KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 125 to 300 => Downtown 300 => Topic started by: vgrafx on November 11, 2016, 05:26:52 PM
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Any recommendations on Front Brake Pads, Organic or Metallic? Brand?
How long should pads last mileage wise estimate??
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I would go organic, you can use sintered but I've never had a good experience with them. Brake pads can last a very long time, but you replace them when you need to or less than 2mm remaining. The front brake pads of the DT are quite common and cheap.
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I would go organic, you can use sintered but I've never had a good experience with them. Brake pads can last a very long time, but you replace them when you need to or less than 2mm remaining. The front brake pads of the DT are quite common and cheap.
Wooow what happened to you with sintered pads?
I bought a set of double sintered ebc's for the future when time comes. First time with thoose, bought tinking they were the ultimate thing. [emoji15]
Enviado desde mi iPhone utilizando Tapatalk
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I had ebc sintered pads. They didn't seem to be better than the organic pads.
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It depends what you want.
The best performace ones are the HH rated. One level down are GG rated. That rating is based on the friction coefficient.
I have tried both and honestly, the difference is noticeable but minimal.
Organic pads will be more rotor friendly.
But stay away from Goldfren pads. They eat up your rotors!
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To add to this, I have been on VESRAH Organic pads for a year (15,000km). The same set of pads! Seems she can go another 5000km.
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I was wondering about my back brake pad. One side I can see there is still alot even after 10,000 km's but one side I can't see well or it appears pretty thin. Is it just that one one side you can't see it well enough to compare it to the other side? Front I can see both sides well and have lots still.
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Our DT uses sliding calipers. Meaning only one side of the caliper houses the piston.
So one side will generally wear faster than the other.
You need to monitor the pad such as the faster wearing side is the pad wear indicator. Replace both pads at the same time.
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OK thanks so I think I may need new back pads than. Getting pretty close. You think I can handle changing the pad myself. Is it a really big job to do this? :) Shouldn't be to bad hey.
Our DT uses sliding calipers. Meaning only one side of the caliper houses the piston.
So one side will generally wear faster than the other.
You need to monitor the pad such as the faster wearing side is the pad wear indicator. Replace both pads at the same time.
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It's not a big job, remove the caliper. Makes the entire process way easier.
OK thanks so I think I may need new back pads than. Getting pretty close. You think I can handle changing the pad myself. Is it a really big job to do this? :) Shouldn't be to bad hey.
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Was just looking at the manual online and they say I need to remove the muffler and fender?? :P
It's not a big job, remove the caliper. Makes the entire process way easier.
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Was just looking at the manual online and they say I need to remove the muffler and fender?? :P
Was just looking at the manual online and they say I need to remove the muffler and fender?? :P
My LIKE200i on lline manual freq says to remove more stuff than is absolutely necessary. I found enough room behind muffler to screw out caliper holding bolts, leaving exhaust in place. Could not remove bolts from holes....but things were un screwed so i could lift out caliper to play with the pads.
Slip caliper back onto disc after pushing back pads for clearance....bolt it back up!
Maybe you have room enough to do same?
Stig
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Yes, I should be OK I have very petite hands to work with to. :)
My LIKE200i on lline manual freq says to remove more stuff than is absolutely necessary. I found enough room behind muffler to screw out caliper holding bolts, leaving exhaust in place. Could not remove bolts from holes....but things were un screwed so i could lift out caliper to play with the pads.
Slip caliper back onto disc after pushing back pads for clearance....bolt it back up!
Maybe you have room enough to do same?
Stig
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Well Stig, I can see I need the right tool to get in there! Nothing have have will work. So yeah it can easily be done with the right tool.
My LIKE200i on lline manual freq says to remove more stuff than is absolutely necessary. I found enough room behind muffler to screw out caliper holding bolts, leaving exhaust in place. Could not remove bolts from holes....but things were un screwed so i could lift out caliper to play with the pads.
Slip caliper back onto disc after pushing back pads for clearance....bolt it back up!
Maybe you have room enough to do same?
Stig
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Video linked here to change the rear brake pads. It only takes 15 minutes if you have the right tools. There is no need to remove the fender, only move it up.
Exhaust bolts and caliper bolts are 14mm and 12mm.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ya2Rr3JYk5w (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ya2Rr3JYk5w)
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Awesome will have a look now. :)
Video linked here to change the rear brake pads. It only takes 15 minutes if you have the right tools. There is no need to remove the fender, only move it up.
Exhaust bolts and caliper bolts are 14mm and 12mm.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ya2Rr3JYk5w (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ya2Rr3JYk5w)
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Oh yes, saw this. :)
Awesome will have a look now. :)