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Ah, now I see a bit clearer. Firstly we are talking about an ATV - I must have missed that, and secondly these ATVs obviously do have a totally different breather system than scooters do. Sounds somewhat strange to me, but anyway. I have never seen an ATV in a close up.
Maybe because they are more often ridden and submerged in mud and water and sludge they have this special breathing systems.

Well then, sorry for my statements. Good luck with your analysis and repairs. 

It for sure comes either from engine- or tranny shaft. So it´s either dirty Motor- or clean Gearoil. And it´s expectable and quiet normal after nine year of not using/riding it.
1500miles is literally nothing in nine years. Expect other plastic- and rubber parts also to be worn out or maybe at the end of it´s lifespan.
Seals wear not only by not being lubed with regulary usage but also by aging with the years. Also depends on the quality of the seals of course.

And if I were you I would change both shaft seals at the same time not only the actually leaking one...  Good investment into the future.

Hey folks,
here is an advise from a respected Kymco dealer and senior mechanic in Germany who regularily is in contact with Kymco:

He recommends -seriously! - after sanding and cleaning the clutch pads and bell inside, to spray the pads with WD40 Oil. Let it soak in a few minutes and then wipe off the excess oil with a peace of paper towel or similar, so that the pads themselves arent "slippery oily wet" anymore. Do NOT degrease or clean it afterwards! Also give the inside of bell a short thin wipe with these used oily papertowel.
Then reasemble the whole clutch bell belt parts in the right and correct manner.

With this method your clutch judder problems should be solved longterm and you should have a buttery smooth operating clutch.

I know that this method may sound wierd a bit for many of us, yes it does, but this mechanic and several people in the german Kymco forum have used this method and have confirmed, that this method does the trick.

I myself haven´t tested it yet and lived with the judder for almost 20.000km now. My judder issue varies depending on temperature. To cold isnt good and too hot isnt good.

I have planned to replace my whole drivetrain wear parts next year at roundabout 22.000km. Then I will either use a better  aftermarket clutch or I will also use the trick with WD40 decribed above.

So, who is willing try it and report in the US?
Stig? Long boring winter days and nights are ahead of us all and your Like for sure estimates some cosy treatment from you. 

If I were you, I wouldn´t give this starter issue (which isn´t really an issue by the way) too much attention.
My Like 200i has and always had the same "issue" for 4 years now since new. I also changed the battery but the "issue" remained.
I guess the reason for it is that the starter motor is a bit too weak for the engine in some cases when the piston is in compression stroke to start and turn over. At least at the second attempt the scooter always starts immediately.
See it positively that your engine (piston/cylinder) has a good, strong and healthy compression ratio.
By the way, the much more expensive Vespa scooters do have similar issues with starter motors. An observation I repeatedly made on my brothers Vespa GTS 300.

The TPS could be resetted also for a first attempt. Therefore the pink wire in the battery compartment needs to be put against ground (green) for a few seconds while ignition key is on.
Repositioning of the TPS afterwards is done by just 3 cycles key on and off for each a few seconds (I guess 3 or 5 seconds after each turn).
There is also a blinking code reset procedure available, but it´s more tricky to achieve propperly. I guess an instruction is already available here in the forum.

And as a general hint: Do not manually try to set the TPS unit by turning any skrews there!!! You will ruin it. It´s all factory preset and every possible adjustment needed afterwards can only be done electronically by the diagnostic tool from kymco!!!

Depending of which weights/rolls you are using there might be also a little issue in the drivetrain. If you are using the specially designed sliding rolls from Dr. Pulley you or your mechanic should have made sure that the variomatic plate edges were filed/polished down a bit. Otherwise the sharp edges could make the sliding rolls flip over and at least wear more rapidly and cause troubles also. If you want to know more about this, go to the Dr. Pulley website and read the blog there.

And your gas tank ventilation issues also have been discussed here many times already I guess - as far as I can remember.
The whole gas tank ventilation system is more complicated in the US than everywhere else on this planet.

And Stig for example is a very active and experienced member and administrator in this forum for the Like 200i. He has written many excellent point by point service guides with pictures - almost essays.  He knows a lot, if not almost everything. 
Just try to read a bit in this forum - you will find tons of good and helpful stuff here.

@Karl
Why blocked?
Both links have almost a million or even more than a million views in 4 days already...
I can open them without a problem.

How about a 60ml-100ml syringe with hose?
That´s the tool most of us use for this job. 

@Viper
Yes, Kevlar belt is always a good choice. For much better heat resistance and durability.

Manufacturing date is clearly stamped somewhere on the label/sticker of the OEM belt-bag.
No real need for talking about appearances...

If it´s indeed 2009 then I would say it´s a "bit" (too) old. It´s a rubber product and does wear only with time also.
That´s why I recommended to ask the dealer via E-Mail before buying it.

Personally I wouldn´t want to buy a new belt older than 3 years.

But I am also aware of the "rubber dealers" methods: first in, first out..... 

Why? Well, maybe because it has a way better seat and a better suspension for smoother rides, better smooth and silent 4 valve engine, LED Lights all around, Fueltank underneath the floorboard with better and lower center of gravity, easy access to fuel filler cap, battery underneath the seat for better access, ABS on front and rear wheel, better digital Display with more functions available, better overall design/style (more Vespa like),....

But there are a few minor downsides on the new model as well imho:
Thinner front tire (only 110 instead of 120) - which looks a bit girly like, Iwould change it soon to a 120
Smaller engine size (150cc instead of 163cc) - but maybe these 13cc dont make much of a difference
Low position of fuel filler cap on floorboard - might cause some spilling out of the pipe while filling, one might need to get used to it and exercise a bit
Heavier in general than the old model - if this matters depends on where you preferably need or want to ride, but it also shouldn´t bother too much
The design of the exhaust pipe is a catastrophy - very unsexy and unmanly but very girly like
Parts more expensive if needed (LED lights, ABS parts, Display etc.)

If I had to, I would invest my money in the new model at this time. Except I could get the 200i very cheap.