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Does the face plate of a variator affect performance? I'm referring room the toothed drive face. If so what are some options, and has anyone run "performance" drive faces?

So I'm tossing around the idea of selling the 9 to buy guns Not sure what to ask for it. I'm currently the second owner. The bike is in nearly showroom condition. It has always used Amsoil synthetic since new and has many tasteful modifications and upgrades.

 Here's all the dirty dirt:
 2007 Super 9 72 AC 2,525 original Kms.
 Malossi 72cc kit with at most 200 kms. Proper prei-nstallation work done such as wrist pin oiling holes drilled in piston bosses, all port edges smoothed and debured, piston and jug skirts were dressed and chamfered, and polished piston crown.
 Technigas RS II chrome exhaust
 Ported & polished 21mm intake
 Dellorto rep-PHBG 19mm w/: custom Inconel Velocity Stack, YetiMoto
 Pull  choke, 110 main jet, 48 idle, AU Spray nozzle & atomizer
 Carbonfiber reeds
 NGK spark plug
 Orange coil & lead
 Casoli CDI
 Extra ground cables added
 New battery
 Timing pickup advancement mod
 Modified CVT cover
 DLH performance variator w/ 7g rollers
 Koso/Scooter Assassin's unrestricted drive boss
 Gates Kevlar drive belt
 Modified  (extended ramps) Drive pulley
 Hoca roller bearing spring base
 Red 2000 rpm contra spring
 Yellow 1500 rpm fly springs
 Digital tuning tach
 USB power/charging port
 Giving detachable top case with luggage rack
 
Tires have great tread left, always filled with premium 93 gas, I'm sure I'm forgetting some stuff but you get the Idea. Anyway I have a number in mind but we'll see.
 
 

Just wanting to get an idea of those who would be interested in a group buy of custom carbon fiber CVT covers. I want to approach one of my instructors in the composites shop about making the covers, but naturally it would have to be worth his while to make this happen.  Final costs are YTD but should be under $300. Covers will be made out of aircraft grade dry carbon which is considerably lighter and stronger then wet layup CF. If this materializes, a deposit would most likely be required for materials and setup. Post up if seriously interested. Looking to get this going this month. Thanks

Being in the aviation field occassionally has its perks. For instance having access to exotic materials such as carbonfibre, arimid (kevlar), inconel and titanium. So a couple days ago I was rumaging tbrough a crate of parts and came across a section of inconel exhaust tubing. I took one look at the flange and knew what to use it for. A velocity stack for my scoot!!! I still need a section of rubber or silicone radiator hose and a hose clamp to mount it but heres what I made:









All polished up. I sprayed it with a coat of clear which slightly grey'd the color, but no pics.



I also decided not to waste $15 on an aftermarket fan when I could just paint mine to acheive the same look. I sprayed it with aircraft grade epoxy sptay paint... Should last





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Hello fellow super 9 junkies. It's your local forum Bigfoot here with a quick DIY. Let me preface by saying yes I'm aware the design could have been more creative and better looking, but that wasnt really the goal for this exercise. I wanted to perform this mod using only NON-specialized tools that are common to most everyday mechanics/hobbiest's. With that said I will include alternative tools that could be used if you are so fortunate to have access to.  The list of materials used in this demonstration are:
1. Stock clutch bell
2. Bench vise (not required)
3. Angle grinder w/cutting wheel (Dremmel can be used, more on that later)
4. Dremmel style rotary tool with various sanding drums, Dimond ginding bits, Dimond cutting discs
5. JB weld epoxy (Real welder if available)
6. High temp paint of your choosing (I used Ford Engine grey 500°)
7.  Socket set, screw drivers, pliers, etc.. as needed to take CVT cover & clutch bell on/off.
8. Fine tip sharpie pen
9. Small strait edge or compass
10. Safety glasses

