Oil in water xciting 500

[CROSSBOLT]

Let's hope so. I would not have had your patience! I would have had my hands clenched about someone's throat long before this!

[xsel777]

Ok Folks, something is beginning to happen here at last.

The head and barrel came back from the engineers, but the barrel had to be returned, as they said it was fine , but mechanic said not so, and when it was returned the second time it had 0.3mm milled off!
The head got a 0.06mm shave.

I am going to get a copper gasket made, but the barrel/cylinder skim exceeded the warpage allowed. (0.05mm)
 
The mechanic suggests adding that 0.05 to the barrel gasket(at the bottom, which will put the top of the barrel at the correct height for the head gasket.
Then the copper gasket only needs to be 0.06mm thicker than stock.

Workable?

Head max warpage is also 0.05mm, so skim of 0.03mm is within spec on this part.




That was part one of the story.


Part two is :

I need to know what the uncompressed thickness of the stock head gasket for a kymco xciting 500 Ri 2010 is.
I have a manual but I only see working clearances for the metal engine parts, not for gaskets.


How can I get this info, or can you assist?





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[xsel777]

I spoke to the local ex kymco agent, who I am on friendly terms with, and he indicated that the two copper gasket idea is best.

But even as an agent, he can't provide a thickness for the head gasket.

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[xsel777]

I have not been able to get any info on the thickness of the original new head gasket.
I am now waiting for the one from the post office (paid for already - so preferred), and /or the other one from Yamaha.
When I picked up an original air filter from Yamaha the other day (a pre-order), I was advised that he is waiting for corporate Taiwan to respond to my request.

And that is where we stand.
Can't move forward until I have an accurate measurement.



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[xsel777]

Well folks, some news on this ongoing saga.

The original gasket arrived from Italy, and a copper copy will be made(in the process)

This is the situation :
. 36mm material was shaved off.

I could not find an exact thickness of copper sheeting, and engineering the thickness seems to be problematic and not very accurate(according to one engineering company)
I can get  .8mm ,  1mm and 1.5mm.

During discussions with the bike shop, the barrel gasket split apart into two gaskets while handling and measuring its thickness.

gasket thickness for reference:
head=0.8mm at inner cylinder edge(thickest)
barrel=0.5mm

I checked with two bike shops, and they both stated that the barrel would only have one gasket, so the extra gasket was a mistake by the shipper(Kymco)

cool, right?

It is cool because that takes care of           0.25mm,leaving 0.11mm still to be covered.

According to the bike shops(2),the copper will expand when it is annealed.
I cant get figures on degree of expansion, but it at least whittles away at that 0.11mm

Furthermore,the mechanic where my bike is , and the other shop(where I am double checking everything), both are of the opinion that 0.11mm will still be workable in that no valves will hit the piston. The piston does have valve recesses.
The compression will increase slightly.

That last sentence does concern me, as these 500's do battle to start in the cold, but I have actually got that problem sorted, but still, I am still concerned.

So now, the decisions have been made, and it is just to wait to see what happens on assembly.

No, I am not buying another bike.
I might consider a new barrel if I don't have to sell my house to get it.

My stomach is all in knots whether this work out.




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[Stig / Major Tom]

I used to think the God Father saga was tops - but this story!! -  needs only some horses and maybe a girl interest!

This man is not changing rides come heck or high water!

Stig

[xsel777]

Well, the tension is really picking up now.... 😀.
The shop is actually working on the scoot!
And winter has started with the first storm.
That plug I broke off, was so easy to take out, it was embarrassing.
The motor is on the bench, and testing piston and valves are not touching before final assembly.
I can't wait.
Maybe two more sleeps...

[xsel777]

It was so close, but not to be.....
No, I don't mean the bike is toast, [emoji16].

The engine was put together today, and the valves were not touching the piston, so all was going well, until it was found that a bolt was not tightening properly.
A very long bolt from the rockers through the head, and also down the side of  the barrel, into the engine case.
It was pointed out to me that this was on the same side where the old head gasket had blown.
So a helicoil will be fitted, causing a delay.
Darn, I was hoping to be riding this weekend.

I suppose in a way, this is actually good news, because for the first time, there is actually a definitive cause for why there was oil in the water, and all the swopped out parts had not resolved it(and with nothing else to swop, leaving the question, "what is going on here?" ).

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[xsel777]

So close, so close!
one more day only, hopefully.

At the workshop my scoot was started today.
The mechanic had to fit a helicoil kind of thing into the engine body where a bolt had stripped.
He showed me how the temp was now lower than it used to be, than ever before.
Previously, the needle was in the middle, but now can definately be seen to be below the middle line.

The mechanic was unhappy with the exhaust front piece glowing red when revving up to about 4500-5000rpm.
He was saying that it should not do that, the bike is running too lean and this is probably why the heater on the O2 sensor had broken (twice).

So, I ran my Chinese engine code reader on it, It can reset codes and adjust co2 levels.

Now the questions :
Is the mechanic right or wrong about the red hot exhaust pipe where it comes out of the engine?
And about the heater on the O2 sensor dying twice?

lastly, The co2 levels.
Nodody at that workshop could say whether the adjusting + or - from the default 0.0 was the correct way to go.
Another way to say it ; does adjusting co2 level from 0.0 to 1.5 mean more oxygen, or more fuel,and the same with -, going from 0.0 to -3.0 mean less oxygen or less fuel?

The mechanic said I must get a CR9 plug, because the exhaust is getting so hot.
Your views.?



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[CROSSBOLT]

Heat range of spark plug does NOT affect EGT (Exhaust Gas Temp). Mixture does. Mech missed that one...

[xsel777]

Oh well, it was not to be.
The rear brake caliper was replaced(I had one that I imported from usa refurbished), but then the master cylinder was found to be not producing adequate pressure, and the brake handle was worn down.
I even helped a bit, I order to get the bike done for the weekend (a long weekend) , but, it was not to be.
Anyway, I do have good news, the owner of this workshop has a 500 gathering dust in the back, that cant start due to starter motor breaking a part of the casing.
My O2 sensor is faulty, the heater, and after a conversation with said owner, the result is  I got one for free.





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[big blue]

This is what I call a saga!

[xsel777]

It was ready for collection, but then........

The rear brakes were very spongy after fitting the refurbished caliper.
First round failed to get a decent pressure.
Second round was better, but still not  satisfactory.
Third round, pressure was aquired, but then the braided hose sprung a leak.
My handlebars are bare metal, and the brake hoses have been rusting.

I was told I must replace the complete length from cylinder to caliper, as it is one piece, but I am almost certain that there is a splitter under the fairing, so luckily it will be a much cheaper replacement.
In fact I have some hoses from the Kymco 250 I used to have, so the fix will be free if the hose is not too long.

Here's hoping.
Wish me luck.

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[xsel777]

It turns out, there is a brake splitter on the 500,but it is for the front dual brakes only.
I was getting confused with my grand dink 250.
So, price for a new made up hose, is horrendous, but, they work really fast, and so it is fitted and now just waiting for a call to say the scoot is ready for collection.



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[CROSSBOLT]

Let us pray....