KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 125 to 300 => LIKE 200i => Topic started by: ues61 on June 24, 2015, 01:35:06 AM
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Clutch is starting to slip...
Figure while have it open, might as well switch to performance parts, budget permitting. Does anyone have any recommendations on which parts (Malosi, Dr Pulley, others) works best for the 200i? Kevlar belts, variators, clutch/bell, etc.
Please post the part numbers you had put on, and your first hand experience - faster acceleration, higher top speed, etc.
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Clutch is starting to slip...
K
Figure while have it open, might as well switch to performance parts, budget permitting. Does anyone have any recommendations on which parts (Malosi, Dr Pulley, others) works best for the 200i? Kevlar belts, variators, clutch/bell, etc.
Please post the part numbers you had put on, and your first hand experience - faster acceleration, higher top speed, etc.
How many miles on your LIKE200i?
Everything I've read says to use the OEM KYMCO belt. Nothing is better quality.
Add an iridium NGK, and some Dr Pulley sliders (13,14,15 gm? depending on what you're after)
Cannot speak to other mods.
Stig
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If I had to switch, I probably would switch totally to the dr. pulley products (variator, sliderolls 12,5 to 13g, slide pieces, HIT clutch).
For the belt I would only accept brand BANDO or MITSUBOSHI. Both are solid Japan Technology. OEM Kymco Belt is a BANDO.
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Inspect your clutch first. If it has material left.. sand paper clutch asembly and bell.. then clean if with brake cleaner and its 80% chances its solved.
How many milea uve got on your kymco right now?
I only changed the rollers and did some sliders.. mine is a 125 and a user recomended a 13gr... oem are 13.4gr. The results are outstanding!!
Never tried a performance variator.. but i did reserch. If you will use sliders dr pulley is the way.. rollers malossi or jcosta if you want to experinent with something different from the rest.
I find the dr pulley road easier. You can start with sliders.. if you are pleased and still want some more you get the variator from them.
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@beermak
Haven't taken it apart yet. But, will do as suggested. Bike has ~ 6k miles. Looking for parts that would up the acceleration and top speed, perhaps the two are contradictory.
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Anyone know the weight of the OEM rollers that come on our Like's?
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https://www.buggypartsnw.com/index.php/buggy-parts/150cc-buggy-parts/150cc-transmission/dr-pulley-variator-181401-gy6-125-150.html (https://www.buggypartsnw.com/index.php/buggy-parts/150cc-buggy-parts/150cc-transmission/dr-pulley-variator-181401-gy6-125-150.html)
Get this and some 11g Dr Pulley sliders and you will feel a pretty decent improvement. Stock rollers are 13g. If you only have 6k your clutch is fine, they last over 50k. Like said above, check for oil on the bell and scuff the pads. I would stay away from the HIT clutch, it is not as smooth as stock off the line and REALLY hard to tune it in right, and until you do it feels worse than stock. OEM belts are the way to go, others have tolerances that are crazy, they will come 10mm longer and 2mm skinnier than the OEM belts.
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Stock rollers are 13.5g for the Like 200i! Checked and verified!
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Stock rollers are 13.5g for the Like 200i! Checked and verified!
Thanks for checking on that. I think Stig posted the specs on one of his early mods post, but I couldn't locate the info. Again, thanks you!
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When I think of performance the Like 200 does not enter the picture, to me the like is like a chev impala or Malibu. Not a Camaro or a stang.
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Thanks for checking on that. I think Stig posted the specs on one of his early mods post, but I couldn't locate the info. Again, thanks you!
I got that from here:
http://beedspeed.com/html-pages/variator-roller-weights-chart.htm (http://beedspeed.com/html-pages/variator-roller-weights-chart.htm)
(think I'll post this as a new thread
Stig
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Any idea where the pry-points are for the transmission cover?
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Very easy to spot. U'll have 2 in both ends of the cover. Be carefull not to scratch.. use a screwdriver with a cloth or something that will protect the cover
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I just wack them with a rubber mallet while pulling on the kicker.
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I just wack them with a rubber mallet while pulling on the kicker.
No kick lever on a LIKE200i.
I think my old CVT belt.replacement post has pix of the pry points. I was concerned about breaking a chunk out of the cover since this was the first time factory installedcover was coming off....VERY tight. Used drywall spatula in the seams to eventually free it.....had a new gasket for reinstalling. Cover was very tight from factory!!
Stig
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There are atleast 2 prypoints. One is next to the upper left bolthole of the cvt beltcase and the other one is next to the upper right bolthole of the cvt beltcase near the damper. A third one might be used also. It´s on the bottom of the CVT beltcase. This prypoint can be pushed with a long and large skrewdriver and a hammer from the other side of the scooter.
