and discharge fast.. they don't store energy, they "hold" a charge... unlike batteries... Yes, your starting would be fine and recharging also... just don't use the capacitors when the engine is OFF... like turning on lights or charging a phone, etc. .. you will run out of juice in no time...
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Yeah! ;D
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Good news!
I jiggered the drawing around to maximize the space used, and was able to find space for two more ultracapacitors. So now I can use 7 ultracapacitors in each bank, which will give me a maximum voltage before ultracapacitor damage occurs of 19.95 volts. The old maximum was 17.1 volts, which was a bit close for comfort.
I've still got plenty of space for the diodes and festoon lights that act as a current limiter. Too bad they don't make square ultracapacitors... the round ones waste a lot of space when stacking them together.
The self-discharge current when operating at this per-cell voltage, with average temperatures where I live will be about 0.005 mA. If temperatures go up to 100 F, I'd see about 0.05 mA self-discharge.
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Ok. Now I think you're messing w/ us or you're like a 4 year old savant or something. Why are you talking about 17-19 volts? Is there something I am missing?
Yes it is cool for sure but better suited to strobe lights or Tazers or rail guns.
Like Vivo said sorta. These are better suited as voltage BUFFERS. I CAN see using them to make up for short high demand pulses but not as a battery or storage device. You could add a crap load of them anywhere on the bike you want, and use them as they are designed to buffer the load on the battery. That alone will extend the life well who knows how long. But lets say you hit a puddle... The bike stalls... You try once to start... Twice is not an option, and you break out the crank... You will be cranking/no start/cranking/ no start until you walk to walmart and buy a 40 dollar battery.
I dont want to pee in your cool aid (just lied there) but there are MUCH better approaches to integrating them into a 12v 10a charging/starting system
Maybe I'll fill my mud room w/ them, and hook it to the door knob... Hmmm.
Aluminum Case Oval Type Cbb65 Air Condition 450v Super Capacitor - Buy 450v Super Capacitor,450v Super Capacitor,450v Super Capacitor Product on Alibaba.com
http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/aluminum-case-oval-type-cbb65-air_695503321.html (http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/aluminum-case-oval-type-cbb65-air_695503321.html)
Use these, A flyback transformer and a triac attached to a voltage regulator, and you stand a better chance at 2-3 start attempts if you really wanna try it
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The Alibaba cap you posted a link to is only 25 MFD (although they're offering for sale caps up to 100 MFD), whereas I'll have 700 Farad. Huge difference.
Replacing My Car Battery with Capacitors! 12V BoostPack Update (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z3x_kYq3mHM#ws)
He's only using 6 of them, giving about 2.33 volts at 14 volts charging voltage. Being a car, it's probably got better voltage regulation than our scooters, so 7 cells per bank gives me a cushion before capacitor damage occurs.
He let it sit over the weekend (from Friday night to Monday morning) with just the six cells, starting at 13.4 volts, and it ended up at 10.4 volts. The car started just fine.
I'll have double the storage (two banks), with a lower per-cell voltage. So I'll have less self-discharge voltage drop. And when a scooter is off, there's no power drain, whereas in a car, there is usually a tiny bit.
So it'll work.
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Dude for real I get it. I've used them for lots of things but never a battery. No disrespect at all to your project, I just say things differently.
I just don't see the advantage you expect. I am OFTEN blind to alot of things but in this case if it were that easy we all would have wifes with night tables full of super caps instead of batteries, and chargers.
IT'S COOL! Keep the posts coming cause it is interesting to see other peoples ideas, and talents. I'll be watching this like some newly discovered Soprano's episodes.
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There will be little to absolutely no gain using a battery pack except youre being different and like to use the kick starter. Battery packs are good for atvs and other vehicles that use a kick starter as a primary way of start up.
They are used to save space and weight, not a performance gain at all, and a hand crank generator? Cool factor 10, useful factor 2.
Also Caps do not hold charge over long periods (if charged then connected to a circuit) the way a dry cell or immersed wet plate style, so if youre complaining about replacing batteries get ready for fun. Just save yourself some trouble and get a yuasa battery made for your bike. Caps will bleed out their charge unless isolated separately. This is including low level voltage super caps.
Cool factor 10/useful still at a minimal 2.
Its also more than just my opinion as its been proven time after time of replacing stock regulators on scooters people have done this too.
