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Messages - MN_Scoot

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1
Agility 50 / Re: 2010 Agility 50cc after 5 years and 50.000+ km's
« on: October 06, 2015, 09:26:56 PM »
That's awesome. Hope you have many more K's!

2
Agility 50 / Re: Front cover removal kymco agility 50
« on: July 15, 2015, 02:54:22 PM »
It's been a while since I removed mine, but i seem to remember a screw somewhat hidden from normal view I had to see when looking from below. I don't think i had to remove the signal lights.

Hi all,

I'm trying to replace my speedo cable, but I can't seem to get the front cover off. I have removed all visible screws, and it loosens, but does not come off. I've also noticed that I may have to remove the turn signal lights as well since the plastic completely surrounds them. Am I missing something simple? TIA!

3
Technical | How To / Re: The Bendix and the Air filter problems????
« on: July 02, 2015, 03:53:56 PM »
Add some wd-40 too?

You could clean the area with WD and then wipe it up well, but I wouldn't combine the two as the WD will break down the grease.

4
Technical | How To / Re: The Bendix and the Air filter problems????
« on: June 29, 2015, 03:46:28 PM »
the kickstand doesnt retract to its original position, maybe something is broken? spring? it was working good for about 5 kicks then it stopped retracting) This being said, what can be wrong with it? broken bendix? it was working fine untill i opened it up to install the new parts.

I had the same problem with the kickstarter and thought for sure something was broken. When I opened it up, everything was fine. I just needed to clean out the kickstart pinion gear and the channel where it spins. I also put in some all purpose grease between the two. After that, worked like new.

5
Agility 125 / Re: less than a week old, and it's not running
« on: June 29, 2015, 03:36:42 PM »
Warranty does not cover towing. And most likely the dealer did not clean your carb. Tell them you want them to go through the entire carb and make sure it's not plugged up. Not much else it would be on a new bike.

Just curious, do dealers ever clean carbs on a brand new bike? I've heard of some kind of material that keeps the float from jostling too much in transit, but then harmlessly dissolves once gasoline is introduced. Do dealers sometime clean a brand new carb to get rid of that? Otherwise, can't imagine why they would clean a brand new carb especially with how small I imagine the margins would be on entry-level bikes.

6
Agility 125 / Re: scooter shuts off while driving
« on: June 22, 2015, 03:37:39 PM »
I had a very similar problem I spent an entire season trying to solve. Replaced almost every system before the stalling finally went away.

The last thing I did that seems to have solved it is removed the emissions system and spent about $5 replacing all the vacuum lines.

Here is my thread about removing the system if you need it: http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=13925.0

7
Technical | How To / Re: Water in gas... intentionally.
« on: May 19, 2015, 08:11:41 PM »
Hi, all.

I've been doing research into fuel additives to improve fuel efficiency, and I ran across the genius of Sir Harry Ricardo. He gave us large parts of the technology that are used even today in modern high-compression engines. In 1921 he patented the Racing Discol 1 and Racing Discol 2 (RD1 and RD2) fuels. Apparently RD1 gave as much as 20% better fuel efficiency, and more power.

It was comprised of 80% ethanol, 10% acetone and 10% water. Apparently, to protect their IP and patent rights, they also added a bit of finely ground bone meal, which confounded chemical analysis, but made the exhaust stink to high heaven. Of course, that needn't be added.

Given that most fuel is 10% ethanol now, that 10% ethanol in regular gasoline can be converted into RD1.

This can be done by adding 47.32 ml of acetone and 47.32 ml of water to each gallon of regular E10 gas. Unless my math is off... please correct me if it is.

So for each fill-up of ~2.5 gallons for a typical scooter, something on the order of 118 ml of water and 118 ml of acetone would be added. A small amount of Lucas upper cylinder lubricant, to ensure fuel lubricity, would also probably be a good idea.

Apparently the complete miscibility of acetone in water and ethanol binds the water to the ethanol, and the ethanol to the gasoline, making a homogeneous mixture that doesn't separate out. The ethanol and acetone add to the octane rating of the pump fuel, while the water provides an expansion medium that far exceeds that of combusting fuel in air (water expands to steam at approximately a 1:1600 ratio, at the same pressure), adding to cylinder pressure.

Given that gasoline itself and the ethanol in the gas are solvents, the relatively mild solvent acetone shouldn't affect any o-rings, gaskets, etc. But it, along with the steam in-cylinder, should help to keep combustion deposits from forming in the cylinder.

What do you guys think? Has anyone tried this?


I've never felt so dumb reading this forum…and that's no small feat!

8
I have seen this on a couple wholesale Chinese sites where you have to buy like 300 of them.

Has anyone found a place to buy ONE? Anyone purchased? They look awesome, but would like to know if it is a quality piece. I would be curious to know if this fits all American market Kymco Agilities (I've seen a photo online of this on an Agility where the bodywork looked slightly different and had an air intake below the light).

I've also read on these forums that some higher intensity bulbs burn the headlight assembly housing. Hopefully, this wouldn't happen with this one.

Any info would be appreciated!

http://www.remastersys.com/sale/pz6e826d2-z58ccd5e-scooter-kymco-agility-50-125-headlight-assy-front-headlight-bulb-12v-25w.html

9
No prob, you get everything ok?

Yep, everything's out and thanks for the direction.

I was going to write an update after a few more weeks of riding to see if the emissions system was in fact the culprit to my months-long mystery stalling issue. So far, so good! Hopefully, that was the final gremlin.

10
Agility 50 / Re: Electric starter works but kick start doesn't
« on: May 13, 2015, 06:06:44 PM »
Bike is from 2011. It is 4T with roughly 7600km in the meter.

