KymcoForum.com
Scooters - 125 to 300 => LIKE 200i => Topic started by: manoverboard on November 04, 2016, 07:00:55 PM
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Looking for forum help.
Been lurking for a little while on these forums. I have 2 running 200i (2013 red and 2014 blue and white LX) and picked up a non-running 2014 200i as a project. (can't get enough can we?)
So, I have read and tried all the advice on getting it to run with no luck at all. The battery was low when I got it, so, charged overnight.
It turns over, but won't run. The CELP code was 12 so I replaced the fuel pump (the eBay one in other forums).
Replaced battery, replaced spark plug(iridium), cleaned tank and put in fresh gas. Now the fuel pump runs continuously, checked the fuel pump relay with one from another same year 200i and is OK. It will sometimes start, run for about 5-10 seconds, then dies like fuel starved. The CLEP now does not come on for initialization, but gives 1 blink when turning over. Also checked the fuel injector and has a ohm reading of 14.8 instead of 11.7. Replace? Also I've done all the resets I have read about...
HELP!!! dealer here is a no-go-to.
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Hang tight. I have never experienced that type of problem. I sure that someone will be of some help. I had a fouled plug once. Other than that, I am no help.
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Sounds like you need to use the Kymco analyzer tool to check all the EFI parameters. Do you have access to the Like service manual?
Karl
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Yes, I do have the manual. Printed and online. I also have a help 'ticket' into cyclopedia but haven't gotten a response yet.
I think this is why I am "almost at my wits end". :'(
I am going to contact my local hackers, ahem, dealer and see if they have the Kymco analyzer and how much for the diagnostic test.
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Can we get some more basics on this scooter?
Service history, if any.
Miles?
Wrecked?
Flood damaged?
KILL switch?
Tried starting with known good battery from other LIKE? Some EFI'd scoots need very good battery.
It seems to me that there are a number of things that could make your scooter run poorly (plug, gas, etc.) - but fewer that could prevent it from starting.
That injector reading makes the injector suspect, true. They run about $70 I think. But it could be partially clogged, or is malfunctioning. Is it attached correctly, snug, with clip, holder & O ring, etc. in place?
Brake switches operating correctly - seeing a good brake light when squeezed? (cheap part that stops a lot of scoots from starting)
Have the valves been adjusted correctly? (lack of compression)
Have you seen a good spark with plug against frame?
Tried starting with gas cap loose?(doubtful)
Looked for intake air leak? (throttle body area, everything snug)
Doubt if it's the aircleaner - these things never get dirty on a LIKE.
You could swap over the throttle body assembly (with the ECU) from your running LIKE200i to rule out that issue. That 12 code may have been from the throttle body/ECU unit.
My suspects would be, in order :
battery
Brake switches
check for good spark
valve adjustment
injector clogged or bad (swap one from good scooter to rule out)
throttle body/ECU assembly (caution, the eBay seller wants as much for his used as a new costs)
please keep us in the loop.
Regards, Stig
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Thanks Stig for the input help.
It is a 2014 with 702 miles. Dealer serviced at 500 miles by previous owner. She had a minor crash, fall over which scared her and hence it sat for over a year.
Checked the electrics, all the lights work OK including brake lights.
What is confusing to me was after a fresh battery was installed the CELP worked as should: on for 2 secs then off. The fuel pump was not working at that point, so it was replaced with a new pump (yamaha pump from eBay), also new iridium spark plug. Now the fuel pump pumps continuously and does not shut off like the other Likes. CELP light does not go on at all when switched to ON. When starter button is pushed, engine turns over fine, CELP is blinking 1 time very few seconds at that point, engine will fire sometimes and run for about 5 seconds then dies like fuel starved. Even tried running with loose gas cap. Old pump screen looked varnished from old gas, so tank was cleaned and fresh gas put in. Fuel pump relay checked with one from other Like. I checked the resistance of the fuel injector and it was on the high side: 15 ohms vs 11.7 in the manual. All intakes were checked and did not need tightening.
How do you check the ECU? Could it be the tip-over switch malfunction? How to reset CELP system?
I don't want to replace too many parts, especially if they are not needed.
I am trying to find anyone nearby that has a Kymco Diagnostic Tool without spending $350 on eBay for one.
Any and all suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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The Kymco fuelpumps are different than the aftermarket pumps. The original pump has also a built in pressure regulator, which communicates with the ECU about the correct fuel pressure. I don´t know if this is important for the correct function of the ECU in general. But just wanted to mention it. Stig also might know more about this.
The CELP LED must go on for about 2 seconds after key on. This is kind of a selftest that the LED is working and is accessed correctly from the ECU. So this is suspicious.
How about the 3 main ground contacts (green) to the engine, the frame and the battery? Are they tight, blank and clean? Well greased? What is the resistance? 0 to max. 0.5 Ohms?
And against some other recommendation here, I personally wouldn´t take relevant parts out of one of your running scooters for testing. You just might end up having 2 no runners afterwards...
And what about that EVAP canister system? Is it clean and dry and works properly? This scooter had a minor crash and has been laid down on the ground for a while and maybe flooded this canister. Didn´t we have already a guy here, who´s scooter also turned into a no runner after he or his relative who borrowed the scooter overfilled the gastank at the gas station?
