Author Topic: Stop light change  (Read 8378 times)

JordanRusev

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Stop light change
« on: June 02, 2014, 01:56:58 PM »
Hi all,
I have to change the stop light on my Kymco Yager (Dink) 200i. I just can't figure out how to do it. Has anyone had this problem? If you can help me that would be grate, because I don't want to go to the repair shop for such a minor problem. Also I feel kind of stupid for not figuring this out :(

Stig / Major Tom

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Re: Stop light change
« Reply #1 on: June 02, 2014, 04:57:58 PM »
I think you need to remove part # 80105 then 80106. Maybe just 80106. Lay on your back with a flash light and look up in there. It really is not hard if you take your time and study the fasteners before you. Takes just a couple of mins. to do.
I have a LIKE200i and I had to get at my tail light. See pix here for how I got at my tail light.
http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=11486.msg115285#msg115285


Your parts picture:
http://www.kymcopartsmonster.com/p/Kymco-Parts#/Kymco_USA/SJ40AB_YAGER_GT_200i_(2009)/F18_-_Tail_Light_Rear_Fender/04%7c%7e50%7c%7e0005/04%7c%7e50%7c%7e0055
Boston Strong
Rural Ohio

And, I'm feeling a little peculiar.

JordanRusev

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Re: Stop light change
« Reply #2 on: June 02, 2014, 08:12:32 PM »
10x Stig. I’ll try this tomorrow and let you know if it worked ;).  Till now I have removed the battery and the battery case. I can see the back of the light, but I don’t know what to do next. I don’t want to use a lot of force because I don’t want to break something.

Yager200i

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Re: Stop light change
« Reply #3 on: June 07, 2014, 08:56:43 PM »
You're talking about the brake light? There should be 4 screws on the brake light lens. Remove those, and the entire lens slides straight back and out. Don't twist it, try to lift it to pop it out, or anything like that, it slides straight back toward the back of the bike.

There's an o-ring type rubber seal around the edges, and it'll probably be stuck to that. Very gently pry with a flat blade screwdriver only in the direction that the lens slides. When you're putting it back together, take that rubber seal out and put a thin film of white grease on it to prevent it sticking in the future.

After the lens is out, the bulb is one of those push-and-twist deals.

I had a heck of a time the first time I tried to get mine out, so I could figure out what bulbs are in there, so I could order LED replacements... I cracked the lens. I'll order a replacement when I get a round tuit.
« Last Edit: June 07, 2014, 09:00:50 PM by Yager200i »

az_slynch

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Re: Stop light change
« Reply #4 on: June 07, 2014, 11:43:25 PM »
If you're looking to go LED, try scanning eBay for the following terms:

" CREE LED Q9 1157 Red "

Here's a listing from the seller I bought from:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1157-High-Power-5630-Chip-Cree-LED-Red-Turn-Signal-Brake-Tail-Lights-Bulbs-/231028588922?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item35ca60817a

Slightly newer casing, but same layout. The light is nice and bright and has a big enough brightness change to make it very apparent that I've hit my brakes, even during the day. As a bonus, it makes your tail lamp look sort of like a Cylon eye!
'01 Super Fever ZX 50
'05 Bet 'n Win 250
'10 Yager GT200i
'12 Yager GT200i
'16 K-Pipe 125
'18 Spade 150 stolen April 2020

Yager200i

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Re: Stop light change
« Reply #5 on: June 10, 2014, 12:36:44 AM »
Thanks for that info, az_slynch. I just ordered the same brake light for my Yager. I've always been leery of riding with the sun to my back... the current tail light / brake light isn't bright enough to see very well when the sun is shining on it. This LED should increase my conspicuity.

I'll also be ordering an additional LED assembly. I'm going to remove the luggage rack / passenger hand rail. That black square it mounts into will be perfect for mounting the additional LED assembly. I'll then wire it in parallel with the brake light, so my Kisan Tech T50W TailBlazer brake light flasher should still work.
« Last Edit: June 10, 2014, 12:41:48 AM by Yager200i »

Stig / Major Tom

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Re: Stop light change
« Reply #6 on: June 10, 2014, 05:13:38 PM »
You're talking about the brake light? There should be 4 screws on the brake light lens. Remove those, and the entire lens slides straight back and out. Don't twist it, try to lift it to pop it out, or anything like that, it slides straight back toward the back of the bike.

There's an o-ring type rubber seal around the edges, and it'll probably be stuck to that. Very gently pry with a flat blade screwdriver only in the direction that the lens slides. When you're putting it back together, take that rubber seal out and put a thin film of white grease on it to prevent it sticking in the future.

