KymcoForum.com
General => Technical | How To => Topic started by: OGBillyT63 on February 20, 2014, 01:11:54 PM
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I tried to check the bystarter on my 2006 Kymco Bet and Win 250 by taking it out before start up, then measuring the plunger ,then reinstalled the bystarter and started the scooter up and ran it until warmed up(10-15min). After warm up I wanted to remove the bystarter in order to measure the length of the plunger to see if it changed. I tried to pull the bystarter out after removing the hold down screw, but the plunger seemed to be stuck and I didn't want to force it out so I reinstalled it. Is this a normal thing or not? I know that the bystarter works off the carb as I tested it by direct hook up to my battery.
Thanks all
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What is a "bystarter"?
Karl
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The bystarter is what it is called, but it is a choke so to speak. For the initial cold start the plunger allows more fuel into the carb and once the bystarter gets warm the plunger shuts off that fuel supply to the carb and then the fuel should come from the slow jet, the main jet and some from the idle mixture screw at least to my knowledge.
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OGB, do you have a service manual for your scoot??
There is a step-by-step in it.. Basically you will need a multimeter to measure the resistance...
..also, if it's anything like the Agility, (4t) after removing the retainer screws and retaining clip, there is an o-ring seal... That is likely the resistance you felt...
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..I gleaned this from my super9 service manual...
AUTO BYSTARTER INSPECTION
Measure the resistance between the auto
bystarter wire terminals.
Resistance: 5ohm (10 minutes minimum
after stopping the engine)
If the resistance exceeds 5ohm, replace the
auto bystarter with a new one.
After the engine stops for 30 minutes,
connect a hose to the fuel enriching circuit
and blow the hose with mouth.
If air cannot be blown into the hose
(clogged), the auto bystarter is faulty.
Replace it with a new one.
Connect the auto bystarter yellow wire to
the battery positive (+) terminal and green/
black wire to the battery negative (-)
terminal and wait 5 minutes.
Connect a hose to the fuel enriching circuit
and blow the hose with mouth.
If air can be blown into the hose, the auto
bystarter is faulty and replace it with a new
one.
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When I tried to pull the bystarter out it was past the O ring so the only thing that was stuck was the plunger. I did do the test when I had the carb off with the by starter attached hooked up to the battery with the blow test after warmed up ( the bystarter actually gets hot) and also after it cooled down and that test worked. Did not check with ohm meter , not sure if I have the correct meter to do that test. I do have a manual.
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This is another of those scooter things that are so cheap to replace it's not worth getting too involved in the details. When the wires are connected to a battery, the brass needle-valve should extend about 3mm after 5 minutes or so. If it doesn't, then throw it away and buy a new one. They rarely fail, and the clearest sign of failure is your scoot won't start. The needle will never get stuck in the carb body, so if it doesn't come out of its socket, just give it a good yank.
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..15 scoots...I've never had a faulty auto-bystarter...
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ah, Bystarter=autochoke=black thingy buried on the side of the carb with one wire to it. OK, I got it.....
Karl
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ah, Bystarter=autochoke=black thingy buried on the side of the carb with one wire to it. OK, I got it.....
Karl
...grasshhopperr....
;)