Checked all vacuum lines from and to the throttlebody?
http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=14741.0 (http://www.kymcoforum.com/index.php?topic=14741.0)
And I guess you will not get around using the diagnostic tool from Kymco.
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Cycle your kill switch a few times. Also check the electrical contacts at the starter motor. I had a bolt come loose on my Like and the contact was just resting on the engine housing. The scooter wouldn't start unless I jumped up and down on it which repositioned the connection and it would start. Even when I did get it to start it sporadically stalled out on me. Once I figured out what the problem was and Stig sent me a replacement bolt all was well again.
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Ok, at 700 miles it ain't the valves way out of adj.
Yamaha fuel pump should not run continuously. Turn on key and wait 15 - 25 sec. ....does it really keep running beyond that? Strange orig. pump quit at 700 miles.?? Leaking injector?
How do we bypass tip over switch?
LIKE200i will sound like it is about to start with kill switch on 'kill' position. But won't.
You've done the two re-set procedures? (Pink wire, and throttle/key things?)
Time to vote.
Will keep working this.
Stig
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Thanks for all the help on this. And, support!
I agree that there must be a problem so that the CELP light is not working properly. And trying to find out a way to reset that system. Have done all the other resets.
I have the manual to reference too!
I have checked out all the tips posted. And everything seems to be OK! grounding wires, canister, etc.
So, tomorrow I am checking on 2 shops that repair Kymcos and see if they have a Diagnostic Tool and what will be the cost to have a check done.
Will keep everyone posted.
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Thanks for all the help on this. And, support!
I agree that there must be a problem so that the CELP light is not working properly. And trying to find out a way to reset that system. Have done all the other resets.
I have the manual to reference too!
I have checked out all the tips posted. And everything seems to be OK! grounding wires, canister, etc.
So, tomorrow I am checking on 2 shops that repair Kymcos and see if they have a Diagnostic Tool and what will be the cost to have a check done.
Will keep everyone posted.
I hope it easily resolved. I look forward to your update.
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I had an Aprilia with similar issue. Would run for a few sec and starve out.
It turned out to be the Vacuum assisted fuel petcock wasnt opening.
It would dribble enough fuel to start then die.
With 700 miles I'd look for the basic issues, fuel, spark, and air
Hope this helps.
Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk
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UPDATE
Well, at this point I took it to a Kymco dealer (not the local one), and waiting to hear back about the diagnostic test ($40).
I will post when I hear something.
And, thanks to all who have offered tips and advice.
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Thanks for the update. ...
You have a lot of LIKE owners watching this outcome!!
($40 to take off the battery cover & plug that thing in...
With a smoke break, I guess it could take 30 mins of shop time.)
Stig
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Well, just got the results of the diagnostics check.
It seems that somehow a switch that is behind the handle bars got disconnected. It controls input to the ECU, which in turns controls the CLEEP lights and system.
They also had diagnosed the fuel system and fuel pump as the non-start, non running problem. They confirmed what Vespbretta mentioned about the built in pressure regulator is needed for the system to start and run.
So, I will be replacing the fuel pump again with a Kymco pump assembly, and see how that goes.
Sorry to say about the aftermarket Yamaha pump not working on this particular Like 200i.
Will keep everyone posted after I install the pump.
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Thanks mob for the update. This adds to our knowledge base of our Likes. Sorry to hear the Yamaha fuel pump will need replacing, but hopefully you'll be up and running soon.
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Yes, sorry to hear that the $60 Highflow 30mm EFI Yamaha fuel pump did not work for you.
Mine works perfectly, and actually seems of better quality...hear it run for a few seconds with key on, then gets quiet. Scoot still starts instantly, every time, without any wait for fuel pump to spool up.
Kymco "fuel pump assembly $200". Cannot buy just the 30mm pump apparently. You will be reinstalling orig. fuel pump, or ? With switch connected will orig. pump now work?
Switch ' behind handlebars' ?? Behind from rider, or behind from front?Brake lever switches? I thought scoot will start and run with only one connected.
Maybe it was kill switch disconnected? That behind...
So, connect switch and replace fuel pump and you are up and running? Please let us know.
Thanks for keeping us informed.
Stig
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**UPDATE**
Hooray!!!..... on the road and running!!
Sorry it took so long to post the update. It was the ECU!!! I also had talked to the previous owner about the Like to maybe get some history / information.
The problems were that the son of the P.O. had tinkered with some things to try and start it. It seems when he went to replace a bent lever, he had unplugged the kill switch partly. #1 problem (and fixed). He apparently had heard to tap the ECU from somewhere, and didn't tap, but hit, and damaged it. (#2 problem fixed by replacement).
The fuel pump was OK, so, the Yamaha replacement is working A OK.
Thanks to all who offered advice and helpful tips!
Merry Christmas to all!
8)
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Great to hear! Were you able to get just the ECU or did you have to get the whole throttle body? When I replaced mine (had the same issue as Stig did) I was only able to get the complete unit.
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Yes, thanks for the update.
Smacking an ECU ? Don't quite get that - isn't that like hammering your head because you've lost your car keys. (few moving parts in a brain that need knocking loose)
But....I am never too surprised at what a youngster will do to a motor vehicle.
Stig
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big blue- of course I had to get the whole unit. But at least now I'm on the road riding it.
* I just wonder that if he would have realized it was just the switch being loose in the first place, so much aggravation and cost could have been avoided.
Thanks everyone for all the help