After the lens is out, the bulb is one of those push-and-twist deals.

I had a heck of a time the first time I tried to get mine out, so I could figure out what bulbs are in there, so I could order LED replacements... I cracked the lens. I'll order a replacement when I get a round tuit.
Yeah, why can't Kymco do that with all the lights. A couple nice chrome screws on the lens - easy-peezy. You guys are lucky!!
Too much of my scoot looks like it was put together with magic! (no visible screws!)
Stig
Boston Strong
Rural Ohio

And, I'm feeling a little peculiar.

az_slynch

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Re: Stop light change
« Reply #7 on: June 12, 2014, 02:02:56 AM »
For reference. This is the running lamp, not even the brake. Didn't have a tie-strap handy.
'01 Super Fever ZX 50
'05 Bet 'n Win 250
'10 Yager GT200i
'12 Yager GT200i
'16 K-Pipe 125
'18 Spade 150 stolen April 2020

az_slynch

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Re: Stop light change
« Reply #8 on: June 12, 2014, 05:23:46 AM »
Tried it in the daytime, my cameraphone was going a little crazy with my "fricken' laser" taillamp. At least you can get an idea of the brightness change. Personally, I think it looks less "lasery" and more of a deeper red hue than the pictures show.
« Last Edit: June 12, 2014, 05:28:53 AM by az_slynch »
'01 Super Fever ZX 50
'05 Bet 'n Win 250
'10 Yager GT200i
'12 Yager GT200i
'16 K-Pipe 125
'18 Spade 150 stolen April 2020

az_slynch

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Re: Stop light change
« Reply #9 on: June 12, 2014, 05:24:54 AM »
Aaaand the brake lamp. Note the special "brake lamp test tool", aka produce band on the left brake lever. Maybe this thing can go Ludicrous Speed after all...
« Last Edit: June 12, 2014, 05:27:22 AM by az_slynch »
'01 Super Fever ZX 50
'05 Bet 'n Win 250
'10 Yager GT200i
'12 Yager GT200i
'16 K-Pipe 125
'18 Spade 150 stolen April 2020

Yager200i

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Re: Stop light change
« Reply #10 on: June 21, 2014, 11:28:49 PM »
Wow! That's insanely bright. I ordered the same. I also got LED turn signals front and rear, and an LED license plate light. So soon the only light that won't be LED will be the headlight. I also ordered a new LED compatible turn signal flasher.

I'm waiting for my new brake light plastic cover and the new flasher module to be delivered, then I'll put it all in.

Just for the record, here's all the lights for the Yager (incandescent and LED):

--------------------------------------------------
Headlight (white):
  Incandescent:  H4 (60/55W)
  LED:  H4 9003 High Power COB LED Light 3200lm High Low HeadLight 40W Bulb Xenon White
  http://www.vleds.com/headlights/led/h4-9003-hb2/h4-mtg2-moto.html
  http://www.vleds.com/shop-bulb-numbers/h-series/h4-9003-hb2/h4-mtg2.html
  VLEDs.com says they're not sure if a headlight modulator will burn out their LED driver.

  http://www.lifetimeledlights.com/H49003-LED-headlights-_p_59.html
  http://www.lifetimeledlights.com/H4M-motorcycle-headlight_p_76.html
  NOTE: Kisan Tech says my headlight modulator *will* work with a 30 or 40 watt LED headlight.
  NOTE: LifeTimeLEDLights says the headlight modulator will burn out the LED driver.

  http://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/3600-Lumen-H4-H6M-LED-Headlight-bulb-_p_83.html
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/US-Universal-Car-Truck-H4-1800LM-50W-Cree-LED-HeadLight-Head-lamp-H-L-Beam-W/371030888877

Position Lights (white):
  Incandescent:  T10 501 (5W)
  LED:  W5W 501 T10 5W 5 WATT CREE LED (white)
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-W5W-501-T10-5W-5-WATT-CREE-LED-Wedge-Car-Light-Bulbs-Xenon-White-6000K-/181212193050

License light (white):
  Incandescent:  T10 501 194? (5W)
  LED:  T10 Wedge 5 Ultra Bright SMD LED Bulb
  http://www.ledlight.com/t10-wedge-5-ultra-bright-smt-led-light.aspx

Brake light (red):
  Incandescent:  P21/5W-12V 380 / 1157 (21/5W)
  LED:  CREE LED Q9 1157 Red
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/1157-High-Power-5630-Chip-Cree-LED-Red-Turn-Signal-Brake-Tail-Lights-Bulbs-/231028588922

Turn signals (orange):
  Incandescent:
  F - 12V10W CD12V RY10W 37R E13 2F6 9A
  R - PY21W 581 BAU15S 7507 (21W)