Read up here a little about rc tc and utc.
http://www.tpub.com/neets/book2/3d.htm (http://www.tpub.com/neets/book2/3d.htm)
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There'll be no gain except for cheaper in the long run, not having to worry about acid burping all over the place again (which ended up with me having to rebuild the data port plug so I could plug in the handheld diagnostic tool, having to disassemble and scrub the better part of the entire back of the bike piece by piece, and getting an acid burn on my wrist), better starts and better cold weather battery performance.
The caps in the link I posted to the video, at the voltage they're being charged to, self discharge at about 0.02 mA at 68 degrees F (not taking into account any loads from the car itself, which a car usually has at least a clock on the radio to power). That's 0.00024 watts. So what ran his cap pack down by 3 volts over the course of 60 or so hours wasn't self-discharge, it was drain from electronics on the car that aren't shut off with the key.
The scooter, not having any drain when the key is off, won't have that drain at all. The only drain will be self-discharge. And at the voltage I'll be charging them to (2.1 volts approximately), the self-discharge drain will be on the order of 0.005 ma, or 0.00006 watts at 68 degrees F.
Should outside temperature rise to 104 F (which it almost never does here), the self-discharge rate would be ten-fold, or 0.0006 watts, according to the manufacturer's data sheet and The Journal of Power Sources (which tested these ultracapacitors for a report).
I did learn something new, though. The total capacitance won't be 700 Farad, it'll be 100 Farad. 50 Farad per bank.
Seven 350F in series = 350/7 or 1/((1/350)+(1/350)+(1/350)+(1/350)+(1/350)+(1/350)+ (1/350))) = 50. Put 2 of these in parallel and it gives you 100 F.
That's still a metric buttload of capacitance, though, and it appears to work just fine for the guy's car, even with the key-off loads drawing small amounts of current, so it should work on a scooter.
The scooter is transitioning into a rolling experimental testing platform. So expect odd additions to it from time to time. That's why I've dubbed it FrankenYager.
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Its also more than just my opinion as its been proven time after time of replacing stock regulators on scooters people have done this too.
That's why I put the (admittedly old school and rough) light bulb current limiting idea in there, to protect the voltage regulator from overcurrent. The ability of ultracapacitors to charge at extremely high current rates would toast our voltage regulators if cap voltage was low. Admittedly rough because I'm not an electrician, I'm a mechanic. The light bulb charging trick was something we used back on the farm... a diode, a 100 watt light bulb, and plug it in... does the trick every time.
But now that I've spoken with my electronics guy and done a bit of research on my own, I have a better idea of how to implement this and vastly improve the capacity. Think "joule thief" and bi-toroidal wound transformer feeding all the caps in parallel. Well, not all of them, 10 of them (I'd need some space for the electronics), which would give me 3500 Farad capacitance. The circuitry would allow me to draw their voltage down very low while still maintaining 12 volt output, while ensuring the charging voltage to the caps can't exceed 2.5 volts and the charging current can't exceed 5 amps.
It's not set in stone yet, but I'll keep working on it until I get it formulated into a workable solution.
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Sounds like its going to be fun! I use sealed batteries so I dont have to worry about burps of acid. When you get it all sorted out you could probably sell them as a kit.
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bi-toroidal wound transformer = fly-back transformer
Triac
Ground filter cap
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Yeah, you were right, Zombie. The best method is to use a high-amperage joule thief circuit to allow the caps voltage to be drawn low (when the bike's not running) while outputting 12 volts to the bike. The charging circuit will be a simple 5 amp DC-DC 12 volt to 2.33 volt circuit. I don't want to go much over 2.33 volts, to extend the life of the caps.
I'll have to remove 4 of the caps to make room for the electronics, but that'd still give me 3500 Farad. That's a huge amount.
I just have to figure out how to shut off the circuitry so there's no drain when the key is off, and have it come back on when the key is turned on. Once it turns off, there'll be no power to the bike, so how to turn it back on? Maybe just something as simple as a switch, eh? Anti-theft, too. :)
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Use a 12 volt cell cell phone charger as a regulator.
The phone end (2.5 volts) to the bats, and the Cigarette lighter end to the stator. Dollar store!!!
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Sounds like its going to be fun! I use sealed batteries so I dont have to worry about burps of acid. When you get it all sorted out you could probably sell them as a kit.
The battery that burped acid all over on my bike was supposedly a sealed battery... but one of the cells got weak, so the charging circuit kept trying to charge the battery, and it gassed, and pushed acid out. The inside back wall of the battery box was completely gray with it... so much so that I couldn't see the head of the bottom screw that holds the battery box in... I'm amazed the battery kept working.
So I'm going to try a route that doesn't entail having heavy and toxic lead and acid.