But after all I took the quickest and easiest road... I had no special pry tool, so I just took a pipe-wrench or an open end spanner and put it underneath that upper right pry point near the damper and leanded the wrench/spanner towards the damper mounting and applied some hits with a hammer on the other end of the wrench. Started with light hits, and increased the hit force little by little. And suddenly, I could manage to crack that gasketand beltcover loose without damaging anything. The rest is selfexplaining. -> Cleaning everything inside with a dry brush or airpressure. I would not recommend to work with breakcleaner there, because of the crankshaft and the gear seals.
Paper Gasket unfortunately will be destroyed at the first time because it´s glued on by factory. For what senseless reason ever...
So you will either need a new one, or you might use some silicone to put that back together.
I bought a new gasket and treated it with grease and never seeze. So that it will come off the next time undamaded and easily - hopefully.
And Stig wrote an extremly professional and good tutorial here in this forum for all the works on the CVT. Use it.
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Get this and some 11g Dr Pulley sliders and you will feel a pretty decent improvement. Stock rollers are 13g. If you only have 6k your clutch is fine, they last over 50k. Like said above, check for oil on the bell and scuff the pads. I would stay away from the HIT clutch, it is not as smooth as stock off the line and REALLY hard to tune it in right, and until you do it feels worse than stock. OEM belts are the way to go, others have tolerances that are crazy, they will come 10mm longer and 2mm skinnier than the OEM belts.
Do you need a Dr Pulley (DP) variator to use the DP sliders? Or, will the OEM variator suffice -- assuming you get the right size? Will try 11g, as suggested, and post the feedback.
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Get this and some 11g Dr Pulley sliders and you will feel a pretty decent improvement. Stock rollers are 13g. If you only have 6k your clutch is fine, they last over 50k. Like said above, check for oil on the bell and scuff the pads. I would stay away from the HIT clutch, it is not as smooth as stock off the line and REALLY hard to tune it in right, and until you do it feels worse than stock. OEM belts are the way to go, others have tolerances that are crazy, they will come 10mm longer and 2mm skinnier than the OEM belts.
Do you need a Dr Pulley (DP) variator to use the DP sliders? Or, will the OEM variator suffice -- assuming you get the right size? Will try 11g, as suggested, and post the feedback.
The dr pulley sliders will work great with stock variator.
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Thanks to all for their feedback and assistance.
Hope some of this would help future DIYers:
Used a RYOBI P261 Impact Driver - really made the job easier than expected.
Used a set of pry bars from Amazon - search W2020 pry bar
1) I elected to "clean" the clutch and bell, upon inspection - some oil and grime developed, and used a wire brush to lightly clean the inside bell and the clutch material. The jerkiness at slow speed went away, it now has some smoothness to it when launching gently (eg. in heavy stop and go traffic).
2) Replaced the stock rollers with 11g Dr Pulley sliders, cleaned out the stock variator and reassembled. No grease in the cradles, as per some of the advice I read in this and other forums. Observations: a. it accelerates significantly better than stock, and spends most of its time in the "throaty" section of the RPM band. b. top speed @ full throttle was reduced to ~55-56 mph, but it is quick to get there, and roll-on power is crisp 30->40, 40->50. I may tinker with 13g next season. The acceleration/speed profile with 11g is great for urban streets and the odd 40/55 mph freeways.
In my haste, I took the CVT cover off without noting the routing of the duct, attached to the cover. Can someone please describe or take a picture of how this is routed, and where does it ultimately end up? Is it suppose to be some fresh air intake for the CVT components?
Didn't bother replacing the gasket, and torqued the retaining bolts from the center, working towards the outer ones.
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I routed by instinct.. tried to find the easiest way. Its not going to make any difference. Basically needs to get air for the cvt.
My stock where 13.5 and went by recomendation to sliders in 13 gr. Got same top end better take offs. Very happy with the result! Maybe will try 12 just to fool.. but 13's worked very well
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My rollers had flat spots and what seemed to be gouges on them. I installed 14.5 gram sliders. I don't recommend them. It felt like I was starting off in 3rd gear. The bike seemed to cruise better at around 45_50 mph, but it was a chore to get there.
I bought 13.5 g sliders on Amazon. Much better acceleration. Top end to 60 on straight and level, no wind. Climbing hills is about the same as stock, 13s would probably help out more on that. I may ride up the mountains to test it out. I may try 13s down the road, as a test. Right now, the bike runs great on city streets. I can keep up with traffic from a stop and comfortably ride the streets at 45-50 mph with throttle to spare.
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2) Replaced the stock rollers with 11g Dr Pulley sliders, cleaned out the stock variator and reassembled. No grease in the cradles, as per some of the advice I read in this and other forums. Observations: a. it accelerates significantly better than stock, and spends most of its time in the "throaty" section of the RPM band. b. top speed @ full throttle was reduced to ~55-56 mph, but it is quick to get there, and roll-on power is crisp 30->40, 40->50. I may tinker with 13g next season. The acceleration/speed profile with 11g is great for urban streets and the odd 40/55 mph freeways.
After > 1 months. I reverted back to the stock rollers. It's a matter of preference, really. But, needed something more on the top speed to keep up with highway traffic.