  LED:
  F - AMBER 7507 BAU15s
  http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/tail-brake-turn/filter/Cross_Reference_Number,BAU15S,21,196:
  R - Jtech 2x 1156 BAU15S 13W High Power LED Yellow Signal Light
  http://www.amazon.com/Jtech-BAU15S-Power-Yellow-Signal/dp/B00C16FS1C

--------------------------------------------------
« Last Edit: June 30, 2014, 04:17:13 AM by Yager200i »

az_slynch

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Re: Stop light change
« Reply #11 on: June 23, 2014, 06:44:14 PM »
Wow, those LED headlights look wild! I just got a PIAA HS1 Super Plasma GT-X for my Yager. Was going to grab some Silverstars for those marker lamps as well before I pull the bike apart to swap anything. I have one other lighting trick in mind for my Yager, but I need to figure out the electronics before I start messing with it further.
'01 Super Fever ZX 50
'05 Bet 'n Win 250
'10 Yager GT200i
'12 Yager GT200i
'16 K-Pipe 125
'18 Spade 150 stolen April 2020

Yager200i

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Re: Stop light change
« Reply #12 on: June 23, 2014, 08:33:37 PM »
Quote
I just got a PIAA HS1 Super Plasma GT-X for my Yager.

Ouch! $50 for a single bulb. What kind of lumens does that thing produce, and how long does it last?

I was thinking about going with the 3600 lumen LED setup, until I reached my hand in there behind the headlight and realized we've only got about two finger-widths of space behind the light housing. So the heat sink that comes with seemingly every LED headlight wouldn't fit.

So I'll stick with my Sylvania (Osram) Silverstar Ultra for now... although I do notice that it's not as bright as it once was. It's been in the bike for one year, one week and one day (installed 15 Jun 2013).

For the position lights (those two lights on each side of the headlight), go with the W5W 501 T10 5W 5 WATT CREE LED Wedge. It's like having two extra headlights, and they're durable. Mine have been in the bike for a year and a day (installed on 22 Jun 2013) with no problems.
« Last Edit: June 23, 2014, 08:42:42 PM by Yager200i »

az_slynch

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Re: Stop light change
« Reply #13 on: June 25, 2014, 03:11:55 AM »
Ouch! $50 for a single bulb. What kind of lumens does that thing produce, and how long does it last?

I got it for $36 with free 2-day shipping via Amazon Prime. Hooray for family Prime accounts. No idea on lumens, no spec on the casing. Supposedly equivalent output to a 60W/60W bulb. 3800K low beam, 5000K high beam. Though it might look sharp on my blue-black bike.

It isn't installed yet, it just arrived on Monday afternoon. I need to make a good excuse to use the garage for an afternoon to take the bike apart and I was looking for some position lights to accent it.

I was thinking about going with the 3600 lumen LED setup, until I reached my hand in there behind the headlight and realized we've only got about two finger-widths of space behind the light housing. So the heat sink that comes with seemingly every LED headlight wouldn't fit.

So I'll stick with my Sylvania (Osram) Silverstar Ultra for now... although I do notice that it's not as bright as it once was. It's been in the bike for one year, one week and one day (installed 15 Jun 2013).

For the position lights (those two lights on each side of the headlight), go with the W5W 501 T10 5W 5 WATT CREE LED Wedge. It's like having two extra headlights, and they're durable. Mine have been in the bike for a year and a day (installed on 22 Jun 2013) with no problems.

Bummer on the spacing. We need PC-cooling heat pipes and heatsinks to hang in the radiator cavern.

I'll look into those LEDs for the position lights. I was considering Silverstar wedge bumps, but I'm in no hurry to hack on the bike much. My warranty is still good through mid-October so I don't want to go crazy until them. Working on getting some Taiwanese aftermarket goodies to add after it's up and I *really* want to try and stuff a set of the new G. Dink wheels onto my fork and swingarm. Pretty sure the rear's a slam-dunk, not sure on the front; might need to swap downtubes.
'01 Super Fever ZX 50
'05 Bet 'n Win 250
'10 Yager GT200i
'12 Yager GT200i
'16 K-Pipe 125
'18 Spade 150 stolen April 2020

TLRam1

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Re: Stop light change
« Reply #14 on: June 26, 2014, 07:10:27 AM »
Stig, great job and write up, if you can go back and edit the photos, add a couple of spaces in between each one makes it frr easier on the eyes and looks better.
Terry
10 Kymco People S 250
87 Yamaha Riva 200 (Sold)
Allen TX (Dallas)
cli-maxridinggear.com

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