Author Topic: Instruments Not working But Mobile phone red light, Battery light ect ON  (Read 6957 times)

ptingib

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Hi all,  ive had another look at the bike this morning trying to locate the earth and any problems with the connections but have been unsuccessful.   I've attached photos of my issue with the strange warning lights and the fuel empty light on with none of the dials working.  Please please please if anyone can offer some more advice on what I should do it would be much appreciated.


ptingib

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pics

ptingib

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hi these are the wires that i can see.

xsel777

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If I recollect, there is a big earth wire from the starter motor, towards the rear of the engine.
the photos you posted, the third one, the regulator with earth wire connection is right there where you stood to take that photo, behind the painted plastic bodywork.
You have to remove a lot of plastic to get to it.
Starting with the metallic silver plastic part  around the rear footpeg, and is clipped and screwed into the footwell(it is only there to look pretty) ,it has two screws each side. Once unscrewed, you manouver it out from the front, there are two big plastic clips by the front screw.
Then work the two big clips at the rear, in order to lift it up and out over the footpeg.
Once they are out the way, now you can work on the painted plastic under the the foot well.
Could be 8 screws each side, and another two under the from wheel arch.
You pull it from the rear, there is a clip, then you can peal it away from the rear moving forward.
You can leave the fairing on, as you dislodge it from the fairing, like a puzzle piece at that point.
Ok, now the foot well, 4 or 6 x 10mm bolts, and you unclip it from the front. it is flexible, so you won't break it.
Now you can get to the long bolt holding the front of the painted body (if that bolt  was visible earlier, you would still have to remove all the plastic because the foot well blocks that part of the side painted body).
Pull it away from the front side to get access to the regulator and the earth wires.

This is from memory, as I have done it many many many many many times, lol.

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« Last Edit: June 11, 2019, 01:42:07 PM by xsel777 »
2010 Kymco Xciting 500Ri-Dark Blue

ptingib

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thank you very much for the advice,  im going to have to have another look at it tomorrow morning before work.  As you know it is like a jigsaw and it takes ages by yourself.  I also seem to loose alot of nuts and screws when im on the pavement outside my house.  thank you again and will update asap.  i love my kymco the best maxi scooter ive ever had.  much better build quality of my gilera and aprilia from years ago.

xsel777

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Yep, This 500 is a great machine. Mine is almost ready to ride again as it is in the workshop.
The first time took me hour and a half, but now, I can do it in 15 min. So will you with practise.

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2010 Kymco Xciting 500Ri-Dark Blue

ptingib

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i love this scooter my only complaint is that its a real issue starting from cold in the winter.  I live 10 km from AFRICA and its currently 35 c degrees (centigrade)  very hot but in winter i can dip to zero (centigrade) and the bike will not start until the sun warms it up.   I read on the forum this is why they discontinued the 500cc.  Id love the new ak550 but it costs as much as a car here in Europe.  and to be honest Id have to pick the Yamaha or a Honda DCT.   Im pleased kymco are building better scooters but they cant charge premium prices as they unfortunately they are no where near japanese quality.   my scoot has done 55,000km and ive been fixing it since 20,000km.   I also ride in the mountain near ronda and the single motor does not like altitude at all been up to 3000m and it could not go over 5,000 rpm.   Even the 250cc motorbikes over take !!!!

xsel777

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yep, that cold start problem. I have a gel battery with higher CCA, and that has helped. To fix that cold start problem I replaced regulator, Starter, solenoid, and the alternator(or whatever they call that on a bike).
If you can park it inside a garage, then that first morning  start won't be so bad.
I also used to have a trickle charger running every night, but I find I don't need it anymore, since I got the gell battery.

I cant comment on high altitude riding, but mine is the AFI model (no carburettor).
I would have thought that the computer would compensate for the thin air.

How is uphill ridings, hills that are in town, and not on mountain ranges?


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2010 Kymco Xciting 500Ri-Dark Blue

ptingib

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up hill on a normal road its great,  the twisties and mountain road its crap as the single cylinder just cant keep up with geared bikes or even the twin tmax.  will crack on with working on the bike tomorrow.  i have 2 weeks to sort this out.

ptingib

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hi all Im still having a nightmare with the bike. I've removed as much a i can but will have to refer to the workshop manual to get the final white piece of fairing off an ive seem to have taken off all the visible bolts/screws but its still fixed so,somewhere and is not moving.

Even if/when I get it off Im not 100% sure what ill be going after that except checking cables and ensuring that everything is secured and connected correctly.  I have also noticed that the registration light at the back does not work so ill be replacing the bulb on that I know that this could not be the cause of the issue as i have the entire front end disconnected and the warning lights on the instrument panel are the same AND the bike fires up correctly as well.

As I mentioned before the irony is that with the oil change and mini service the bike is running like a dream, if it was not for the instrument panels not working the bike would be perfect.

CROSSBOLT

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The big deal on connectivity, as I am sure you are aware, that just because a connection looks good, means nothing! Ground points especially. You have to disconnect each one to clean each lug and the stud on the frame. Use silcone dielectric grease on each lug and stud before reconnecting. Unplug each connector (ALL OF THEM!) and apply that grease to the female ends. That way the male gets greased on reconnection. You already did the hard part! You got most of the Kymco "Tupperware" off! No instructions that make sense are in the service manuals!
Karl

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Agility 50
Yager 200i
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ptingib

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Hi Ive never heard of silcone dielectric grease, so it will be very interesting trying to get some here in Spain.!!!  will go the shops on Monday to see whats available. noting is open on sunday here in Andalusia.

CROSSBOLT

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That silicone dielectric grease is an auto parts store item in the states. Don't know where in Spain. But hey! The country that can Montesa and Bultaco got to have it somewhere!
Karl

Three motorcycles 1960-1977 (restored a 1955 BSA)
Agility 50
Yager 200i
Downtown 300i
Navy tech, Ships Engineer, pilot and aircraft mechanic

ptingib

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hi all i spent a couple of hours on the scooter this morning.  I located main earth cable by finding it on the owners manual.  I disconnected, cleaned the area and cable and re fitted it with no change or improvements.   Apart from buying and applying the silicone paste on all connections im rapidly running out of ideas on how to solve my problem.   If there are any alternative solutions to my instrument display problem please do let me know.   many thanks in advance for any help.  im getting desperate as im running out of possible solution's and its feels like there is no light at the end of the tunnel.

CROSSBOLT

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I think there are two gounding points: one on the frame, machine right forward of reg-rect. and one up front. This based on the idea of how Kymco does things with similar types of models. That silicone paste is definitely in order as the next step after the second ground point. Don't give up now! You got all the panels off!
Karl

Three motorcycles 1960-1977 (restored a 1955 BSA)
Agility 50
Yager 200i
Downtown 300i
Navy tech, Ships Engineer, pilot and aircraft mechanic

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