Let us assume the the CVT cover and clutch bell have already been removed. First thoroughly clean the clutch bell to remove any gime/grease. Next lay out a design on the clutch bell using your sharpie pen and appropriate measuring devices. Once the design has be made and will not weaken the structural integrity of the bell, place the clutch bell in a bench vise with any means available to ensure the edges/face doesn't get scored up. Once secured in the vise and you have proper eye protection, use your angle grinder w/cutting wheel to make your rough cuts. An air operated riciprocating saw would be ideal here. Once your rough cuts are made the tedious work begins. Since the grinding wheel I used was too large at 4.5in dia, the are several over cuts in places I don't want them to be. This is where the JB weld (or real welder come into play). I started on the hub area first as I knew there wouldn't be any more cutting or shaping to this area. Using the JB weld epoxy, fill in the over cuts. Don't worry about excess epoxy as it will be sanded flush later. Once the epoxy has set up for 10 mins or so, you can now work with the piece without making a mess.  The next step is by and far the most important and time consuming. Using your dremmel, begin removing the areas of metal that were not first removed during the rough cut process. I alternated between a course grit sanding drum, corse grit Dimond grinder bit, and a Dimond cutting/grinding wheel. As it turns out the sanding drum was most effective for removing larger amounts of material while also providing a smooth surface free of snags and bur's that can really hurt your little digits. After several hours, you should be done grinding/sanding and ready to finish up. Once the metal removal is done you can now fill all the other over cuts from the first rough cut, using your JB weld. Once the epoxy has set 10-15 mins, use your dremmel with Dimond cutting disc (for edges/corners) & sanding drums (for larger/flat surfaces) and remove any excess epoxy left over from filling. After you have removed all the extra epoxy and are satisfied with the end result, you are now ready to clean the clutch bell and thoroughly dry the part before painting.  Using several light coats of paint instead of one heavy coat, cover the out side surface of the clutch bell entirely. Try not to get paint directly into the spine area of the hub. Once the paint is dry you are ready to reinstall everything and enjoy. I hope this helps inspire others and erasure that there are alternatives to buying aftermarket parts. Now for those lucky enough to have shops woth great tools, I recommend using a die grinder for excess metal removal, air operated riciprocating saw for design cutting, mig or tig welder for and filling that may occur, a 90° grinder with sanding/scotchbrite pad for finishing and de burring. I orignally began this mod using only my dremmel and dimond cutting discs. The metal on the bell was too much of an adversary and took over an hour to make one cut completly through. Needless to say, that there was a better way (abiet not as clean and percise.. enter angle grinder lol) Thanks for reading.

Im looking to upgrade the carb in my 07 AC. Ive narrowed my options to two possible offerings from Dellorto. The first being a manual choke PHBG 19 DS black and the other being a PHVA12 19mm auto-choke. My questions are what are the pros and cons to converting to manual choke or staying with an auto-choke system. I would also be interested in any reviews of either of these carbs from those who my have used/are using them. Lastly do either of these carburetors have provisions for oil injection or will I have to start adding oil to the gas tank? Thanks in advance.

I picked up an S9 a few months back. The bike seemed stock other then the Technigas exhaust. The bike ran very well. Pulling hard out of the hole and all the way to 70Km. I wanted to get just a little more out of it (80km) because it would certainly help me not die in the traffic areas I ride. I bought an unrestricted Boss, thinking this would move the belt higher on the variator and give that slight increase I need. I disassembled everything and installed the new CVT boss. I noticed my stock boss was the same length and was void of the "restriction ridge" (it did have a grove though). The installation was strait forward but I also noticed that there were only 5 roller weights in my CVT    I installed everything as should be and the bike ran more poorly. I  rode the bike for a few days at the slower speed and then switched bosses back. Still ran poorly.  After a month or so of playing with roller weights, carb adjust ments, larger jets, drilled airbox, etc.. needless to say the bike was waaaay out!!!  I've since ordered the correct 7.5g rollers that were originally in the CVT, I've taped off the airbox cut-out, reverted back to the #75 main jet that was in the carb, and have been trying to adjust the air screw and throttle stop screws to the correct settings. The bike is for all intent and purposes is returned to stock as I bought it. ....The bike runs like crap still! WTF? 

My questions are:
Would TQ specs on the main variator nut &/or clutch nut affect performance?
What are the proper turns for the air-screw & throttle-stop screws?  (manual says 1.5?)
Does air-screw-throttle stop adjustments drastically affect the performance?  Seems like "duh, yes!" but the reason I ask is because I've never had an issues before and can tune scoot carbs very well by ear.
My bike doesn't seem to want to shift gears and bogs down. It revs, runs and sounds nice statically and when at 1/8-1/4 throttle runs very badly and seems stuck in gear.

Thanks for reading and I know Ive broken the most basic rules of tuning so please dont break my balls for it. I just really need help or my wife wants me to sell my scoot   Thanks in advance.