I took it out of the winter hibernation like a month before the oil change and it worked before and after the oil change albeit starting was getting tougher after it and then I noticed that the kick start was not getting the job done no more. Kick start used to be surest way to get the scoot going when temperatures were low.
About the variables;
I did put maybe a bit too much oil in the change and took out some oil after few days so that the level was at the middle of the oil stick and not little over the max level.
After the hibernation i did drive few days until I noticed that i needed to add some motor oil (2dl) and transmission oil.

There is indeed spark in the plug, though i am not sure if the spark is strong enough cos I can't compare it to anything. The plug is a Iridium one and cap is right. Carb gets gas so I did not yet clean the gas filter nor check the petcock. Filter is not transparent so I can't see if there is gas there. But I guess there is. Going to check/clean those next then.
I have also changed the air filter to a new one at the same time I changed oil.

The scoot is still starting from the electric starter. I have tuned few times the fuel/air mix and going to still do it more precisely soon.
Intake valve was roughly 0.05mm and exhaust valve under that. I put both to roughly 0.08mm, which is the recommended value here in north. I have order already a new spark wire. There was little brittle in it in the top cover but there seems to be an extra cover underneath it.
I have cleaned the variator and kick start system, bendix etc. and put some grease to the places that require it.

Edit: I also changed the battery after the hibernation cos the old one was pretty done. Got a new 7Ah one to replace the 4Ah original.

When you cleaned/greased, did you put grease on the cylinder seen at the top of this photo? (this is the part that sits in/spins in the transmission cover. Cleaning/greasing this solved my kickstarter problem before. http://www.bikescooterparts.com/7145-8050-large/kickstarter-tandwiel-kymco-agility.jpg

If that part is not clean and greased and won't be able to spin out and turn the engine. Does it feel like it is turning the engine when you use the foot crank?

11
Agility 50 / Re: Electric starter works but kick start doesn't
« on: May 12, 2015, 08:28:22 PM »
How old is your bike?

My first thought was needing a new spark wire. Mine became so brittle after a few years, it basically fell apart. But if you are certain you have spark and your plug is gapped correctly, I would guess it's likely a fuel delivery issue. Can you see if there is fuel in the filter? The fuel petcocks on these sometimes seize up especially after a long period of storage and your carb will get no gas. You can get those here: http://www.partsforscooters.com

Any other variables? How long did it sit before this oil change? You say it did work for a while after the oil change? Did it ever start after cleaning your carb? Did you tune the fuel/air mix screw when you put it back together?

12
Yes, the small hose at the top of the valve cover is the crankcase breather and it NEEDS to get fresh clean air from the airbox, just leave that as it is :) Good luck man, post up with any questions.

Thanks again!

13
Cool, easy job. Next time I do one, I'll make a detailed write up with pics but for now:
A) first pic, cut that large hose and block with a bolt or rubber stopper. (If your feeling ghetto a larger spark plug works great) Done
B) completely remove the large cylinder canister and cut the lines going to it.
C) the "T" that goes to the canister, intake, and petcock you need to re-design so that it goes just from the intake, to the petcock (pro tip you have multiple feet of extra vacuum line from taking the canister out, use it!!!)
D) take the gas tank one way vent off, and route the line from the gas tank vent somewhere clean and out of the way.
Double check that you vacuum line goes just from the intake to petcock, and they are nice and snug. Make sure that you route the gas tank vent slightly ABOVE the level of the gas cap, so in the case of an over-fill it dosent gush out that hose. If you get lost doing it, feel free to post up more pics and I'll walk you through it.

Going to finally do this tonight. One final question. Since we already plugged off the large hose coming from the emissions canister to the bottom of the valve cover (your point A), do I still leave this smaller hose (pictured below) connected to the top of the valve cover and leading to the airbox?




14
I hate to bust your bubble but the only thing a scooter uses less of is gas, emissions are MUCH higher than modern cars. http://carbonpig.com/article/motorcycles-create-more-greenhouse-gas-emissions-suvs
Less gas is the draw, motorcycles and scooters pollute like MOTHERf***ERS. They actually banned scooters in the most dense city's in China because the pollution was so bad. Most newer motorcycles are getting better, with efi and catalytic converters and everything, still worse than a new car. You don't even want to see the chart for two strokes, it's terrible. Particulate pollution is especially bad, it's the main reason for smog, and the particles travel far and wide. I was watching a documentary and some scientists were studying the soot later in Antarctica from mostly diesel, which emit particulate like 2t. Some spots had an inch later of diesel soot (i would imagine coal too). Anyway were doing our part to save gas, lighten congestion, lighten the abuse the roads get, and best of all its just fun!!!

Ha, yeah, my bubble was burst long ago.

I read that viral article a few years back about scooters polluting more than Hummers, but it was very quickly discredited by the way they set up their argument (they used a two stroke which are definitely the minority these days) and they mentioned nothing of the total carbon footprint. I agree that 4 strokes are still not great compared to cars with catalytic converters, buuut there is still a large argument to be made about total carbon footprint and product life cycle from creation to disposal. Obviously those cars do a ton of catching up there.

That said, I guess I was just curious if anyone knew if removing the emissions canister made a huge difference or if it was a negligible difference. I know I've wasted a lot of gas driving to auto parts stores in my car when the scooter is not running correctly (likely due to that damn system).

15
Thanks again for all the advice! Just curious, how much worse are these bikes now emissions-wise after removing this system. I know it's small in the scheme of things, but the extremely low carbon footprint of a scooter is part of the draw/fun for me.

Too bad these systems seem to cause so many problems. It sounds like all who do this think it's very worth it in how the bike runs afterward.

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