I won't sell it as a kit, I'll just sell the plans, same as the other things I'm working on (the dual electric coolant pump setup, the exhaust heat recovery system, the water injection and dynamic lambda leaning circuitry, etc.).
The dual electric coolant pumps will allow me to monitor cylinder head, exhaust gas and coolant temperatures, change coolant temperature in 1 F increments, and kick on both pumps (and up to two radiator fans) if overheat is detected. I'm considering a load-based sliding scale for coolant temperature... 10 F warmer under light load, then it cools it back down if you get on the throttle. This will allow for more efficient around town riding by increasing the thermal efficiency of the engine, but prevent predetonation when you're hitting it hard.
The exhaust heat recovery system will allow faster warmup, will heat the fuel for better atomization, will heat the intake air to trick the ECU into thinking it's a warm day (our scooters suffer bad fuel mileage on cold days), will heat water for injection, will allow people riding in cold weather environments to do away with the 'block a part of the radiator with cardboard to keep temperatures up' trick, and will act as an auxiliary radiator on really hot days.
The water injection and dynamic lambda leaning circuitry will take the PWM pulse width going to the fuel injector and create a second proportional PWM pulse to power a water injector. Thus, we don't have to know exactly how much water to inject for any given engine speed or load, it's a function of ambient humidity, EGT and fuel injector PWM pulse width. This is an effective means of internal cooling, lean combustion knock prevention by boosting octane, and a good way to keep combustion temperatures below the point where NOx is formed. It'll also automatically tune lambda for maximum EGT then inject the necessary amount of water to keep EGT within safe limits. This will let the engine run leaner than normal without a loss of power.
If you look at a lambda curve, all the pollutants going out the exhaust pipe decline drastically when burning lean, except NOx. By leaning, and injecting water as a means of internal cooling, we'll be able to get great mileage *and* have cleaner exhaust.
I just have to figure out how to account for ambient humidity and find a humidity sensor that can withstand elevated intake temperatures of 160 F.
I'll probably end up replacing the ECU with a MicroSquirt controller, and programming it to take all the variables into account. It's got a wideband O2 sensor, which would be beneficial. Then selling the MicroSquirt ECU program and programming guide to those who are interested.
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I admit I just scanned thru that last post. Water injectors are old school, and do alot of good things depending on the final mix ratio.
The 2 issues you have to watch out for are steam cleaning the cylinder walls from "blow by" (a new hone/piston/rings should take care of that), and excessive compression ratios due to the expanding water vapor. That's why blow by can be an issue.
I've run water injection in all sorts of engines, and it really becomes fun when you start adding Ethanol/benzine or ethanol/hydrogen peroxide mixtures.
BE FRIGGING CAREFULL w/ Eth/H.P.
It will kill you, and 1/2 your neighborhood if you don/t research it first but it makes one hell of alot of power when vaporized. It is literally rocket fuel.
Back to fun stuff... You have FrankenYeager.
I have two dogs named Macenstein, and Dre'culla. They HATE each other, and the names are quite fitting for them. My avatar is an example of their breed. Presa Canario's
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Use a battery...Lol!!
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;D ;D ;D ;D ;D :-*
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Personally, I think you are on the right track. That guy in the vid started his Scion with these capacitors quite easily. They ought to do well on any scoot. Capacity is capacity whether battery or capacitor. There is some way to calculate the capacity of the scoot battery in coulombs based on its voltage and current of discharge which could be compared to the the coulombs stashed in the capacitors at 13 to 14 volts but why strain? His rig got 3 to 5 starts before the bus voltage dropped to just above 10 volts. That should equate to 6 to 10 starts on a scooter. Recharge will be faster in a bunch of caps in series than any battery. I await your results! Mouser electronics has these for about 11 bucks apiece so it is not much worse than just a replacement battery. Certainly a LOT better than the Li-ion replacements without the dangerous fire hazards.
Karl
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Battery ratings : Batteries And Power Systems
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_1/chpt_11/3.html (http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_1/chpt_11/3.html)
This gives you the coulomb conversion
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I've come up with a way of putting all the ultracapacitors in parallel, and jumping the voltage stored in them up to 12 volts for the bike's electrical system. In this way, rather than only 100 Farad with 14 ultracaps (two parallel banks of 7 caps each in series), I'll have 10 caps in parallel, giving me 3500 Farad.
There'll be a solid state DC-DC 50 amp converter to convert the cap voltage to the bike's electrical system voltage, which will turn off automatically if system voltage is high enough (ie: when the engine is running and the generator is making power, or when the bike is off and the downstream small ultracap bank is charged to 12 volts) to prevent draining the caps when the bike is off. There'll be a small ultracapacitor bank downstream of the DC-DC converter that will act as a small battery to allow a charge to be stored to keep the DC-DC converter off when the bike is off.
