Skid Plate discussion

[randyo]

used my 450i on a survey job that was logged for views, not merchantable timber, so they cut everything, thankfully, not chain saws, or the cuts on small stuff would have been angled into punji  sticks

mostly 12-15 inches tall, so they pretty much ripped off all my skid plates

dealer quoted me $225 for complete set of stock plastic with mounting bolts or $550, for aluminum

I am told plastic slides over rocks, etc better

is it worth the extra $$ for aluminum ?   pros & cons of each ?

[airshot]

Plastic is slippery and flexible to return to shape.  Alum will dent and not return to shape. If thick enough to not bend then they will be heavy.  Bad part about skid plates is mud....it collects on top of skid plates and builds up so skid plate must be removed and mud makes them very heavy!  Honestly some skid rails would be a better choice, no mud collection and much stronger.  Friend has skids on his quad, and they work very well!  Thinking about making a set for my uxv.  Otherwise , in my opinion stay with plastic, if the alum pkatea are thin, then harsh riding will tear them also. I have replaced my main center skid plate twice. 

[randyo]

I have retired from surveying as of a few months ago, (still cleaning up, and taking on small work) it's doubtful I will ever use my 450i in the situation that I destroyed the skid plates

in general, I am very conscious of how I pass over bumps, rocks, stumps, etc, rarely ever bottom out, and when I do, it's on the edge rail one side or the other, I don't rail thru the trails like some guys on sport machines

I do however get sticks, branches, etc that get caught and drag or poke up ( in my current condition with about 50% skid plate coverage) When I'm using it for firewood logging, after a tree is dropped, and limbed, lotsa times I drive thru the slash, this is my biggest need for underbody protection, I don't think rails would work

 

[airshot]

Sticks can create a different set of circumstances. Even with full set of skid plates, I still worry about sticks poking thru and causing problems, even though I rarely get into sticks. In your situation rails could be a problem. Not sure there is a single solution to all the what if's that could come about.

[randyo]

I went with stock plastic,  all installed, + an extra front/rear piece, Kymco sent an extra with the order ? dealer just gave it to me, said it would be more work to return than the value

[pa-outdoorsman]

I went with stock plastic,  all installed, + an extra front/rear piece, Kymco sent an extra with the order ? dealer just gave it to me, said it would be more work to return than the value

Gotta love that! Sounds like you are good to go.

[Bigpappa]

I have been fighting the skid plates on this bike since I bought it. Went through an extra set now they are just shredded. The bolts used to attach the plates are junk and the design is terrible, the front should over lap the middle plate but with the way it is currently set up there will always be an issue. Had anyone succefully changed over to something else? I am thinking about welding diamond plate the bottom but not sure that is the right solution.

[airshot]

On my machine, the front does overlap the middle. Mine had to be replaced as well due to extreme rock crawling.  My added frame members for my plow mount helps give extra support to the skid plates.  Metal skids have there issues also as they dont flex back and they dont drain so mud and crap continues to build until they pop the bolts.  I have drilled and tapped the factory holes for larger fine thread screws. In some places I added blind nuts, a neat system for adding nuts where you have a blind hole. In some areas I used rubber well nuts for blind holes if rigid support is not needed.  No simple solution to skid plates, it all depends on what type or terrain your riding over!

[Bigpappa]

Interesting. Your sxs is a 450?  Mine meet right under the steering wheel. In my opinion this is probably the highest impact point on the ATV. What happens is anytime there is impact at that point it peels the plastic back. If it was overlapped 6 inches that would not happen. I have added bigger stronger bolts and even added extra bolts by drilling into the frame but it does not help. We do ride some rugged terrain with alot of sticks and what not but nothing extreme. Very dissapointing how terrible it has been in this one area. I have had a alot of problems and overall not need very impressed by the ATV. Customer service has also been abysmal with both kymco and the dealer I bought the bike from.

