KymcoForum.com
General => General Discussion => Topic started by: Punk052 on April 10, 2014, 07:36:40 PM
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Has anyone else had issues with finding parts, then when you found it being shocked at the cost? My starter went out and it looks to cost around 160 dollars all told to replace. Plus the shipping, the wait time, and the chance that it will go again in a year or two. I have found starters for every other scoot kymco makes for under a hundred. Is my people 250 just an exception? still looking for a cheaper starter btw, miss kick starters....
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The drive belt for my GTi cost over $100.. Why would a small belt cost so much?.
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One of the things I consider before purchasing a vehicle...is parts avail. and pricing of the consumable pieces of that vehicle.
I'm pretty happy with the prices of these things for my LIKE 200i.
Maybe the more rare a scooter model is - the more the parts cost to make in small numbers?
Maybe look at wrecked scooter parts on eBay?
Stig
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They charge more for parts that hardly ever sell because there is less competition in the marketplace.
I have never had a bad starter in any of the 76 bikes/ scoots that I've owned.
Sam:)
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They charge more for parts that hardly ever sell because there is less competition in the marketplace.
I have never had a bad starter in any of the 76 bikes/ scoots that I've owned.
Sam:)
"76" !
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That is ridiculously expensive. Try removing the starter and spray it down with electronic cleaner. It may just be a buildup of oxidation. The cleaner can be had at Radio Shack for less than $20.
I'm beginning to have issues with my Like starting. I cleaned the brake safety switch which worked for a few week, but now its acting up again but for a different reason. I now have to bounce on the seat a little to get the starter to turn over the engine. If I don't bounce all I get is a clicking sound.
If nothing else call your Kymco country distributor and ask why its so costly.
Good luck.
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Trout Bum: A similar problem occurred with my Like, it would start sometimes, and just click sometimes. I finally figured out that there was a bad connection to the starter solenoid. Cleaned the connection up but the problem returned. Out of desperation I bought some conductive grease and applied it to the cable connections at the solenoid at it seems to have cured the issue. Might not be the same problem but you never know.
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Trout Bum: A similar problem occurred with my Like, it would start sometimes, and just click sometimes. I finally figured out that there was a bad connection to the starter solenoid. Cleaned the connection up but the problem returned. Out of desperation I bought some conductive grease and applied it to the cable connections at the solenoid at it seems to have cured the issue. Might not be the same problem but you never know.
When I was buying my 3M gasket adhesive and more blue locktite the other day - I had some of that electric contact grease in my hand....reading the instructions.
I think I will get some for the battery posts, starter solenoid....and other important 'get you home' electrical spots on the LIKE. I DO understand that you need to make very good metal-to-metal contact then put the grease on top. I do wish the scoot had a more robust starting system that would blast the engine into life - instead of hiccuping it into life! I think I'll toss out question #347 from my newbie-ness...."They say it is good to get a more powerful battery....more starting amps or some such. So, IS there one which will fit our scoots?" I'm going to carry this question over onto the Tech. Forum Section.
Nice warm evening ride tonight... liking my new 14gm sliders!
Stig (apologies to the OP here)
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Trout Bum: A similar problem occurred with my Like, it would start sometimes, and just click sometimes. I finally figured out that there was a bad connection to the starter solenoid. Cleaned the connection up but the problem returned. Out of desperation I bought some conductive grease and applied it to the cable connections at the solenoid at it seems to have cured the issue. Might not be the same problem but you never know.
Today I checked my battery contacts thinking maybe when I had warranty work done a couple of weeks back one or both of the contacts where loose. Upon inspection the negative side was slightly loose and oxidation had formed. I then cleaned both posts and connectors and used dielectric grease when I reassembled. It fired right up only to shut it down and have it just go back to the clicking. On another forum they suggested to check what you stated in your findings. Tomorrow I'm pulling the seat/pan and checking the various starter connections and contacts. I'm hoping its a simple thing like a loose connection which I'll apply dielectric grease and tighten up.
UPDATE:
Today I cleaned all the connections related to the starter. Starter is now performing as it should. :D
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There's a site called scooterpartsco.com that has a lot of cheap starters and other parts for Kymcos. I would try there. They told me that they can get a lot of stuff that's not on the site, so if you want something, let them know. The longest I've ever waited for parts on my Vespa from them was a week and a half when it was on backorder at the dealer for 2 months. We;ll see how it goes with my new/old Super 9
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There's a site called scooterpartsco.com that has a lot of cheap starters and other parts for Kymcos. I would try there. They told me that they can get a lot of stuff that's not on the site, so if you want something, let them know. The longest I've ever waited for parts on my Vespa from them was a week and a half when it was on backorder at the dealer for 2 months. We;ll see how it goes with my new/old Super 9
Thanks for the info and link
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Has anyone else had issues with finding parts, then when you found it being shocked at the cost? My starter went out and it looks to cost around 160 dollars all told to replace. Plus the shipping, the wait time, and the chance that it will go again in a year or two. I have found starters for every other scoot kymco makes for under a hundred. Is my people 250 just an exception? still looking for a cheaper starter btw, miss kick starters....
Is this the one? http://www.partsforscooters.com/250cc-Electric-Starter-Motor-180-6?sc=38&category=138809 (http://www.partsforscooters.com/250cc-Electric-Starter-Motor-180-6?sc=38&category=138809)
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That is ridiculously expensive. Try removing the starter and spray it down with electronic cleaner. It may just be a buildup of oxidation. The cleaner can be had at Radio Shack for less than $20.
I'm beginning to have issues with my Like starting. I cleaned the brake safety switch which worked for a few week, but now its acting up again but for a different reason. I now have to bounce on the seat a little to get the starter to turn over the engine. If I don't bounce all I get is a clicking sound.
If nothing else call your Kymco country distributor and ask why its so costly.
Good luck.
That is the starter relay acting up or possibly a wire leading to it. You can easily replace the OEM relay w/ one of these... http://www.parts-express.com/12-vdc-tyco-5-pin-relay-spdt-20-30a-(formerly-bosch)--330-070?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla (http://www.parts-express.com/12-vdc-tyco-5-pin-relay-spdt-20-30a-(formerly-bosch)--330-070?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla)
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That is the starter relay acting up or possibly a wire leading to it. You can easily replace the OEM relay w/ one of these... http://www.parts-express.com/12-vdc-tyco-5-pin-relay-spdt-20-30a-(formerly-bosch)--330-070?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla (http://www.parts-express.com/12-vdc-tyco-5-pin-relay-spdt-20-30a-(formerly-bosch)--330-070?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla)
Is that heavy enough to be used as a starter relay?
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Absolutely yes. It is a 30A relay. I believe the starter draws 15A tops.
I have used several dozen is all sorts of applications. You will have to cut off the factory relay connector, and add Heat Shrink terminals to the wires but it is still a ten minute job. One terminal is the battery feed #30, #85 is the switched from the brake lever, #86 is the positive feed to the brake light/Ign. coil, and #87a goes to the starter.
30 amp relay wiring Motorsports ECU Wiring Harness Construction
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html (http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html)
Down toward the bottom of that page you will find the diagram.
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Thanks Zombie!
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You're welcome. Anytime!