Assuming all the loads of the bike (headlight, brake light, ECU, spark coil, fuel pump, O2 sensor heater, running lights and starter, etc.) take about 40 amps maximum when they're all energized, we get the following.
A 1 Farad capacitor at 1 volt stores one Coulomb of charge. A 350 Farad cap at 2.5 volts would store 875 Coulomb. So for 3500 Farad, we'd have 8750 Coulomb.
One amp represents an electron flow of one Coulomb per second.
So 8750 Coulomb / 40 Coulombs per second = 218 seconds or so... not taking into account inefficiencies, losses, etc.
Even at end of life for the ultracaps (which assumes a 20% loss of storage capacity), we'd still get 174 seconds.
That's definitely enough power to get the bike started, even in the worst of circumstances. And I'll have the hand-crank generator if I'm out in the middle of nowhere with a dead battery. It's small and light, so it adds almost nothing to the weight of the bike.
For charging the caps, my electronics guy and I are looking at doing something completely different. We're going to attempt to capture some of the energy that's being thrown away anyway from the OEM ground-shunt voltage regulator before it's shunted to ground.
We'll be using a reduced back-EMF transformer with vortex windings to recapture some of that pulsed electricity (pulsed as the voltage regulator's MOSFETs turn on and off) by putting it through the primary winding before it goes to ground.
A reduced back-EMF transformer is a new invention, it is essentially a magnetic diode, allowing two magnetic flux paths... one for the primary coil, one for the secondary coils.
In a normal transformer, putting voltage through the primary coil causes a magnetic flux that travels through the core to the secondary coil. The secondary coil, when loaded, creates a magnetic flux that opposes the primary coil's magnetic flux, reducing the primary coil's inductance, and allowing more current to flow through the primary coil. This increased current flow creates a stronger primary coil magnetic flux with overpowers the secondary coil magnetic flux, allowing more power to be extracted from the secondary coil.
In a reduced back-EMF transformer, the two fluxes are more separated. Since magnetic flux flows like electricity (in that it always seeks the path of least resistance), the secondary coil magnetic flux flows in a secondary pathway thus avoiding the primary coil's opposing magnetic flux. In this way, the primary coil doesn't get much back-EMF, so its inductance doesn't change much. This allows us to design the coil's inductance such that it'll work without affecting the performance of the voltage regulator.
The vortex coils are coils that are wound such that they concentrate the magnetic flux very strongly in the center of the coil (in fact, vortex coils can be wound such that you can create high voltage plasma in a plasma tube using an air core vortex coil that's being driven with a mere 40 volts). This will ensure the highest magnetic flux coupling between the coils and the core, and means the coils can be small and light.
The core itself will be made of Ferrotron or similar. It's a high permeability, low hysteresis, non-saturating, non-conducting core material. This will minimize losses to eddy currents, hysteresis losses and saturation inefficiencies.
Not sure if it'll all work, but that's what research is for.
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Quoted...
"There'll be a solid state DC-DC 50 amp converter to convert the cap voltage to the bike's electrical system voltage, which will turn off automatically if system voltage is high enough (ie: when the engine is running and the generator is making power, or when the bike is off and the downstream small ultracap bank is charged to 12 volts) to prevent draining the caps when the bike is off. There'll be a small ultracapacitor bank downstream of the DC-DC converter that will act as a small battery to allow a charge to be stored to keep the DC-DC converter off when the bike is off."
You can make a much cheaper version here...
Solid State Relay SSR 5 220V DC 40A Heat Sink | eBay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Solid-State-Relay-SSR-5-220V-DC-40A-Heat-Sink-/250672011513 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Solid-State-Relay-SSR-5-220V-DC-40A-Heat-Sink-/250672011513)
When the key is off it will disconnect the cap bank. They are cheap enough to use one for each pole, and add a 50 amp diodes to prevent leakage thru the SSR's when they are off.
50 Amp 100 Volt Bridge Rectifier MP15010 50 Amp Full Wave Diode Rectifier | eBay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/50-Amp-100-Volt-Bridge-Rectifier-MP15010-50-Amp-Full-Wave-Diode-Rectifier-/130905566376 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/50-Amp-100-Volt-Bridge-Rectifier-MP15010-50-Amp-Full-Wave-Diode-Rectifier-/130905566376)
If you want more info on the SSR's, and application charts for the different types...
http://www.crydom.com/en/Tech/Newsletters/Solid%20Statements%20-%20SSRs%20switching%20types.pdf (http://www.crydom.com/en/Tech/Newsletters/Solid%20Statements%20-%20SSRs%20switching%20types.pdf)
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His rig got 3 to 5 starts before the bus voltage dropped to just above 10 volts. That should equate to 6 to 10 starts on a scooter.