[airshot]

Sorry to hear that, my machine has held up well and my dealer has been great. I would highly recomend Kymco, but then again it is not designed for extreme conditions, just a utility machine and I use mine that way.

[randyo]

the oem bolts are disappointing, I understand the idea, a bolt that rides flush and doesn't shear like one that protrudes  bit, guess what, they still shear, a more substantial dome shaped bolt would fare better

[pa-outdoorsman]

Yes, they do! I went across a rather steep creek crossing a couple weekends ago. It was nothing I knew the machine couldn't handle, but the front of the skid plate, right where it meets the center plastic front piece, got caught on some debris and it sheared the front skid plate bolt clean off and bent the plastic skid plate up front to where it now hangs down several inches. The rest of the bolt is stuck in the hole, and I don't think I'll have any other option for getting it out other than drilling it out and trying to re-install a larger-diameter replacement bolt.

So, I agree with all of you that the skid plate design could definitely be improved. That said, I'd be willing to bet there are owners of plenty of other makes/models who have experienced skid plate damage too...

[airshot]

There is no perfect solution, skid plates trap mud, went down south last fall and had 3" of mud stacked  inside frame on top of skid plates. Was so heavy it broke the bolts off. Added enormous amount of weight and forced mud into linkage. Friend has an atv with rails rather than skid plates. Mud falls right thru but sticks get up there and cause other problems. No one solution for all riding conditions.

[Mountainman]

There is a cheap way of fixing your problems with plastic skid plates. I don't know if it will work for the regions you all live in but it works great here in southern West Virginia. It took a couple of time to get what I was shooting for but I believe it is going to be worth it. The first thing you'll need to get is some signs, like the one on the highways or men working signs something of that type. You can usually get them at a junkyard or an auction or just grab a few as you go down the road, just joking. Once you find some take you plastic ones off and lay them over the aluminum signs and mark your holes and drill them, this includes all your drain holes and mounting holes. You have three main frame plates and two side plates and the first time I did it I used the old plastic plates to mark the outline of the plates to get them to match like the old ones, but I found out that you leave quite a bit uncovered so I just put the plates up one at a time and put a couple of screws in to hold it in place and mark it with a marker  at the edge of the frame, you need to start at the back and work forward because you need to let the plates overlap around 4 inches. Do not let them butt together end to end, bad mistake as I found out the hard way, a well place stick or rock will find it's way in between them. put the back one on then put the middle one on and let it overlap the back one and so forth on the front one let it overlap the middle one. Your two side plates will bump up against the main frame on the inside edge and cut the outside to fit the outside rail. Only three screws can be used on the inside edge and this is why I double plate it, better safe than sorry this is where your fuel tank is. I use the same bolt holes but I use a self-tapping screw with a metal and rubber washer on it, does not vibrate lose this way. Okay, you now have a sturdy and durable aluminum skid plate that is better than the ones you pay six to eight hundred dollars for. All for under fifty to sixty bucks, I went a little further on mine and added two pieces of 1/2 inch black steel gasline pipe to each side of the main frame, this will give you enough to skid you across a log or hump of dirt if you bottom out on it. You are using the same holes that were there to start with. If you are going to use these you need to leave the screws out of the skid plate on the main frame until you are put the steel pipe on. To do this use a step-down bit to drill the holes so that the screw head will be on the inside of the pipe, make sure you slope both ends of the pipe and for a little more durability I used spray foam inside the pipes to keep water and mud out of the pipes. When it comes time to clean, take your seat out, your hood off, and raise your bed and you should have no problem spraying the mud out.

[airshot]

I like your skid plate and runner idea, however and speaking from experience, washing the mud out is a real challange that I have not been able to accomplish. Normal sand and dirt is not a problem, but when it comes to serious mud, I can only get it removed by dropping the skid plates. I may have found some really sticky mud, but it does not wash out! I have to scrape it out. As I have said, there are advantages to different types of underside protection depending on what you are riding in. Recently I have been riding in Michigan where there is lots of sand...much easier to wash out after a days ride!