With the setup as we envision it now, as compared to a battery, you'll see a regular battery's voltage decline over time at a steady but accelerating rate as a load is placed upon it. The ultracap setup will remain at 12 volts until the DC-DC converter can no longer produce 12 volts provided the voltage of the caps, and will shut off completely.
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Quit talkin' and start building!
Karl
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LOL!
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I got one heck of a headache just trying to read through the different ideas you guys have. Whooo! Wouldn't an AGM type battery be a better replacement? No acid to worry about. Just saying.
modmaster
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Too many ways to skin a cat.
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Modmaster, the batteries that come in our Kymco's are AGM. Cheap ones at that!
Karl
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OK, Yager! What happened to this fascinating project?
Karl
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Shorted out!
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No, still working on it. It's in the pipeline.
My electric coolant pump microcontroller is almost finished, we got the new PCBs delivered and my electronics guy is busy soldering components in place, he's already tested a bench model of it, and the software and hardware is working, as is the USB computer interface for changing the settings and the dashboard display. We also found a manufacturer who is willing to mass-produce these if I decide to go the route of manufacturing entire aftermarket retrofit kits. You can't believe how complicated it gets to make pumps smart enough to not only monitor but protect an engine from overheat of the coolant, cylinder head or exhaust. Most of the time went into programming the various operating modes of the microcontroller.
After that my electronics guy's second project will be creating a new type of ignition system... then the ultra-cap battery project. But right now I'm sourcing parts and pieces of the ultracap battery.
The new ignition is called a nano-pulsed corona discharge system. Essentially, you use a regular Iridium spark plug, but you cut off the J-curve ground electrode. The center post is hit with a high voltage that is turned on and off so quickly for each spark event (on the order of nanoseconds) that high voltage "feelers" emanate from the center post, but they never have enough time to transition into the lower-voltage, high-amperage arc phase. Thus, free radicals (electrons) are distributed throughout the entire combustion chamber, forcing the fuel:air mixture to ignite all at once. Remember that combustion is a free radical cascade reaction between fuel and an oxidant, so we're using this same principle to initiate combustion.
The advantages to this are:
1) Ignition and combustion are much faster. This allows you to retard spark timing to TDC or slightly after, so the engine is mechanically more efficient, since it doesn't have to do work against that ~20 degrees BTDC of a conventional ignition system where the fuel:air mix is ignited and expanding as the piston is still moving up in the cylinder. I think our scooters advance spark timing something like a maximum of 21 degrees.
2) No flame front. Bulk ignition means there's no flame front, thus no chance of knock due to colliding flame fronts.
3) Lean burn. You can dramatically lean your fuel:air mixture and still reliably ignite it.
4) Lower power consumption. Because the spark is never allowed to enter that lower-voltage high-current arc phase, current draw is less. It uses the power more efficiently in igniting the fuel:air mix.
Siemens is doing something similar and should have their products for cars on the market sometime soon, but since they'll never make one that'd fit on a scooter, I've got to have it built.
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This sound very cool but... it will not work. The combustion chamber is actually based on the insulator of the spark plug. The time it takes for the flame to travel through the cylinder is calculated into the timing/compression ratio.
Unless you redesign the piston/cylinder head/spark plug, what you will have is a case of force pre detonation. That system will create too much pressure, and slow the travel of the pistonm wear the crank shaft/con rod bearings, and cause piston failure.
I have messed w/ similar systems years ago. The only partial solution was to install the spark plug in the side of the cylinder just before TDC (approx 20-25*, and install a perfectly machined head to match the piston dome. A 4mm squish in most cases maintained a 10:1 compression ratio.
There are a few other things like "leaner mixture"... More air= higher temp...
Don't get discouraged. Keep at it. Your best bet is re designing the cylinder head to run gap-less plugs, and 45-50k volt coils. Your nano spark idea can work if the combustion chamber is designed for it. It ONLY engine I know of that will run that sort of Tech. is the Mercury Marine outboard engine. They are designed to work with a different shape flame front. Models from 90-300HP. Perhaps you could pick up a long block cheaply to experiment with or a junker so you can inspect the combustion chamber in the heads